destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

[destin]

Pull the rotor and look inside it. You will see a plastic "key" molded in it where it fits onto the notch of the distributor shaft. Depending on the rotor that key can vary from sloppy, to tight ............... as you just described, to just won't fit down on the shaft.



Yes, the voltage reading was probably correct, but totally useless. I'm not going to try to explain why, let's leave it at you had it hooked up wrong. The voltage should be at least battery voltage between the + side of the coil and ground. So take one lead of the voltmeter and attach it to the + side of the coil and take the other lead and attach it to ground. You should see around 12V if the ignition is on and the battery just started the truck.




If you are running a generator it will not be much above battery voltage until well off idle, this is the nature of the beast and one of the reasons why generators were replaced by alternators.

Test this stuff and put your voltage worries to bed.

Thanks man

Sorted out I was hooking up the volt meter incorrectly, it is putting out 13.1 at idle which seems good.

Thinking maybe vacuum leak at the carb that does not seal until it heats up?

Will see if i can reproduce this tomorrow and go from there

 

[waiting for time]

Destin,

Remember this is not a modern vehicle with a motormanagement system that adjusts everything during warm up.
A carb has its limitations especialy during warm up. It is adjusted to operate at operational temp. and can not adjust while warming up. This is where you use your choke and you have to work with it during warm up.

 

[subzali]

Destin,

I'm not very knowledgeable with the ins and outs of all what's been going on with your truck, as other folks have. But I would definitely second or third what everyone has been saying about your carburetor. Your problems do not seem to me to be bad plug wires, pinhole leaks in the fuel lines, generator not putting out enough voltage, junk in gas tank, etc. That seems to me to be grasping at straws, and making this issue seem a lot more murky and scary to deal with than it probably is. Also, you've checked your vacuum many times and that seems to be okay too. So rule all that stuff out, you've already dealt with it, so move on. It seems very likely to me that your stumbling problem has to do with the carburetor and engine being cold (and new), for instance some fuel will not stay vaporized when it's cold as it travels to the #1 and #3 cylinders; they are very far away from the carburetor, and that's just the nature of the beast. The choke is there to address things like that as best as Toyota could manage during the time period. And then the reverse is true; you will get heat soak after the engine has been running; that is what the insulator is for. You need to have all this stuff hooked up the best you can and find out if your problems go away before assuming it's everything else underneath the hood. After that, personally I would focus on the accelerator pump and other minor adjustments on your carb (ready through your manual many times to get a good feel for what the carb is doing and what parts are involved - you've already learned a ton about how to work on your truck and the carb isn't any more difficult than setting points or anything else), and making sure my timing is advancing properly as my engine needs it.

You mentioned that the PO drilled a hole into the carb and put a fitting on there to run a hose over the distributor to advance the timing, how was that supposed to be done from the factory in these early years? I would try to make it as close to the same as it was supposed to be from the factory before assuming any more faulty parts.

Sorry, but that's my two cents after reading through the past few pages...

Good luck!

 

[destin]

thanks guys

Yeah i know, I am slowly learning.

Remember , before i took this thing apart i only would change the oil on cars haha.
So I am just beginning to understand how all the systems interrelate and effect one another, so more information is ALWAYS good

Yeah you guys are correct, i believe i illuminated any chance of an electrical problem, everything seems to test out, timing is perfect, points and dwell prefect, rpms prefect.

It is either i am not letting it warm up properly, or their is a weee vacuum leak in that funky carb.
I will do a test a little later with a dry warm up.

Pull the choke half way, then let it idle for 3 minutes to warm up.
pop the choke in and see if i get any funkyness when i drive ( it is pretty warm here )

 

[cjgoode]

warn to you is 80 or 90 degrees, warm to an engine is above 150. On some of the later fj40's and jeeps I had I usually put in a manual choke so that I could keep it choked a little longer and then know it was 100% not choked.

 

[destin]

warn to you is 80 or 90 degrees, warm to an engine is above 150. On some of the later fj40's and jeeps I had I usually put in a manual choke so that I could keep it choked a little longer and then know it was 100% not choked.

point taken

 

[a.greenspan]

I will do a test a little later with a dry warm up.

Pull the choke half way, then let it idle for 3 minutes to warm up.
pop the choke in and see if i get any funkyness when i drive ( it is pretty warm here )

Destin
learn to "play" with the choke , at this temperatures you have in portland ( degrees/ celsius I always have to convert )
Fahrenheit to Celsius Converter

you can pop the choke in step by step ( half a minute 1/4 choke , 1 minute a bit less 1 1/2 minute pop the choke in, try it "play" a bit.
Cheers
Peter

 

[destin]

Destin
learn to "play" with the choke , at this temperatures you have in portland ( degrees/ celsius I always have to convert )
Fahrenheit to Celsius Converter

you can pop the choke in step by step ( half a minute 1/4 choke , 1 minute a bit less 1 1/2 minute pop the choke in, try it "play" a bit.
Cheers
Peter

yeah I think my experiment for a cold start will be pull the choke half way, let it idle for 2 minutes, push the choke in and see if things runs smoothly

 

[destin]

ok pulled the choke and let it idle for 4 minutes, and i took right off ( pushing the choke in before i did ) and it ran fine

when i start up right away though and give it any gas to smooth out the idle it cuts out, btu once warm it is all good

Do you think i might have a tiny vacuum leak? ( might be slightly too rich too, have not done the lean drop yet )

 

[a.greenspan]

General : Engine temperatur
After a cold start an engine reach its best temperatures ( rules of the thumb) depending of its volume of oil after 25 kilometers or 15,6 miles.
Before reaching its best temperatures never run your engine with high rpm!
To shorten this a bit drive your car with half rpms
Example : 3600 rpm would mean 1800 rpms
6000 rpm = 3000
Chears & best regards to your engines Gentlemen
Peter

