I just took her out on a 5 miles stretch, and suspension wise it's feels like my 2011 Land Cruiser felt with the stock suspension. I'm going to take her on the highway in a bit, so I'll report back.
Disabling the AHC and AVS systems, no warning lights. (19 Viewers)
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I don't think I did, but I can go back in there and take a second look. Would the wheel speed sensors getting disconnected trip the CDL light and cause it to show an error?
bloc
SILVER Star
Should show various errors including CDL but also ABS, VSC, and others.
My CDL is blinking, and my VSC & ABS indicators are showing as well, but not blinking. I just ran a fault test on my OBD II via the Torque app and it says no fault codes are stored in the ECU.
Is there another way I can troubleshoot to find out what the issue is?
Even with these icons on the dash, the car is driving like normal.
Something I noticed yesterday, is that when I put the car in neutral and shifted to 4Lo, the car went into 4Lo no problem.
When I went to shift back to 4Hi, the car stayed in 4Lo. I put the car in park and shut the engine off for about a minute. When I restarted the car, it was still in 4Lo, but then 4Lo started blinking, and the buzzer came on, and when the buzzer turned off, it came out of 4Lo, and went back into 4Hi. I tried shifting between 4Hi & 4Lo again and it shifted smoothly.
Is it possible I need to drive in 4Lo for a couple of miles to see if I can get the gears in sync?
bloc
SILVER Star
You are probably just dealing with the common issue with the electrical contacts within the CDL/4Lo actuator. See teckis thread about it.. it does seem periods of battery disconnection are somehow correlated with problems, as to why this came up when it did.
Also yes a bluetooth reader and torque app may not get to some of the codes stored. Which adapter module are you using? I know the carista app has displayed SRS codes for me but I haven't tried it for ABS/VSC, that's a different computer that it may not have access to. OBDFusion may get it, or finding someone with techstream.
Here is the app & OBD II that I am using. Is there a techstream app, or download that can be used thru the reader I have?
I'll checkout teckis's thread as well.
You mentioned battery disconnection as possibly causing this issue. I had not disconnected the battery when I first noticed the dash indicators. After I installed the front strut's and pulled the car out of the garage and pulled it back in to work on the rear shocks, is when I first noticed this.
I also had an issue with my passenger side spindle not wanting to line up with the upper control arm, which involved me having to manipulate my pass side rotor/ hub, with a pry bar in order to get the spindle lined back up and connected with the upper control arm. Even with having to do that, I'm not hearing any clicking, or other noises coming from the front pass side tire. Like I mentioned, the car is driving normal.
Overall , am I still good to drive it, if I want to take her out on some dirt roads and put her in 4Lo for awhile to see if that clears things up?
bloc
SILVER Star
Techstream is the official Toyota PC diagnostic software, for which you can buy cabled adapters and cracked registry keys on ebay. Avoid miniVCI adapter kits with TS, they aren’t full feature. The VCX nano adapter seems to be the one to pick at this point.
AFAIK torque is a good app but I haven’t used it. Clearly it won’t pull ABS codes, I think OBDFusion does but it’s worth researching before paying for it, and whether your Bluetooth adapter is actually what’s limiting the ability to see ABS modules. I personally use the Carista adapter and it has been great so far.. but I still prefer techstream if I’m not on a roadtrip, and even then I still bring it sometimes.
When you say spindle.. you mean the steel part that connects the upper and lower control arms and the hub is mounted to? The knuckle maybe? Is there any chance the thick black wire that goes up and onto the UCA got stressed when you had this alignment issue? That’s for the ABS sensor on that knuckle and a problem there would definitely trigger ABS codes.
Yes the knuckle sorry. Notice how it is resting in the picture. It flopped out into that position after I removed if from the UCA, and it wouldn't go back into position until I rotated the rotor bringing the knuckle closer to the UCA.
As far as the black wires go. I will run the car ona few dirt roads in 4Lo and see if that might do something. If it doesn't, I will get into the front wheels wells and inspect the ABS wheel speed sensors and the wires. If I do need to replace these, how much are the parts, and on a banana level how hard is the job?
bloc
SILVER Star
I’d avoid driving your vehicle until you verify the inner CV is assembled correctly.
Most likely the reason it wouldn’t go back until you rotated things is your inner CV came out of socket. It is possible that when it went back in it didn’t do so correctly, and you absolutely do not want to drive it this way.
That shouldn’t still cause the ABS/VSC issue though.. I’m wondering if the wires are ok. You really need to read the codes.
Edit: I just verified the Carista app and adapter can check the ABS computer for codes. Maybe see if their app works with your module, and if not just order one of theirs.
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UPDATE: My dash is now all cleared. Went to AutoZone this morning, and they were able to scan for an ABS code.
-C1405 & C1445 popped up.
