where did the add a leaf's come from, I think my packs will need a little help as well, when ever i do my SOA that is. That things gonna be sweet when your done.
Dirtgypsy goes SOA (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Dirtgypsy
- Start date
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I used my milling machine to cut the mating surfaces flat to the same ID of the square tubing and pressed them in, welded up and made a nice groove for the weld on the inside to go through. I also painted it really thick to make up for any slack in between the two pieces. Greased it up and I worked great. The only noise I here is from my rear swaybar pins.
I do not understand the statement, “welded up and made a nice groove for the weld on the inside to go through.” You’re saying that the inner shaft of your receiver hitch type square driveshaft it tightly toleranced because of the milling and this allows less slop giving it higher RPM abilities? What do you mean, “pressed in”? That sounds counter intuitive to a driveshaft that needs to be able to slide.
I welded the joints onto the tubing. The square tubing has weld penetration from being welded together and therefore you have to groove the smaller tubing inorder for it to slide inside the larger tubing. The milling was done to the CV and the front U joint assy so the ends of them fit into the square tubing. The tubing was painted with a lot of paint to make up any slop within the two pieces of square tubing that are sliding together. If you really need to see how to make one, search pirate, they have a good thread in the toyota pickup FAQ.
sorry for the hijack
Wow, that looks great. Thanks for the info. I am very interested and it's worth looking into. I may be pm'ing you with future questions. Sorry Dirtgypsy, I get carried away when I see things that I want to do. End of my hijack as well.
Excellent. Did you regear the diffs to 4.88?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Nice Clint .. just honestly I don't think you really need the AAL .. actually I would keep the SR and pull the AAL part .. just for 35"
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Moving along quick like man!
That thing is gonna be buttoned up by next week, and not much of a thread!
X2 on the re gear?
Have you got your wrap bar planned out? For me, that was the hardest thing on my SOA...I had a BIT*H of a time figuring the best location for the x member. The stock exhaust killed me!
IMO...not to dispute tapage...the AAL's I have in mine are great. 3 years wheeling and the springs are still in great shape.
Im of the opinion its a good move on your part.
Chicago
That thing is gonna be buttoned up by next week, and not much of a thread!
X2 on the re gear?
Have you got your wrap bar planned out? For me, that was the hardest thing on my SOA...I had a BIT*H of a time figuring the best location for the x member. The stock exhaust killed me!
IMO...not to dispute tapage...the AAL's I have in mine are great. 3 years wheeling and the springs are still in great shape.
Im of the opinion its a good move on your part.
Chicago
- Thread starter
- #29
sorry no square driveline. I will use the early style CV and have it lengthened.
that is crazy fast!
thanks man! where are you at with yours??
where did the add a leaf's come from, I think my packs will need a little help as well, when ever i do my SOA that is. That things gonna be sweet when your done.
Man-A- Fre for the AAl's. Just ordered the long ones for front and rear.
yep. 4.88's complete rebuild and ARB's X2.
SR is long gone man! and AAL's are buttoned up in the spring pack!Moving along quick like man!
That thing is gonna be buttoned up by next week, and not much of a thread!
X2 on the re gear?
Have you got your wrap bar planned out? For me, that was the hardest thing on my SOA...I had a BIT*H of a time figuring the best location for the x member. The stock exhaust killed me!
IMO...not to dispute tapage...the AAL's I have in mine are great. 3 years wheeling and the springs are still in great shape.
Im of the opinion its a good move on your part.
Chicago
Wrap bar wil be typical vanilla Ruff stuff set up. I will update.
AALS are there for three reasons:
1. renew beat 30 year old springs
2. added lift for bumpers, sliders, winch, dual batteries and all the other crap I put in here for camping.
3. I have a small tent trailer that we are planning on towing this year.
Sorry I am not much of a picture taker but when you are on a roll working you just run with it:
Lets set the front axle:
Check out the crack in the tube. This is what to look for during the C&T. Lots of force here:
5 degrees of caster:
More grinding for the rear axle:
Hang it:
Set the pinion angle:
End of day two:
Looks like the stock rear driveline will be the ticket. Great angles. So far everything is just tacked into place. Next step is to rebuild second diff and then pull both housings and lay down some welds. I hope to get some more time on it on friday and will update some more then. Thursday will be my clean the tool and garage day.
