Deka Marine Master dual-purpose battery? (1 Viewer)

[Kurosawa]

I had to use the extender that came with my @sleeoffroad Group 31 mounting kit. And still the pos was pretty snug.

@raincityrider I was able to get the Fleetrite version of the Deka battery I was after and install yesterday. I also found the Slee extensions to be uncomfortably short and didn't like the way I had to stretch everything to its limit to make it work so I flipped the extension only (not the post connection) upside down which gained at least 3/4" and it all sits really comfortably now. Prior to that the pos cable was pulling the extension down at an angle into the top of the battery but once flipped it brings the connection point down lower where the cable wants to be.

You might try the same if you are feeling like that extension isn't comfortably long enough for those center post locations. I still mounted the battery cables to the same location on the extension it just screws in from below now instead of from the top.

 

[Kurosawa]

BTW the Fleetrite branded version of the 7T31 is product number FEP7T31 for those who want to find one. Definitely worth finding a Fleetrite dealer to buy this rather than Deka or Batteries + versions since the pricing was fantastic. $127 for a severe duty/dual purpose battery with strong construction and stats! The same exact battery from Deka was $196, the difference being you can get posts from Deka and you can't from Fleetrite but $5 buys you adapters.

 

[raincityrider]

@raincityrider I was able to get the Fleetrite version of the Deka battery I was after and install yesterday. I also found the Slee extensions to be uncomfortably short and didn't like the way I had to stretch everything to its limit to make it work so I flipped the extension only (not the post connection) upside down which gained at least 3/4" and it all sits really comfortably now. Prior to that the pos cable was pulling the extension down at an angle into the top of the battery but once flipped it brings the connection point down lower where the cable wants to be.

You might try the same if you are feeling like that extension isn't comfortably long enough for those center post locations. I still mounted the battery cables to the same location on the extension it just screws in from below now instead of from the top.

Nice it was tight I will take a look.

 

[raincityrider]

BTW the Fleetrite branded version of the 7T31 is product number FEP7T31 for those who want to find one. Definitely worth finding a Fleetrite dealer to buy this rather than Deka or Batteries + versions since the pricing was fantastic. $127 for a severe duty/dual purpose battery with strong construction and stats! The same exact battery from Deka was $196, the difference being you can get posts from Deka and you can't from Fleetrite but $5 buys you adapters.

My local RMC did have the post type Fleetrite. What is you charge sitting at? Mine hovers at or below 14V. Hope I don't need an alternator.

 

[psnyman]

@raincityrider I was able to get the Fleetrite version of the Deka battery I was after and install yesterday. I also found the Slee extensions to be uncomfortably short and didn't like the way I had to stretch everything to its limit to make it work so I flipped the extension only (not the post connection) upside down which gained at least 3/4" and it all sits really comfortably now. Prior to that the pos cable was pulling the extension down at an angle into the top of the battery but once flipped it brings the connection point down lower where the cable wants to be.

You might try the same if you are feeling like that extension isn't comfortably long enough for those center post locations. I still mounted the battery cables to the same location on the extension it just screws in from below now instead of from the top.

Photos?

 

[TeCKis300]

Ordered a Deka 1131PMF via Lowes. $149 final cost with in store pickup. Not bad for a premium flooded lead acid batt.

Thx for the info. I expect no less than 7 years of service from this batt.

 

[RET2]

Ordered a Deka 1131PMF via Lowes. $149 final cost with in store pickup. Not bad for a premium flooded lead acid batt.

Thx for the info. I expect no less than 7 years of service from this batt.

That's a great deal, which Lowes?

 

[Kurosawa]

Photos?

Got back last night from 9 days in NM doing that part of the Enchanted Rockies Trail. The dual-purpose Fleetrite rebranded Deka 7T31 worked like a champ and easily kept the dual-zone 75 liter Dometic at 0 and 36 for over 12 hours with no problem. So far I don't see dual batteries as necessary for my needs, the fridge is by far the most critical of my electrical draws. Shout out to @fireball who first suggested a single battery solution to me back when I first got the truck.

I made my own tray and re-curved the OEM top retaining bar with a torch and vice. If you look closely you can see I flipped the Slee extension part but not the mil-spec post connector to make the connection more comfortable. I wish the Slee extensions were longer but this hack works well and I'm pleased.

 

[Kurosawa]

My local RMC did have the post type Fleetrite. What is you charge sitting at? Mine hovers at or below 14V. Hope I don't need an alternator.

I'm not an expert in this area by any means so I'm curious, do you see just below 14v as a problem? What would you expect it to be under healthy circumstances? I'm seeing just under 14v with the engine on and usually just under 13v after turning it off, then down to about 12.4v after 12 hours of sitting and powering my fridge overnight.

 

[psnyman]

Very neat, what piece of Victron kit are you using in the photos, thoughts?

 

[TeCKis300]

That's a great deal, which Lowes?

Isn't it? Lowe's in Poway

 

[Kurosawa]

Very neat, what piece of Victron kit are you using in the photos, thoughts?

That is a Blue Smart IP67 Charger Waterproof - Victron Energy and it works great. I have it wired to a NOCO shore power plug in the front bumper (check my build thread for pics). I really like that I can plug the truck in if I'm visiting friends for days at a time and don't want to deal with moving the solar panel around to keep the fridge going. Also great back up if you get stuck in cloudy weather all you have to do is find an outlet and you can stay parked indefinitely. It was also really pretty cheap for the convenience it brings me, great mod.

