Interstate Battery 31p-AGM7 problems (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 29, 2017
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Location
San Diego, CA
Hi all,

I need some advice on my battery set up. I have an Interstate 31p-agm7 with the Slee battery tray and connectors, and the HKB alternator voltage booster. I’ve also tried the regular HKB microblade fuse.

I use my CTEK battery charger 2xmonth as well.

This is the 4th time I’ve had to replace the battery within only 2-3 years. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to upgrade the alternator? If so, which one should I purchase? See below for pics from my battery tester and battery monitor. This is becoming a headache. I’m tempted to just go back to the stock battery!

Thanks in advance!

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Last edited:
I’d suggest going back to an SLA. It’s what the car is set up for.. there are a couple group 31 SLA that are quality made, you just have to be picky.

there are some posts about issues with the older style slee clamps, so maybe check for fit and oxidation at the clamp, too.
 
Here is what my app shows. Should it be higher?
View attachment 3861471
According to the link from Interstate:
"Standard batteries need more voltage than AGM batteries to recharge because regular batteries have higher internal resistance. To keep them from overheating, they can only take a few amps at a time at that high voltage.
This means AGM batteries need a special AGM charger. They can take a lot of amps in a short period of time — but an AGM battery charger must keep its voltage lower than 14 volts to avoid ruining the AGM battery. AGM batteries are 12 volts, like all car batteries, and can handle some higher voltage, but only up to a certain point. If a car alternator charges an AGM battery with a voltage higher than 15 volts, it can damage an AGM. It’s not likely, but voltage fluctuations are a possibility."

According to Odyssey Batteries for their AGMs:
"Q. What are the required charging voltages?"
"A. If the battery is used in a starting application, the alternator should provide between 14.2 and 14.5 volts at the battery terminals. In cycling applications, the absorb voltage should be between 14.4 and 14.8 volts, while the float setting (if applicable) should be between 13.5 and 13.8 volts."

According to Optima Batteries:
"OPTIMA YELLOWTOP® CHARGING INFORMATION
The following charging methods are recommended to ensure a long battery life. Always use a voltage-regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.
YELLOWTOP Type: D51 & D51R - D35 – DS46B24R - D75/25 - D34 – D34/78 - D27F - DH5 - DH6 - DH7
These batteries are dual-purpose. They are designed for engine start and cyclic applications and for use in vehicles with large accessory loads.
Recommended charging information:
  • Alternator:
    • 13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
  • Battery Charger:
    • 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, for approximately six to twelve hours.
  • Cyclic Applications:
    • 14.7 volts, no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below one amp, finish with two-amp constant current for one hour.
  • Rapid Recharge:
    • Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below one amp.
  • Float Charge:
    • 13.2 to 13.8 volts, one amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).
    • Strictly adhere to all limits.
OPTIMA COMMERCIAL YELLOWTOP CHARGING INFORMATION

YELLOWTOP Type: D31A & D31T

These batteries are dual-purpose. They are designed for engine start and deep-cycle applications for use in vehicles with large accessory loads.
Recommended charging information:
  • Alternator:
    • 13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
  • Battery Charger:
    • 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, for approximately six to twelve hours.
  • Cyclic Applications:
    • 14.7 volts, no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below one amp, finish with three-amp constant current for one hour.
  • Rapid Recharge:
    • Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below one amp.
  • Float Charge:
    • 13.2 to 13.8 volts, one amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).
    • Strictly adhere to all limits.

