Diff Protection
- Thread starter alvarorb
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I would stick weld it before I TIG'd it.
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clownmidget said:
Agreed, that's how I dented mine, sliding back off a rock.
clownmidget said:
Junk doesn't rock crawl. There's no rock crawling on the east coast -- just
dirt roads.
I haven't compared the housing thicknesses between the mini's and 80's, but on my runner rear axle I had to clearance the pumpkin area when I did the elocker conversion. I was able to peen it out using a BFH, and this is the area that's already stamped, ie cold worked. An impact from granite would do the trick. Marlin sells a "lite" version for $25 to protect just the ring gear http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/armor.htm
Tapage said:
Based on the picture, it looks like a sewer cap that's been lasered/plasma cut. If that is the material, then it's cast iron and can be welded with a MIG. I don't think I'd have the patience to lie under the diff and TIG it for that long
On the LRs, we simply replace the front face of (front diff) with a sewer cap and stick a fill hole bung on it. I wonder if that's been done for the 80/60/40.
Thanks.
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alia176 said:Based on the picture, it looks like a sewer cap that's been lasered/plasma cut. If that is the material, then it's cast iron and can be welded with a MIG. I don't think I'd have the patience to lie under the diff and TIG it for that long
On the LRs, we simply replace the front face of (front diff) with a sewer cap and stick a fill hole bung on it. I wonder if that's been done for the 80/60/40.
Thanks.
If you knew all the wonders that become when one does not have the suitable tools
They are made from a Weld On Pipe Cap.
A cutting torch is used to 1/2 them, then to section them so they sit close to the dif-cover. I do these in tha driveway at home, there is no plasma or laser
. A grinder is used to make sure the surfaces are flat and to bevel the edge for welding. A hole saw is used for the fill and drain holes. They are not rocket science, but there is a bit of labor involved to produce these.
Also, if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
PMK
A cutting torch is used to 1/2 them, then to section them so they sit close to the dif-cover. I do these in tha driveway at home, there is no plasma or laser
. A grinder is used to make sure the surfaces are flat and to bevel the edge for welding. A hole saw is used for the fill and drain holes. They are not rocket science, but there is a bit of labor involved to produce these.Also, if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
PMK
alia176 said:Based on the picture, it looks like a sewer cap that's been lasered/plasma cut. If that is the material, then it's cast iron and can be welded with a MIG. I don't think I'd have the patience to lie under the diff and TIG it for that long
On the LRs, we simply replace the front face of (front diff) with a sewer cap and stick a fill hole bung on it. I wonder if that's been done for the 80/60/40.
Thanks.
I don't recall the exact content but I seem to recall cast iron has >= 1% carbon which limits its weldability. I haven't seen wire (but I haven't looked) that will weld iron. I have used NiRod to stick weld cast to steel, it's formulated to weld cast iron.
I didn't spark test it, but I'm pretty sure the cap is steel.
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sorry to dig up an old thread, but i just called Marlin Crawler and they said they do not make a front diff protection for the 80 series??
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I'm gonna pile on too.....This isn't a new idea, I put this on my 85 yota truck about 6 years ago ($15 back then) and it got beat all to hell and I don't even wheel that hard. Go to Disney, Ok drive thru all the water crossings with hidden rocks and see if you don't dent anything.
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your diff is the lowest hanging object on the vehicle, to say it doesn't need protection makes no sense
It's like being the catcher and not wearing a cup. You might feel better for a little while, but its gonna come back to hurt ya.
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If you can swap out an 80 HP diff into a mini truck diff why couldn't one of the Trail Gear, AllPro or Marlins premade diff protectors work on an 80? Is the housing that much bigger or is there a tie rod issue??
