Delta VS Radius Arms (7 Viewers)

[Katsuo70]

First let me say that I have read this entire thread, taken measurements of my rig, and added that data to the Delta spreadsheet. I'm very happy with how my truck drives now with 4.6 / 4.3 caster, but I am making some changes that will necessitate removing my MAF Drop Brackets, so I'll be ordering Delta VS arms now. Hoping to get back to something close to the 4.5-ish caster I have now because I really like how it drives.

My current setup:

Dobinsons 2.5" VT Springs C97VTB 146/147
Dobinsons 2.5 degree Rubber Caster Correction Bushings
Man-A-Fre 3" or 4" Drop Brackets (Came on the rig, not sure which ones I have. The mounting bolt holes are 3.5" apart)
Dobinsons 2.5 degree rubber caster bushings PB59-503K
Delta 1" Front Spring Spacers
Delta Rear Panhard Lift Bracket 3"



My rig is pretty heavy - but I am still getting lot more than lift than you'd expect out of this so-called 2.5" lift kit.

Height Difference in front panhard mounting bolts: 5.25"
Height Difference in rear panhard mounting bolts: 3.00" (after correction with 3" Delta RPHLB)

Slee Shortbus front bumper with ComeUp winch
Rocky Road Sliders (to be replaced by Hanna Quality sliders)
Custom Rear Tube-style rear bumper with Full-length swingout with Spare Tire Mount
Rotopax Mount with 2 3G cans added to rear bumper swingout (cans empty)
Goose Gear Full drawer and Sleeping Platform (recovery equipment, spares, emergency supplies, portable compressor, tools)
Tires (Toyo Open Country R/T Trail - 35 X 12.50 X 17)
10" Subwoofer in custom enclosure - Right Rear Quarter Panel Area

I am pretty sure I need to go with the 5" (5L) Delta arms:

5" Lift = 8.8 degree loss of caster
Delta 5L Arms add back 8.9 degrees of caster to the base of 3.0
I end up with 3.1 degrees of caster - which is right in line with the factory spec.

But my question is, will I miss having 4.5+ caster like I have now? I do plan on going up to 37's fairly soon. Not sure what else I can do. I don't think they make the 6" arms any more. I guess if I wanted more caster than the 5L's provide, I could swap over my Dobinsons 2.5 degree caster bushings, but I'd prefer to go with OEM bushings. Am I thinking correctly here? Should I just take the 3.1 the 5L's give me and be happy with that?

 

[Dirty Koala]

First let me say that I have read this entire thread, taken measurements of my rig, and added that data to the Delta spreadsheet. I'm very happy with how my truck drives now with 4.6 / 4.3 caster, but I am making some changes that will necessitate removing my MAF Drop Brackets, so I'll be ordering Delta VS arms now. Hoping to get back to something close to the 4.5-ish caster I have now because I really like how it drives.

My current setup:

Dobinsons 2.5" VT Springs C97VTB 146/147
Dobinsons 2.5 degree Rubber Caster Correction Bushings
Man-A-Fre 3" or 4" Drop Brackets (Came on the rig, not sure which ones I have. The mounting bolt holes are 3.5" apart)
Dobinsons 2.5 degree rubber caster bushings PB59-503K
Delta 1" Front Spring Spacers
Delta Rear Panhard Lift Bracket 3"



My rig is pretty heavy - but I am still getting lot more than lift than you'd expect out of this so-called 2.5" lift kit.