Swung by the dealership to grab the ABS sensor wire I ordered. When I got home and got the wheel off, and found the ABS wheel speed sensor was my problem. It didn't help that the sensor pretty much broke flush with the hub. I ended up having to drill thru the sensor, and pull some out with a screw, and pick the rest out with a dental pick. Luckily, the local O'Reilly 's had a sensor in stock. I soon as I started up the car, the blinking diff light & ABS light disappeared. A few feet later the VSC light disappeared as well
-C1405 & C1445 popped up.
Swung by the dealership to grab the ABS sensor wire I ordered. When I got home and got the wheel off, and found the ABS wheel speed sensor was my problem. It didn't help that the sensor pretty much broke flush with the hub. I ended up having to drill thru the sensor, and pull some out with a screw, and pick the rest out with a dental pick. Luckily, the local O'Reilly 's had a sensor in stock. I soon as I started up the car, the blinking diff light & ABS light disappeared. A few feet later the VSC light disappeared as well
My guy you should really remediate that surface rust. Not dealing with it just took out your AHC. That scale will flake off with a knotted wire wheel and then treat with your favorite seasonal rust preventative and top coat.
Yeah, I did an underneath inspection and tapped the frame before I purchased. I knew there was surface rust and what needed done frame wise when I purchased the LX.
There are a couple of guy's local to me, who sand blast / dry ice frames, then repaint them. I plan to get that done late this coming summer/early fall.
In my defense, this issue had already started before I purchased the rig this past September. I was finally got around to getting all of the service records from Lexus. Looking at everything told me that the PO's pretty much got oil changes, and when something happened, or something needed repaired, they sold the vehicle.
The owner before me, was in the Lexus dealership numerous times over the course of 3 months complaining about the AHC system, and Lexus told him nothing is wrong with it and sent him along his way until the AHC became an even more issue.
Lexus then told him the entire system needed replaced, and he declinded service. I don't know how all other Lexus dealership'ss are, but I have had a service advisor in the past tell me, they do not like working on the AHC system because in their eyes, it's trash...but to each their own.
I was able to get some suspension to keep me happy until I can upgrade, so it's "Saul Goodman."
If I would have know I could access all of the service records from Lexus before I bought this LX, would I have walked on by? Absolutely, because my motto is "I love the AHC suspension...until it quits working." but that's in the past. All I can do, is move forward. I've owned and learned how tworkann on an 80, another 200 series L.C, and I currently own a LX470. Luckily I can wrench, so I can do the work that was possibly draining the PO's pockets. Now that this hurdle is hopped, I can tackle the list of PM work I have lined up for the 125,000 mile mark...knocks on wood lol.
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In terms of PM with that level of surface rust I’d also check your sway bar bushings, end links, stock skid plates, alignment tabs.
My truck is a Canadian spec LX and had similar levels as yours and those areas all had varying levels of corrosion. The sway bar end links especially since they hang so low in the front wheel well.
Just as an update, I've finally managed to clean up the AHC error on the 2016 LX570 with King shocks. a few things I found out:
1. the headlights in 2016 use full canbus for managing the beam leveling and receiving input from the steering wheel stalk (save for the turn signal).
2. the Headlights ECU needs to "see" the AHC ECU and receive input from the AHC height sensor to be able to determine the auto beam leveling.
3. removing the AHC ECU will trigger a "fixed" error light on the cluster for the headlight leveling ECU and unless the AHC ECU is connected for the headlights to see the sensor the error light will persist. if the AHC ECU is installed, the headlight error light will be gone but the AHC error light will appear.
4. the only way to remove the error light is to have a can-bus emulator emulating the AHC ECU signal to the cluster and Headlights ECU (informing that the AHC ECU is present and sending the height sensor data).
Andrew Todd from AGT Engineering has developed the Canbus emulator for the 2016 up LX570 AHC that can send signal to the headlights ECU making it happy in the absence of the factory AHC ECU. The device is small and easy to install, you just need to connect it to the canbus wire from the AHC (2 cables for can hi and can lo) and also + and - wire (can also be taken from the AHC ecu wire).
so far very happy and no more errors on the dash.
Cheers,
Bonie
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Having a cambia box to defeat the auto height adjustments based on speed would be handy.
There is actually a box from Japan that may be able to address this issue. So box allows you to fine tune the ride height in a far more detailed manner than that AHC switch can. It can give you up to +70mm of lift and -40mm of lowering.
This is the control unit
Data System Air SUS Active Suspension Control Kit - ASR681II - RHDJapan - https://www.rhdjapan.com/data-system-air-sus-active-suspension-control-kit-asr681ii.html
This is the wiring
Data System Air SUS Active Suspension Control Kit Harness - LX570 URJ201W Land Cruiser URJ202W Kouki - RHDJapan
Data System Air SUS Active Suspension Control Kit Harness - LX570 URJ201W Land Cruiser URJ202W Kouki. Buy direct with global shipping to your door from Osaka, Japan. We speak English and all email queries are responded to promptly!
www.rhdjapan.com
The way it works is that it taps into the AHC sensor wires going to the AHC ECU via the adapter harness and modified the signal going in and out of it.
I have bought this one for my dad 2018 LX570 but didn't have the chance to install and test it.
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