Definitive list of AHC maintenance items (3 Viewers)

[ticoman]

Living in a developing country, it is darn hard to find a truly level spot to get baselined for AHC. I have to drive 11 kms to the nearest gas station with a concrete pad, it is fairly level. Anyway I have had this rig for about 5 months now and when I first got it the pressures were really high. I have cranked the TBs and flushed the system and am ok now but I am confused about the height sensors. When initially measuring the side to side heights, should I bottom out the sensors. I have no Idea what the PO had done to them so, where to start. The rear one is just loose and flops around till I tightened the 10mm nut. I can not find a good post about how to use them

 

[Joe Bob]

can anyone help here? i think i may have bad torsion bars. my ahc is working fine, 12+ graduations. the ride height from fender to center of hub is low by .5 inches and my front pressure is at 7.5 (high). my rears are in spec. the problem is that my driver side torsion bar is maxed (12 turns) the passenger side only has had 5 turns. I have put on Dissent Aluminum Bumper with a 12k winch and Dissent skids since it was last in spec. do i need new torsion bars? do i go aftermarket or oem?

 

[looking4lc]

can anyone help here? i think i may have bad torsion bars. my ahc is working fine, 12+ graduations. the ride height from fender to center of hub is low by .5 inches and my front pressure is at 7.5 (high). my rears are in spec. the problem is that my driver side torsion bar is maxed (12 turns) the passenger side only has had 5 turns. I have put on Dissent Aluminum Bumper with a 12k winch and Dissent skids since it was last in spec. do i need new torsion bars? do i go aftermarket or oem?View attachment 2339330

Re-indexing is what you need not new TB, you can search it here.

 

[Joe Bob]

Re-indexing is what you need not new TB, you can search it here.

awesome! thanks. I'll research that.

 

[Texicans]

My 2006 LX470 has been new to me for four weeks and I love every one of the +1,000 miles drive so far. My LX's AHC system seems to be functioning properly from what I can tell. I connected my ThinkDiag scanner to get a reading on the pressures and got 10.7 on the accumulator, 7.9 front, and 7.2 rear. So from my reading here, it looks like my pressures are high, but not necessarily surprising. An initial reservoir check shows 8 gradients of change from low to high. These are all initial readings. I will take multiple readings to get an average and/or median value. What surprised me is that the AHC fluid is well be low the Min level. In the normal mode, I would say it is at the 6th or 7th gradient mark. When moving to Low, the level climbs to the 11th gradient. When moving to High, the level drops to the 2nd or 3rd gradient mark. There was a gurgle in the fluid as it approached the bottom of the reservoir. So I don't know if the pump stopped itself. Clearly, I'm LOW on AHC fluid.

I need to go through a full assessment of all measurements, but wanted to ask here whether the AHC stops itself if the fluid level proves too low in the reservoir when moving to High? When I have time, I'll have to see if the system is leaking or seeping anywhere. My vehicle is throwing no system fault codes of any type. Also, is there a recommended source (IH8 mud sponsor?) for the AHC fluid? If the AHC wasn't performing well, I'd understand that given its age. What does surprise me is that the reservoir level is so low below the Min level. Given the service records I have from Lexus on my vehicle, I would have thought that the AHC would be tip top on fluid level, even it wasn't performing optimally. Thanks in advance.

 

[Zer0zg]

You probably have a leak somewhere, I had a couple of corroded hardlines leaking in mine when I bought my truck. I'd do a close look up and down the frame rails trying to spot a leak. The shocks themselves can also develop leaks over time.

If you're at 2 gradients at high I'd be wary of getting air into the system. I suspect the pump will self kill if it can't get the suspension to the desired height due to air in the system, and you're not there yet since it's not throwing codes, but running any hydraulic pump dry isn't great so I'd avoid High mode until you get more fluid.

I purchased my fluid from CruiserParts.net Landcruiser Parts

 

[LndXrsr]

Agree with the above, leak is definitely something to rule out. If the fluid was changed previously, it could be that it was refilled to the “proper” level on the tank when the suspension was in low instead of neutral. That would also result in a very low fluid level once in high.

The pump will suck fluid or air, whatever is at the tank outlet, so going into high while on an incline or bouncing around may introduce air until you can top off the tank.

I got my fluid from an online Toyota dealer, McGeorge I think. Get the authentic stuff only, but where from not so important.