 

[64 40 4 fun]

1964 fj40 dash

I see your name come up often in regards to your 1964 fj40 rebuild, so I am hoping that I can use your knowledge to my advantage. My first car happens to be a '64 fj40. It is not stock
(it has a Chevy 350 in it, and I just added a roll bar and the small jumpseats) but the body is in really good shape for its age and the dash and front seats are all stock - I am trying to keep the non-removeable stuff as stock as possible incase I or someone else ever wanted to put it back to stock. Anyway, I am missing a knob on my dash to the left of the transfer case shifter and as much as I have been able to find (in one really bad photo) is that I think that it is supposed to say "FD" on it? I was wondering if you happen to have a clear picture of an original 1964 dash that you could pass along to me. I have been trying to find one, but have been unsuccessful .

Thanks in advance,
Dallas

 

[destin]

I see your name come up often in regards to your 1964 fj40 rebuild, so I am hoping that I can use your knowledge to my advantage. My first car happens to be a '64 fj40. It is not stock
(it has a Chevy 350 in it, and I just added a roll bar and the small jumpseats) but the body is in really good shape for its age and the dash and front seats are all stock - I am trying to keep the non-removeable stuff as stock as possible incase I or someone else ever wanted to put it back to stock. Anyway, I am missing a knob on my dash to the left of the transfer case shifter and as much as I have been able to find (in one really bad photo) is that I think that it is supposed to say "FD" on it? I was wondering if you happen to have a clear picture of an original 1964 dash that you could pass along to me. I have been trying to find one, but have been unsuccessful .

Thanks in advance,
Dallas

Sure mine is fairly original, i can post some photos in a bit

 

[destin]

General : Engine temperatur
After a cold start an engine reach its best temperatures ( rules of the thumb) depending of its volume of oil after 25 kilometers or 15,6 miles.
Before reaching its best temperatures never run your engine with high rpm!
To shorten this a bit drive your car with half rpms
Example : 3600 rpm would mean 1800 rpms
6000 rpm = 3000
Chears & best regards to your engines Gentlemen
Peter

I am taking it easy now, warming up for 3 minutes before i take off, smooth as butter, keep the rpms low until the motor is fully heat soaked

 

[destin]

some dash shots ( I know some bits are not finished yet

under the hood

( i know i need to clean it up, reconnect the 4wd vacuum and find some proper hoses. ) Also need to put the metal gaurd under the radiator and under the battery, i will do that when i put in the new water pump down the line

also notice the crappy hose plug i fashioned for the pcv that the PO drilled into the front of the throttle body below the throttle butterfly oy

clutch master is leaking abit, need to get that fixed next

 

[IDave]

99.9% certain on my F135 I had much longer plugs, about what you see pictured on the box - maybe even longer. Thing is I remember stopping by checker on the way home one day and buying six plugs. When I removed one of my plugs to set it aside I noticed as I pulled out the new plug - it was nearly half the length.

So, I had to take one of my old plugs along with the new ones back to checker and trade them in for the correct plugs.

I don't think you are supposed to be running the short ones are you? (I could be wrong - and have not read your links yet) But by running the shorter ones you'll lose a little compression, etc...

thoughts?

-dallas

In the links Destin provided there is much discussion about the plugs. I am sure that the W16P-U plugs are the closest modern plugs to the F135 originals. Both are 3/8 inches of thread long.

I have also run W16FS-U plugs, which are 1/2 inch long.

Frankly, they both work fine.

The later 1F engines (145 and 155) use longer plugs.

 

[IDave]

I use toyota plug wire sets as sold by CDan. 90919-21017

 

[fj404life]

Dude clean that thing up will ya!? Are those leaves on the floor???
Sucks your clutch master leaked all over and ate that new paint...bound to happen sometime though.

 

[IDave]

There is a lot of finessing of the choke on my rig. I also have to use the hand throttle to have a smooth warmup.

In general, with a cool morning first startup, I follow the owner's manual and pull the choke all the way out. Give it a shot of gas with the gas pedal and pull the hand throttle out a bit.

Then, start the engine and it starts right up. But if I don't push the choke in to halfway or so immediately (as per the manual) it will soon start chugging and die.

So, once I've done that, I "feather" the choke and the hand throttle to give it a reasonable warm-up idle speed (1200rpm) with the choke set to maximize the speed for a given throttle setting.

Then, I can easily drive off within seconds.

I find the motor has the most smooth running power if I leave it choked until the temp gauge comes nearly up to, but not at, the first temp mark, which is generally fully warmed up. After that, leaving it choked will cause me to bog down on hills. I can be feathering the choke in as it warms up, but that's the general idea.

Depending on the ambient temperature, it takes a minimum of 3 but usually 4-6 miles on a cold day to get close enough to operating temperature to fully open the choke valve.

(I can shut off the hand choke without dying at a stop sign after 1 mile reliably).

Once the truck has been driven once for the day, it needs just a little choke and no hand throttle to start, and the choke isn't necessary for more than a mile or so.

Your results may vary, but I daily drive my truck year round from -20F to +90F about 4 trips a day and have had a lot of practice.

 

[destin]

I use toyota plug wire sets as sold by CDan. 90919-21017

awesome thanks

 

[destin]

Dude clean that thing up will ya!? Are those leaves on the floor???
Sucks your clutch master leaked all over and ate that new paint...bound to happen sometime though.

hehe yeah, but it is a utility truck, so it will get use

Yeha i have it parked under a mimosa tree