Definitive list of AHC maintenance items (5 Viewers)

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so my OBD cable is on the way and I plan to be getting my pressures in spec soon, ideally with a small (1") sensor lift. I've looked through a few threads and I haven't quite found a step by step guide on what to do. Here's what I have so far, would the knowledgeable folks in here let me know if this is correct? I've put some questions in line as well.

1) Park vehicle on a flat surface. Measure from fender to center cap and make sure the left and right side are the same (or close to). If not, crank the torsion bars in opposite directions until the car is even.
Q: Is this done with the vehicle off? Do I have to do this in the rear? If so, what do I adjust? Do the AHC height sensors come into play here at all?

2) Plug in OBD cable and fire up techstream. Have the vehicle in Normal height and check the pressures. Adjust both torsion bars equal amounts until pressure is in spec.
Q: do you do this right after raising it up from Low mode? Vehicle on or off?

3) after front is in spec, if rear pressure is out of spec, either replace springs with OEM, or add spacers, or add King 79 springs for added weight

Am I missing any important details?

Also, where does getting a slight lift fit into all of this? :oops:

1. Good. Should be close to 19.75” both sides. Vehicle off. Back just is what it is, nothing to adjust. Maybe drive around the block once it’s set just to make sure it’s still good but likely you won’t have to even adjust it at all to begin with.

2. Vehicle on. Go to L. Raise to N and watch pressures shift as it moves. Once it lands in N, pressures will settle. Note what they are. Do this maybe three times and get an average/consistent reading. TURN OFF TRUCK and crank bars. Repeat.

3. Yes.

Two approaches to lift: Method 1. Do the above, find rear pressures still high. Install King Springs and repeat, find rear pressures low. Raise height sensors and repeat above steps until pressures raise back to spec. Method 2. Start by raising height sensors. Then do the above three steps. Replace rear springs, add spacers, etc. as necessary.

**Read @DirtDawg AHC lift thread.**

Here is a cheat sheet I pilfered from @PADDO various posts:


PADDO says:

First, on flat ground check and adjust front cross level, you should be able to easily get in within 1/4". One turn on one torsion bar bolt will lift/lower that corner approximately 1/8". Engine doesn't need to be on for cross level check/adjustment. Wheels on the ground, if the TB bolts are really tight you can raise to H to take some preload off. Use penetrating oil liberally if they haven't been adjusted in a while. Breaker bar doesn't hurt either.

Second, measure all four corner heights at N with engine running and AHC settled. If you have 19.75F and 20.5R hub center to fender bottom you are very close to stock spec height. Adjust height sensors if necessary, engine off, to avoid potential injury.

Lastly, hook up techstream and check pressures, same number of CW turns on both TB bolts to lower pressure, one turn (on both bolts) will lower pressure about 0.2MPa (CCW to raise pressures). Target front pressure is 6.8 - 6.9MPa. All you can do for the rear pressure is to ensure you aren't physically too high and then you may need to add 30mm spacers to get the pressure down a reasonable amount or ideally, new AHC coils AND spacers to get the pressure down to the lower end of its design range of 5.6 - 6.7 MPa.

Expect a small variance in the front height sensor height values, if they fall within say 0.3" from 0 there isn't any need to tweak them. Best just to see how it all plays out. Additionally, lowering the front pressures also has a positive effect on the rear, and vice versa.

I know the FSM says to adjust pressures with full tank of gas etc etc well lately I've been adjusting pressures with the vehicle set up how I normally drive it and that's with 2nd and 3rd row seats out, 1/2 tank gas and my tool box, myself in the drivers seat. I just think it makes better sense that way. If I'm loading up for a trip I readjust TBs as necessary, it only takes a minute.




Finally, I use these numbers as my guide to predict necessary pressure adjustments:

Front:
1 turn: -0.2 MPa
1” height: +2.2 MPa

Rear:
King Springs: -3 MPa
1” height: +0.6 MPa (stock springs)
210lbs over axle: +1 MPa (stock springs)
 
1. Vehicle off. No rear adjustment yet. Drive around a bit after leveled so that suspension can resettle a bit. I skepped the driving around part the first time and had a 1/2" delta afterwards and had to readjust again.
2. Keep vehicle on. Read pressures after L ->N is complete and AHC pump has stopped.
3. If you're lucky like I was, the rear pressure will be in spec too.

I aimed for equal ride height with a tape measure in N with all pressures in spec. The result is that I have about a 1" ride height delta according to the sensors between left and right up front.
 
1. Good. Should be close to 19.75” both sides. Vehicle off. Back just is what it is, nothing to adjust. Maybe drive around the block once it’s set just to make sure it’s still good but likely you won’t have to even adjust it at all to begin with.

2. Vehicle on. Go to L. Raise to N and watch pressures shift as it moves. Once it lands in N, pressures will settle. Note what they are. Do this maybe three times and get an average/consistent reading. TURN OFF TRUCK and crank bars. Repeat.

3. Yes.

Two approaches to lift: Method 1. Do the above, find rear pressures still high. Install King Springs and repeat, find rear pressures low. Raise height sensors and repeat above steps until pressures raise back to spec. Method 2. Start by raising height sensors. Then do the above three steps. Replace rear springs, add spacers, etc. as necessary.

