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Hi Mitch,
You are dead on with all your line layouts and the fact that the excess electric pump pressure is just diverted back to the tank through the return line. The only thing that I could add is that I made the inlet and outlet fittings all 1/4" and the return line fitting I made 1/8" to create a positive pressure to the lift pump and a lesser pressure returning to the tank.
The electric pump is wired on its own circuit that comes off the ignition key and the prime button is direct wired to the battery so I can prime anytime whether the ignition is on or off.
Let me know if you need any other info,
Don
If anyone is interested, I started my build thread for my 40 series over in the 40 section and it is Isuzu diesel powered as well.
Here is the link.https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/719763-how-build-diesel-40-budget-w-isuzu-4bd1t-2.html
Enjoy!
Don
Yeah, I had a scrap piece of stainless tubing and I turned it down a little on a lathe so it was a tight fit and then pressed it into the center piece of the filter mount.
Don
Ok, so how much did this cost to do you ask? Well, I have to say first, that like most guys on this forum, I am one cheap son of a gun and if I can build it instead of buying it, I will. I set out to do this conversion for $2500 and that just didn't happen. Having to buy the rebuild kit and alternator, water pump, ac compressor, Injectors, Injector pump, turbo, all these added up to quite a bit and ran the bill to about $3200 total. Not the price I wanted but still a reasonable price for a complete diesel conversion in my book.
One thing I think I should mention is the simplicity of this engine. I have been around gas engines my whole life and grew up working on dirtbikes and gocarts and such but I had never had any experience with a diesel engine before and this one was pretty amazing to work on. This engine has a completely gear driven valvetrain, crank, cam and injector timining. There are no belts or chains, only heavy duty gears that all line up simply with simple letter timing marks on each gear. This was such a simple and straightforward engine to work on and I did all the work in my garage with no need for a machine shop. If I can rebuild this engine in my garage, anybody can. I had a factory manual and the help of all the experts like Dougal on the 4BTSwaps forum to answer my questions and it was really not that tough, just time consuming as I had to do all on my days off from work.
As more people do this conversion, I think you will see it become a lot more popular for cruisers due to the cost compared to a Toyota diesel for those of us on a "working man with a family" budget. Nothing against a Toyota diesel, I would probably have bought one if I had that kind of money, but I just didn't. That being said, I don't think I would be any happier than I am with this engine anyway.
One other thing to mention is the quietness of this engine compared to some others I have seen used. This engine is suprisingly quiet for an industrial diesel engine. I have a friend that has a Cummins 4bt in his jeep and this motor is much quieter than it is. I think the Cummins is a great engine, but holy cow are they loud!
Another thing that I have been working on for the last month or so is my fuel filtration. I have a couple of buddies with Dodge diesels and they are using the Airdog systems on their trucks and they love them. The Airdog system is a air/fuel separator system that is supposed to increase your mileage per gallon by making your fuel more efficient and making your injectors last longer by removing contaminants and air from your fuel.
Anyone who has looked into this system has probably noticed that the Airdog has a pretty hefty pricetag of $500. Well, I don't have that kind of money to put into fuel filter systems, but I am pretty good at building stuff other people have developed and so I set out to build my own Fuel /Air Seperator like the Airdog. I did some research on the internet and diesel forums for Dodge and Ford diesels and low and behold somebody has already done it themselves. One of the guys even had the patent drawing of it. It basically is a two filter system that uses a 12 micron water seperator on one filter and a 2 micron fuel filter on the other. The way the system works is that it uses an extension tube down the middle of the 2 micron filter housing to pick up the fuel at the bottom of the filter instead of at the top as usual. It then has another port at the top of tht filter housing to allow the fuel with air in it to be bypassed back to the fuel tank via a return hose. That's it! I built mine for about $85 including all lines and filters and housings and fittings. I plumbed an inline electric fuel pump between my tank and the filter housings to help push fuel through the filters since I run a blend of veggie oil and diesel fuel. I also use this pump to help prime the filters when I change them as well.
This is a super filtration system and hopefully helps preserve my investment over the years to come.
wow, that's amazing fuel mileage for a damn 60 series....getting 11-12 with mine lol
what kind of vehicles are those engines commonly found in?
helluva nice job btw, hat's off to you!
Ok, a few people have asked me to post up a parts list of what it took to do this conversion. Some of the parts are priced lower than you might be able to find because I am a scrounger and a cheap SOB, so I found many of the parts on Ebay or on Craigslist and it saved me a bunch of money overall. A bunch of the parts came from the bone yard and I pulled them myself to save money as well. The H55F was quite as steal that I found locally, as was the rebuild kit for it that I found on ebay. The point is, when you don't have that much money, it is amazing what you can do with a little searching on the internet and some creativity at the junkyard!
Parts list for Isuzu Diesel conversion.
Used Isuzu 4BD1T $650 after my 50% refund
Isuzu Diesel Swapper adapter kit $600
New clutch and plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing $140
Rebuild kit for Isuzu 4BD1T from ebay $720
Used H55F tranny $650
H55T rebuild kit $125
Used low mileage FJ62 transfer case $100
Used HJ61 air cleaner $80
Intake piping and silicone hoses $75
FJ62 Throttle cable & pedal from the bone yard $25
Fj62 power steering lines used from the bone yard $18
Misc. relays and wiring for starter and glow plugs and fan $25
Used electric radiator fan from the bone yard $15
Fuel Air/Water separator system $85
Custom A/C hoses and Sanden 508 compressor $128
Total Cost $3436.00
Hope this helps.
Don