 

[IndroCruise]

Agree with Zer0zg and LndXrsr. Obtain genuine AHC fluid quickly from nearest Lexus or Toyota dealer or other available source and top up fluid in AHC tank to correct level as soon as possible as described by LndXrsr to avoid possible air ingress. Too much fluid is not a problem so long as it is not so high as to spill out of the top when the suspension is at “LO” or on serious slopes or when the fluid expands with heat. Too little fluid begets other problems especially if the pump runs dry. Incorrect substitute fluid risks damage to valves and seals in the system and to the resin membrane which acts as a diaphragm in the ‘globes’ (also called ‘spheres’ and which the FSM calls ‘gas chambers’). Residue from damaged components then risks blockages or reduced flow and pressure losses in the various valves and hydraulic pathways throughout the system.

The correct fluid comes in different packages – see pic below -- with the different part numbers as shown on the packaging but containing the same stuff -- which on my can is said to contain mineral oil plus 2,6-Di-tert-butyl-p-cresol.

If the pump runs completely dry it will stop and have to be restarted using the “Active Test” procedure – search IH8MUD for this.

If it is suspected that air already is in the system – and as part of base-lining a recently acquired vehicle anyway -- it is recommended that the AHC system be flushed with new fluid. This is well described in multiple posts in this thread and elsewhere in IH8MUD. It is not difficult if the procedure is followed carefully. The recent post by LndXrsr -- The ABCs of AHC - How to Measure, Flush, and Adjust all in one place -- is a good starting point.

 

[spaber05]

NEED AHC HELP! Stuck in Neutral, riding high/rough in the front

Bullet points

-06 LC
-196k miles (believe many AHC components were replaced around 100k but can't remember for sure, would have to check previous owners files)
-Fresh-ish AHC fluid
-Recently replaced OEM rear springs w/ Slee spacers to accommodate weight of new drawers (within last 3 months)
-Cranked TB's after new springs to get everything within spec

TLR - AHC stuck in Neutral. Try to go into Hi/Lo and it will flash the green light at you (with N staying lit solid). Front appears to be stuck in Hi (and feels over dampened/too stiff). Rear looks likeit's sagging lower than it should. No DTC's in Techstream. Did all the active tests and all fuction. Have pulled all the fuses (both interior and under hood) and pulled battery and let sit for 10ish minutes.

Out of nowhere, my AHC is acting up. I didn't do anything out of the ordinary and my LC lives a pretty easy life so it feels odd for it to be broken. I recently replaced the rear springs with fresh OEMs as rear pressure was a bit high and I was getting drawers anyway. That went smoothly, I got the truck back and cranked the TBs a bit to bring things back to spec and was happy as a clam (this was a few months ago).

Now I've got the pre-runner squat look going on (not that extreme, any ordinary passerby might not notice it was not normal). But it rides stiffer/over dampened and has no adjustment whatsoever, just flashes the Hi-Lo light at me while the neutral stays solid and doesn't budge or anything. I tried pulling all AHC fuses and disconnecting battery but nothing there. Just plugged in Techstream and I have no DTCs and it passed all the Active Tests (I manually lowered the front a bit too).

Here's a Techstream snapshot. Obviously I couldn't get neutral pressures because it wouldn't get out of neutral.

What are my next steps? Any help would be very much appreciated because my next move is to bring it to the dealership and I'd rather do some research/legwork of my own before paying them!

Thanks in advance all,

Pete

Tagging @PADDO : I know you get nagged but I need help here! I feel I am pretty good about maintaining this system so I need input from those vastly more experienced that I am. Thank you for being an awesome resource for those of us with AHC systems to maintain.

 

[PADDO]

NEED AHC HELP! Stuck in Neutral, riding high/rough in the front

Bullet points

-06 LC
-196k miles (believe many AHC components were replaced around 100k but can't remember for sure, would have to check previous owners files)
-Fresh-ish AHC fluid
-Recently replaced OEM rear springs w/ Slee spacers to accommodate weight of new drawers (within last 3 months)
-Cranked TB's after new springs to get everything within spec

TLR - AHC stuck in Neutral. Try to go into Hi/Lo and it will flash the green light at you (with N staying lit solid). Front appears to be stuck in Hi (and feels over dampened/too stiff). Rear looks likeit's sagging lower than it should. No DTC's in Techstream. Did all the active tests and all fuction. Have pulled all the fuses (both interior and under hood) and pulled battery and let sit for 10ish minutes.

