destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread (1 Viewer)

[destin]

There is a lot of finessing of the choke on my rig. I also have to use the hand throttle to have a smooth warmup.

In general, with a cool morning first startup, I follow the owner's manual and pull the choke all the way out. Give it a shot of gas with the gas pedal and pull the hand throttle out a bit.

Then, start the engine and it starts right up. But if I don't push the choke in to halfway or so immediately (as per the manual) it will soon start chugging and die.

So, once I've done that, I "feather" the choke and the hand throttle to give it a reasonable warm-up idle speed (1200rpm) with the choke set to maximize the speed for a given throttle setting.

Then, I can easily drive off within seconds.

I find the motor has the most smooth running power if I leave it choked until the temp gauge comes nearly up to, but not at, the first temp mark, which is generally fully warmed up. After that, leaving it choked will cause me to bog down on hills. I can be feathering the choke in as it warms up, but that's the general idea.

Depending on the ambient temperature, it takes a minimum of 3 but usually 4-6 miles on a cold day to get close enough to operating temperature to fully open the choke valve.

(I can shut off the hand choke without dying at a stop sign after 1 mile reliably).

Once the truck has been driven once for the day, it needs just a little choke and no hand throttle to start, and the choke isn't necessary for more than a mile or so.

Your results may vary, but I daily drive my truck year round from -20F to +90F about 4 trips a day and have had a lot of practice.

Very cool
This info will come in handy in the winter.
might even push the heat riser to cold in the winter until it warms up ( have it stuck open cause i could never get it to flip open on its own reliably ) Is your heat riser in working order?

I just ran to get dinner, choke half way out, let it idle for 3 minutes, and drove off fine and dandy

Thansk for the part number for the plug wires, will call dan tomorrow

 

[waiting for time]

Hi Destin,

Just bin reading the last day of postings, you have a well followed tread here with a lot of Mudders stepping in.

It looks like your cruiser is oke now, you just need to get the feel of the manual choke.
You should know that normaly pulling a choke does 2 things to a carb. One is raising the trotlle speed an the second is closing an extra (throttle) valve at the top of the carb. This will create an extra vacuum which will pull more fuel from the venturi in the carb.

A carb is basicaly a tube with a venturi in it and a bowl filled with gas. the level in the bowl and the speed of air passing the venturi determine how much fuell is taken up by the air. The amount of air is regulated by the throttle valve at the bottom of the carb, so the vacuum is not sucking the fuel out of the bowl, and of corse the ammount of air the engine can take.

A cold engine has a lot more friction then a warm engine. This means it needs more energy to keep it turning and the energy is provided by the fuell. So when you pull the choke it will create a higher vacuum in the carb so not only airspeed in the carb but also vacuum will draw fuel from the bowl giving a richer mixture.

I don't know if your carb also opens the throttle a little when on choke but if it doesn't you might want to pull the hand throttle a bit when on choke.
So when you choke don't try to keep the revs at normal idle because your engine will stall when pulling up, it needs enough airspeed and vacuum in the carb when cold. You should play with your choke to find out how the engine performs during warm up.
It will change almost per second and the way it does will also change during the break in of the engine.

So to much choke and the engine gets to little fuel and to much choke and the mixture is to rich and the chike valve blocks the airflow through the carb.

This will give you a basic idea of how a carb works.

Have fun trying everything out and don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions.

 

[destin]

Hi Destin,

Just bin reading the last day of postings, you have a well followed tread here with a lot of Mudders stepping in.

It looks like your cruiser is oke now, you just need to get the feel of the manual choke.
You should know that normaly pulling a choke does 2 things to a carb. One is raising the trotlle speed an the second is closing an extra (throttle) valve at the top of the carb. This will create an extra vacuum which will pull more fuel from the venturi in the carb.

A carb is basicaly a tube with a venturi in it and a bowl filled with gas. the level in the bowl and the speed of air passing the venturi determine how much fuell is taken up by the air. The amount of air is regulated by the throttle valve at the bottom of the carb, so the vacuum is not sucking the fuel out of the bowl, and of corse the ammount of air the engine can take.

A cold engine has a lot more friction then a warm engine. This means it needs more energy to keep it turning and the energy is provided by the fuell. So when you pull the choke it will create a higher vacuum in the carb so not only airspeed in the carb but also vacuum will draw fuel from the bowl giving a richer mixture.

I don't know if your carb also opens the throttle a little when on choke but if it doesn't you might want to pull the hand throttle a bit when on choke.
So when you choke don't try to keep the revs at normal idle because your engine will stall when pulling up, it needs enough airspeed and vacuum in the carb when cold. You should play with your choke to find out how the engine performs during warm up.
It will change almost per second and the way it does will also change during the break in of the engine.

So to much choke and the engine gets to little fuel and to much choke and the mixture is to rich and the chike valve blocks the airflow through the carb.

This will give you a basic idea of how a carb works.

Have fun trying everything out and don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions.

very cool

So more choke increase the fuel mixture to rich ( richer ) and increases the vacuum ( airflow )

Good this to know


So if I lean drop my carb, which i am doing tomorrow, then i might in theory need a tad bit more choke while it idles to warm up>?

Thanks

 

[waiting for time]

very cool

So more choke increase the fuel mixture to rich ( richer ) and increases the vacuum ( airflow )

Good this to know


So if I lean drop my carb, which i am doing tomorrow, then i might in theory need a tad bit more choke while it idles to warm up>?

