Dent Removal Using Stud Welder

[1973Guppie]

Hi,

I have a HF stud welder and am planning on pulling a nasty dent out from the corner of my FJ55. Can anyone point me toward any good online articles or "how to" articles for using the tool to pull dents? The basics of how it work I know, but looking for more precise info on which parts of the dent to pull first, where to mount the studs, etc.

Noah

 

[Pinion]

Generally, I'd start from the outside in, but it depends on the dent. Once they are all in, its just a matter of slide hammering them out. Heat helps but not necessary.

The studs dont go on the actual crease or bend, they go on the inside..like in the middle of a crater. Pull in the direction you think caused the dent. Smooth back out with a dolly and body hammer.

 

[1973Guppie]

so do I want to start from the lowest point first or the highest point? I would think that I should start from the lowest point and work my way out, in the same fashion as the dent was created? anyone know of any good online HOW TO articles on using a stud gun succesfully?

 

[cruiser88]

so do I want to start from the lowest point first or the highest point? I would think that I should start from the lowest point and work my way out, in the same fashion as the dent was created? anyone know of any good online HOW TO articles on using a stud gun succesfully?

I am sure brownbear can give a site for this, I cant remember where it is at. But for myself i start high work around into the low or just high then low. I never pull from a crease that is where i put the heat on.

 

[cruiser88]

give this one a try http://www.naxja.org/forum/archive/index.php/f-124.html

 

[brownbear]

Yah I think your right to start on the outside. It's going to take working back and forth, side to side. Slowly bring it back at the same time. Even is the word.

Also at the end, you will need to hammer and dolly it smooth. A pick hammer is used to reduce the metal. As when it got dented it stretched. So when it is brought back out there is extra metal there. So you pick it with the pick hammer where it looks bulging. Then use the dolly and hammer to smooth it out.

Think off the pick as a shrinking tool, and the hammer and dolly as a stretching tool. Every time you hit the metal with the hammer and dolly it will thin the metal more and cause it to stretch.


So start using a slide hammer bringing the metal out, then when it is almost all out, switch to a hammer and dolly. After wards a little pick on bulging spots, then more hammer etc.....


When it is almost there, hit it with a rough sanding disc(40 grit)... wipe it clean with wipe all. Then skim some bondo on it. Sand it smooth and prime it. If there is any imperfections you can use a glazing putty or a smooth finish bondo. They make ones to go over primer too.


Google auto body repair and you should get some good tips.

Also the guys on "trucks" did a good slide hammer repair the other day.

 

[1973Guppie]

thanks brownbear, appreciate the help.

so I will attach a pic so everyone knows what I am working with.

I am a bit confused cuz I was told by others as well that outside in on the dent was the best way to work it "first in, last out" BUT I was reading an auto body book last night and it said that you should pull FIRST at the deepest spot of the dent first as much of the surrounding area may just be under pressure and pop out when I start pulling some.

Also, what is someone to do when I am not able to get a dolly behind the metal? meaning I don't think I will be able to access behind the dent to hold a dolly in place. Is it just best then to get it as close as possible by pulling and then call it a day?

thanks,

noah

 

[Wildman]

Thats a nasty one, I would start at the bottom, looks the worst. You cant get a dolly or another hammer behind it at all? (not farmilar with the back corners of 55's)

Alsos just to let you know, Your going to end up with a porcupine looking thing sticking out the back of your truck If I can I have left the 'rivets' in untill I was totaly done. Take your time and be paitent and it will come out mint.

 

[Trollhole]

If it were me I'd cut it out work on it and weld it back in.

Being you have a puller I'd just pull it. Might require a lot of pulls in different areas.

