- Thread starter
- #41
Yep I pulled the third when I did the knuckles. Ring and pinion look good, might take it to get the backlash checked. The metal was pieces of the bearing cage on the cv that snuck past the inner axle seal.
Differential Help (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Niko Jackson
- Start date
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If material was able to sneak past your inner axle seal, I'd carefully inspect the inner axle seal surface as well. They wear from the rubber lip over time, any metal material will super accelerate that wear.
Kurt has a good tip. The seal can account for some grooving. If you deem the wear excessive you can ez sleeve the shaft or leave the seal proud in some cases so the seal sees a new sealing surface on the shaft.
You must have driven it a while broken.
You mean I didn't have to model and 3d print my own?
Also, very nice of you to lend your rear to that gay
- Thread starter
- #46
On to flatbed-off flatbed.
No you didn’tYou mean I didn't have to model and 3d print my own?
Also, very nice of you to lend your rear to that gay
And yes it was nice
And some people have sick minds !
wagonteeth
Hippoverde
Late to the party but when I redid my different after a shop ruined them, I bought an extra pinion bearing as a sacrificial bearing to get depth right. I just checked a dowel with sand paper and took off a couple thousandth from the inside of the bear so that it was a snug slip fit. Worked like a champ. Put a solid spacer in there. It's shimmed and a little tricky but doable.
But if you're sticking with factory gears, just buy a third member. I wouldn't bother learning r&p assembly for stock gears.
But if you're sticking with factory gears, just buy a third member. I wouldn't bother learning r&p assembly for stock gears.
- Thread starter
- #49
Alright guys the saga of me trying to figure this out continues. I was able to take a day off work and clean some parts. I noticed a few things and wanted to get y’all’s opinion.
Birfs:
Obviously I need a new driver side birfield. I’m unsure if I should just replace the passenger side as well, I don’t know what to look for in terms of wear and such.
Inner Axle Shafts:
There are clear signs of wear on the spline teeth on both driver and passenger sides. I will put videos below, you can see the wear on the end of the pick. Obviously in a perfect world I would just replace both complete cv axles but I am trying to do this on a budget. Buy once cry once I know.
Diff:
Basically just asking about the factory locker. Prior to all this happening my locker wouldn’t engage. The light would just flash but not go solid. Pulling the locker before the diff I noticed a hose wasn’t connected, not sure what it is for but I’m assuming that’s what my problem is.
Thank you
Birfs:
Obviously I need a new driver side birfield. I’m unsure if I should just replace the passenger side as well, I don’t know what to look for in terms of wear and such.
Inner Axle Shafts:
There are clear signs of wear on the spline teeth on both driver and passenger sides. I will put videos below, you can see the wear on the end of the pick. Obviously in a perfect world I would just replace both complete cv axles but I am trying to do this on a budget. Buy once cry once I know.
Diff:
Basically just asking about the factory locker. Prior to all this happening my locker wouldn’t engage. The light would just flash but not go solid. Pulling the locker before the diff I noticed a hose wasn’t connected, not sure what it is for but I’m assuming that’s what my problem is.
Thank you
- Thread starter
- #50
I inspected that area there is some wear on the outer surface. There is nothing significant where the seal sits. I was planning on upgrading to the marlin crawler heavy duty eco seals that y’all offer on your website.
Members including my self have not had good luck with the MC seals, just get the OEM seals.
I do see the ware but it doesn’t look alarming. That being said I would replace both axle completely it probably not that much more the just buying the berfilds
The hose is the breather if it was disconnected moisture, and or water probably got in there and most likely you problem.
You need to open up the actuator and clean it up. @landtank has rebuild kits for it.
I do see the ware but it doesn’t look alarming. That being said I would replace both axle completely it probably not that much more the just buying the berfilds
The hose is the breather if it was disconnected moisture, and or water probably got in there and most likely you problem.
You need to open up the actuator and clean it up. @landtank has rebuild kits for it.
- Thread starter
- #52
Thanks for your advice!
- Thread starter
- #53
What kind and where would you get both complete axles? There is a few options on cruiser teq, just wondering if there is anything better out there.
I run RCVs but for your application I would go with with something from Cruiser Teq. There my go to for drive train parts.
And we stock all the RCV options too!
Splines engage on the spline. That is, the face of the spline. Those OEM splines are involute and roll formed. In theory, there shouldn't be any contact between the O.D. of the spline tooth and the mating part. The involute profile centers the two members when a torque is applied. The major O.D. of the axle and the major I.D. of the mating spline are non interference. Your best bet to determine wear is to have both parts perfectly clean, and engage them. Wiggle them back and forth. From what I can tell in your pictures, there is nothing out of the ordinary.
- Thread starter
- #57
Did you have to upgrade your drive flange when you put in the RCVs? They are the only ones available on Cruiser Teq right now.
No, unless you are 94 or older.
Are you looking for Heavy Duty replacements? We should have a handful of options available.
- Thread starter
- #60
95! The ones I see are 30 spline
Ideally yes. Would rather buy something now that will last and handle future upgrades. The only ones I can find are the regular RCVs and the 300m RCVs
