I look forward to the write up. I'm very tempted to just do this myself. All the shops I have talked to are getting squirmy when I start describing customer main shafts and GM NV4500 to Dodge.
Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap
- Thread starter Dirty Koala
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Dirty Koala
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- #342
I mounted the accessory bracket only to realize that I needed to remove it because I still need the OEM lifting point to get the engine back in the cruiser. When I put the bracket back on I will take pics and pay attention to the bolts. I will check my hardware tonight, but I have a feeling the bolts I have are stainless.
Honestly it's a pretty simple job as long as you pay attention as you go and take lots of reference pictures of each step. I also like knowing exactly how much end play are on the two shafts. With a shop doing the rebuild this is an area that would be easy to take a shortcut and just throw the original shims back on without fine tuning to get the best results. If you decide to do the rebuild yourself, standard gear is where I got my parts and oil...I think it was about $300 for everything.
Dirty Koala
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- #343
I figured while I have an empty engine bay, now would be a good time to remove the ABS and replace the LSPV with a manual proportioning valve.
Only parts that I needed was a wilwood proportioning valve, two inverted flare nuts and a M10x1.0 inverted flare union, everything else was reused fittings and lines.
I started by disconnecting all the lines on the ABS unit and pulled it out, giving more room to work.
I then removed two of the three lines going into the T fitting under the brake master. I cut off the fittings that I just removed as they will be re-used in this T fitting.
I left the short line that runs from the master cylinder front brake outlet to the T in place.
I then re-routed the front passenger brake line that runs across the top of the firewall from the passenger front wheel to the ABS unit so that the end which was previously in the ABS unit is now running to the T under the master. I cut the line to length and re-flared using one of the fittings previously removed.
The line that runs to the LSPV from the 90 degree elbow (mounted to the frame under the T) is not needed anymore, so I removed it, again keeping the fittings.
I then removed the front drivers line that runs from frame rail (just in front of drivers engine mount) to the elbow on frame up near the radiator, and the line from that same elbow that goes back to the ABS pump. I found there was no need for so much brake line, and that a more direct route could be accomplished. Instead I ran a short line from the frame rail (in front of engine mount) to the 90 degree elbow under the T (under the master), and then a line from the elbow to the T (under the master).
I then removed the igniter from the drivers fender as I won't be needing it, and bolted the proportioning valve to the igniter bracket. This places the proportioning valve close to the master and easily accessible from the side of the truck.
I ran a line from the master cylinder to the input side of the proportioning valve, and then re-routed the rear brake line previously in the ABS pump to the outlet side of the valve. I re-flared both of these lines using 2 new M10x1.0 inverted nuts to joint to the valve.
I still need to remove the LSPV, reconnect the 2 remaining lines that I remove from the LSPV with a union, and bleed the system.
As other have said @jcardona1 "There is now so much more room for activities!"
Only parts that I needed was a wilwood proportioning valve, two inverted flare nuts and a M10x1.0 inverted flare union, everything else was reused fittings and lines.
I started by disconnecting all the lines on the ABS unit and pulled it out, giving more room to work.
I then removed two of the three lines going into the T fitting under the brake master. I cut off the fittings that I just removed as they will be re-used in this T fitting.
I left the short line that runs from the master cylinder front brake outlet to the T in place.
I then re-routed the front passenger brake line that runs across the top of the firewall from the passenger front wheel to the ABS unit so that the end which was previously in the ABS unit is now running to the T under the master. I cut the line to length and re-flared using one of the fittings previously removed.
The line that runs to the LSPV from the 90 degree elbow (mounted to the frame under the T) is not needed anymore, so I removed it, again keeping the fittings.
I then removed the front drivers line that runs from frame rail (just in front of drivers engine mount) to the elbow on frame up near the radiator, and the line from that same elbow that goes back to the ABS pump. I found there was no need for so much brake line, and that a more direct route could be accomplished. Instead I ran a short line from the frame rail (in front of engine mount) to the 90 degree elbow under the T (under the master), and then a line from the elbow to the T (under the master).
I then removed the igniter from the drivers fender as I won't be needing it, and bolted the proportioning valve to the igniter bracket. This places the proportioning valve close to the master and easily accessible from the side of the truck.
I ran a line from the master cylinder to the input side of the proportioning valve, and then re-routed the rear brake line previously in the ABS pump to the outlet side of the valve. I re-flared both of these lines using 2 new M10x1.0 inverted nuts to joint to the valve.
I still need to remove the LSPV, reconnect the 2 remaining lines that I remove from the LSPV with a union, and bleed the system.
As other have said @jcardona1 "There is now so much more room for activities!"
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Dirty Koala
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- #344
I drilled out the front cross member and welded the intercooler pass through tubes in.
Dirty Koala
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- #345
Time to assemble the clutch pedal.
I got most of it together, but was a bit of a challenge since I was missing 4 small pieces.
Missing clip to retain clutch pedal spring.
Missing clip to retain master push rod pin.
Missing spacer and clip for center over plate.
I got most of it together, but was a bit of a challenge since I was missing 4 small pieces.
Missing clip to retain clutch pedal spring.
Missing clip to retain master push rod pin.
Missing spacer and clip for center over plate.
