dies on quick pedal action (1 Viewer)

[madinal]

I searched the site and didn't find my answer.
1979 desmogged 2F
It will accelerate with a slow appication of gas pedal but when I stomp on it, it dies.
Here is what I know:
replaced accel pump when it wouldn't start,
replaced idle solenoid when it wouldn't idle
set mixture screw to steady 21" vacuum
wires, plugs, coil all good.
Here is what I can't figure:
I opened the window and marked the needle with welders soap,
I pulled the cover underneath and marked the BB, there are no other marks on the flywheel.
with the timing light, I can't see the BB when it is idleing, I advanced the timing by lifting the throttle and still no BB
I loosened the clamp holding the Distributor but it won't move.

What is the secret to getting the distributor loose? with the heater hoses, dipstick, oil filter and battery tray, I can't get to it.
I think I need to retard the timing, so which direction do I turn it to retard?
Am I doing the right thing to correct the hesitation?

 

[zags]

I know the pump is new, but really sounds like an accelerator pump issue. Have you pulled the air cleaner and looked down the carb while working the linkage just to make sure it is squirting?

 

[madinal]

Yea, I can watch it pump when I move the level. I'll check the adjustment to make sure it is adjusted correctly.

 

[Pdwight]

Sight window

Is the fuel pump keeping the bowl full of gas ?

 

[FJforty]

Lets focus on the dist. and get it loose, you need to check the timing.

 

[waiting for time]

Does the vacuum advance work?
Check if the breaker plate moves when you suck on the vacuum hose going to the distr.

 

[madinal]

The bowl stays 3/4 full in the window and I sucked the advance on the distributor. (yuck) Should I pull all the plugs and turn the engine to find the BB? How do I turn the engine? Once I "find" the BB I can figure out where the distributor is relative to #1.

 

[waiting for time]

The bowl stays 3/4 full in the window and I sucked the advance on the distributor. (yuck) Should I pull all the plugs and turn the engine to find the BB? How do I turn the engine? Once I "find" the BB I can figure out where the distributor is relative to #1.

Did you see the breaker plate, where points are mounted on, move while sucking?

 

[madinal]

I have the electronic distributor. I saw the little rod connected to the diaphram move but I couldn't suck the 20 inches to rotate the assembly. I accepted the fact that it moved freely under vacuum.

 

[madinal]

Well, I decided to take action, I wrapped the jaws of a Channel Lock pliers in tape and reached in a twisted the distributor a few times to loosen it up. I had put a witness mark on the oil filter so I could return it to where it would start.
With it idleing, I was able to find the BB but it didn't run real well. There are lots of recommendations on where to set the timing and none of them seem to be at 7* BTDC (where the BB is). I assume (dangerous word) that moving the BB down in the window will advance the timing. Can someone tell me how big the window is in degrees of timing? In other words, if I time it so the BB is at the lower edge of the window, what is my degrees BTDC? Is there a better way, I don't seem to get much movement off of 22" a vacuum when I move the distributor.

 

[Pdwight]

I have my 78 Dizzy out right now and decided to take a look, the advance plate moves very little with a vacuum hand gauge/pump...however it is spring-loaded so the weights can advance it further while running. Jim would be the guy to chime in on this.

Dwight

 

[FJ40Jim]

To loosen the dissy clamp, a 10mm gearwrench is the tool, reaching your skinny arm in behind the front tire, between frame and inner fender. If skinny arms are not available, try from underneath on a creeper.

The window is about 10* from top to bottom. If the BB is in the middle, it's 7*BTDC. If the BB is at the bottom edge of the window, timing is ~12*btdc.

That being said, if the advance didn't work at all, but the timing is close enough that the engine is making 20" of vacuum, the engine would still accelerate smoothly, just not with as much pep as expected.

There is still a fuel problem, something w/ the AP circuit.