 

[BigMF]

That is a Blue Smart IP67 Charger Waterproof - Victron Energy and it works great. I have it wired to a NOCO shore power plug in the front bumper (check my build thread for pics). I really like that I can plug the truck in if I'm visiting friends for days at a time and don't want to deal with moving the solar panel around to keep the fridge going. Also great back up if you get stuck in cloudy weather all you have to do is find an outlet and you can stay parked indefinitely. It was also really pretty cheap for the convenience it brings me, great mod.

I'm thinking that what you have done may be exactly what I'm looking for:

• I need a system that will power, at a minimum, a fridge plus a few LED lights while parked.
• I would like some USB charging capacity for camera batteries, etc.
• For the most part, I'll be in the vehicle 50% of the time most days and not stationary for days on end while out on "expedition".
• I'd be happy to hook up a solar panel or two while parked and/or plugged into shore power when it's available.
• I have the Deka 1131PMF (ordered online from Lowes based on @TeCKis300 advice) already installed as a starting point.
• I carry a portable jump starter

So, to sum up, I'm looking for something that will power the Fridge/LED's and/or keep the single starting battery charged enough for starting the truck (obviously) while stationary.

Looking through your build and the info you've provided here, I think I've mostly got your system figured out below (with my addition of lights). Assuming that the diagram below is correct, my biggest question (due to my newby status) is around the power between the battery and the solar charger with the pink arrows. Does the power flow from the battery through the solar charge controller to the fuse block (and on to accessories) when the solar is not connected or providing enough power? Also, does the solar push power back to the battery to charge it when needed?

 

[Kurosawa]

I'm thinking that what you have done may be exactly what I'm looking for:

• I need a system that will power, at a minimum, a fridge plus a few LED lights while parked.
• I would like some USB charging capacity for camera batteries, etc.
• For the most part, I'll be in the vehicle 50% of the time most days and not stationary for days on end while out on "expedition".
• I'd be happy to hook up a solar panel or two while parked and/or plugged into shore power when it's available.
• I have the Deka 1131PMF (ordered online from Lowes based on @TeCKis300 advice) already installed as a starting point.
• I carry a portable jump starter

So, to sum up, I'm looking for something that will power the Fridge/LED's and/or keep the single starting battery charged enough for starting the truck (obviously) while stationary.

Looking through your build and the info you've provided here, I think I've mostly got your system figured out below (with my addition of lights). Assuming that the diagram below is correct, my biggest question (due to my newby status) is around the power between the battery and the solar charger with the pink arrows. Does the power flow from the battery through the solar charge controller to the fuse block (and on to accessories) when the solar is not connected or providing enough power? Also, does the solar push power back to the battery to charge it when needed?

First, you should know I'm no expert on this stuff and probably started from a similar place as you are when I put my system together so I would encourage others who might see this to lend their observations if they disagree with any of my explanations below.

So I think you have it laid out pretty accurately. Have a look at these two photos - the first one is how I wired it initially and utilized the load feature on the solar controller, basically the batt to SC then to Blue Sea fuse box to the loads distributed from the fuse box. This was great because I could really see what my usage was from all my added devices, the problem was it only worked for a month or so and then nothing. I troubleshot everything I could think of and decided (after reading that others had had trouble with this set up) to wire it as you see in the second picture. Now I cannot track my load usage over time using the Victron app but it has worked flawlessly otherwise. You can see the batt feed goes to the input power lugs on the fuse box and the solar controller is hard wired to those same lugs. In both these set ups the solar charges the battery when deployed and both accomplish the same ends but the way I had it wired initially and the way you describe it in your question gives you information on how much power you are using because all power is routed through the solar controller first. I wish I could say that setup was reliable but in my case and others, it didn't prove to be.

TLDR; the way I've wired it in the second photo while less informative allows for the same result power-wise and works great.

I might go the Redarc DCDC charger route were I to do it a second time, because you get all you see in my system + in one package. When I did this I also wanted to learn a little about how all this works and save a few bucks at the same time. I'm glad I did because I learned a good deal from the exercise but I see the value of the single engineered solution and don't think it's a high premium to pay. I do miss the geek factor of looking at historical power usage and presumably, that would work flawlessly with the Redarc. I would have to do some more reading up on it but these are my impressions.

Best of luck on the build

 

[BigMF]

Thanks for all the info @Kurosawa ! I have a big trip planned for this summer and I have a TON of things to do in order to be ready. Things like storage options, winch options, replace the radiator (and everything else while at it), replace the brakes and rotors, etc.

So, I think that for the short term, what I'm going to do is get a Jackery/Goal Zero power pack that I will plug into the 115 AC outlet in the back. I'll then plug the Fridge and anything needing power into the power pack. This way, when the truck is running, it'll be charging the power pack and the power will also pass through to any accessories/devices plugged into it. I can then come back later and revisit this topic with more time to really think it through with what exactly I'll need down the road.

 

[Kurosawa]

@BigMF, that sounds like a perfectly reasonable approach assuming the 115AC is up to the task and I'm sure there are others on here that have provided some background on that. I think we are all best served when things are taken somewhat incrementally so our real needs are fully understood before committing to certain mods.

I'll be looking forward to seeing how your truck comes together and reports on what works and doesn't for your type of travels.

 

[DesmoPilot]

That's what I thought too and I thought I'd have to deal with the awkward marine connection layout of the two studs/two posts to get what I needed but Deka pointed me to this Commercial Dual Purpose with even better stats and just single posts. Win-win.

The 7T31P is the one I'm going to try and the DP31CS is the one I'd replace it with if it was an emergency and I needed one in stock.

https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/wp-content/uploads/Deka-Commercial-Batteries-Flyer-0010.pdf

I picked up a 7T31P locally in Phoenix yesterday. I will install it this weekend using the Slee mount and their billet terminals. Will post up pictures when it's done.