destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread (11 Viewers)

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Yes - otherwise the leather will get caught in that slot. You'll notice when you move the carb linkage by hand, you'll feel it get caught. The operation of the carb should be effortless and smooth. Also by straightening that little clip down there (#2) it will allow the metering needle to raise up a bit, and the plunger to squire more fuel - HOPEFULLY solving the problem.

let me know - dallas
 
Not that it is necessarily an issue, but Destin that clip at the top of the step up rod, that holds it to the counter arm, is pretty big (usually they are tiny). Is it hitting the body of carb when you hit the throttle?
 
ok before I adjusted the # 2 more straight the metal was at the top aligning the accelerator pump metal with the top of the slot between the fuel bowl and the accelerator pump, now the leather pokes above the slot and the metering rod is out for the metering check...

So just so I am clear...

1) make the metal part of the accelerator pump plunger flush with the slot between the fuel bowl and the accelerator pump? ( by adjusting the number 2 linkage )

2) how deep should that metering rod penetrate the metering check valve at the bottom at default settings? ( by bending the metering arm down or up? )

This is what I need to be checking for correct?

iDave i will look into the clip, not sure :)
 
also, the PO had installed a PCV port in the lower part of the throttle body ( below the throttle valve plate )

If i plug this with something, will it effect it if the bolt goes into the throttle body some in order to seal the whole properly? before i just put a plug into the the metal piece they had coming out...
Or should what ever plug be as flush as possible inside the throttle body?
 
thanks Dallas!! :D

looks like it was a mix of things :D

I never set the timing with the rpms correctly set to 650, set it a little advance of the stokc 7 degrees before top dead center, runs with out any stutter and idles like a champ!

Dallas is gonna talk me through the lean drop methos and work on that next. but vacuum is pulling 19 and things are looking good :)

noticed the ball bearing on the timing jumps now and then a few degrees with the light on, and he mentioned that could be fuel funkyness or maybe some sort of spark irregularity, but It will get all sorted, might go away after the lean drop :)

So excited words cannot describe, Thanks for taking the time man, and thanks for every one for sticking through with this with me :D

AWESOME!!!!!
 
fj404life said:
Tweak the timing who'd a thunk it!? ;-) Nice man...feels good to work on your own junk (when somehting actually goes right!) doesnt it!
Click to expand...

hha yeah man feels awesome, and its awesome knowing I know why s*** is doing what better know as well :)

It never occurred to me to make sure the rpms where 650 and to set the timing from there and adjust rpms idle timing back and forth until it is all purring :D

super stoked!

Need to just take care of a few more things and then take it on a proper drive to the beach and blast the motor in and change the oil :D
 
Hi Destin,

Good to see its working now.
Also nice to see there is always a group of teachers seeing you and the next one through a situation.

Have fun now and let us know how it runs.
 
waiting for time said:
Hi Destin,

Good to see its working now.
Also nice to see there is always a group of teachers seeing you and the next one through a situation.

Have fun now and let us know how it runs.
Click to expand...

will do man :D

Another shout out to Dallas for guiding me through :D

Driving it tomorrow to the climbing gym, super stoked to have it out and about, even for simple trips :D
 
:beer:
 
Destin,

Good morning! I was starting to type this all out and remembered I had read it somewhere before on the site. Take a look at posting #4 - for the correct method:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/179208-first-time-lean-idle-drop-help.html

That will help you set the idle mixture correctly - and also keep you running at 650 rpm.

I am super stoked that she's getting all ironed out for you, this is really fun.

Pics of the beach please!

Later bro :-)

-dallas
 
dmaddox said:
Destin,

Good morning! I was starting to type this all out and remembered I had read it somewhere before on the site. Take a look at posting #4 - for the correct method:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/179208-first-time-lean-idle-drop-help.html

That will help you set the idle mixture correctly - and also keep you running at 650 rpm.

I am super stoked that she's getting all ironed out for you, this is really fun.

Pics of the beach please!

Later bro :-)

-dallas
Click to expand...

thanks man :)

so basically turn out/in the idle mixture screw to get the highest rpm...
The adjust the idle screw to 690...
then rinse and repeat till when you move the idle mixture screw in any direction the max rpm it will hit is 650 yeah?

I would think the air cleaner would stay on... yeah?

thanks man :D
 
Yes, you are just finding the sweet spot for the idle mixture is all. As you sit now:

1. Turn in/out the mixture screw 1/4 turn at a time to get the highest engine RPM.
2. Turn up the idle speed to 690.
3. Repeat #1.
4. Turn idle speed back down to 650.
5. Enjoy your sweet ride.
6. Post pics for dallas to drool over.

:-)

later!
 
dmaddox said:
Yes, you are just finding the sweet spot for the idle mixture is all. As you sit now:

1. Turn in/out the mixture screw 1/4 turn at a time to get the highest engine RPM.
2. Turn up the idle speed to 690.
3. Repeat #1.
4. Turn idle speed back down to 650.
5. Enjoy your sweet ride.
6. Post pics for dallas to drool over.

:-)

later!
Click to expand...

awesome :D

Thanks bro

You left the air cleaner on yeah ( FSM says to so i guess so hehe )

Will post up some beach photos as soon as I finish this project for work, maybe even later this week :D
 
quick question guys

What plug wires you guys run?
I think the mechanic put on the old wires and not the new ones I gave him... at least the new ones they are not black like i remember them being...

Also is it advisable to replace the wire from the starter to the positive screw of the coil?
The wire is probably kinda old, and I think it be smart to eliminate anything that could cause electrical irregularities...

Also notice the dist cap is not as tight as i would lie or think it should be...
And i notice the rotor kinda pops up off the lobe a bit ( like when i push on it it settles a little bit back down )

Are there any wires in the ignition switch/system I should replace just to make sure no gremlins creep up?

Thanks guys :)

ALSO

which plugs you guys running?

the 3/8 thread shorty denso plugs?
 
Last edited:
oh these are the plugs i was running at first, popped in some new cheepo ones as they got black fast before it was running crappy

Update the W16P-U plugs arrived and are installed, working great

Toyota Part #: 90098-16775
Denso Part #: W16P-U

Ordered more though :)

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