**Read @DirtDawg AHC lift thread.**

Here is a cheat sheet I pilfered from @PADDO various posts:


PADDO says:

First, on flat ground check and adjust front cross level, you should be able to easily get in within 1/4". One turn on one torsion bar bolt will lift/lower that corner approximately 1/8". Engine doesn't need to be on for cross level check/adjustment. Wheels on the ground, if the TB bolts are really tight you can raise to H to take some preload off. Use penetrating oil liberally if they haven't been adjusted in a while. Breaker bar doesn't hurt either.

Second, measure all four corner heights at N with engine running and AHC settled. If you have 19.75F and 20.5R hub center to fender bottom you are very close to stock spec height. Adjust height sensors if necessary, engine off, to avoid potential injury.

Lastly, hook up techstream and check pressures, same number of CW turns on both TB bolts to lower pressure, one turn (on both bolts) will lower pressure about 0.2MPa (CCW to raise pressures). Target front pressure is 6.8 - 6.9MPa. All you can do for the rear pressure is to ensure you aren't physically too high and then you may need to add 30mm spacers to get the pressure down a reasonable amount or ideally, new AHC coils AND spacers to get the pressure down to the lower end of its design range of 5.6 - 6.7 MPa.

Expect a small variance in the front height sensor height values, if they fall within say 0.3" from 0 there isn't any need to tweak them. Best just to see how it all plays out. Additionally, lowering the front pressures also has a positive effect on the rear, and vice versa.

I know the FSM says to adjust pressures with full tank of gas etc etc well lately I've been adjusting pressures with the vehicle set up how I normally drive it and that's with 2nd and 3rd row seats out, 1/2 tank gas and my tool box, myself in the drivers seat. I just think it makes better sense that way. If I'm loading up for a trip I readjust TBs as necessary, it only takes a minute.




Finally, I use these numbers as my guide to predict necessary pressure adjustments:

Front:
1 turn: -0.2 MPa
1” height: +2.2 MPa

Rear:
King Springs: -3 MPa
1” height: +0.6 MPa (stock springs)
210lbs over axle: +1 MPa (stock springs)
Do you know part number for king springs
 
Below is my one of my three pulls of data post ARB Front Bumper (no winch) installation. Overall, it doesn't look too bad. My current setup is that I have relatively new rear OEM springs, 30mm spacers, new Pleiades spheres and recent flush.

I'm planning to re-measure, double-checking FR/FL, and then put 1-turn on the TBs to make it within spec.

Planning to go for a rear bumper and aux fuel tank in the near future.


Post-ARB Pressures.png
 
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It doesn’t recognise on their site
The Home of King Springs can be found at:
Company Profile

King Springs in Australia manufacture and distribute worldwide an upgraded rear spring suitable for Lexus LX470 with AHC. The same spring is suitable for LC100 where AHC is fitted. The King KTRS-79 has a higher spring rate than the OEM springs fitted to 100 series vehicles with AHC. The purpose is to allow greater loads to be carried without overloading the AHC system and causing high AHC rear pressures and possible default to “LO” height to protect the system.

The compromise is that a slightly more firm ride is noticeable when the vehicle is empty. In my experience the ride when empty is still is acceptable. If, after fitting the KTRS-79 springs, the AHC rear pressure seems too low, then either add weight to the rear of the vehicle, or, raise the rear of the vehicle slightly (but not excessively) using the rear height adjuster.

The King Springs Part No. is KTRS-79. Searching this Part Number on a web browser will reveal several stockists in UK or USA, including eBay.

The differences in spring rates have been quoted by PADDO at this link:
Updating AHC system
 
These King heavy duty AHC springs can be found on ebay etc but the Aussie seller Sparesbox whose link I provided is where I purchased mine as they had them in stock for immediate shipment. They also sell SuperPro polyurethane 30 millimeter spring spacers now but I had already sourced mine from Slee.
 
is an alignment required if I raise the front of the vehicle less than an inch to level it?
 
Just checked out my AHC fluid which was on the minimum fill line and did the graduation check and I got around 8-9 ticks. But I still think my globes are shot, the ride is really not great at all. Whenever I hit any dip in the road the suspension throws me around bounces everywhere it feels like.
 
so my cable finally arrived today. My front pressures were about 7.8 when I started. After 6-7 cranks I'm back down to 6.9

My rear pressure is at 7.6 - I assume this means I need new springs or spacers in the back?
 
so my cable finally arrived today. My front pressures were about 7.8 when I started. After 6-7 cranks I'm back down to 6.9

My rear pressure is at 7.6 - I assume this means I need new springs or spacers in the back?
Do you have the 3rd row seats installed? If so, do they get regular use? If not, remove them and see if the pressures fall enough.
 
Do you have the 3rd row seats installed? If so, do they get regular use? If not, remove them and see if the pressures fall enough.

No rear seats but i have a roof rack and roof tent

Also had a heavy floor jack in the back when i measured

So it's probably not quite as bad as it measured but still a good ways above spec
 
Posting on this thread as well.

For those that have changed their globes with running boards still on the car, are there any tips that helped you get the process completed without resorting to booze or breaking things?

Once I have relieved the pressure in the system, can I jack up one corner at a time to help with access?
 
Hi!

I have recently imported my 287k miles lx470 from the states and spent some time on these forums trying to catch up. My ride seems “ok”, but when I do tech stream and the reservoir check they seem to be worn. The right shock and fluid was changed by a Toyota dealer in June 19 before it was put for sale.

I would appreciate if anyone could comment whether my readings calls for a replacement.
1589992798651.jpeg
Low setting

1589992718764.jpeg

normal

1589992770509.jpeg
 
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What do you mean by "worn"? How many graduations do you get when doing that test?
 

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