I like my 315s
Delta VS Radius Arms (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Delta VS
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This is not a tire or a tyre thread.
Oh hell no....that's why "nobody's" putting lift kits on their rigs and cutting the hell out of their wheel wells or pullin' their hair out to get pinion & caster angles correctedThis is not a tire or a tyre thread.
They just love running 31" tires on a 6" lift.....
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
Definitely in for a set of the L variation. Getting ready to go to 37s and this sounds like it would make it easier
Thanks for all the information hear. So based on three hours of reading this thread, I am seriously leaning toward Delta arms and delta rear pan hard bracket. Seems like many have had success with similar set ups. My 97 build started in 2007 with 106K on the clock and I added OME heavy front - medium rear springs and caster bushings, but it was never a great handling lift even after all the hype from 2006. I have added a lot of weight since that has helped like bumpers, sliders, skids, rack, fridge, dual batteries etc. I have since only added OME heavy rear springs, brake line extensions, brakes, axel seals, trunnion bearings, bump stops etc. to the suspension and a few sets of 35" tires over the years. Now I have a pronounced death wobble under heavy breaking. So I suspect it is time for new parts after 23 years on original parts and 140K on the rig. I just purchased all new tie rod ends, new adjustable front pan hard and new wheel bearings. I suspect the pan hard as the biggest culprit given the age and condition of the bushings, but want to tidy it all up so it handles like new. I have not yet determined what springs and shocks to add given my heavy loading, but want to start by fixing the handling and wobble first. Then go onto springs, shocks, 4.88s, rear control arms, and other misc. bushings etc for cash flow, since this is a toy not a daily driver so hard to justify all at once.
It seems that the 4" radius arms would be an OK option for current springs and good for future plans to solve my wobble and handling for now. I want to be at about 3-4" of lift at final droop when loaded when done. Does this seem reasonable based on the experience of those who have them?
It seems that the 4" radius arms would be an OK option for current springs and good for future plans to solve my wobble and handling for now. I want to be at about 3-4" of lift at final droop when loaded when done. Does this seem reasonable based on the experience of those who have them?
go 6" arms. you wont be sorry
I’m going through the same process right now with my cruiser. Every inch of lift looks like it’s adding close to 2 degrees of caster. I’m running J’s with a second battery and F+R bumpers. Just got my alignment checked and I’m - 2 degrees. The 2” arms add 4.5 degrees of caster and would bring me within specs. 4” arms add 8 degrees giving me too much caster. Figure out where you want to go with lift and contact Dave..He responds quickly and is very helpful
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So if you are running J's assuming it amounts to 3 to 4" lift when loaded and +2 degrees that seems right to get you back to spec. However if you have some caster correction now, shouldn't you assume it would be stock caster at say 3 degrees since this will be removed prior to installing delta arms. Basically just assume you just added a lift and need caster correction for a 4 inch lift, wouldn't you need 6 to 8 degrees to get you back to stock between 4 to 2 degrees to be in spec to correct the negative castor with lift? This seems you would need 4" delta arms to correct the -8 degrees of castor for a 4" lift.
Seems like a lot of rigs are around 3 inches of lift when loaded, but the Delta 2" or 4"arms caster are split to either side of castor correction. I am assuming I will need correction for about 6 degrees of caster with a 3" lift. That is what brought me to the questions. Theoretically 4" delta arms would be 5 degrees at 3" lift and 3 degrees for a 4 inch lift. Just looking for more opinions based on experience here, especially since Delta has a Icon three inch spring lift kit on the site and uses 4" arms. I just don't think I want the icon springs since I a heavily loaded rig and opinions here are the Icon springs are good for light unloaded rigs. Either way I'll reach out to Delta.
How it sits today.