Out of nowhere, my AHC is acting up. I didn't do anything out of the ordinary and my LC lives a pretty easy life so it feels odd for it to be broken. I recently replaced the rear springs with fresh OEMs as rear pressure was a bit high and I was getting drawers anyway. That went smoothly, I got the truck back and cranked the TBs a bit to bring things back to spec and was happy as a clam (this was a few months ago).

Now I've got the pre-runner squat look going on (not that extreme, any ordinary passerby might not notice it was not normal). But it rides stiffer/over dampened and has no adjustment whatsoever, just flashes the Hi-Lo light at me while the neutral stays solid and doesn't budge or anything. I tried pulling all AHC fuses and disconnecting battery but nothing there. Just plugged in Techstream and I have no DTCs and it passed all the Active Tests (I manually lowered the front a bit too).

Here's a Techstream snapshot. Obviously I couldn't get neutral pressures because it wouldn't get out of neutral.

View attachment 2372201

What are my next steps? Any help would be very much appreciated because my next move is to bring it to the dealership and I'd rather do some research/legwork of my own before paying them!

Thanks in advance all,

Pete

Tagging @PADDO : I know you get nagged but I need help here! I feel I am pretty good about maintaining this system so I need input from those vastly more experienced that I am. Thank you for being an awesome resource for those of us with AHC systems to maintain.

Pete if your front end appears high then that is consistent with the +2.2 inch reading for the front right which makes the - 3.2 inch for the front left look pretty damn odd. I think your front left sensor is out of whack and the system has gone into fail safe. If you have manual control over the system in active test mode then when you drop to L both FR and FL should read about -1.8 inch, at N they should read about 0 and at H about 2.2 inch. There will be a little tolerance variability, in the order of +\- .2 or .3 but you shouldn’t have one sensor returning +2.2 and it’s mate returning -3.2inch . That variance is too extreme and the ECU shuts the system down.

 

[spaber05]

Pete if your front end appears high then that is consistent with the +2.2 inch reading for the front right which makes the - 3.2 inch for the front left look pretty damn odd. I think your front left sensor is out of whack and the system has gone into fail safe. If you have manual control over the system in active test mode then when you drop to L both FR and FL should read about -1.8 inch, at N they should read about 0 and at H about 2.2 inch. There will be a little tolerance variability, in the order of +\- .2 or .3 but you shouldn’t have one sensor returning +2.2 and it’s mate returning -3.2inch . That variance is too extreme and the ECU shuts the system down.

Thanks @PADDO : I did lower things a bit already so if I've somehow gone too far is that an issue? If I manage to get to 0.0 (or thereabouts) in N will things reset automatically or is there a process for that too? Nothing changed when I lowered things, it still appears to be shut down/frozen.

Secondly, what could trigger this extreme variance? My driving is mostly highway with the occasional light trailer load (a few 2X4's and plywood in a small utility trailer). Just trying to figure out what caused this all.

 

[uHu]

....Secondly, what could trigger this extreme variance? .... Just trying to figure out what caused this all.

What the man said: "your front left sensor is out of whack". (and you wouldn't get that clear answer from most dealer's master techs)
I'll translate for you: You have to find out what is wrong with your FL height sensor.
You might even se the problem by peering in behind the tire.
Problems could be:
- linkage broken or loose
- sensor arm loose
- sensor's internal failure, either worn, corroded or broken
- cable failure, either at the plug to the sensor, on top of the wheel well, or at the ECU
- diverse less likely oddities.
In other words, it's time to do some testing, examining, unplugging and measuring.

 

[GTV]

@spaber05 Did you sort this out yet? I just got my cruiser, I’m halfway across the country from home and I’ve got the same exact issue. Unfortunately I’ve got very limited tools at my my disposal, I’m hoping I can easily fix or at least band aid this problem until get home.

 

[IndroCruise]

Thanks @PADDO : I did lower things a bit already so if I've somehow gone too far is that an issue? If I manage to get to 0.0 (or thereabouts) in N will things reset automatically or is there a process for that too? Nothing changed when I lowered things, it still appears to be shut down/frozen.

Secondly, what could trigger this extreme variance? My driving is mostly highway with the occasional light trailer load (a few 2X4's and plywood in a small utility trailer). Just trying to figure out what caused this all.

