Disabling the AHC and AVS systems, no warning lights. (5 Viewers)

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Stock travel is about 9-10" with the kings 11-12"

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Man, the rear shocks suck to remove. To make it easier, drop the spare tire and remove the exhaust pipe from the muffler back.

I needed a 28" breaker bar to get the top nut off of the driver side rear shock.

I just need to install one rear shock, chop off the running boards and get an alignment and this should be road worthy.

I have some 2" longer brake lines and a dobinsons diff drop on order.
 
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This is all very, very exciting.
 
@turbo8, can you create a list of what all is needed in regards to parts in order to complete this? Maybe the mods can create a sticky with a write-up of what needs to be removed and what needs to bought and modified in order to make it all work?

I thank you for your willingness to pursue this, I hope that it is the final solution for this transformation. We will be hanging on to our LX beyond the warranty if this all works out.
 
@turbo8, can you create a list of what all is needed in regards to parts in order to complete this? Maybe the mods can create a sticky with a write-up of what needs to be removed and what needs to bought and modified in order to make it all work?

I thank you for your willingness to pursue this, I hope that it is the final solution for this transformation. We will be hanging on to our LX beyond the warranty if this all works out.

You really just need springs and shocks.
 
You really just need springs and shocks.

For what? A LC or a Tundra? I'll have to do some research and see which fuses are where and what not. That might be good to note for us.
 
For what? A LC or a Tundra? I'll have to do some research and see which fuses are where and what not. That might be good to note for us.

Tundra parts are not necessary, LC parts will be direct replacement.

I'm using front components from a Tundra because they are wider than LC/LX parts.
 
The LX suspension system is really good, I would not recommend replacing it with a cheap lift system.
 
I wouldn't do less than TC UCA's and King's, I like the AHC system but when you do the fixed AHC High mod you lose travel and I'd like the option of deleting it to run something adjustable. I had planned to unload the LX in favor of a LC in a few years for this very reason.
 
Took it for a test drive tonight! I need to cut out the remaining hardlines and other components as they are rattling.

No warning lights😊
 
So just to help me put this into perspective. By pulling a few fuses and disconnecting the battery allows the computer to relearn itself without the AHC stuff. Which in turn allows one to replace the AHC stuff with a LC suspension kit without any annoying warning lights displayed.

So essentially turning an LX into a LC.
 
So just to help me put this into perspective. By pulling a few fuses and disconnecting the battery allows the computer to relearn itself without the AHC stuff. Which in turn allows one to replace the AHC stuff with a LC suspension kit without any annoying warning lights displayed.

So essentially turning an LX into a LC.
Yep. Just pull a few fuses and you got a Lexus LC 👌😀 can’t get better than this.
 
One last question that just popped into my head. With all the AHC stuff deleted you should be able to run LC (Slee) sliders, right?

If not, the LX sliders are available now.
 
There are a lot of bolt holes on the LX frame with all the ahc stuff gone. Are these holes on the LC frame?
 
Yep. Just pull a few fuses and you got a Lexus LC 👌😀 can’t get better than this.

Not exactly. You don’t get KDSS like the land cruiser.
 

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