Seems like a lot of rigs are around 3 inches of lift when loaded, but the Delta 2" or 4"arms caster are split to either side of castor correction. I am assuming I will need correction for about 6 degrees of caster with a 3" lift. That is what brought me to the questions. Theoretically 4" delta arms would be 5 degrees at 3" lift and 3 degrees for a 4 inch lift. Just looking for more opinions based on experience here, especially since Delta has a Icon three inch spring lift kit on the site and uses 4" arms. I just don't think I want the icon springs since I a heavily loaded rig and opinions here are the Icon springs are good for light unloaded rigs. Either way I'll reach out to Delta.
How it sits today.
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Seems like you did it backwards and should have had heavies rear and med up front. This done for a level 80 stance? You have no idea what kind of reading you about to get into if not following suspensions but I would suggest read and then call Dave with what you want in mind. Most are sticking to 3" because of driveline issues over that and Dave will push you to the same lift likely. Remember over correcting caster is as good if not better if you may go higher and no springs are the lift they claim, all higher once installed.
With all that said, once you make up your mind be ready to sit and wait for springs after... Especially if slinky draws you in. I can tell you Icon would not fit your needs before Dave does but they also carry Dobinson so I leaned to the 144/ 145 combo with them and also springs on back order but at least you know you have product support over the slinky in my opinion let alone an idea when you CAN even get them...
I have currently heavies rear and med front OME on mine and would tell you how it sits but not sure it helps and doubt I can even get the 4" delta arms on before the springs get here either way.
I'm a bit ahead of you on you list of things to do replacing on old 20 YO Slee/ OME setup and can tell you I hope you have deep pockets, That list your tackling will empty them quick. May have some heavy OME rears I can sell you soon while you wait I'll be lucky to get mine my end of April tho.
With all that said, once you make up your mind be ready to sit and wait for springs after... Especially if slinky draws you in. I can tell you Icon would not fit your needs before Dave does but they also carry Dobinson so I leaned to the 144/ 145 combo with them and also springs on back order but at least you know you have product support over the slinky in my opinion let alone an idea when you CAN even get them...
I have currently heavies rear and med front OME on mine and would tell you how it sits but not sure it helps and doubt I can even get the 4" delta arms on before the springs get here either way.
I'm a bit ahead of you on you list of things to do replacing on old 20 YO Slee/ OME setup and can tell you I hope you have deep pockets, That list your tackling will empty them quick. May have some heavy OME rears I can sell you soon while you wait
I'll be lucky to get mine my end of April tho.
I already upgraded to heavy OME in back about 10 years ago. But thanks for the offer. I started with OME 2850 heavy front and OME 2860 med rears in 2008 from Slees recommendations and quickly added the OME 2863 heavy rear springs when I added the rear bumper, swing out, gas cans, water cans, roof rack, tools etc. I may be a bit higher in the front if you are running medium OME fronts. Been reading the rabbit hole hear for 15 years now and have put over $15K of parts and upgrades since I got it, so I know the rabbit hole and costs you mention. Considering leaving the existing spring shock combo for now, just wanting to address the caster while freshening up original steering parts for longevity and reliability and need opinions on Delta arm size. Just not interested in pressing in new bushings in for caster or adding plates. For the future I am also leaning dobinsons 3" tapered to avoid DC drive shaft, and other vibrations with larger lifts.
Funny thing is this current set up has been fine except for caster and a bit of wander on freeways but not horrible, just minor rubbing of tires at stuff or bottoming at speed in deep dips when fully loaded. Gearing would be nice but not necessary. Its never been a speed demon from the start but the gears would be nice for crawling when locked.
Funny thing is this current set up has been fine except for caster and a bit of wander on freeways but not horrible, just minor rubbing of tires at stuff or bottoming at speed in deep dips when fully loaded. Gearing would be nice but not necessary. Its never been a speed demon from the start but the gears would be nice for crawling when locked.