I'll trade you thoes missing bits for the manual brake pedal that as of the day before I ordered my stuff was delisted by Toyota.....
Dirty Koala
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- #347
Dude! That blows. I ordered these parts up a year ago from Dave Stedman at Japan4x4, sure glad I did. Hopefully these little pieces that I need are still available. The clips I can manage myself, but that one little spacer is pretty unique.I'll trade you thoes missing bits for the manual brake pedal that as of the day before I ordered my stuff was delisted by Toyota.....
Yeah I ordered mine in Jan of this year. Wish I had ordered in Nov when I priced them out but I was trying to stick to budget.....
Dirty Koala
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- #349
Jeremy, are you using the OEM toyota master cylinder? If so, do you know if the line fitting is an M10x1.0 inverted flare? That's what it looks like to me, and that is a common size on these trucks, but having a hard time finding any confirmation.
I'm actually going to use the full Dodge hydrolic setup. Then there will be no issues of miss match bore or anything else. He'll the Dodge stuff comes pre bread too.
I would go to a parts store and get a fitting I'm positive they are the same fittings as the brake parts.
Dirty Koala
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- #351
I grabbed my box of fittings and it is an M10x1.0 Inverted.
I also have a full Dodge hydraulic system that I was planning on only using the slave from, but now that I look at it it doesn't appear to have anyway to bleed it...probably because it came pre-bled. How were you planning to adapt the dodge master to the toyota pedal? It's a very different style.
It's more the master to firewall attachment that is tricky. Just need to make a few plates into an adapter. It's the same as Julio and Lee locally did on there 6bt swaps and it works great.
Dirty Koala
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- #353
I had a busy day of cleaning the engine bay, frame rails and trans tunnel. Managed to go through 3 bottles of simple green and a bag of rags...glad that job is done!
I picked up two slave cylinders, one for a NV3500 in a dakota and one for an NV4500. They share the same mounting surface. The difference is the bore of the NV3500 is 11/16" where the NV4500 is 1". Since the 80 series clutch master has a 3/4" bore pairing with the NV3500 slave will result in enough throw to fully engage the pressure plate. If I were to use the NV4500 slave, I would not get enough throw.
The slaves I bought both have bleed screws, which is unusual for Dodge hydraulics, but welcome.
I removed the standard roll pin fitting and replaced with a russel roll pin to -3AN adapter, from that fitting I will run a flexible line to the frame rail, then adapt to a metric inverted flare M10 x 1.0 fitting and run a hard line up to the clutch master.
I picked up two slave cylinders, one for a NV3500 in a dakota and one for an NV4500. They share the same mounting surface. The difference is the bore of the NV3500 is 11/16" where the NV4500 is 1". Since the 80 series clutch master has a 3/4" bore pairing with the NV3500 slave will result in enough throw to fully engage the pressure plate. If I were to use the NV4500 slave, I would not get enough throw.
The slaves I bought both have bleed screws, which is unusual for Dodge hydraulics, but welcome.
I removed the standard roll pin fitting and replaced with a russel roll pin to -3AN adapter, from that fitting I will run a flexible line to the frame rail, then adapt to a metric inverted flare M10 x 1.0 fitting and run a hard line up to the clutch master.
Dirty Koala
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- #354
Most important news! My updated adapter appears to be in transit as of this evening...finally.
So what is the story with the clutch hydrolics? 80series master>nv3500slave>nv4500 slave pin?
Dirty Koala
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- #356
The push rods on the NV4500 and NV3500 slaves are the same diameter but differ in length by 1/2". The NV3500 slave rod is 4", the NV4500 is 4.5". I am going to start out using the NV3500 rod and see how that works. If I have too much free play before engaging the pressure plate I will switch to the NV4500 rod.
The setup will be 80 master - Hard line down along frame - soft line from frame to NV3500 slave.
Depending on how much of the available stroke is used in the master, I may need to extend the master push rod like on @Mr Cimarron setup.
The setup will be 80 master - Hard line down along frame - soft line from frame to NV3500 slave.
Depending on how much of the available stroke is used in the master, I may need to extend the master push rod like on @Mr Cimarron setup.
Dirty Koala
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- #357
I was getting frustrated with how much space is being taken up in my garage with a pile of 37" tires and a pile of boxes of wheels, so time to combine into one pile.
I had previously media blasted my tundra wheels, so today they got cleaned with MEK, then 3 coats of etching primer, 4 coats of color and 3 coats of matte clear. I used Duplicolor graphite and am really happy with how they turned out. Will get them mounted on Monday.
I had previously media blasted my tundra wheels, so today they got cleaned with MEK, then 3 coats of etching primer, 4 coats of color and 3 coats of matte clear. I used Duplicolor graphite and am really happy with how they turned out. Will get them mounted on Monday.
Thoes look great!! I really need to spend some time on my wheels and clean and paint them up. Really like that colour too.
What size tire did you go with?
Dirty Koala
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- #359
Thanks, I had been wanting to do this for quite a while and with the swap going on I need every inch of floor space I can get, gave me the motivation to get it done.
I went with the new Cooper STT Pro in a 37 x 12.5 x 17.
So what stage are you at? Is it a race to the finish? ;P
Look forward to your take on the tires when you get it running, millage etc.
Look forward to your take on the tires when you get it running, millage etc.