Height Difference in front panhard mounting bolts: 5.25"
Height Difference in rear panhard mounting bolts: 3.00" (after correction with 3" Delta RPHLB)

Slee Shortbus front bumper with ComeUp winch
Rocky Road Sliders (to be replaced by Hanna Quality sliders)
Custom Rear Tube-style rear bumper with Full-length swingout with Spare Tire Mount
Rotopax Mount with 2 3G cans added to rear bumper swingout (cans empty)
Goose Gear Full drawer and Sleeping Platform (recovery equipment, spares, emergency supplies, portable compressor, tools)
Tires (Toyo Open Country R/T Trail - 35 X 12.50 X 17)
10" Subwoofer in custom enclosure - Right Rear Quarter Panel Area

I am pretty sure I need to go with the 5" (5L) Delta arms:

5" Lift = 8.8 degree loss of caster
Delta 5L Arms add back 8.9 degrees of caster to the base of 3.0
I end up with 3.1 degrees of caster - which is right in line with the factory spec.

But my question is, will I miss having 4.5+ caster like I have now? I do plan on going up to 37's fairly soon. Not sure what else I can do. I don't think they make the 6" arms any more. I guess if I wanted more caster than the 5L's provide, I could swap over my Dobinsons 2.5 degree caster bushings, but I'd prefer to go with OEM bushings. Am I thinking correctly here? Should I just take the 3.1 the 5L's give me and be happy with that?

I personally like lots of caster, and recently switched from 4 regulars to 6’s. Dave has a few sets of 6’s left but they aren’t planning on producing more. I did have to put in a DC front shaft after going to the 6’s….but the handling is superb now.

 

[Katsuo70]

I personally like lots of caster, and recently switched from 4 regulars to 6’s. Dave has a few sets of 6’s left but they aren’t planning on producing more. I did have to put in a DC front shaft after going to the 6’s….but the handling is superb now.

Thanks. I've already got a DC front (and rear) driveshaft. For a while after buying this truck, I was getting a ton of vibes and spent a good while trying to trace it. Turned out in my case to be a matter of the lateral alignment of my rear axle. After moving the rear axle over about a half inch to the right, the vibes all but went away. I still get a tiny bit at upper highway speeds, but I'm satisfied.

Are those 6's that they have just "regular" length? I don't know if they even made 6L's... I'll try to get a hold of them to find out.

 

[Delta VS]

Thanks. I've already got a DC front (and rear) driveshaft. For a while after buying this truck, I was getting a ton of vibes and spent a good while trying to trace it. Turned out in my case to be a matter of the lateral alignment of my rear axle. After moving the rear axle over about a half inch to the right, the vibes all but went away. I still get a tiny bit at upper highway speeds, but I'm satisfied.

Are those 6's that they have just "regular" length? I don't know if they even made 6L's... I'll try to get a hold of them to find out.

No 6Ls, @sleeoffroad has those

 

[Delta VS]

Just a friendly reminder all versions of these are in stock, ready to ship

 

[Idaho Savage]

You all should see Delta's facility--it is crazy tech and precision. When my knee goes out, I'm going to have Dave and company build me a new leg.

 

[ikarus]

You all should see Delta's facility--it is crazy tech and precision. When my knee goes out, I'm going to have Dave and company build me a new leg.

How much caster are you shooting for

 

[Idaho Savage]

How much caster are you shooting for

Don't know but I'm pretty sure the bushings are toast and the birfs are dry.

 

[PeterTheBeater]

I’ve tried to read thru the thread as much as I can, but I’ve got 3.5” lift and 35”. I might go 37” eventually but not at the moment.

My caster does need to be corrected (even with OME caster bushings) but I don’t remember exactly how much.

Could I run 3” LONG’s with an option of getting 37”s one day? Or should I run regular 3” and go from there if I go 37”s

@Delta VS


Thanks!

 

[efjayatee]

I’ve tried to read thru the thread as much as I can, but I’ve got 3.5” lift and 35”. I might go 37” eventually but not at the moment.

My caster does need to be corrected (even with OME caster bushings) but I don’t remember exactly how much.

Could I run 3” LONG’s with an option of getting 37”s one day? Or should I run regular 3” and go from there if I go 37”s

@Delta VS


Thanks!

