I have been debating whether to repaint my original faded white paint complete with, I imagine dealer installed pinstripe. I have a couple of few rust spots that are superficial from tx.
The delima is real lol
Build DINGO- 60FZJ-UTE LS3 EROD (PROVEN CA SMOG)
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The delima is real lol
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A few of the electrical parts are arriving.
@3_puppies was a great resource once again for a couple of much needed parts. Thanks P
J
@3_puppies was a great resource once again for a couple of much needed parts. Thanks P
J
Post up details on your dual battery setup...when you get there. I've been looking at options on the electrical side setup for some time and soon I'll be able to deal with that myself. Already have the physical mounts and batteries. What are the two metal parts on the left of the picture above (they look like they are metal in the picture to me)? I know there are many options out there and i'm just looking to see what others have done (on parts and wiring / routing).
This why why I am damn glad I learned how to do body work properly.
Paint I can do if I had a booth.
I used that T-Max system.
Only suggestion would be beefing up the primary wires. Other than that it is actually a decent system and great for the price. I installed these into an fjcruiser, LR3 and now my 60.
The fuse panel I custom built my relay and auto circuit breakers. Worked perfectly and never let me down.
I used a blue sea panel for the accessories and cut the busbar. One side constant 12, one side switched.
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I've run 5 of the T Max systems without fail. I agree I only run 1/0-2/0 cables (even body grounds) when I do these. I'll be making my own front aux. fuse panel similar to my new 100 panel using a BlueSea 5032 split for the front of the UTE along with 2 or 3 Switch Pro 8 panel controllers to run most aux. items.
J
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Those are rear door window sash channels (holds glass and attaches to regulators). I had one rusted really bad and one missing on my doors. Had to find good used ones from @3_puppies .
J
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Pulled my old plush marine/nylon hybrid blend carpet kit out of storage. Feels like a regular plush car carpet, but the fibers are marine grade. This kit was originally going in Goss and then went full red with him. Then ordered a black vinyl kit for DINGO and decided I want carpet...
More pics during install later.
DECISIONS NEVER END!
J
More pics during install later.
DECISIONS NEVER END!
J
I waited a year for a 45 bed...just the bed. I've got another 40 in a new shop now. It took 6 months to get the tub back and we patched all
the holes and fixed the rust. The body shop had only minor skinning of bondo. The other body parts will take at least three months.. I've painted before so I'm looking at one of these. Customers don't like hearing that a build takes an extra year if they want bodywork and paint
Inflatable Giant Spray Paint Booth Car Workstation Tent 6*3*2.5M Waterproof 19FT 865472540634 | eBay
19.7x9.8x8.2Ft Inflatable Spray Booth Custom Tent. Style: Inflatable spray paint booth tent. This is a portable moving inflatable spray booth, suitable for any full size car, truck or SUV. 1 X Inflatable Tent.
www.ebay.com
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I waited a year for a 45 bed...just the bed. I've got another 40 in a new shop now. It took 6 months to get the tub back and we patched all
the holes and fixed the rust. The body shop had only minor skinning of bondo. The other body parts will take at least three months.. I've painted before so I'm looking at one of these. Customers don't like hearing that a build takes an extra year if they want bodywork and paint
.Inflatable Giant Spray Paint Booth Car Workstation Tent 6*3*2.5M Waterproof 19FT 865472540634 | eBay
19.7x9.8x8.2Ft Inflatable Spray Booth Custom Tent. Style: Inflatable spray paint booth tent. This is a portable moving inflatable spray booth, suitable for any full size car, truck or SUV. 1 X Inflatable Tent.www.ebay.com
Knowing my luck the damn power would go out on my final coat and it would deflate on top of wet paint..... just saying.
That could happen five times and it'd still get done before the paint shop. I've used five shops in the last 8 years.
None have gotten a second truck from me. I usually try to convince the customer to get their paint done at the shop
of their choice. I've powder coated three 40s. That is an in and out deal
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Must have been some seriously straight bodies and no filler added to powder them. Unless you old school leaded them.
I was looking at these myself and your reasoning is why I also passed. I went with a green house, will add shade cloth to it if I use it again. Went the natural light route. You have to paint in the morning before it heats up.
8- 20" fans at floor level blowing out 120" X 20" filters at the top of the shop door on the other end with plastic covering the rest of the door opening. This made a cross flow down draft set up in the booth. Eventually I plan a booth in an addition for the same reasons Dave spoke of above.
A lost art!
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It's actually quite easy IMO. Like icing a cake. I prefer to use the newer 30/70 lead and it's cleaner than the old lead babbit my uncle used to use. They make lead free now but IMO it melts at a lower temp and if much harder (rockwell) when ambient. So harder to work (filing) and harder to get the temp back up if you need to build. Too much heat into the panel.
I have his old wooden paddles and a few gutter rail and tight radius flights (sp). Also about 20#s of old school pre-1970s lead babbit sticks and pieces.
Indeed a lost art.
J
I remember watching a old hotrod builder doing this on TV many many moons ago. I knew then I had to try it.
I tried that lead alternative once (triying to be eco friendly)...hated it I found it was hard to work with compared the the lead based filler.
That is awesome on the vintage tools. So many are better built than just about anything today.
I am no expert for sure, but I managed to fix and fill my rusted roof gutters (split at the seam) on my old Bronco and then various spots on my old Chevelle (windows channels etc). since then I have used this method every chance I can get.
Like you said key is to keep the heat down, but keeping enough to melt the led. It is an art that I am still working on.
People I guess are afraid of it as you need flame and are melting metal, but once you get the hang of it, it is rather easy and the end result is awesome. Smoothing it down is no more difficult than fiberglass filler or Metal (aluminum type) filler, you need time and patience. The result is once blended in it look to be part of the metal.....just shiny and as strong.
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Also lead doesn't continue to outgas. I spoke with 3M before (at a pipe coatings training seminar) and most standard fillers will continue to outgas even years after they are applied and "cured". I guess the 170F mark is the reactor temp. Basically at 170F and above they claim that their fillers will release gases under the paint and primer. While a limited amount per their remarks, it still happens and if it happens enough the paint will start to fail. So hotter areas see this more than cooler ones and darker more than lighter colors.
I've never kept a car long enough after I did paint and body to know, but never thought about it. IMO, it would have to continually be above a 170F surface temp for this to happen, but IDK.
J
That is some very cool information. Thanks for sharing that!
What's funny is the bondo held up better than the Lab Metal as long as it was 1/16" of less. Over 1/8" the bondo curled up.
We tested Lab Metal on one tub. A year later every spot with lab metal popped loose in chunks. The bondoed cabs are still fine.
One was done ten years ago. I probably won't try lab metal again even though I have friends who use it in the ornamental iron business
and swear by it. Perhaps sheet metal flexes too much
That is interesting. I use to do a skim coat of the stuff and only over my crappy welds just to seal them in. Now I epoxy them and use milled fiberglass filler.
Then a poly fill to make smoother and finally a glazing putty. this is of course on exposed panels. On panels that are covered I am less concerned with smooth.
Bondo will last a long time. I pull what had to be 10-12 year old crap out of my 60. I pulled a fist size piece out.
The problem is that is sucks in moisture if exposed on the back end. Fiberglass is better for this, but still not 100% and none of them should be used to fill a hole. The other issue most people do not prep the metal that this stuff is being applied to correctly and when you start removing it, you can in chunks if it was applied heavy.
Pissed me off when i start a repair and I end up pulling of a entire panel due to poor prep.