Builds Diesel Conversion to Isuzu 4BD1T

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The NV4500 HD is beefier than an H55, but the standard NV4500 (gas versions) is probably right on par with the H55.

With the NV4500 you will likely need an adapter to the transfer case and the engine. Need custom crossmember and clutch hose, possibly special clutch pieces depending on which engine/adapter setup you are using.

The H55 fits right in place of your 4 speed or A440. Only one adapter necessary to connect it to the engine (Isuzu or Cummins). Overdrive is not spectacular, but 3.73 gears are very available for 60 series and work excellent with 33" tires and a Cummins or Isuzu. 4.10's and 35's work well with the H55 too.

The difference between the "HD" NV4500s and the std. units is just the input shaft. The internals are the same. I was hesitant when I put mine in that I wouldn't like it as much as I did my H55. I like it a lot more. It is the Holy Grail of five-speeds; smooth, super quite, shifts with so little effort you would think it's a Honda Civic (late Dodge and all Chevy versions that is) The bomb-proof nature of the beast is comforting too. It's ready for Cummins 6BTs, big blocks, whatever turns you on.
 
The difference between the "HD" NV4500s and the std. units is just the input shaft. The internals are the same. I was hesitant when I put mine in that I wouldn't like it as much as I did my H55. I like it a lot more. It is the Holy Grail of five-speeds; smooth, super quite, shifts with so little effort you would think it's a Honda Civic (late Dodge and all Chevy versions that is) The bomb-proof nature of the beast is comforting too. It's ready for Cummins 6BTs, big blocks, whatever turns you on.

I must respectfully disagree with your information.

The 94+ Dodge diesel and V10 NV4500's were the ONLY HD versions with significant differences in mainshaft and 5th gear size over the standard NV4500.

There are a bunch of different NV4500's. Lots of parts that don't interchange, lots of false fixes for 5th gear.

They were certainly one of the better transmission options Dodge used behind a Cummins, but they aren't bombproof.
 
Don,Went to the dealership to get a master rebuild kit for the motor (4BD1t). The guy asked if I had the VIN number as each motor is a little different. Where might a person find the VIN number on these motors? There is a P/N on top of the valve cover that gives the displacement of engine and other stuff. Is this the number? Seems like I read somewhere that the VIN is on the side of the block. Is this right? THANKS again.
 
The Vin is the Vehicle ID for the truck it came out of. If you didn't get the vin for your truck then there are some sample Vin's on 4BTswaps.com from other guys or let me know and I can give you one of mine from my 89' or 90'. The numbers on the block won't help the parts guys, they need the Vin for their computer search engine.

Don
 
I must respectfully disagree with your information.

The 94+ Dodge diesel and V10 NV4500's were the ONLY HD versions with significant differences in mainshaft and 5th gear size over the standard NV4500.

There are a bunch of different NV4500's. Lots of parts that don't interchange, lots of false fixes for 5th gear.

They were certainly one of the better transmission options Dodge used behind a Cummins, but they aren't bombproof.

It was, without question, the best manual tranmission option that Dodge ever offered for a Cummins, V10 or V8. The input shaft, front retainer and output spline count are the only differences on the Dodge versions. The Chevy versions used a longer tailshaft that was 32-spline, the Dodges were shorter and either a 23 or 29 spline depending on the original application. Internals, with the exception of the early Chevy versions with the crazy-low first gear ratio and fith-gear retention hardware (Dodge only), were all identical. And yes, "bomb proof" would adequately describe a tranmission that can handle a Cummins 6BT that makes 800+ pounds of torque. To say otherwise makes me wonder if you have it confused with the little sister, the NV3500, which was a turd pile.
 
It was, without question, the best manual tranmission option that Dodge ever offered for a Cummins, V10 or V8. The input shaft, front retainer and output spline count are the only differences on the Dodge versions. The Chevy versions used a longer tailshaft that was 32-spline, the Dodges were shorter and either a 23 or 29 spline depending on the original application. Internals, with the exception of the early Chevy versions with the crazy-low first gear ratio and fith-gear retention hardware (Dodge only), were all identical. And yes, "bomb proof" would adequately describe a tranmission that can handle a Cummins 6BT that makes 800+ pounds of torque. To say otherwise makes me wonder if you have it confused with the little sister, the NV3500, which was a turd pile.


No, I'm certainly not confused. I have overhauled many, many NV4500's. I've seen more than I can count ripped apart behind 500 lb/ft 5.9's with stock clutches. I've installed more than a dozen Torque King mainshaft and 5th gear sets and seen every other style of 5th gear retention fail. I did this work as side income when starting a machine shop for local hotshot guys. A close friend owns a diesel repair shop. I did all his stickshift transmission benchwork for several years. In the time period I did this work a 5.9 Dodge with an NV4500 was the primary vehicle employed for hotshot type work. I was busy with NV4500 repairs.

I have machined custom mainshafts for NV4500's, switched gearsets and ratios. mixed and matched GM and Dodge parts to create custom versions and I still have to call experts at transmission parts houses with questions on occasion.

There are three completely different cluster gears for NV4500's, not two. The early GM, the early dodge and the late dodge. The late cluster gear set coincided with the top plate change. These parts do not interchange.

There is a significant difference in the diameter of the mainshaft from the standard duty NV4500 to the HD version. This is not regarding the output shaft splines, but specific to the size of the shaft inside the transmission. The HD NV4500 requires a different socket to remove the 5th gear nut.


A good 5 speed transmission behind a 5.9 Cummins is an FSO Fuller.