Short answer is YES on either 3" or 3L". I'm running 3" on 35s and will be planning on 37s with the 3" but I'm at 2.5" lift.
I will not ever go beyond 37s but 3L is for 35s and beyond. No harm running 3L w/3.5" lift and might be better over the 3" for your set up.

 

[Delta VS]

I’ve tried to read thru the thread as much as I can, but I’ve got 3.5” lift and 35”. I might go 37” eventually but not at the moment.

My caster does need to be corrected (even with OME caster bushings) but I don’t remember exactly how much.

Could I run 3” LONG’s with an option of getting 37”s one day? Or should I run regular 3” and go from there if I go 37”s

@Delta VS


Thanks!

Absolutely no reason to shy away from L arms with 35s. We’ve been running a set of L’s on one of the shop rigs with 35s since before we started selling them, with no ill effects.

 

[PeterTheBeater]

Absolutely no reason to shy away from L arms with 35s. We’ve been running a set of L’s on one of the shop rigs with 35s since before we started selling them, with no ill effects.

placed an order! Hopefully get these ASAP before SAS9

 

[Trusty Rusty]

Running 3L arms on my 4" lift/37" tire setup...truck tracks incredibly well. Lived that white knuckle life for one long, grueling road trip back and forth to Sedona from Houston and cannot possibly express how much better life is with caster back in a happy place.

 

[Trusty Rusty]

You all should see Delta's facility--it is crazy tech and precision. When my knee goes out, I'm going to have Dave and company build me a new leg.

Think you'll go with the L version?!

 

[PeterTheBeater]

Put on the Longs and the panhard bracket. In retrospect, just pay the extra money for them to press the bushings in. I’ve spent as much money trying to press the bushings in with shty harbor freight press as I’ve spent installing the arms.

Rear bolt was a pain, but I was able to jack up one side and stretch the spring out for the bolt to come out.

However, it does seem like the bolt is 5mil too long, and I’m concerned it would wear down a notch in the spring. Is this common?

 

[Mosez]

Put on the Longs and the panhard bracket. In retrospect, just pay the extra money for them to press the bushings in. I’ve spent as much money trying to press the bushings in with shty harbor freight press as I’ve spent installing the arms.

Rear bolt was a pain, but I was able to jack up one side and stretch the spring out for the bolt to come out.

However, it does seem like the bolt is 5mil too long, and I’m concerned it would wear down a notch in the spring. Is this common?
View attachment 3944512
View attachment 3944513

I experienced a similar clearance issue and ended up inverting the bolt.

 

[PeterTheBeater]

I experienced a similar clearance issue and ended up inverting the bolt.

I was going to do that, but the spring was just too in the way. I’ve added the washer to head side of the bolt to help it.

 

[NeverFinis]

Put on the Longs and the panhard bracket. In retrospect, just pay the extra money for them to press the bushings in. I’ve spent as much money trying to press the bushings in with shty harbor freight press as I’ve spent installing the arms.

Rear bolt was a pain, but I was able to jack up one side and stretch the spring out for the bolt to come out.

However, it does seem like the bolt is 5mil too long, and I’m concerned it would wear down a notch in the spring. Is this common?
View attachment 3944512
View attachment 3944513

I reversed the bolt.

The instructions does say the following:

If you find there is contact between the bolt and your spring, it is ok to install with bolt head facing toward the front of the vehicle.

 

[Broski]

It’s a common issue
However you achieve the Clarence make sure the bolt is not rubbing on the spring.

 

[PeterTheBeater]

I reversed the bolt.

The instructions does say the following:

I though that was referring to the control arm bolt.

Here’s a weird thing that happened today. Was driving down 25-30min on a very gentle curve. Suddenly, my steering wheel started to oscillate, felt like what I’d imagine a gentle death wobble would feel like. Never had something like this happen before so I’ve immediately pulled over. Inspected all the control arm bolts and nuts, nothing moved. Drove off and it didnt happen again. Any ideas?