Definitive How To for Belt Moulding/Weatherstrip

[mongoose2231]

Yes yes there is.

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Yep, these are the ones I got from Onur as well, a couple years back.

 

[g-man]

@LCnAZ - ok, I think I have gathered all my parts to do my front door rehab. I plan to replace door regulators, the handles, add sound deadening, replace felts inside and out keeping my chrome. Thanks for the write up. Quick question- What order? I have read when I replace the regulators that I detach the window and tape it in the up position while I do that work....but what about the felts? do you replace those with the window actually removed, when rolled all the way down??? just not sure where the glass is when I am doing some of this work....

Roll the window down, remove the door card, take the two screws out of the bottom of the window and remove it from the regulator, pull it up, tilt it inward and remove it completely from the door. Don't trust tape to hold it in place. Don't pull the window out of the metal strip that is attached to the bottom of the window with urethane. Keep the metal strip attached to the glass.

doesn't matter what order. You can replace the regulator or the felts in any order.

When removing the window it helps to remove a few of the regulator screws so you can tilt the window and regulator forward and downward to get hands and eyes on the 10mm window screw that will be up in the door behind the inner door metal. Same for re install.

 

[g-man]

It's not necessary but removing the window run weatherstrip first may help you to get the window out easier. and since already have the new window run weatherstrip and are going to replace it anyway.

Keep some hand cleaner and rags near you. After getting your hands greasy handling the regulator you will want to clean them so the glass doesn't slip out of your hands.

 

[John Staton]

Roll the window down, remove the door card, take the two screws out of the bottom of the window and remove it from the regulator, pull it up, tilt it inward and remove it completely from the door. Don't trust tape to hold it in place. Don't pull the window out of the metal strip that is attached to the bottom of the window with urethane. Keep the metal strip attached to the glass.

doesn't matter what order. You can replace the regulator or the felts in any order.

When removing the window it helps to remove a few of the regulator screws so you can tilt the window and regulator forward and downward to get hands and eyes on the 10mm window screw that will be up in the door behind the inner door metal. Same for re install.

Thanks- one more. Can I reinstall the glass with the new felts installed. I guess I am picturing that it would be too fat with the metal strip on the window to pull out and put in....but maybe not.

 

[g-man]

Can I reinstall the glass with the new felts installed

Yes.

 

[LCnAZ]

@LCnAZ - ok, I think I have gathered all my parts to do my front door rehab. I plan to replace door regulators, the handles, add sound deadening, replace felts inside and out keeping my chrome. Thanks for the write up. Quick question- What order? I have read when I replace the regulators that I detach the window and tape it in the up position while I do that work....but what about the felts? do you replace those with the window actually removed, when rolled all the way down??? just not sure where the glass is when I am doing some of this work....

I can't say I know. I readied them, then delivered them to the painter who insisted on installing them (he's a body shop tech). Sorry I can't help much. I think, though, it is done rather simply as a "snap in" process without removing the glass.

 

[Spook50]

Chrome piece #68161 at the base of the window is no longer available (NLA). Not sure what "other parts" you are asking about. Maybe this diagram will help. Just shout out the # of the part you are asking.
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68170 is the part I'm trying to source now. Not sure if there's a chrome free option, but it'd be awesome if there is....

 

[g-man]

68170 is the inner felt. Its felt attached to rubber that is pressed into an aluminum track. The backside of the track has tabs that attach to the door card. NLA as far as I know.

 

[OGBeno]

Readily available in chrome.

You can also utilize 70 series iterations and manipulate to install onto 6x series and make it black vs. chrome.

Discussed many, many times already.

 

[Gavilan]

Chrome piece #68161 at the base of the window is no longer available (NLA). Not sure what "other parts" you are asking about. Maybe this diagram will help. Just shout out the # of the part you are asking.
View attachment 2191016

Gman, these are the other chrome pieces around the windows that I was referring to, I guess they aren't integrated into any weatherstripping? I was trying to go for a complete black look without chrome but it looks like that wouldn't be possible?

 

[dogfishlake]

Gman, these are the other chrome pieces around the windows that I was referring to, I guess they aren't integrated into any weatherstripping? I was trying to go for a complete black look without chrome but it looks like that wouldn't be possible?

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Those snap on the the door frame and don't have any kind of clip. They are on there pretty tight. If you use a plastic bladed scraper you can gently tap them off. There will likely be some scuff marks underneath though.

From there either leave them off if the paint underneath looks ok, or paint/powder coat the trim black and put it back on.

 

[dogfishlake]

Also it is a good time to polish the trim back to new. All of the pieces are stainless steel so they can be repaired and buffed, unlike chrome which really can only be replated.

You would need a stainless buffing kit from Eastwood or similar supplier.

 

[Gavilan]

Also it is a good time to polish the trim back to new. All of the pieces are stainless steel so they can be repaired and buffed, unlike chrome which really can only be replated.

You would need a stainless buffing kit from Eastwood or similar supplier.

Good call I appreciate the knowledgebase and suggestions. Many Thanks!

