DIRTBIKEUSA’s Alaska Cruiser build thread

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Misty morning, rainy last night and the sunroof seems fixed. I had the back open with a house fan drying out the last of the moisture until late last night before the last rain storm came in.

Some places have gotten 8 or more inches and have flooded into houses in south east Texas. It’s pretty bad down there for them right now.

I have been trying to sort out aftermarket options for live temp sensor and thermostatic fan switch with override. Hard to put things together without have things on hand. At least returns isn’t out of the way.

This is the circuit diagram for the fan and live temp gauge I came up with while sitting at breakfast.

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Been working on and off with the rain. The ground finally dried up enough to get the cruiser closer to the welder. I added a step to the bumper for the tire to rest on that doubles as a step up on the back with the swing out open. I was able to find good strap points to cinch everything down.

Took it out for a short drive over some rougher paved roads not much rattling or squeaking. The tire does rest a bit on the upper tailgate hatch. I will find a way to cover that contact point with something.

Overall I’m happy with it. It didnt cost a lot and it looks and works good.

Next up if roof rack after the mud dries up.

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What is the diameter of the spindle that the spare tire is riding on....looks under sized for the application if I'm being honest. I don't comment much but I would be terrified if I saw that in front of me on I35.
Good, be scared.
 
Good, be scared.
Dude, be real. That spare tire carrier letting loose going down the highway is going to do some damage to whatever it hits. Imagine it going through someone's windshield...

I'm far from a Safety Sally, and appreciate that you're doing this on a budget, but this is a clear call. I do just shy of 2k miles a year on washboard roads getting to/from my house to pavement. I know what fatigue stress does to even the best built swing-out systems on my trucks.

For a solid inexpensive pivot point, get a front hub assembly off of a SFA truck (GM Squarebody with manual hubs for example). Not only is it beefy enough, you have a built-in position lock when you turn the hub dial.
 
I built this for mine. You can have it for the shipping down to you if you want it. Has 4xinnovations latch and bearing pivot on it. Had a 37” and a hi-lift on it. There is enough room for Jerry can mount to be added. Also wired for a license plate light in the center of the spare.

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I’ve welded implements that survived bomb blasts. Although to YOU it looks dangerous, I know EXACTLY what I have built. I did mention in a previous posts, the tire rests on a step when stowed. I thought that was clear. The only time the weight is on the arm is when it is swung out.

Thanks for the heads up and criticisms tho. Appreciate it.
 
Old bed frame roof rack progress. Basically put it together as if it was a twin mattress and then welded it together. It actually didn’t take that much time, it’s super light, flexible, but strong. Now I need some rubber feet to go under the legs. I need to cut a sheet of 3/4 plywood and deck it. Then I need to sort out how it attaches to the roof. I’m looking for some kind of way to attach it to the drip weld. Maybe tomorrow, it’s hot outside in the sun.

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Yesterday I swapped out the fuel pump/filter sock, inspected inside the tank and replaced the fuel pressure regulator.

Today I found a leak oil leak at the distributor. Lucky me I had the correct O-ring size on hand so it was a quick .5 hour job before the rain came in. Hoping that this does it for the leaks for now.

While I was in there I noticed the white wire off battery positive going into the grey connector fusible link had corrosion damage. I tugged on it and it snapped off. I hopped online and ordered a replacement which includes all three behind the battery. This was a good find as I tested it disconnected and confirmed it is need to start.

I have been slowly replacing all fuses and relays on the cruiser (some are not so cheap) so this, today was right in line with my efforts to make it long range road worthy.
 
Not much to update. It’s been raining off and on. My baby daughter’s best friend had her 1 year birthday today. So we were out celebrating. My little baby girl turns 1 next week. :) it’s been a rough start for her, but she’s amazing and just as tough.

This year has been rough all around but, my family and projects bring me great joy.

I did get my upgraded alternator today. So that’s good.

I have some questions about this higher amp alt. They upgraded a freshly rebuilt alt from 80 amps to 180 amps. I asked for 120 not sure why they didn’t listen to want I wanted. Is this bad? 180 seems excessive to me.

At 180 Amps what do I have to upgrade so I don’t burn anything up? I know members have upgraded there battery cables and fuse box cables.

Should I use this alt? Or call them back and have them change it again?

Am I setting myself up with disaster with
180 amps?

Kinda unsure about this.. if any members running this kinda amperage would chime in I would really appreciate it.

About the set up:

I will be running led fogs -60w, led rear light pods and led light bar- 130w , I have a small inverter -1000w. And a 9500lb rated winch-5hp. Other electrical accessories may be added later as needed.

Of course not all of these accessories will be operating at the same time.

I know some basic electrical theory (amps x volts =watts) 180x12=2184w or 2.7 electrical hp. Running two batteries I can put out about 1600 CCA. I know I have more than enough power to operate the winch at 5hp with this set up. Just need a biting input. Thanks!
 
Don't get caught up in various units such as cold cranking amps, electrical horsepower, watts, etc..

The key thing to focus on in this situation is amperage. The upgraded alternator is able to put out 180 amps, so you want to run your wiring size calculations based on that as a worst case.

I bet a 2/0 wire would be plenty.
 
Don't get caught up in various units such as cold cranking amps, electrical horsepower, watts, etc..

The key thing to focus on in this situation is amperage. The upgraded alternator is able to put out 180 amps, so you want to run your wiring size calculations based on that as a worst case.

I bet a 2/0 wire would be plenty.
Cool man, thank you.
 
I remember there is a white charge wire that either comes off the alternator or goes into the fuse box on the passenger fender that can burn out. I’m posting this cause I’d like to learn a little bit more about that and how to make it beefier. Always a good idea to keep a EFI relay and fusible link set with you, especially on that kind of trip.
 
I want to drive to Alaska some day, sounds like an epic trip. Dead horse is on my bucket list, maybe try for Nome as well.
No roads to Nome. One must fly in, or...
I remember reading about some guy who biked the frozen Yukon River in winter from Dawson city to Nome back in the gold rush days. That’s an impressive feat.
For Deadhorse, if you want to see Arctic Ocean it’s necessary to book a tour in advance because road goes through oil field infrastructure.
 
I remember there is a white charge wire that either comes off the alternator or goes into the fuse box on the passenger fender that can burn out. I’m posting this cause I’d like to learn a little bit more about that and how to make it beefier. Always a good idea to keep a EFI relay and fusible link set with you, especially on that kind of trip.
I will post up what I do and pics. Thanks!
 
No roads to Nome. One must fly in, or...
I remember reading about some guy who biked the frozen Yukon River in winter from Dawson city to Nome back in the gold rush days. That’s an impressive feat.
For Deadhorse, if you want to see Arctic Ocean it’s necessary to book a tour in advance because road goes through oil field infrastructure.
Biked? That’s nuts!

I know that some towns have no roads to them or at least are not accessible by 4x4 except in summer.
 
So to actually drive north to dead horse or prudhoe bay a person needs permission or a permit??
No roads to Nome. One must fly in, or...
I remember reading about some guy who biked the frozen Yukon River in winter from Dawson city to Nome back in the gold rush days. That’s an impressive feat.
For Deadhorse, if you want to see Arctic Ocean it’s necessary to book a tour in advance because road goes through oil field infrastructure.
 
So to actually drive north to dead horse or prudhoe bay a person needs permission or a permit??
You can drive there with no permission, just can't gain access to Arctic Ocean without it.

Yeah, getting around in winter when wetlands and rivers are frozen is actually easier than in summer for much of the state. Provided you can handle the frigid temps, that is. I can't, so it's a good thing my location is in the relatively warm SE panhandle.
 

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