Diff Drain Issue & Other Knuckle Drama

Cass007

 
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So I finally worked up the courage to begin attempting the knuckle rebuild today on the Cruiser. Step 1 ... drain the diff oil. Took heed and made sure to loosen the fill plug first. No problem there. Step 2 drain the fluid ... problem.

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Can't get the socket (tried 2 different ones) on the bolt head. Looking for any cheats or tricks before trying to Dremmel it open a bit. The angle is crap to see what I'm doing. It's the leading edge towards the front of the truck.

I can ruin the bolt if needed as long as it comes out. New Wit's End pieces waiting to go in.

Guess this is what happens when you go wheeling in rocks and you are the runt :bang:

Can I do the knuckle rebuild w/o draining or is that a FAIL?
 

inkpot

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Looks like somebody stole yur rig and went joy riding in the rocks!!

Seriously, it’s a pretty common problem if you wheel in the rocks. Dremel with a Carbide burr, or a hammer/ Air chisel will open it up. Use a thin wall socket instead of an impact socket. We often weld a bunch of sacrificial metal onto that area to minimize the problem.
 

Cass007

 
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Ah ... I see. I'm at stock height still and may end up doing this if I can ever complete this baselining. No air tools, so air hammer is a nope for me. Will see if anyone else has a miracle fix and then say a prayer and grind away. Sucks finally getting started only to stop again. I would just throw the wheels on and take it somewhere, but I had already taken the calipers off and hate to have done that work for nothing.
 

Tools R Us

 
 
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And replace with the Toyota 10mm allen plugs

=3
Not a fan of the Camry plugs, the magnet is smaller and when wheeled in the rocks, the Allen hole tends to get jammed full of rock. Digging/breaking the rock out of the Allen hole or making some room for the socket, I find the latter easier.
 
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I had to use a chisel to get the plug out of my transfer case. Hand chisel and a 4# hammer works fine, don't need an air chisel. You can also grind your socket flat to remove the "eased" edge designed to have it settle onto the bolt more easily. This puts the socket in firmer contact with the bolt.

google image:
 

Tools R Us

 
 
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... You can also grind your socket flat to remove the "eased" edge designed to have it settle onto the bolt more easily. This puts the socket in firmer contact with the bolt.
Yep and if you really need to get mad at it, a 15/16" socket fits tighter, sometimes needs to be hammered on. Hammer on the face of the plug to further collapse the seal washer (loosens the plug) tap the socket on and zip the plug out with an impact, have never had this fail.
 

Cass007

 
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Turned down my give a *&%$ and got busy with the Dremmel ... success.
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Immediately ran into my next issue when trying to remove the cone washers. I'm using a brass drift and 2lb sledge hammer and cannot get them to disengage. Possible the PO sealed this hub with RTV. Now I need advice on what to do to get the end piece off please. Stupid truck!!!

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I have hit each stud with the hammer and drift and no movement at all. Feel like I'm hitting it hard enough based on having seen Ryen's video and how hard he hit them. Snap ring is off as well. Pure luck it shot off and I found it. It has beveled sides with no eyelets to hold it? Not sure how I will get that back on.
 
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I would put the nuts back on when you hit the studs. more hammer and try alittle pb blaster on them. let them soak and try again...
 

Tools R Us

 
 
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...
I have hit each stud with the hammer and drift and no movement at all. ...
We don't hit the studs, it's easy to deform them, possibly reducing their holding power. Using the brass drift, hit the face of the drive plate, as if driving it into the hub. May need to pull the big girl panties pretty tight, and/or get a bigger hammer! This is another place where an air hammer makes short work of it.
 

Cass007

 
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Copy that ... in the Otramm video at 6:55 he is hitting the studs, so monkey see, monkey do. Back to the garage to try hitting the face of the plate.

Thanks all for the real time help. I should only have many more questions.
 

srf18

Steamer
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Keep wailing away w/ your brass hammer as @Tools R Us says, they’ll come out.

Regarding the snap ring when you put it together, a snap ring expander and a bolt in the end of the axle shaft will allow you to pull out the shaft to expose the groove and get the snap ring in place.

Can find discussion regarding the snap ring on page 2, post #28 and more discussion on bolt sizes discussed on page 3, post #47. HTH.

Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ
 
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Not sure if it's kosher, but I sometimes hit the outside edge of the drive plate with the drift right at whatever o'clock the problem stud is at.
I've done the same thing. I have also used a big flathead screwdriver and hit the edge of the cone washers at an angle and it dislodges them.
 
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