Detail Questions (1 Viewer)

Joined
May 18, 2004
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Seattle, WA
Ok, a couple of little things are starting to go wrong with my truck, and I want to get on top of them before it becomes an issue.

1.) the little wire that goes between the body and the tailgate, right in the middle. Its broken. What does it do?

2.) the black rubber that sealed the inside of the windows has fallen out, what does this do? I haven't had any issues with rain, is it just so it doesn't get loud? There is still a bunch there, it was this strip though.

3.) I want to remove the tint from the rear glass, without destroying the rear defroster, wire brush?
 

FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer
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Lancaster, Ohio, USA
 
 
 
1.) The wire is for the license plate light.
2.) yes, the inner wetherstrip is for noise/dust suppression. Outer wetherstrip keeps most rain out.
3.) Belt sander?
 
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Kennett Square
 
 
 
 
As for #3, I think I'd stay well away from glass with both a wire brush or belt sander (Brinell Hardness). I'd probably look into a solvent such as PPG Prep Solv to dissolve the glue that holds the tint on and remove it chemically. Also, call places that install tint and ask them what they use.
 
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4.) Along the bottom of the body where one would put sliders, are a series of small holes, some with plastic fittings in them. did there used to be trim here?
 

Spook50

I got a rock
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Spokane, WA
 
 
 
WALoeIII said:
4.) Along the bottom of the body where one would put sliders, are a series of small holes, some with plastic fittings in them. did there used to be trim here?
Yeah, also known as "snake blinders". Leave 'em off since all they're do is trap moisture and promote rust. Pull out the plastic fittings too, just so it doesn't look like ass. If you really want it to look like there was nothing there, you could tack pennies to the backsides of the holes and weld the holes to patch 'em. grind the welds down, blend it to the metal, touch up with primer & paint and there ya go. No more holes.
 
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Spook50 said:
Yeah, also known as "snake blinders". Leave 'em off since all they're do is trap moisture and promote rust. Pull out the plastic fittings too, just so it doesn't look like ass. If you really want it to look like there was nothing there, you could tack pennies to the backsides of the holes and weld the holes to patch 'em. grind the welds down, blend it to the metal, touch up with primer & paint and there ya go. No more holes.
Not that worried about it, thanks.
 
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Lafayette, CO
 
 
 
#3....hairdryer, solvent, patience...

To ensure not destroying the de-frogger...I would take it somewhere - The local place around me guarantees not to wreck the d-froster. but you have to leave it for a day or so. They use a solvent and a hairdryer (or heat gun on low) and verrrrry carefully work the tint off. I think they quoted me like $30 or $50 (can't really remember and haven't done it yet) for the back window tint removal.


HTH
 
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Central Oregon
#3
I did my own removal, picked at the corners and tried peeling off the tint, used windex to re-wet the tint next to the window..took several #$%*! hours, used a plastic scraper as I lost patience..ruined the defrost wires... Sold that 62 but did inform the new owner about the defrost..(don't want to be a @#$%**! PO...

worth $30-50 to get it done right.

HD
 
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Durango, Colorado
 
 
 
 
I asked a tint guy once how to do it. He said steel wool. I have not tried it yet but that is how he removed old tint from rear windows claiming no damage to defrost. The idea kind of scares me. I would think it would damage the glass.
 
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Supposedly a water/ammonia mix (low concentration of ammonia) in a spray bottle is key. The ammonia dissolves the adhesive, but doesn't leave any kind of mess. I was prepared to do this, but was able to pull off the tinting with a glass scraper and some patience. It was only a one beer job...
 
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t town, wa
 
 
the best way to get window tint off the back window is to use a steamer.
other wise use the "black bag method" use something with ammonia and hose it then put a black bag over it using the wet to stick it and then place in direct sunlight.but the steamer is way faster.
then just use a razor blade and some soapy water in a pray bottle or just glass cleaner go over the window for any leftover glue. its actually really easy. i used to tint windows
 
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I have the chemical that kills window tint (did all front and side windows) but I don't want to destroy the de-frost. I also have a strip on top of the winshield that I can't get to come off cleanly (god its ugly).

I think I'll just get the local shop to do that, I scratched up my front windows pretty badly when I did them.
 
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North Texas
 
#3

I removed all the tinting from my windows by a combination of a pulling, razor blade, and acetone.

The acetone rally did the trick. It removed all the old glue in seconds. It took about 30 min to remove all tinting and I saved my rear defroster ;) .

Use the acetone you buy in the hardware store (usually in the pain section), not the wife's guys.
 
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Benji said:
#3

I removed all the tinting from my windows by a combination of a pulling, razor blade, and acetone.

The acetone rally did the trick. It removed all the old glue in seconds. It took about 30 min to remove all tinting and I saved my rear defroster ;) .

Use the acetone you buy in the hardware store (usually in the pain section), not the wife's guys.
Good idea, I've got enough of that already to do the job.
 
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Seattle, WA
4WD Logo

Well my 4WD logo has fallen off, right now its being held on with double sided tape, what should I do to have it say on permanently? The Land Cruiser badges are also getting loose.
 
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The Lou
WALoeIII said:
Well my 4WD logo has fallen off, right now its being held on with double sided tape, what should I do to have it say on permanently? The Land Cruiser badges are also getting loose.

On the side ones, pull off the side panels in the bed and you'll see the studs from the plates there. I think they are held on with little "clover" or friction clips. The ones you have might be rusted or just plain lost their resiliency. You can get those at an autobody shop or even a hardware store if you're lucky.


I haven't done my tailgate yet, so no help there, sorry.

Fred
 

cbmontgo

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Divide, Colorado
 
 
 
I feel your pain about the tint........I had that purple crap with aquarium bubbles. It looks like if you are a pimp with a limp, but I don't have a limp.

I removed all of my tint a couple of months ago, and it was a bitch because my tint was so old that it had hardened (i.e. there was no "glue" left, only rock). I read and read and read about ammonia, black blags, hair dryers, and all that s***, but none of it worked. I have more chemicals in my garage left over from that project than Timothy McVeigh.

Bottom line: Use a razor blade and acetone and work VERY slowly around those defrost lines. It took me several afternoons and evening just to get it off my back window. My 60 glass looks factory now.
 
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For removing the tint film, I used a razor blade and a heat gun. Works fast, and no toxic fumes. Harhser solvens may attack the coating covering the heating elements, and you will be into a bigger PITA trying to diagnose where the breaks are and fix them.

After the peeling, I used denatured alcohol to clean up any residue.

M.
 

87CRUSR

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So Cal
 
 
 
My de-fogger works on about 20% of the places at best. Looks like the prior owner destroyed it when removing the tint. NOW....How do I fix?
 

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