OPTIMA BLUETOP® CHARGING INFORMATION
The following charging methods are recommended to ensure a long battery life. Always use a voltage-regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.
BLUETOP Type: 34M
These batteries are designed for engine starting applications. They are NOT recommended or warranted for use in deep-cycle applications.
Recommended charging information:
  • Alternator:
    • 13.3 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
  • Battery Charger:
    • 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, for approximately six to twelve hours.
  • Rapid Recharge:
    • Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below one amp.
  • Float Charge:
    • 13.2 to 13.8 volts, one amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).
    • Strictly adhere to all limits.
BLUETOP Type: D34M / D31M/ D27M
These batteries are dual-purpose. They are designed for engine starting and deep-cycling applications, as well as for use in boats with large accessory loads.
Recommended charging information:
  • Alternator:
    • 13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
      Battery Charger:
      • 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, for approximately six to twelve hours.
  • Cyclic Applications:
    • 14.7 volts, no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below one amp, finish with two-amp constant current for one hour for D34M, and three-amp constant current for one hour for D27M and D31M.
  • Rapid Recharge:
    • Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below one amp.
  • Float Charge:
    • 13.2 to 13.8 volts, one amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).
    • Strictly adhere to all limits.

OPTIMA REDTOP® CHARGING INFORMATION
The following charging methods are recommended to ensure a long battery life. Always use a voltage-regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.
REDTOP Type: 34 & 34R - 34/78 - 78 - 25 & 35 - 75/25
These batteries are designed for engine starting applications. They are NOT recommended or warranted for use in deep-cycle applications.
Recommended charging information:
  • Alternator:
    • 13.3 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
  • Battery Charger:
    • 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, for approximately six to twelve hours.
  • Rapid Recharge:
    • Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below one amp.
  • Float Charge:
    • 13.2 to 13.8 volts, one amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).
    • Strictly adhere to all limits."
 
I've been talking about this incompatibility for years

 
Concerning operating temperature, Odyssey batteries can tolerate temperatures up to176 degrees F.

Per Consumer Reports:
“If you live in an area with extreme temperatures and are looking for a maintenance-free battery, consider getting an AGM,” Galeotafiore says. “While AGM batteries can also be affected by high heat, they tend to perform better overall than other sealed batteries in our tests.”
He adds, “We have seen that most of the AGM batteries excel in our heat-focused life testing, based on 15 weeks of continuous testing at over 160° F.”

Here's how they test:
"Battery life is measured by repeatedly discharging and recharging at a test temperature above 167° F for 15 weeks or until performance drops to unacceptable levels. This simulates the summer temperatures a battery can face in the engine bay."
 
Hi all,

I need some advice on my battery set up. I have an Interstate 31p-agm7 with the Slee battery tray and connectors, and the HKB alternator voltage booster. I’ve also tried the regular HKB microblade fuse.

I use my CTEK battery charger 2xmonth as well.

This is the 4th time I’ve had to replace the battery within only 2-3 years. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to upgrade the alternator? If so, which one should I purchase? See below for pics from my battery tester and battery monitor. This is becoming a headache. I’m tempted to just go back to the stock battery!

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 3860928
View attachment 3860926
View attachment 3860929
What is your use case? Frequent short trips? Winch? Lots of auxiliary electrical demand? Why the group 31? What was in there before the series of Interstates and did it have the same problem?
 
What is the diode voltage booster installed for?

Worth checking for a voltage drop between the battery posts and the battery cable swage. The alum. battery adapters end up with oxide layer issues.
 
What is the diode voltage booster installed for?

Worth checking for a voltage drop between the battery posts and the battery cable swage. The alum. battery adapters end up with oxide layer issues.
Oxide layer? Electrolysis type issue from dissimilar metals and current? I’m sINpuL….can you elaborate?
 
Im probably the last to opine on this, since I run the most non standard starting ‘battery’ on the board, but of the AGM vs SLA the SLA was the easier to maintain and use. Of course, it’s got SLA drawbacks, but so did the AGM, plus the AGM required secondary booster charging, voltage regulation, and it didn’t last very long for the cost.
I was also dissatisfied with SLA too, but of these choices, it’s just cheaper to run SLA.

At some point the Lithium cranking batteries will come down to normal level price and solve this problem.
 
aluminum auto oxidizes pretty much instantly in air. the oxide layer is high resistance (to demo- poke an aluminum sheet with a set of meter probes lightly then jam them in hard and read ohms on each stab).
 

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