destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

99.9% certain on my F135 I had much longer plugs, about what you see pictured on the box - maybe even longer. Thing is I remember stopping by checker on the way home one day and buying six plugs. When I removed one of my plugs to set it aside I noticed as I pulled out the new plug - it was nearly half the length.

So, I had to take one of my old plugs along with the new ones back to checker and trade them in for the correct plugs.

I don't think you are supposed to be running the short ones are you? (I could be wrong - and have not read your links yet) But by running the shorter ones you'll lose a little compression, etc...

thoughts?

-dallas
 
99.9% certain on my F135 I had much longer plugs, about what you see pictured on the box - maybe even longer. Thing is I remember stopping by checker on the way home one day and buying six plugs. When I removed one of my plugs to set it aside I noticed as I pulled out the new plug - it was nearly half the length.

So, I had to take one of my old plugs along with the new ones back to checker and trade them in for the correct plugs.

I don't think you are supposed to be running the short ones are you? (I could be wrong - and have not read your links yet) But by running the shorter ones you'll lose a little compression, etc...

thoughts?

-dallas

I dunno man, But I am happy to run which ever ones are best :)
I read those threads a while back and thought they were correct plugs, but I could totally be wrong :)

I would love to here a definitive word on it if possible :D

What plug wires you guys run? Anything that will fit from the auto store?
Or the ones from SOR or CCOT ( toyota ) ?
 
What plug wires you guys run?


I got a set to fit from Pep Boys in 1998. With a lifetime replacement warranty. Every two years I go back for another free set.
 
I got a set to fit from Pep Boys in 1998. With a lifetime replacement warranty. Every two years I go back for another free set.

Serious? What keeps happening to them that they need replacing every two years? Seems like the folks at Pep Boys need to ask a few questions...
 
Yes, serious. I just like new plug wires. They work better than old plug wires...
 
ok so fired up the beast to get some icecream last night...

started up fine, gave it a rev and let it idle for a minute.

Gave it some gas to get moving and up the hill nd it was stumbling, i guess like missing, where it jsut would feel like it would die when you gave it gas... There has to be some weird electrical issue here i am thinking...

I noticed when i reved the motor the lights would get MUCH brighter and when idle it was much dimmer... maybe my generator is not producing enough energy cause my coil / distributer to not work effectively at start up? Maybe the voltage regulator? ( generator was rebuilt, but i have an electric voltage regulator hooked up, some newer type the shop gave me )

I will mess with the vechicle later this evening as i need to finish a work project today.
I guess I will let it warm up and see if the problem disappears, But is there a way to check if my theory is correct? Or am I just a mad man grasping on straws? :)

If you have any other ideas I be happy to hear them, it does not seem to be a fuel issue, but it could be... maybe air getting into the lines some where? But lately I feel like all my issues have been electrical... What would cause problems to be there when they are cold and go away once warm or running a bit?
 
If you don't need a choke starting up you probably are running a rich mixture running idlle and yes it does have an effect on pulling away with a cold engine.

If you want to check the output of your regulator you should check Volts when engine is off, should he within 12 and 13,2V
Max is 1,2V for every cell. Than run the engine check Volts idle and when reving, it should read between 12,8 and 14 Volts.

Good luck.
 
Could very well be a choke issue. Every LandCruiser I've driven needs choke on start-up until warm. Fix that first.
 
Just checked your local teperatures at portland 20 Celsius ( 20°C is equal to 68°F)
your FJ should run well without the choke within one mile.
Believe it`s the carb setting, I wrote it before it`s a bit difficile.
Cheers
Peter
 
forgotten plug wires :
Had a set from a Landcruiser part dealer* here in Germany
evil bad cracked within a year, bought them new from Toyota, that`s what I would recommend, go Toyota.

* was the last time I bought something from this part dealer!
 
Just checked your local teperatures at portland 20 Celsius ( 20°C is equal to 68°F)
your FJ should run well without the choke within one mile.
Believe it`s the carb setting, I wrote it before it`s a bit difficile.
Cheers
Peter

Peter,

You must remember the engine was just rebuild so it has to run in. It might just have a bit more internal resistance so it will have a bit more effect not having a choke. And running idle for a minute will not warm it up like driving for a mile.
 
Peter,

You must remember the engine was just rebuild so it has to run in. It might just have a bit more internal resistance so it will have a bit more effect not having a choke. And running idle for a minute will not warm it up like driving for a mile.
Ok Michael, that`s true... difficile, difficile
Old horses :D.... but some day Destins FJ will run fine ;)
Cheers
Peter
 
choke? why didn't I think of that? ;p (#2380)
 
Not only will Destind cruiser run like a new one, I also believe we all can use his tread as a reference for every person having trouble with an older FJ. It realy gives a broad perspective on a lot of issues happening during a restoration.:doh:

:cheers: and happy:steer: to you Destin.
 
ok hooked up the choke, a little better, but not much

did 2 things;

1) pulled the dist cap, and pushed down on the rotor and it when down and clicked, hmm weird.

2 )hooked up the dwell / rpm / volt meter ( hooked to the positive of the battery and the negative of the coil...
read 7 volts, that correct?

when it was up to operating temp it did run better, but I am thinking the volts are low from that reading... volt regulator misadjusted?
 
ok check the volts before the coil, ruing 13.1 ( ground and to the positive on the coil so all is good there )

Fresh points in and tuned it/ timing to 650 rpms.

Will see tomorrow if starting cold makes it disappear, might be a vacuum leak that is goign away once it warms up, we will see

Dallas is sending me a working carb in the mean time to test against that until my extra carb is rebuilt


Thanks Dallas!!!
 
1) pulled the dist cap, and pushed down on the rotor and it when down and clicked, hmm weird.

Pull the rotor and look inside it. You will see a plastic "key" molded in it where it fits onto the notch of the distributor shaft. Depending on the rotor that key can vary from sloppy, to tight ............... as you just described, to just won't fit down on the shaft. :)

2 )hooked up the dwell / rpm / volt meter ( hooked to the positive of the battery and the negative of the coil...
read 7 volts, that correct?

Yes, the voltage reading was probably correct, but totally useless. I'm not going to try to explain why, let's leave it at you had it hooked up wrong. The voltage should be at least battery voltage between the + side of the coil and ground. So take one lead of the voltmeter and attach it to the + side of the coil and take the other lead and attach it to ground. You should see around 12V if the ignition is on and the battery just started the truck.


but I am thinking the volts are low from that reading... volt regulator misadjusted?

If you are running a generator it will not be much above battery voltage until well off idle, this is the nature of the beast and one of the reasons why generators were replaced by alternators.

Test this stuff and put your voltage worries to bed. ;)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom