Build Deer Slayer - KCJAZ's Build/Re-Build Thread

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You’ve got a lot of gear in your trunk. I was about 7600-# when I weighed after COTR in TN last fall. Just me and a tank of gas. Camping gear and food was maybe 100#.
Yes I do. Probably way too much. I have probably 150# in spare parts and tools. The only time I even open the Plano box I store all that stuff in during my two weeks in Colorado was to hunt for a host clamp to fix your toilet and I didn’t have the hose clamp. But if you had needed a CV, engine oil, gear oil, spark plugs, coils, any radiator hose on a 200 I’d have been there for you. I used to carry a spare alternator, but I left at home this time and replaced it with 2 1/2 gallons of water.

I need to reevaluate what all I carry. After Poughkeepsie, I’m adding tie rods, drive shaft, and UCAs…
 
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Yes I do. Probably way too much. I have probably 150# in spare parts and tools. The only time I even open the Plano box I store all that stuff in during my two weeks in Colorado was to hunt for a host clamp to fix your toilet and I didn’t have the hose clamp. But if you had needed a CV, engine oil, gear oil, spark plugs, coils, any radiator hose on a 200 I’d have been there for you. I used to carry a spare alternator, but I left at home this time and replaced it with 2 1/2 gallons of water.

I need to reevaluate what all I carry. After Poughkeepsie, I’m adding tie rods, drive shaft, and UCAs…

Is there a tipping point where being so heavy increases the odds that you need those spares? I have often thought events like COTR bringing the spares but leaving them at basecamp. Worst case scenario someone runs me back down the trail to go get them vs being heavy all the time.

🤷🏼‍♂️
 
Is there a tipping point where being so heavy increases the odds that you need those spares? I have often thought events like COTR bringing the spares but leaving them at basecamp. Worst case scenario someone runs me back down the trail to go get them vs being heavy all the time.

🤷🏼‍♂️
I think that is a good idea. I’m cleaning the camp gear and then I’ll go wash the truck. I’ll take all of the gear out and see what I weigh then. It’s just so easy to keep adding 20lb things…. When the group had issues at COTR, out come 4 or 5 700 ft-lb impacts, and any other tool you could need. Every thing except the needed tire rod…. Even in the event of a blown CV, I’d first try to get the rig down and do the work in camp.

On the other had, my son and I solo’d to COTR across Medano, did a side trip to Phoenix Park water fall and then Stony Pass to Silverton. Had we had an issue there wasn’t other rigs to rely on. The Phoenix Park trail was way harder than OnX lead us to believe (should have read the trail updates from uses before hand. Wasn’t so much “brake your truck hard” but the potential to get hung up and needed to self recover was high. My 8100 lbs did not make it easier. Still though, I didn’t need any of the stuff I carry.

Edit: link to “who’s the heaviest” thread:

Ended up at 7360 lbs w/o gear.
 
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I love my BushCo awning, but I didn’t like how it was mounted on the roof rack. I have a Dissent roof rack in the angled sides make mounting things on the sides difficult. Dissent makes some awning brackets, but they’re not heavy duty enough for the BushCo XT max. The BushCo brackets are just large L brackets that all a height adjustment but need to be fully supported by the load bars and side of the rack.

I contacted Dissent and they were willing to sell me the angle parts of their awning bracket for me to connect the BushCo L brackets which would work but when I thought about it, I realized what would be better would be to make new gussets for the BushCo brackets that included the side profile of the Dissent RR. I sketched this on paper:
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Then called a couple local laser companies. The needed a DXF file and also had $200 min order requirements.

I manually made a cardboard prototype and bought some 12 gauge steel to bandsaw and grind as pair of steel gussets. I made the steel parts at a friend’s shop and it turned out he also had Solidworks and he helped me cad the gussets. He also has access to a light duty CNC laser cutter that we used to make more cardboard prototypes to dial in the design. After we got the design finalized, we sent the DXF file to a local plasma cutter that he uses for his custom brackets who does small jobs with no minimum. I had him cut 12 gussets (double what I needed to allow for mistakes in bending the tabs). This was only $60.

Here are some pics:

Original install with BushCo brakets
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New gussets
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Mounted gussets next to Dissent awning bracket
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Test fit of gussets to BushCo L bracket
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Final fitment

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I
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Had to drill a couple holes in the Dissent rack
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All three installed
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These brackets and gussets are pretty simple, but I have a tremendous amount of time into these things. I spent hours figuring out solid works software. Hopefully that was time well invested for future things. While I have always had a respect and admiration for fabricators, I have to admit sometimes I find myself thinking the price of a manufactured part seems pretty expensive for what it is and to be honest, part of the reason I went down this path was because I didn’t like the price of the Dissent brackets. But after going through experience of designing, cading, prototyping, bending, and fitting my custom brackets, I have a better feel for all the work that goes into making a production part and understand that has to be covered in price.
 
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If you have some CAD skills, and are just interested in making small things, I did find two companies that will make things (cut, bend, coat) either plasma or laser, based on uploaded DXF files and ship them to you. OSH and Send Cut Send do this. I’m sure there are others. Here is an OSH compiled (so likely is biased) comparison:


OSH is more expensive. They both provide instant quotes. OSH was $144 for 12 pieces and SCS was $68 with free shipping.