Nice, sounds like you have been doing your homework then. Beware tho the 144/145 sound like they run closer to 4". I don't get why others here go with the other Dobinson springs but guessing this is why. Just a total guess and relying on what others report but one of the reasons we decided the 4" delta arms. I know most don't get it and think I'm crazy but if the 144/145 IS closer to 4" I'm tempted to cut them down a bit and add a 1" body I already have on hand if I don't like the lift/ ride but I also just jumped to 37's, IMO 4" is too tall for 35's. and 3.5" is about spot on for TRUE 35's. My target is 4"-4.5" but not all in the way of springs. Unfortunately I felt pressured to move on something with all the spring issues from down under but sure I can live with it if a true 4" it was more than I was shooting for. If you have a year of so to buy time you may think the slinky but I don't and will not go that route until they get there ongoing problems sorted. Just my .02, especially since your likely to only be able to get a "KIT" unless upgrading the rears due to bad decision on original purchase.
The 4" arms will handle this as well as I constantly hear over Caster correction is fine and Dave will also tell you this, you just don't want the opposite.
The 4" arms will handle this as well as I constantly hear over Caster correction is fine and Dave will also tell you this, you just don't want the opposite.
Then go with the 2.5/2.0 tapered Dobinson’s with a 1” / 30mm spacer or whatever thickness you want to dial in exact desired ride height. The 3.5/3.0 version will net 4” lift alone on a rig that has bumpers and all the normal armor. With 4” lift and 4-5* positive castor angle you’ll need a DC front shaft for sure. With larger tires and 4” lift strong castor numbers are a good thing.
Be aware that the tapered coils ride better but will allow more body roll. This is probably why not everyone buys them.
iptman
SILVER Star
Just got my radius arms installed and they completely changed the driving dynamic of my 80. No more squirrelliness on the highway at all. Also recently installed the panhard bracket. Couldn't be happier. Thanks guys!
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
They are amazing aren't they! So stoked i went with the @Delta VS kit.
Totally agree. They are expensive but worth it for how great the truck drives after installing them with all the other suspension parts. The DeltaVS customer service was also pretty good. Great company
smritte
SILVER Star
OMFG...why didn't I do this sooner.
4.5 inch of actual lift, rear panhard correction, part time, 35" tire, sometimes tow a light trailer. After a short conversation with Delta VS, I decided to go with the 6" arms. Two main reasons are part time lightened up my steering considerably and towing lightens up the front end slightly.
I can feel a slight difference at low speed and freeway, it drives like my Tacoma. No more white knuckle with the freeway grooves.
Good job Delta VS.
4.5 inch of actual lift, rear panhard correction, part time, 35" tire, sometimes tow a light trailer. After a short conversation with Delta VS, I decided to go with the 6" arms. Two main reasons are part time lightened up my steering considerably and towing lightens up the front end slightly.
I can feel a slight difference at low speed and freeway, it drives like my Tacoma. No more white knuckle with the freeway grooves.
Good job Delta VS.
Can folks with the arms installed share:
- which arms and lift? 2, 4, 6”?
- did you have driveshaft vibrations requiring a CV front driveshaft.
I’ve had several 80s w various lifts. One required a CV driveshaft. Hoping to understand the effect these arms have had on the front driveshaft.
- which arms and lift? 2, 4, 6”?
- did you have driveshaft vibrations requiring a CV front driveshaft.
I’ve had several 80s w various lifts. One required a CV driveshaft. Hoping to understand the effect these arms have had on the front driveshaft.
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Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #338
I have only heard from two people who have developed driveline vibes after installing our arms. Certainly doesn't mean more people haven't experienced them, it just seems to be the exception rather than the rule.
Our arms (along with any/all other caster correcting devices except the offset trunnion bearings) will move the pinion the same amount that they move the caster, so if you have the lift installed already (as in, you know your ride height and current pinion angles) you can know exactly where your pinion angles will be after installing our arms.
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I have 4" arms with a Dobinson's 3" kit. The lift put me approximately 24" from hub center to fender in front. I needed a dc front shaft as my pinion was way off. I had a 5 degree difference between my pinion angle and my t cases angle. My pinion and driveshaft are between 1 and 2 degrees apart.
