Builds Deer Slayer - KCJAZ's Build/Re-Build Thread (3 Viewers)

[kcjaz]

Upgraded my Warn Spydura to Master Pull Superline and eliminated my Flatlink.

Will be 100% metal free rigging now. If you have a Flatlink or Superhook or any other 3lb chunk of shrapnel, ditch it, no reason for it.

 

[linuxgod]

Finished up the rear bumper swing arms and adjusted the overall bumper position a bit. I also swapped out the old grade 8 thin washers for double thick ones. The thin ones had deformed even doubled up. Still doubled up with one thick and one thin.
View attachment 3607473

I went to put the inner fender on the passenger side and ran into an issue with the charcoal filter hose interfering with the liner. The hose from the evap canister to the charcoal filter has to be in back of the filler hose and it’s pretty tight to get it routed that way. I thought I was going to have to drop the tank but I was able to get it in there. I added a sleeve to help protect the hose where it touched the frame.

View attachment 3607487

View attachment 3607488

View attachment 3607489

Trimmed and install mud flap. Cut it longer this time to better protect the LRA pump and components but didn’t like how the mud flap wouldn’t lay flat.
View attachment 3607490
So I drilled and taped a 6mm hole and pined it to the bumper with SS 6mm button head.

View attachment 3607491
View attachment 3607492
I got lucky drilling the hole and just missed a stiffener. I should have looked behind first.

I may need to slot the hole in the mud flap to allow relative movement between the body and the bumper wing.

View attachment 3607498

Keep in mind the body and bumper will move differently, so attaching it to both the plastic liner and the bumper may cause one of them to pop apart

 

[linuxgod]

Upgraded my Warn Spydura to Master Pull Superline and eliminated my Flatlink.
View attachment 3612525
Will be 100% metal free rigging now. If you have a Flatlink or Superhook or any other 3lb chunk of shrapnel, ditch it, no reason for it.

I need to look into these. I’ve had my hook attached to my lower recovery point for ages and I always hit it on approach. For Cruise Moab I strapped it around the bullbar, which worked but looks stupid. Also my hook is starting to get rusty, and even though I’m sure it’s structurally fine I’d like to do away with it for the same flying object reasons

 

[kcjaz]

Keep in mind the body and bumper will move differently, so attaching it to both the plastic liner and the bumper may cause one of them to pop apart

I slotted the mudflap on the bumper connection. I think I’ll also hit it with a heat gun to the plastic and see if it will remember where I want it to be without the screw.

 

[kcjaz]

One mod to rule them all!

Massive quality of life improvement.

 

[Tanaman]

Truck looks great up on a lift, super jealous!

 

[kcjaz]

Fabbed up my swingout accessory shelf tray for my Roam Box:

Next I need to work out how to attach the box. I’d like a cam latch of some kind like the ones Roam makes for their larger boxes but not at their crazy price. What I made before worked but wasn’t too convenient to remove the box. I’m going to try some short cinch straps first and if that works ok, I’ll get better, lockable security straps (the kind with steel cable in them to prevent just a knife from liberating your storage box. I wish I could find those in 2’ or even 3’ length. All I can find is 10’ or longer. If anyone has any good ideas on how to attach the box, I’m all ears.

Side note on bending aluminum: 3000 series aluminum bends ok and 6000 doesn’t (6XXX is stronger but too hard/brittle to bend well). When I made my original tray, I ordered 3003 but they gave me 6061. I realized that at the time and the metal place gave me the correct material and let me keep the 6061 as they had already cut it.

Fast forward a few years, and I’m remaking my tray and have a sheet of aluminum from before but forget it’s 6061. Took it to a friends shop and we attempt to use his finger brake and broke the brake as the 1/8” 6061 put up a fight. I then took it to a fab shop who could bend it but the 6061 cracked and broke. I then realized it wasn’t 3003. So I had them weld the broken tab back on and tack welded the others so the wouldn’t break in use.

 

[kcjaz]

Completed the road vision light harness for my Dissent bumper. I spent an insane amount of time making this harness but I’m happy with the result. It just took time figuring out the wire lengths and how the harness needed to be physically to be able to install plus the wires I used had different color combinations so I had to keep track of wire color transitions at spices. Theoretically simple, but practically easy to screw up. The new lift was very handy and it’s much better working on this kind of stuff while standing up then laying down in a creeper. I stole @linuxgod’s idea of putting the Curt 2 to 3 wire thingy in the cab by the bottle jack. I cut a notch to pass the 6 wire cable. I also added a plug to go to my license plate light. I had wires that separately. Here are some picks:

Edit: adding link reference to @linuxgod post on making the harness. Super useful. I’ll add my wiring diagrams later

RLC rear tire carrier / swing out / jerry can / custom fab bumper

It depends on what he has in his queue. We spent a month or so going back and forth on the design as I needed some modifications for mine to fit with my trailer, but from order time to the pic you see above was about 4 weeks. We'll see how everything fits with my trailer attached. I think...

forum.ih8mud.com

Pic final location for Curt box. Mounted it with Velcro behind the bottle jack.

 

[jmw101]

"...I used had different color combinations so I had to keep track of wire color transitions at spices. Theoretically simple, but practically easy to screw up."

Thanks @kcjaz I love posts, and especially sentences, like this because it highlights the level of detail/passion that people have and the struggles to attain the desired end result.

And I do love that lift. Had you poured that shop foundation knowing that you might do this someday? I have read of some foundation requirements for lifts, but I have not read further to see if there were other ways to make it happen for existing shops/foundations.

 

[kcjaz]

"...I used had different color combinations so I had to keep track of wire color transitions at spices. Theoretically simple, but practically easy to screw up."

Thanks @kcjaz I love posts, and especially sentences, like this because it highlights the level of detail/passion that people have and the struggles to attain the desired end result.

And I do love that lift. Had you poured that shop foundation knowing that you might do this someday? I have read of some foundation requirements for lifts, but I have not read further to see if there were other ways to make it happen for existing shops/foundations.

I bet I spent 15 hours on the fricken harness. I suffer from anal retentive disease from being an engineer. But it’s plug and play and reversable. When I total this rig, I’ll save a lot of time redoing the rear bumper.

No, I did not think about the lift when I biult the garage/shop. But I did a 6” slab because I’m an overkill kinda guy. Turns out though, for a 10,000# lift 4” is generally enough. They really design lifts for 4” slabs with 3.5” min anchor bolt depth. More is better. I went deep down the engineer rabbit hole and did the math myself. I also have weighed my vehicles and calculated the CG so I know how to load them on the lift.

 

[kcjaz]

Wiring diagrams:

 

[jmw101]

I bet I spent 15 hours on the fricken harness. I suffer from anal retentive disease from being an engineer. But it’s plug and play and reversable. When I total this rig, I’ll save a lot of time redoing the rear bumper.

No, I did not think about the lift when I biult the garage/shop. But I did a 6” slab because I’m an overkill kinda guy. Turns out though, for a 10,000# lift 4” is generally enough. They really design lifts for 4” slabs with 3.5” min anchor bolt depth. More is better. I went deep down the engineer rabbit hole and did the math myself. I also have weighed my vehicles and calculated the CG so I know how to load them on the lift.

Love the attention to detail. I know I'm not the only one who learns a lot from posts like this. Thanks @kcjaz

 

[kcjaz]

Doing misc odds & ends before LCDC. Installed park brake adjustment hole plugs and used my tire cradle mounted on tranny jack. Definitely a splurge on a tool but with the lift I can easily remove and reinstall a 34” tire while standing with the hub at chest level. Call me soft/lazy, I don’t care. I’m fine with that. The thing will pay for itself in avoided chiropractic bills.

 

[kcjaz]

Did spark plugs to base line new 200 as I’ve had issues before. The plugs and coils looked good and had for sure been done before. I replaced all the plugs with new anyway. I replaced #8 coil with a new one just because it’s such a PITA to get to. Especially with where I’ve mounted my winch control box. Note to self: don’t even try to get the coils out without taking the air box lid off and moving the Slee tray. I wasted an hour trying to get the coil out without doing that. If I had just done that first, it all would have gone faster. Also long pliers was the ticket to getting the plug off the coil.

I also had forgot that I bought a magnetic spark plug socket after I had the rubber part come off and stay stuck on the spark plug last time I did plugs. Happened again this time as I used a socket with the rubber insert. Then I recalled. U had the magnetic one.

 

[kcjaz]

Got the accessory tray I fabricated back from powder coat and installed.

Will use straps on the sides to cinch Roam box down and made two of these T brackets so I can lock the box to the tray.

Will take the T’s to the powder coater tomorrow.

 

[kcjaz]

Deleted the door moldings so I could install my Rhino Hide armor panels. I'm going to have a shop put a piece of color matched wrap over the holes where the moldings were. I'll likely just keep the Rhino Hide panels on most of the time. I don't love the look of all the anchor points when the panels aren't on. I don't totally love the look with the panels on either but I'm tired of the pinstripes and these panels seem pretty function and go on and off easily.

How do I remove these lower door trims?

I need to remove these trips on the door. How do I remove it? Can I simply pop it out or are there screws behind the door?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Oakleyguy]

Are those magnetic?

 

[kcjaz]

Are those magnetic?

No. The round anchor bases use 3M VHB to stick to the OEM body panels and the Rhino panels mechanically attach to the bases. They are supposed to be good for highway speeds (though they say 120 km/h which is 75 mph).

 

[kcjaz]

Removing the OEM roof rack in prep for Dissent rack install. I gotta say, I dig the look of no roof rack.

 

[kcjaz]

Had an issue with the passenger rear door Rhino Hide panel. The panel isn't quite shaped right. I made a couple videos to show the issue and sent them to Rhino Hide asking what I should do. I thought maybe I could use a heat gun to try and fix. They emailed right back and said I could try to fix it using heat or they were willing to send me a new panel for free if I pay 1/2 shipping. I appreciate there quick response and willingness to give me a new panel. I might push back on paying any shipping to replace a defective panel but, I did buy these more than a year ago and just haven't installed them until now. I'm just happy they are responsive and willing to do something.