Diagnosing "no electrical power" condition on '94 Land Cruiser

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Help!! No electric power on Land Cruiser

I have a 1994 FZJ80 Land Cruiser with a 4.5 Liter 1FZ-FE engine. It's my daily driver and I'm trying to fix a starter/electrical problem this weekend.

Timeline of events:

3 weeks ago: The vehicle begins to have starting problems. I turn the key to start, and the engine does not crank at all. I do NOT hear any clicking noise from the starter or any noises at all. Each day, I try roughly 5-15 times and eventually the starter engages and the vehicle starts right up. This 'try-several-times' condition continues for a couple weeks of daily driving.

1 week ago: This problem completely goes away and I get normal first-try starts. This 'problem free' condition lasts about a week of daily driving, until yesterday.

Yesterday: I go to start the car and a new variation of the problem arises. When I turned the key to the "Acc" positon, everything appeared fine -- dash lights on, wipers function etc. When I turned the key one step further to "Start" it appeared the entire electric system shutdown -- i.e., no clock, no horn, no hazards, no headlights, no dash lights, no wipers, no brake lights. No evidence whatsoever of electric power making it to ANY device or accessory in the vehicle.

Currently: I turn the key many times to try to start, removing the key between tries. Roughly 5% of the time the dash lights and clock illuminate normally when the key is at the "Acc" position. But when I turn the key one step further to "Start," the starter usually makes a very brief "chung" sound and immediately the dash lights and clock and everything else go dead. After that, all electrical systems appear completely and semi-permanently shut down. For the next 95% of the times I retry starting, I get no dash lights or electric power to anything and no sound from the starter at any point in the process.

Do you think I may have a short in the starter motor itself?

Are there steps I can take to better diagnose this problem?

I would really appreciate any thoughts or advice you may have.
 
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Sounds like a bad battery to me. Take it somewhere and get it tested, they do that for free. Bad cells can show up with intermittant problems
 
Sounds like a bad battery to me. Take it somewhere and get it tested, they do that for free. Bad cells can show up with intermittant problems

X2 to Romer's post. Also have you dried jump starting it? If you still have same symptoms with good jumper cables, good connections and running vehicle attached, it almost sounds like a faulty ignition switch. There are ways to diagnose that, but unless you're experienced at working around car batteries, starters, solenoids and shorting out high current connections, I would recommend getting some help. HTH
 
Romer, 80t0ylc, Cruiserdan,

Thanks very much for your quick and good ideas. You led me directly to the solution.

Using a volt meter, I measured 12.53 Volts on the battery...so I thought the battery was OK.

After reading your responses, I decided to jump the battery. The vehicle started immediately.

The vehicle has a (typically very reliable) Odyssey AGM battery. I like the Odyssey even better than Optima. Anyway, a month or so ago the positive post worked itself loose. I re-tightened the positive post with an allen wrench. Perhaps the loose post condition led to some internal battery damage.

I plan to replace the battery and hopefully that will be the end of the problem.

Thank you all very much. Left to my own devices, I was probably going to remove the starter to look for a short. You saved me a lot of work.
 
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Have the battery tested before you replace is so you can be sure.
 
Have the battery tested before you replace it so you can be sure.

OK, good idea, will do. I'll bring it to a local Batteries Plus. As I recall, they have testing equipment there.
 
If the battery tests OK, check all connections; especially the ground connection.

-B-
 
Thanks for the additional feedback Beowulf. Will do.

I did some further testing. My vehicle will start when the battery is attached to a Deltran Battery Tender charger, even if the charger is unplugged!

Next I put a known good battery from another vehicle in my vehicle, and it started right up.

I'll have the battery checked tomorrow.

The Odyssey battery is under a 4 year warranty so if I need to replace it, it will not cost anything.
 
Same here on my 92 1HDT

Exactly same issue here. Got car back from autospark yesterday after basic wiring tidy up, and gauge install before i get stuck in to my power ups. Walked to car this morning and turned the key and heard a single quiet "Chung" noise. (Not the normal click of the starter solenoid at low batt level.) Instantly all my electrics died. No dash lights, no headlights, no nothing even from direct wired items like my UHF. (Correction - my immobiliser alarm and central locking still worked from key remote= weird)

Battery tested on multimeter at 12.8v. Started worrying about a main fuse etc... And came here... I know my battery is OK as it's 6 month old Exide Extreme and hasn't been bounced or shorted or run flat.

Whacked on the jumper cables = instant start as usual. Dropped jumpers and turned off motor to try again. All good like usual.

So now it's on the charger, but I'm worried. I go bush solo a bit and won't be happy if that happens out-back.

What did you find out ELW2? Battery terminals maybe? Main earth lead?

That's all I can think of that would kill everything stone dead and come back to life with a tiny movement (jumper clamps).

Curious what you found out.
 
Get your battery tested and check your battery voltage when the engine is running.

Sounds like a bad battery or really bad terminal connecrions
 
Sounds like bad battery connections. Take a multi-meter and set it to voltage DC. Put positive lead on the positive battery post. Put negative lead on the positive battery terminal CLAMP. you should read no voltage. Hold it there and have someone start it. You should read no more than .5 vdc (voltage direct current). Next do that with the negative side with the positive meter lead on clamp and the negative lead on the post. If either one of the readings are high clean the treminal. This is called voltage drop.

The problem is the cables make enough contact to power all the small stuff but as soon as you ask it for more power there is not good enough contact to allow all the required amperage through. Imagine it as a garden hose with a kink. There is water pressure at the nozzle when you first open it but as soon as that pressure is released only a dribble is let through.

You can use this test on the battery cables by hooking one lead to the battery post and the other lead to the starter lug for the positive cable, and battery negative post to the starter housing for the negitive cable.
 
I know my battery is OK as it's 6 month old Exide Extreme and hasn't been bounced or shorted or run flat.

NEVER rule out a bad battery.

First thing I'd do is swap it out with another one temporarily.
 
First thing to do is hook up a meter and test it. Shooting from the hip is time consuming and expensive.
 

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