We stock the Longfield too but RCV is the best! However stronger doesn't necessarily equate to longevity. If you're not running 35+ tires and wheeling hard, the RCV may not be a great option.
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- Thread starter Niko Jackson
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We stock the Longfield too but RCV is the best! However stronger doesn't necessarily equate to longevity. If you're not running 35+ tires and wheeling hard, the RCV may not be a great option.
- Thread starter
- #62
What would you recommend for moderate trail use on 33s-35s?
Our Japanese replacements, long life in full-time 4wd applications, strong and reasonably priced.
Standard-Duty Replacement Birfield/Axle - Fits 4/1994 - 1/1998 - 8x Series w/ ABS & Long Birfield (FAXT60070JP)
Toyota Land Cruiser Axle Shafts / Birfields
cruiserteq.com
- Thread starter
- #64
Just ordered! Thanks!Our Japanese replacements, long life in full-time 4wd applications, strong and reasonably priced.
Standard-Duty Replacement Birfield/Axle - Fits 4/1994 - 1/1998 - 8x Series w/ ABS & Long Birfield (FAXT60070JP)
Toyota Land Cruiser Axle Shafts / Birfields
- Thread starter
- #67
Hey trying to get my inner axle seals in and I’m having a good bit of trouble. Anybody got any tricks?
I wipe them down with 90w gear oil then use a 1/2” or 3/4” drive socket the same size as the seal or slightly smaller on an extension to tap them in.
- Thread starter
- #69
lol that is exactly what I’m doing right now
Race and seal driver set. Can rent one from free from local parts house. The handle will help you get the tool up inside of the ball.
- Thread starter
- #71
I got the passenger side in I have the driver side in the freezer while I work on this side.
The icon kit from Harbor freight is a nice addition for doing seals and races too. The Maddox one is a lot cheaper but is smaller.
- Thread starter
- #73
Well I got everything back together. I was torquing the diff housing nuts back to spec since I dropped the third out and snapped one of the bottom studs off. Not awesome, just when I was getting everything back together. Thoughts on my next plan of action? Do I take it all apart and replace the stud? (It snapped too low to put an extractor on it) I don’t know how to weld if I wanted to tack a nut on and try to back it out like that. Any advice would be great, thanks!
If the stud wasn't bottomed out in the hole, then it won't have any preload on it. If these are the studs im thinking of, the hole is a thru hole and those studs have a sealant on them making them hard to remove. You might spin it out with a LH drill bit, but I doubt it. Photos of the location where it snapped? Welding a nut on usually works, but you don't want to burn your new gasket. Got any friends with a MIG? You may be either leaving this alone, or tearing it back down. Welcome to wrenching on old stuff.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I gave up on trying to "nicely" remove broken bolts long ago. I use a carbide burr, smaller than the bolt, on my Dremel. Bore out most of it and grab the rest with a pair of needle nose pliers and unwind it. Takes all of five minutes.
Tear it back down. Not that hard.
All the hard work is cleaning the parts.
Get some clean card board and set all the parts on them and cover with paper towels.
Just pull the axles enough to pull the third.
All the hard work is cleaning the parts.
Get some clean card board and set all the parts on them and cover with paper towels.
Just pull the axles enough to pull the third.
- Thread starter
- #77
That’s what I’m thinking. It was the very bottom stud on the housing. I’m assuming for that location it’s worth my time to drop the third again and replace all studs. I know landtank has a high strength stud kit I will probably buy. For context I was using a “performance tool” torque wrench from Napa. After that happened I checked the wrench and the lock for the spec was completely loose after I had set it at 52 foot pounds. So it was partially the tool, partially me for being cheap. I bought a nicer torque wrench right after.
I like and run the LandTank diff hardware kit.
For memory 52 foot pounds in too much for those, I don’t have time to look it up right now but I think it’s 27 FPs
For memory 52 foot pounds in too much for those, I don’t have time to look it up right now but I think it’s 27 FPs
- Thread starter
- #79
Yep you’re right just looked at the FSM it calls for 20 FPs. I mixed it up with the rear which calls for 56 FPs. Feeling pretty stupid right now.
Don’t be to hard on yourself, Sh*t happens we fix it and move forward
I think the land tank hardware takes a bit more.