Thinking about the spaber05 symptoms and questions in more detail ….

As PADDO and uHu previously have opined, the messages jumping out of the Techstream reading and experience of spaber05 and requiring attention are:

• SUDDEN onset of ‘harsh ride’ symptoms, and,
• WILDLY different Height Sensor Control readings from Techstream (or other scanner), and,
• NO PRESSURE READINGS.

The first thing that hits the eye in the Techstream output provided by spaber05 is the large difference between the Front Right Height Control Sensor (+2.2 inches) and the Front Left Height Control Sensor (-3.2 inches) – an overall difference of 5.4 inches across the front height sensors. This would suggest a huge lean. This cannot be real. As mentioned by PADDO and uHu (and the FSM) the AHC Electronic Control Unit (ECU) will prohibit the AHC system operation until this large difference is rectified. This is consistent with the symptoms observed by spaber05

What is going on?

The AHC Electronic Control Unit (ECU) determines what happens in the system – and this is the source of performance information read by Techstream or other scanner. Failures of the ECU itself do occur but are not common.

A ‘slow’ decline of AHC performance most often is associated with ‘globes’ steadily deteriorating over time – but may arise from other things such as old and deteriorating AHC fluid, or deteriorating pump, etc.

A ‘sudden’ deterioration of AHC/TEMS performance (sudden onset of ‘harsh ride’, refusal to raise or lower etc) obviously means something has happened suddenly. The cause may be associated with many things but often this means that one of the many sensors feeding the AHC ECU suddenly is sending conflicting or wrong signals.

If the ECU cannot resolve conflicting input signals, it will self-protect itself and the system and the vehicle, in effect by shutting down and/or not operating correctly until the cause is rectified. Lack of active variable damping then will give a harsh ride which may be particularly noticeable at low speeds in town. The Raise/Lower AHC function may not operate.

The cause may be a fluid blockage somewhere in the system, but a common cause is the deterioration or failure of a sensor which then feeds incorrect information to the ECU.

The front Height Control Sensors sit in the front wheel arches and arguably are in the most exposed environment of any of the many sensors in the AHC system. These two sensors are subject to sticks and stones being thrown up which may damage the adjustable linkages to the sensor or the electrical connector, and/or, spray, deep water, mud, snow, salt which may corrode and weaken the linkage leading to breakage, and/or, enter the electrical connector or the sensor itself, leading to progressive internal corrosion.

The single rear Height Control Sensor may be somewhat less exposed but it also is subject to the same underbody operating environment. In the case of spaber05 the Techstream reading looks OK (near zero) but take care -- this tells nothing about the internal condition of the sensor.

In addition, there is the expected wear and tear of continuous movement of tiny contactor brushes riding over a carbon track during every millisecond of every vertical wheel movement during vehicle operation over hundreds of thousands of kilometres or miles. The Height Control Sensors literally will ‘wear out’ eventually. Some say that the life of these sensors is about 160,000 kilometres (100,000 miles), others say much longer. The point is that if the vehicle is 15 to 20 years old, then the reliability of the Height Control Sensors is becoming questionable and at least investigation and examination and possible replacement is worthwhile as part of routine maintenance to assure ongoing reliability.

Internal deterioration of the Height Control Sensor is depicted in many IH8MUD posts and easily are found with a Search -- see some examples here . The effect will be to change the electrical resistance inside the sensor, resulting in false signals or no signal being sent by the sensor to the ECU.

Internal corrosion will be invisible and progressive – but eventually a point suddenly will be reached when no signal or a defective signal is being sent by the sensor to the ECU. The symptoms on the road – harsh ride, raise/lower function does not operate, etc – will then be experienced suddenly. So ….

• Turn wheel and visually inspect sensor linkages and electrical connectors on the vehicle – look for damage, slippage of adjusters, obvious signs of corrosion. Rectify adjustments or damage – this may involve replacing the sensors.

• Check upper electrical connection which joins the sensor to the wiring harness and feeds to the ECU – find black plug in the engine bay on the lead above the sensor (LHS sensor shown in Right Hand Drive vehicle).

• Check electrical condition of the sensor using the on-vehicle suggestion from uHu .
• Remove sensor from the vehicle (not a difficult job -- front sensors easily accessible, removal involves two attachment bolts, one linkage nut, two cable clips, one electrical connector) and check electrical condition using FSM procedure,
• Remove plastic cover from actual sensor and inspect internally, clean up and re-test,

• Decide whether to replace sensor and/or linkage for reliability.