I agreed the NV4500 HD is a reasonable transmission behind a 5.9 on the grounds that when they do break parts are dirt cheap for them and they are easy to work on with only a few special tools. The NV5600 is an engineering disaster. The G56 isn't a bad design, but parts are beyond ridiculous for them.

IMO, the Ford ZF 6 speeds are miles ahead of any of the other diesel pickup offerings. The ZF is a good design, it's engineered well with service and rebuilds in mind, the size of the parts inside is in accurate proportion for what they should be to handle a 350HP diesel engine. The shift quality is fair and quite good when you're aware of the mass of the parts the stick is moving inside.

NV4500's are not bad, in the overall scope of transmissions to put behind a 5.9 Cummins an NV4500 with a few thousand in upgrades assembled properly will handle quite a bit. A stock one is atleast cheap to fix when it breaks.

Sorry for cluttering the thread. I just don't see a significant advantage to a light duty NV4500 over an H55. I think with the right gears and tires the H55's short overdrive will actually be pleasant, not disliked. I have driven a number of 4BT converted vehicles with Mazda M5R2 5 speeds including a 60 series Landcruiser and the overall performance was excellent. The M5R2 has a similar short 5th gear.
 
To add my experience with the H55 + 3.70's + 33" tires combined with a 4bd2 in my 60. I like the combo, she cruises along at 65 or so, drives and pulls well, and over the 13,000 + miles since my swap, she has averaged 18.6 mpg. Not bad IMHO considering 80% + of those miles are in the Sierra's, fair amount of dirt, well loaded with a roof rack.

I have not driven or been in a NV4500 swap, so I can't compare the two. But I'm happy with the combo in mine.

Doug
 
I'm doing the 4BD1T + H55 + 3.70 + 33s and my adapter from 69rambler is in the mail and the engine is on the stand ready to be rebuilt and I am about as happy as a bug in a rug.

Being able to leave the transmission and drive shafts alone and "just" have an adapter from the engine to the bellhousing using the same clutch as a stock 60 is worth a huge amount to me.

Now to get the thing rebuilt....and no, I have no idea what I am doing!
 
Dazed,

Sounds like you have a great start going there!

You might have to lengthen the rear drive shaft and shorten the front and change the location of the tranny crossmember due to the shorter length of 69Rambler's adapter. But in the big scheme of things, this is a minor change in the plans but I just want you to be prepared for everything.


Don
 
I was thinking that I wouldnt because I am using the old 2F (says 3F) bellhousing which should put the back of the engine in the same location as the back of the 2F....well actually pushed forward about an inch due to the adapter. I will have to move the radiator back some, unless I want a large space between the radiator/fan shroud and the fan, which I don't.

I haven't done any fit checks yet, but I will. Also, I have lots of pictures for a post build write up.
 
The back of the Isuzu will be 1.25" forward of where the original 2F or 3FE sat with the new adapters.

Don, on your 440 swap did you leave the 440 in the factory location? The way you did it with spacer between the JR403 bellhousing and the A440 should put the engine around the same distance from the firewall as the H55 adapters we made.

The Isuzu is only moved excessively forward when stack on adapter kits like IDS or the economy ones we sell are used. If you use the OE Isuzu adapter and bellhousing it's much larger diameter than any of the adapters we make, but it's actually the same length or shorter overall.
 
Whoops! Sorry about that. I totally forgot that you get to use the Toyota bellhousing with 69Ramblers kit. My mistake and you should be fine for spacing.

On my A440 conversion I was originally a manual tranny Cruiser FJ60, so when I went to the auto I left the engine in the same position and had to make all new mounts for the tranny crossmember that were further to the rear.

If my engine was 1.25" further forward of its current position it would be great for spacing. As it is, I am pretty tight in the rear near the firewall and could really use that extra spacing for my turbo inlet piping on my bigger turbo.


Don
 
The turbo pipe should be interesting. I am trying, with no luck so far, to find a wastegated HX30 to put on it.
 
Hi Dazed,

Yeah, finding an HX30 for an upgrade can take a while. I put one on my second engine that I just finished up and it took me a few months of searching to find one because it is such a popular turbo. Some of the cummins guys have been running the chinese copies with great results and you can buy them on ebay for decent prices new.http://www.ebay.com/itm/251147411209#ht_2756wt_1189

Even if it only lasts a year and you have to rebuild it with genuine Holset parts, it is still a pretty good deal. You should buy one and be the guinea pig for the rest of us.;)

Here is a link to a video of my first start on my 2nd engine with the HX30 on it. Sorry for the poor video quality, I think my camera is getting old or something.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUfVjUwtvpI&feature=plcp


Don
 
thanks!
 
Don
How did you get that thing so shiny? I think it has more chrome than the lowrider that lives nextdoor! But seriously, how is it so shiny?
Mitch
 
My other engine I painted the valve cover and it looked ok but this one was pretty trashed so I spent a couple of days polishing it and then had it chromed so that it would never rust because it is eventually going to spend quite a bit of time in Alaska. Then the other accesories are polished just so it would match the valve cover. I like a clean engine bay and so this one will be easy to keep clean over time.

Hopefully it won't look too lowrider-ish when it is installed.

Don
 
Glth,

Havn't forgot about you. Been reading your post whenever I get a chance. Just now on page 36. Will send you a PM on the one you sent.



Don,

Starting to get things cleaned up on the 4BD1T. Going tomorrow to see how much a master rebuild kit costs. Are you just using a ground and a hot wire to get your engine started on the engine stand? Also, was trying to take my old trans and tcase apart with not much luck. Is there four bolts that hold the tcase to the trans or am I missing something? As soon as I get my engine stand built, I will post up a youtube vid of it running. Thanks for all of the help. :cheers:
 

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