 

[Hodaddy]

Next, work on getting the new clips off the new weather strip. They hold via a little barb that slips over a little shelf of the rubber. With your tool carefully lift one edge up enough to get it over the retaining rubber shelf. Here is where there is a struggle to get the clip the rest of the way off without damaging the rubber...or slipping off and stabbing your other nearby hand (as I did mildly...once).

Position the new weatherstrip properly on the chrome belt moulding. The old rubber likely left an indelible mark that you can use to line up the new. Sliding the new clip into position is easy due to the marks you made and a bit of tried and true lubrication; saliva. Start at the slot on the ends and work your way inward. If you miss the centering a bit over the marks, you may notice it is now difficult to slide the clip. This is because the edge of the clip on the chrome side has fallen inside the slot. You'll have to remove the clip and try again. As the clip easily slides down over the rubber, you want to get its barbed edge over the small rubber shelf. Sometimes you hear a slight pop when it seats, sometimes not. But you can visually verify.

This will position the long tab on the new clips such that they "point" into the slots into which they will fit in the door. My 62 is still at the painter's, so I won't be able to pop these in for a few days. I am told by @g-man that this is done by lowering the window, then lining up and bumping them into the slots with your fist or a rubber mallet.

You end up with the completed restored assembly ready for installation.

By the way, while waiting for the parts to arrive, I spent quite a bit of time working on the bit of black plastic trim on each end of the chrome belt moulding. The years of service and sun had made mine shrink a bit and start to release from the chrome on top and underneath. Restoring this using super glue gel was tedious and time consuming. Toothpicks were the tool I needed most. I also took a nylon scouring pad with rubbing compound to polish the chrome. The final touch is restoring/conditioning the black plastic with Mother's Back to Black. As you can see, it turns out pretty nicely restored.

I'll post again with the final installation info.

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[Hodaddy]

I’m looking to rebuild outside window felt strips on my FJ62 and would like to keep the stainless belts. The odd shaped belt rubber end pieces are missing or crispy beyond salvage with Mother’s Back to Black. Are there OEM or after-market replacement belt end pieces available anywhere? This part is not apparent to me in exploded parts catalogs. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!
Hodaddy

 

[LCnAZ]

I’m looking to rebuild outside window felt strips on my FJ62 and would like to keep the stainless belts. The odd shaped belt rubber end pieces are missing or crispy beyond salvage with Mother’s Back to Black. Are there OEM or after-market replacement belt end pieces available anywhere? This part is not apparent to me in exploded parts catalogs. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!
Hodaddy

Not to my knowledge. The cap ends were always part of the assembly/part. They can be retained and new felt used, but if those black trims are gone, you may have trouble. If they are in place but in bad condition, here's an idea. Carefully clean the black pieces with alcohol to remove the Back to Black. Mask the heck out of everything but the black pieces, and spray them with black Flex Seal (light coats). I think that the Flex Seal might stabilize them a bit structurally...which just paint won't do as well. That's what I would do in your situation.

 

[Hodaddy]

Thank you for the quick reply LCnAZ! Makes total sense for restoration of remaining end pieces. Sounds like I’d need to find an original stainless metal belt strip with rubber end pieces intact to replace existing metal belt with missing rubber end piece - driver’s side left front door on my case. Likely a difficult part to find.

 

[LazarusTaxa]

I'm working on rehabbing the lower chrome window strips and felts on my cruiser. Does anyone have the part numbers for the felts themselves? I see Cruiser Corps sells it but it'd be great to add to my next parts order.

 

[g-man]

the part numbers vary based on LH (left hand) or RH (right hand) side and pre 4/86 or post 4/86.

6821090A01	WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR GLASS, OUTER	68161	FJ60 LH	1	01.1986 - 04.1986
6816090A02	WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR GLASS, OUTER	68161	FJ60 RH	1	04.1986 - 08.1987
6816090A00	WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR GLASS, OUTER	68161	FJ60 RH	1	01.1986 - 04.1986
6816090A00	WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR GLASS, OUTER	68161	BJ60,FJ60,HJ60 RH	1	08.1980 - 01.1986
6821090A02	WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR GLASS, OUTER	68161	FJ60 LH	1	04.1986 - 08.1987
6821090A01	WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT DOOR GLASS, OUTER	68161	BJ60,FJ60,HJ60 LH	1	08.1980 - 01.1986

We are talking about the outer rubber weatherstrip shown top left # 68161 this is NOT the chrome piece. partsouq and amayama shows all these as rubber pieces as Not Available

There may be a part for a 62 that fits a 60...doors here are the same. I have not researched that. I have no idea where Cruiser Parts is getting this OEM piece.

 

[g-man]

Partsouq does show the inner felt front door available #68170 in the schematic above. This piece has tabs the bend to attach to the door card and the felt contacts the inside of the window.

6817090A01	WEATHERSTRIP ASSY, FRONT DOOR GLASS, INNER	68170	FJ60..USA	2	08.1980 - 10.1981
6817090A01	WEATHERSTRIP ASSY, FRONT DOOR GLASS, INNER	68170	BJ60,FJ60,HJ60	2	10.1981 - 08.1987