 

[FLJ23]

Is there a newer techstream you guys are using to check ahc?
I saw a few years back guys were using a $35 techstream.
Anyone have a link to something similar? Thanks

 

[spaber05]

Thinking about the spaber05 symptoms and questions in more detail ….

As PADDO and uHu previously have opined, the messages jumping out of the Techstream reading and experience of spaber05 and requiring attention are:

• SUDDEN onset of ‘harsh ride’ symptoms, and,
• WILDLY different Height Sensor Control readings from Techstream (or other scanner), and,
• NO PRESSURE READINGS.

The first thing that hits the eye in the Techstream output provided by spaber05 is the large difference between the Front Right Height Control Sensor (+2.2 inches) and the Front Left Height Control Sensor (-3.2 inches) – an overall difference of 5.4 inches across the front height sensors. This would suggest a huge lean. This cannot be real. As mentioned by PADDO and uHu (and the FSM) the AHC Electronic Control Unit (ECU) will prohibit the AHC system operation until this large difference is rectified. This is consistent with the symptoms observed by spaber05

What is going on?

The AHC Electronic Control Unit (ECU) determines what happens in the system – and this is the source of performance information read by Techstream or other scanner. Failures of the ECU itself do occur but are not common.

A ‘slow’ decline of AHC performance most often is associated with ‘globes’ steadily deteriorating over time – but may arise from other things such as old and deteriorating AHC fluid, or deteriorating pump, etc.

A ‘sudden’ deterioration of AHC/TEMS performance (sudden onset of ‘harsh ride’, refusal to raise or lower etc) obviously means something has happened suddenly. The cause may be associated with many things but often this means that one of the many sensors feeding the AHC ECU suddenly is sending conflicting or wrong signals.

If the ECU cannot resolve conflicting input signals, it will self-protect itself and the system and the vehicle, in effect by shutting down and/or not operating correctly until the cause is rectified. Lack of active variable damping then will give a harsh ride which may be particularly noticeable at low speeds in town. The Raise/Lower AHC function may not operate.

The cause may be a fluid blockage somewhere in the system, but a common cause is the deterioration or failure of a sensor which then feeds incorrect information to the ECU.

The front Height Control Sensors sit in the front wheel arches and arguably are in the most exposed environment of any of the many sensors in the AHC system. These two sensors are subject to sticks and stones being thrown up which may damage the adjustable linkages to the sensor or the electrical connector, and/or, spray, deep water, mud, snow, salt which may corrode and weaken the linkage leading to breakage, and/or, enter the electrical connector or the sensor itself, leading to progressive internal corrosion.

The single rear Height Control Sensor may be somewhat less exposed but it also is subject to the same underbody operating environment. In the case of spaber05 the Techstream reading looks OK (near zero) but take care -- this tells nothing about the internal condition of the sensor.

In addition, there is the expected wear and tear of continuous movement of tiny contactor brushes riding over a carbon track during every millisecond of every vertical wheel movement during vehicle operation over hundreds of thousands of kilometres or miles. The Height Control Sensors literally will ‘wear out’ eventually. Some say that the life of these sensors is about 160,000 kilometres (100,000 miles), others say much longer. The point is that if the vehicle is 15 to 20 years old, then the reliability of the Height Control Sensors is becoming questionable and at least investigation and examination and possible replacement is worthwhile as part of routine maintenance to assure ongoing reliability.

Internal deterioration of the Height Control Sensor is depicted in many IH8MUD posts and easily are found with a Search -- see some examples here . The effect will be to change the electrical resistance inside the sensor, resulting in false signals or no signal being sent by the sensor to the ECU.

Internal corrosion will be invisible and progressive – but eventually a point suddenly will be reached when no signal or a defective signal is being sent by the sensor to the ECU. The symptoms on the road – harsh ride, raise/lower function does not operate, etc – will then be experienced suddenly. So ….

• Turn wheel and visually inspect sensor linkages and electrical connectors on the vehicle – look for damage, slippage of adjusters, obvious signs of corrosion. Rectify adjustments or damage – this may involve replacing the sensors.

View attachment 2377372

• Check upper electrical connection which joins the sensor to the wiring harness electrical sensor – find black plug in the engine bay on the lead above the sensor (LHS sensor shown in Right Hand Drive vehicle).