You can get a cheap subscription for SolidWorks if you are just going to make personal stuff and not sell anything commercially. This opens up a lot of possibilities if you have CAD skills or are willing to learn. If people are willing to share (as in free) CAD files they have used for stuff they have made, it would be easily for others to have SCS (or other) make and ship parts. A pretty nichey thing for sure but potentially useful.
 
Finally got back to the awning project and actually mounted the awning. It’s a lot better than before. The zipper is no longer tucked up next to the sloped roof rack sides and being about 3” lower, I no longer have to climb up on the slider to unzip it and roll the cover back over the ends to allow the arms to roll out. It’s waaaay more sturdy than before. There is no flex in the bracket anymore. I can hang from the front arm (close to the truck, not going to try that out at the end of the arm).

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Also added back my 23 Zero “ensuite”. I added this earlier in the year but didn’t post anything about it. Didn’t use it at Cruise Moab as we were able to find pit toilets or just dig a hole most of the time. Did use it overlanding to Cruisers on the Rockies. Deploys is seconds and stows quickly too. Can be used as a shower stall too.

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Here’s is it deployed on Stoney Pass when we stopped for a couple hours by a stream for extended lunch.
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Used Dissent “low rise” brackets.
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Also added back my 23 Zero “ensuite”. I added this earlier in the year but didn’t post anything about it. Didn’t use it at Cruise Moab as we were able to find pit toilets or just dig a hole most of the time. Did use it overlanding to Cruisers on the Rockies. Deploys is seconds and stows quickly too. Can be used as a shower stall too.

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Here’s is it deployed on Stoney Pass when we stopped for a couple hours by a stream for extended lunch.View attachment 3995582

Used Dissent “low rise” brackets.
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My shower enclosure might be one of my family’s favorite mods. It gets used every time we go out. It’s great for changing in places that are otherwise off limits.
 
Went to a local club (Tornado Alley Cruisers, aka TAC) event this weekend at an off road park in SW Missouri. Fun event and all kinds of rigs. Used the awning as cover for my “swag” tent I set up on a cot:
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Worked really great. Weather was perfect with heaven dew in the mornings. The awning kept the dew off of what ever was under it.

The brackets did there job and I’m glad I made the modification of them before this trip. The awning took a beating on narrow heavenly treed trails. Scraped up one ove the arms and put a little bow in it.
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The awning still functions OK but I need to figure out a way to bend the arm straight again, ideally without having to unmount the awning.
 
How was the swag setup/ sleeping?
It’s only the 3rd time I’ve used it. I like it. In theory, you don’t need a rain fly or but if it is raining you have to have the canvas zipped up. I’ve always put a tarp over it but my bushcraft skills are a little lacking so just swing out the awing was fast and easy. I have an Exped mega mat in it with my bed roll. That part is pretty slick as everything I need to sleep is all rolled up and in a bag. Takes 5 min to set up or roll up. I may try to sleep in the truck at some point but I think the swag is better and would be more comfortable and easier in/out. I like setting it up on the cot but that isn’t necessary.
 
It’s been a minute since I’ve done anything to the 200. The end of 2025 was a bit crazy and when I got back from COTR in October, I just parked the 200 in the shop. Literally road hard and put away wet.

Sooo, now getting ready for Cruise Moab. (I didn’t get in but will show up and hang out for a while.). The first thing I noticed when I got back in the shop was oil on the floor by the drovers front wheel. Pulled the skids and found this:
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#$%$@

Not 100% the source of the leaks (looks to be both sides with driver side being pretty bad). All I had time to do last weekend was clean it up and wipe it all down. I’ll check the diff fluid level and then maybe drive it a bit to better see when the drips are coming from. I suspect it’s the diff end seals. SO, a great opportunity to learn how to remove and replace CVs. I knew this day would come. At least Im in my shop and not boonies.

Also pulled my second row in preparation of putting in a sleep /storage plate form of some kind. The 60% side is HEAVY. I thought I had it but when I cleared the door , I dropped it. Luckily, no bad happened.

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I ordered the BradHacks air bag thingys. That sure looks like the easy button compared to jacking around with little resisters and a solder gun.
 
FWIW it’s more likely the axle output seal than the cv.
Makes sense. I don’t fully understand all the seals but u r supposed to be able to pull the CVs w/o draining the front diff. That tells me that the inner and outer axle seals I have are really just meant to keep first out and grease in. If I’m leaking diff fluid, it must be something else. Need to look at some diagrams.
 
Makes sense. I don’t fully understand all the seals but u r supposed to be able to pull the CVs w/o draining the front diff. That tells me that the inner and outer axle seals I have are really just meant to keep first out and grease in. If I’m leaking diff fluid, it must be something else. Need to look at some diagrams.

Possibly but I had a bad seal, spewed gear oil all over like yours looks. A bad cv would fling grease but not oil.

There is a chance that the dif clamshell is leaking but in that case it likely wouldn’t have traveled to the CV
 
I’m running the seat belt resistors since I’ve pulled my second row out and they are awesome. So quick and easy
 
Working on the front diff leak today. Started a separate thread: (If you have any comments/input please put it in the separate thread as that is probably more helpful to the Community)


 
FWIW it’s more likely the axle output seal than the cv.
Pulling CV today. To be clear, by “axle output seal” you mean this:
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I believe there is only one seal in there that can be replaced when removing the CV. Just making sure you aren’t talking about something else.
 
I may be thinking of my 3rd gen 4runner, but the seals need to be at a certain depth, you can push them in too far and they will leak. The FSM should have the correct depth.
 
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