 

[toddslater]

Pretty much I'm on board and second the advice that BB gave. One thing to remember, first thing you need to do is grind the whole area down to bare metal (24/36 grit). The lower section (IIRC) you won't be able to get a dolly in there, so you will need to do a pull/hammer combo manuever as your bringing it out. Slide hammer out on the stud welds and tap adjacent with flat body hammer. Get it as close to original shape..try not to pull out too much and leave yourself high spots that you'll have to tap in later. And... at that point, begin to fill with bondo using the "cheese grater" (half round bondo file) to bring it into the rough proper shape. Let the bondo set up to the point that you can lightly run the half round across it and it grates off like aged sharp provolone cheese...wait too long and it's too hard ...then you'll have a battle on your hands. Only other thing to add...is where you are able to truly/effectively use the hammer and dolly, following what BB said about the pick hammer, you can also use a shrinking hammer to unstretch the metal.

 

[Fantom]

Ideally you want to do the opposite of what caused the dent. Work backwards until you get to the main impact. Depending on the tools and dollies you have it is better to have a dent stick out and then place a dolly behind it and hammer from the outside then the other way around.

 

[jm599]

guppie, just finished same dent on mine. tried the stud gun but wasn't making much progress. even with some heat.

took the plasma and cut a rectangular hole in the inner structure corner from the inside. approximately 4 by 10 inches. then was able to beat out the large dent in a few minutes using a rounded 2x2.

this also opens things up some for rust prevention on the other side of the hinges ...save the piece and will reweld in later.

this might weaken it some but this corner doesn't seem to be a very weak spot. hopefully we'll have cage in any way

jay

 

[1973Guppie]

thanks for all the advice, appreciate it, I think I can get inside of that panel, at least on top a bit, on the bottom portion I guess I will just need to get it about as good as possible. Any other tips, appreciated. Once I am at it I will update the thread with pics. Little nervous about shaping the bondo, do you just basically eye it? and try to make it about the same as the other side? I would guess it basically has to be done by eye. Looks like I will need to get some other tools, cheese grader for the bondo, etc.

Noah

 

[too tall]

Sometimes if the dents are to deep or big it's a good idea to use the clamp which utilizes more than one stud at a time . When you use a slide hammer to try to pull a large dent you sometimes end up with a bunch of reverse craters which can be difficult to correct. When you can grab more than one stud at a time you can use slower more even pressure in your pull like with a come-a-long.

 

[bkfj40]

I had a pretty big dent like that on my 55....I ended up drilling a hole through the center, putting in a few big washers and pulling on an eye hook with a come-along.....the 55 sheetmetal is pretty heavy and doesn't really respond well to getting a light tug from a welded stud. you need some force behind it....


bk

 

[Wile E Coyote]

For the opening post request for online how-to's....http://autobodystore.com/home.shtml

Sounds, kinds funky, but even placing a deflated football behind a dent and then inflating can do wonders. The less ya have to pull out, the less you'll deform the metal (the reverse craters already described above).

 

[x factor]

I'm new to this board but not to body work (18 years body and frame repair). If you haven't already started this project I would recomend making a rectangular piece of at least 1/8" plate steel to match the inside of the ractangular raised portion where the oval hole is. On this plate drill a hole that would be offset to the left side of the oval hole and weld a nut to the back side for an eye bolt to go into. Also lightly round off the edges that will be touching the sheet metal so it won't have a tendency to dig in and want to rip the sheet metal. If you don't have a welder just put the bolt in before weasleing it into the hole. You may have to actually have to hook the front of the truck to something to keep it from sliding, but if you have a comealong or even a racthet strap hook to the eye bolt and tie off to something at he same hieght and start pulling on the eye bolt. Pay close attention to all the meltal around the area so you don't start streching the area where the plate is as well, also while light preasure is on the comealong tap around the outside edge of the dent and you should see it start to walk most of it out. This should get most of the large part of the dent out and then finish with the stud puller as previously recomended.

 

[brownbear]

one tip I can say with bondo is to not use too much in one area. You really do not want to go over 1/4 inch thick.


You may have to cut an access area too. If that happens you can do a weldless patch. Using structural glue. Which IMOP is better than welding. As if you cannot clean and paint the backside of the weld it will rust thru in little time. The backsides of welds rust very quickly. And I do not weld any areas I cannot clean and paint on the inside.

Infact I like to sandblast welds and clean with a zinc phosphate wash like POR-15 uses.