View attachment 2377376

• Check electrical condition of the sensor using the on-vehicle suggestion from uHu .
• Remove sensor from the vehicle (not a difficult job -- front sensors easily accessible, removal involves two attachment bolts, one linkage nut, two cable clips, one electrical connector) and check electrical condition using FSM procedure,
• Remove plastic cover from actual sensor and inspect internally, clean up and re-test,

View attachment 2377400

• Decide whether to replace sensor and/or linkage for reliability.

This is EXACTLY the kind of info I needed, thanks! Now I've got my marching orders so I'll jump on these things and keep those posted. I too believe that all signs point to it being a failing FL sensor but it's always good to hear someone else confirm my (and others') suspicions.

 

[spaber05]

@spaber05 Did you sort this out yet? I just got my cruiser, I’m halfway across the country from home and I’ve got the same exact issue. Unfortunately I’ve got very limited tools at my my disposal, I’m hoping I can easily fix or at least band aid this problem until get home.

Haven't had time and truck has been riding ok enough to not bother me. Now that I've got a to-do list thanks to the post below yours, I'll pick this back up and see where I end up. I'll keep everyone posted!

 

[RPLX470]

Hey everyone, thanks for this thread. Very informative. I finally got my Techstream to work on my old laptop. After fiddling with the torsion bars a bit I got the following figures:

Not sure what the height control sensor readings should be. Also, the steering angle seems way off (524 deg) as the wheels were pointing forwards.

Also, checking Trouble Codes, I got the following:

Looking for possible causes online. The AHC system works (up and down) so, not sure what this could mean.

 

[uHu]

Hey everyone, thanks for this thread. Very informative. I finally got my Techstream to work on my old laptop. After fiddling with the torsion bars a bit I got the following figures:
FR 0,6 mm
FL -3,8
RR -1,6
Not sure what the height control sensor readings should be. Also, the steering angle seems way off (524 deg) as the wheels were pointing forwards.

Also, checking Trouble Codes, I got the following:
Code C1762 - Abnormal AHC Fluid Pump Pressure
Looking for possible causes online. The AHC system works (up and down) so, not sure what this could mean.

If those sensor readings are on a flat surface, and with the same height at front left and right, you need to first check your sensors, and if OK adjust until you have the same reading L & R, approx. Check linkage for slack or binding, check smooth movement, check that the signals change smoothly over the working range. Like: is the height difference the same in Lo and Hi, both physically and in TechStream? If all OK, then adjust.

The steering sensor has to be reset. It's done in the VGRS module in TechStream. If you don't have VGRS, you have to reset the sensor by disconnecting it. What I did was to disconnect the sensor at the steering wheel, then turn on ignition without it (and ign off again), then connect sensor again and then ignition on again. Whatever the steering is at then will be zero. It might also be possible to reset by only disconnecting the battery for a while, like 15-30 mins, but I haven't confirmed that this works.
Both the TEMS and AHC parts of the system rely on the steering angle signal.

For the DTC, you shouldn't get it with those nice pressures. Might be a faulty press. sensor. I suppose you have cleared it and it comes back right away.

 

[RPLX470]

The steering sensor has to be reset. It's done in the VGRS module in TechStream. If you don't have VGRS, you have to reset the sensor by disconnecting it. What I did was to disconnect the sensor at the steering wheel, then turn on ignition without it (and ign off again), then connect sensor again and then ignition on again. Whatever the steering is at then will be zero. It might also be possible to reset by only disconnecting the battery for a while, like 15-30 mins, but I haven't confirmed that this works.
Both the TEMS and AHC parts of the system rely on the steering angle signal.

For the DTC, you shouldn't get it with those nice pressures. Might be a faulty press. sensor. I suppose you have cleared it and it comes back right away.

Hey uHu, thanks for your input. A little more help please:

Connected Techstream up with the engine running (tried with just the ignition in on position but kept getting error connection messages).

I went to reset the steering sensor with the VGRS and got to the following screen:

Where the pointer is is where I click to highlight the section and then click the orange circled eraser at the bottom to reset the steering sensor?? Right ??
Also, can you show me the connector to unplug in the steering wheel please? I don't have a clue.
Sorry, but newbie here and don't want to screw it up.

BTW, I did clear the codes, but have had no chance to drive it and see if they have come back. I will and report back.

Cheers