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Keep in mind the body and bumper will move differently, so attaching it to both the plastic liner and the bumper may cause one of them to pop apartFinished up the rear bumper swing arms and adjusted the overall bumper position a bit. I also swapped out the old grade 8 thin washers for double thick ones. The thin ones had deformed even doubled up. Still doubled up with one thick and one thin.
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I went to put the inner fender on the passenger side and ran into an issue with the charcoal filter hose interfering with the liner. The hose from the evap canister to the charcoal filter has to be in back of the filler hose and it’s pretty tight to get it routed that way. I thought I was going to have to drop the tank but I was able to get it in there. I added a sleeve to help protect the hose where it touched the frame.
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Trimmed and install mud flap. Cut it longer this time to better protect the LRA pump and components but didn’t like how the mud flap wouldn’t lay flat.
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So I drilled and taped a 6mm hole and pined it to the bumper with SS 6mm button head.
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I got lucky drilling the hole and just missed a stiffener. I should have looked behind first.
I may need to slot the hole in the mud flap to allow relative movement between the body and the bumper wing.
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I need to look into these. I’ve had my hook attached to my lower recovery point for ages and I always hit it on approach. For Cruise Moab I strapped it around the bullbar, which worked but looks stupid. Also my hook is starting to get rusty, and even though I’m sure it’s structurally fine I’d like to do away with it for the same flying object reasonsUpgraded my Warn Spydura to Master Pull Superline and eliminated my Flatlink.
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Will be 100% metal free rigging now. If you have a Flatlink or Superhook or any other 3lb chunk of shrapnel, ditch it, no reason for it.
I slotted the mudflap on the bumper connection. I think I’ll also hit it with a heat gun to the plastic and see if it will remember where I want it to be without the screw.Keep in mind the body and bumper will move differently, so attaching it to both the plastic liner and the bumper may cause one of them to pop apart
I bet I spent 15 hours on the fricken harness. I suffer from anal retentive disease from being an engineer. But it’s plug and play and reversable. When I total this rig, I’ll save a lot of time redoing the rear bumper."...I used had different color combinations so I had to keep track of wire color transitions at spices. Theoretically simple, but practically easy to screw up."
Thanks @kcjaz I love posts, and especially sentences, like this because it highlights the level of detail/passion that people have and the struggles to attain the desired end result.
And I do love that lift. Had you poured that shop foundation knowing that you might do this someday? I have read of some foundation requirements for lifts, but I have not read further to see if there were other ways to make it happen for existing shops/foundations.
Love the attention to detail. I know I'm not the only one who learns a lot from posts like this. Thanks @kcjazI bet I spent 15 hours on the fricken harness. I suffer from anal retentive disease from being an engineer. But it’s plug and play and reversable. When I total this rig, I’ll save a lot of time redoing the rear bumper.
No, I did not think about the lift when I biult the garage/shop. But I did a 6” slab because I’m an overkill kinda guy. Turns out though, for a 10,000# lift 4” is generally enough. They really design lifts for 4” slabs with 3.5” min anchor bolt depth. More is better. I went deep down the engineer rabbit hole and did the math myself. I also have weighed my vehicles and calculated the CG so I know how to load them on the lift.![]()