I am getting some great PM's asking me questions about the SOA. Please feel free to PM and post up. I am in no way an expert and without the gracious help from Mike I would be knee deep in a pile of cut up axles and far from done. With that I am more than happy to share my experience.
Feeling a bit like this:
Clint
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Consider using that DC drivline in the rear and tipping your pinion up. In the front, you almost don't need it even if the angle are off, because you will rarely run it at speed.
Looking good so far!
Looking good so far!
You are moving along faasst man. I would love to take this on someday, but I don't think I have the stones to try. Good luck. Love the silver.
PS You had OME before?
PS You had OME before?
- Thread starter
- #32
Thought about it but changed my mind for a couple of reasons. First the stock rear driveline is the perfect length and the angles are as good as it gets. Second reason is it is easier to fix a non CV driveline if it breaks on the trail. Plus it is less cost to buy a used 85-87 rear line than to rebuild one of these. I like the idea of running a higher pinion angle because of axle wrap but we put in 1 degree and with a beefy trac bar I don't think it will be necessary.
Thanks for the compliment it means a lot.
Clint
- Thread starter
- #33
I am very pleased at how much we accomplished in the last two days. There are so many great threads on SOA stuff it is hard to not be able to use tried and true products and steps to get this done.
Negatory on the OME I had MAF Safari.
Clint
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
X2 .. point your rear pinion to the t-case ..
P.S. I need to start type slow or re check my post prior to send it .. writing horrible ! sorry for all ..
It might be a good idea to set your pinion angles and front caster with the weight of the vehicle on the axles, as things may change when the springs are compressed. Lookin' good tho!
It might be a good idea to set your pinion angles and front caster with the weight of the vehicle on the axles, as things may change when the springs are compressed. Lookin' good tho!
The reason we didn't was that the axles are on the flat part of the springs so when the springs compress there should be negligable rotation in the housing. But, we can check that now to make sure before it's burned in. It'll be just a little more time consuming on a sloped driveway.
Clint, looks like I'll be taking this Friday (3/27) off if you need a hand that day. Let me know cause I want to see that 220V fired up. I'll try getting the regear pics posted here this week.
- Thread starter
- #37
I was thinking about this last night. I figured I would do one end at a time before pulling and doing final welding. Like Mike said with droop set and springs/ pads on the flat it should be negligable.
I will see if I can get that outlet redone to the differnt style 220V. May be short notice but I don't see whay I couldn't get at least 9am till around 1p on the truck friday. My wife wants to park her car in the garage and right now the truck and parts are kind of taking up space!
Clint
My guess would be the reason everybody is advocating for the DC shaft is that with your current setup be prone to the all to common ^^^^vibes^^^^ at certain RPM's........Even on a 'mostly trail rig" you still got to get to the trail. I ran the stock for some time but when the DC went in it was night and day. Besides we have the best drive line guy in the country here in Oregon. Let me know when you want me to come over so you can cut and turn my axle Looking good!
-X2 on setting final angles with everything settled/level surface and connected
Looking good!-X2 on setting final angles with everything settled/level surface and connected
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Damn... you are moving at the speed of light! Keep it up!
- Thread starter
- #40
My guess would be the reason everybody is advocating for the DC shaft is that with your current setup be prone to the all to common ^^^^vibes^^^^ at certain RPM's........Even on a 'mostly trail rig" you still got to get to the trail. I ran the stock for some time but when the DC went in it was night and day. Besides we have the best drive line guy in the country here in Oregon. Let me know when you want me to come over so you can cut and turn my axle
-X2 on setting final angles with everything settled/level surface and connected
I understand the concept of the DC driveline and am not disputing them. However 60's wagons are just that a WAGON. We have lots of realestate to work with drivelines. I have been in 3 SOA 60 wags and only one had a DC rear. Not one had driveline issues.
I will however re-evaluate once it is on the ground. If a call to driveline tech is in order then it is in order. Just hard to swallow $800 to $1000 for what he charges.
As far as a C-N-T on yours .... not sure I want to do this again anytime soon. give me about 6-7 months then ask again.
Clint