Thanks

More choke will slow the airflow down because you close a valve on top of the carb. And yes if you make the mixture leaner it needs more choke when cold.

There are 2 way's to lean down your mixture one with the CO screw and the other with the level in your floater bowl. You can adjust the level by bending the lip on the floater.

 

[waiting for time]

Check post 2408 figure 4-28 of the manual.

 

[IDave]

The choke pull does not affect the throttle linkage on Destin's carb. He has a large window single barrel which does not have that linkage, which would be found on the later small window carbs.

 

[destin]

yeah just the good old choke and the separate hand throttle cable

 

[whitey45]

Destin, I think a pic of you in the cruiser with a big grin is in order! I think you have inspired alot of people to take on a frame off resto and see it to the finish,for a newbie you have done a remarkable job! Now start diven the !#%&*@!# out of it ,and hopefully we will cross paths someday and I can tell you job well done! Cheers Whitey

 

[destin]

Destin, I think a pic of you in the cruiser with a big grin is in order! I think you have inspired alot of people to take on a frame off resto and see it to the finish,for a newbie you have done a remarkable job! Now start diven the !#%&*@!# out of it ,and hopefully we will cross paths someday and I can tell you job well done! Cheers Whitey

hehe Thanks man

Hopefully I made all the mistakes so everyone else can avoid them
All And all I have learned tons and I am super grateful for all your alls help

Every bit of adversity has a potential for learning something new

Hopefully get some beach mountain photos this weekend if I do not have to work

 

[destin]

checked for exhaust leaks just in case with some carb cleaner around the base of the carb and the manifolds, all seems solid

woo hoo!

 

[a.greenspan]

Question ( I`m still learning )
do all FJ`s have a separate hand throttle ?
Mine doesn`t have one only the BJ43 have this hand throttle.

Btw started the Red (after 4 weeks) today and looked how I do that
First give a shot of gas, pull the choke half (temperatures 16 celsius /degrees 60,8 in the garage ) warm it up for 20 seconds pull the choke back to 1/4 give gas and drive (outside temperatures in the evening was about 23 celsius 73 ) choke back after a half mile or so.
Cheers
Peter

 

[IDave]

Question ( I`m still learning )
do all FJ`s have a separate hand throttle ?
Mine doesn`t have one only the BJ43 have this hand throttle.

Btw started the Red (after 4 weeks) today and looked how I do that
First give a shot of gas, pull the choke half (temperatures 16 celsius /degrees 60,8 in the garage ) warm it up for 20 seconds pull the choke back to 1/4 give gas and drive (outside temperatures in the evening was about 23 celsius 73 ) choke back after a half mile or so.
Cheers
Peter

That's how I start my FJ40 (F155 engine).

Not all FJ40s had the hand throttle. They did up until about 67 when they went to the throttle linked small window carb. After that, the hand throttle was an option that went with the optional PTO winch.

 

[destin]

hooked up a t valve on the vacuum line form the manifold to the vacuum connector that hooks to the 4wd stuff

Tightened it all up and I have a pound more vacuum, and it sounds the beast

Awesome!!!

 

[dmaddox]

Keep up the good work Destin - I've been checking into the thread every so often.



-dallas

 

[destin]

Thanks man

Hey anyway you can check to be sure that the 4wd vacuum stuff does not have a vacuum leak?

I have the vacuum gauge on a splitter when connected to the 4wd business, and it pulls 19 pounds.
But does that make it certain there is no leak further down? Like potentially robbing me of power at higher rpms?

I jsut want to be certain is all, so it does not mess with the motor etc

Thanks guys!

 

[destin]

Oh and Dallas, glad you sorted your carb issues, was reading about it in your thread

 

[JohnnyC]

i've been away from your thread for quite some time it seems....looks like there was alot going on


or....better yet not going

all seems good now....stop messing around online and finish that thing already LOL


look foward to some complete shots...top on and all

 

[destin]

i've been away from your thread for quite some time it seems....looks like there was alot going on


or....better yet not going

all seems good now....stop messing around online and finish that thing already LOL


look foward to some complete shots...top on and all

haha yeah

I need to get my ass in gear and finish the small bits
Might do a beach run tomorrow, will take photos

 

[Living in the Past]

Not all FJ40s had the hand throttle. They did up until about 67 when they went to the throttle linked small window carb. After that, the hand throttle was an option that went with the optional PTO winch.

My 68 had the hand throttle when I bought it in 74. No PTO at that time. Transmission cover was not cut for the PTO control linkage. The knob did not have text reading throttle but symbol of the throttle butterfly. There is a chance I may still have the original choke and throttle cable stored away. If I can find them I will post a picture.

 

[destin]

Thanks man

Hey anyway you can check to be sure that the 4wd vacuum stuff does not have a vacuum leak?

I have the vacuum gauge on a splitter when connected to the 4wd business, and it pulls 19 pounds.
But does that make it certain there is no leak further down? Like potentially robbing me of power at higher rpms?

I jsut want to be certain is all, so it does not mess with the motor etc

Thanks guys!

Anyone have thoughts on this?

Just want to b e sure

I hear some have a vacuum of 21 pounds, want o be sure i do not have a leak and will torch my exhaust valves etc