dead battery and locked out. options?
- Thread starter carolina_cruiser
- Start date
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Did you try scampers method?
I am interested to hear if it works.
Cheers,
Nick
I am interested to hear if it works.
Cheers,
Nick
I had a similar problem last year, except I didn't have a fob, and the only key I had with me (at the ranch - 28 mile dirt road, 50 on pavement to get to a one horse town) was in the ignition. 
Didn't want to break a window, so I used a small flat prybar to pry an opening in the rear sliding window. Used about a 6' 1g copper rod with a small "J" bent on one end to unlock the rear driver's side door while my wife cheered me on and guided me from the passerger's side. Took a few minutes, but we got in.
Easier route is the starter cable though - wish I could have done that.
Didn't want to break a window, so I used a small flat prybar to pry an opening in the rear sliding window. Used about a 6' 1g copper rod with a small "J" bent on one end to unlock the rear driver's side door while my wife cheered me on and guided me from the passerger's side. Took a few minutes, but we got in.
Easier route is the starter cable though - wish I could have done that.
rgsiii
SILVER Star
Could the fob be malfunctioning?
My thoughts exactly. Perhaps the battery in the key fob is dead.
Do none of you have AAA+???
Or the soft wedge they use to force the door?
I... okay, I'll admit this: I locked my key in the cruiser last fall (the first time I ever locked myself out of a car since my 21st birthday!
).
The wedge opened up my rig's door... why shouldn't it open any other?
Or the soft wedge they use to force the door?
I... okay, I'll admit this: I locked my key in the cruiser last fall (the first time I ever locked myself out of a car since my 21st birthday!
).The wedge opened up my rig's door... why shouldn't it open any other?
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Grench
SILVER Star
Scratched a hole in my head.
I love a good problem... What if this happened in the field. I don't have fobs for mine, but hey, its a puzzle to solve.
Connecting to the starter is a good idea... You'll have to put the DS on jack stands and pull the wheel to get to it...
Its a no go on removing the grill unless you don't mind destroying it. Two of the screws come in through the top. Once the grill is 'out of the way,' you can drill a 1/4" hole through the plastic cover on the release mechanism on the DS of it 1" from the edge. This should put you just to the PS of a plate in there. Use a screwdriver through it to push it to the DS and it will release. No, I didn't try this. I did come in from the top and push said plate over and sprung the mousetrap that releases the hood. It should work.
I traced the cable release for the hood latch from the dash through over the top of the fender, under the battery tray, through the gap behind the DS headlight and over to the release. I used a screw driver to 'close' the hood latch. In theory if you could get ahold of the cable release and weren't worried about hurting stuff... You could do it up through the DS behind the headlight from underneath. You'll need a lead weight on some nylon cord and a stick 3' long. Loop the line over the hood release cable and pull like hell and it might go. Thats what the stick is for. You're not likely to get your hand up there. Of course there are a bunch of wires there for the headlight and its hard as hell to see from underneath. It all depends on your level of desperation.
Has anyone ever tried a slim jim on the doors of an 80? I've never had to try it. How protected are the locking mechanisms? I'll have to check that out someday when I upgrade my speakers.
Then there is the final option. A big rock. Which window on a FZJ80 is the least expensive? I'm guessing the front one, but its the hardest to get through and the messiest. The ones in the doors are the easiest to change out.
So... since you're not stuck in the middle of nowhere, submit to any inquiry that the dealer requires to get a real key. Assume that your ignition has been rekeyed. Congratulations you now have a GM. One key for the door... one for the ignition... Don't turn it upside down. That would be a Chrysler.
Grench
I love a good problem... What if this happened in the field. I don't have fobs for mine, but hey, its a puzzle to solve.
Connecting to the starter is a good idea... You'll have to put the DS on jack stands and pull the wheel to get to it...
Its a no go on removing the grill unless you don't mind destroying it. Two of the screws come in through the top. Once the grill is 'out of the way,' you can drill a 1/4" hole through the plastic cover on the release mechanism on the DS of it 1" from the edge. This should put you just to the PS of a plate in there. Use a screwdriver through it to push it to the DS and it will release. No, I didn't try this. I did come in from the top and push said plate over and sprung the mousetrap that releases the hood. It should work.
I traced the cable release for the hood latch from the dash through over the top of the fender, under the battery tray, through the gap behind the DS headlight and over to the release. I used a screw driver to 'close' the hood latch. In theory if you could get ahold of the cable release and weren't worried about hurting stuff... You could do it up through the DS behind the headlight from underneath. You'll need a lead weight on some nylon cord and a stick 3' long. Loop the line over the hood release cable and pull like hell and it might go. Thats what the stick is for. You're not likely to get your hand up there. Of course there are a bunch of wires there for the headlight and its hard as hell to see from underneath. It all depends on your level of desperation.
Has anyone ever tried a slim jim on the doors of an 80? I've never had to try it. How protected are the locking mechanisms? I'll have to check that out someday when I upgrade my speakers.
Then there is the final option. A big rock. Which window on a FZJ80 is the least expensive? I'm guessing the front one, but its the hardest to get through and the messiest. The ones in the doors are the easiest to change out.
So... since you're not stuck in the middle of nowhere, submit to any inquiry that the dealer requires to get a real key. Assume that your ignition has been rekeyed. Congratulations you now have a GM. One key for the door... one for the ignition... Don't turn it upside down. That would be a Chrysler.
Grench
I can't imagine the starter cable would be that difficult to get to, although I haven't looked. You don't need a jumper cable- any 14 guage or better wire will do (hell, 18 guage might work, but you didn't hear that from me 
) since you only need to power the electronics for the door locks. You're not starting the car. You will probably get a bit dirty, but I'd take that over a trip to the dealer and whatever crazy money they want for a new VIN-cut key. You don't even technically need to get to the starter- if you can get to the wire, you could pierce the insulation and power it that way. A little liquid electrical tape should patch it up fine.
-Spike
) since you only need to power the electronics for the door locks. You're not starting the car. You will probably get a bit dirty, but I'd take that over a trip to the dealer and whatever crazy money they want for a new VIN-cut key. You don't even technically need to get to the starter- if you can get to the wire, you could pierce the insulation and power it that way. A little liquid electrical tape should patch it up fine.-Spike
That's what the soft wedge I'm talking about does.
It's used, these days, instead of the old hard metal slim jim, because it's supposed to do less potential damage to the weatherstripping, etc.
It's soft... closed cell foam, maybe?
You insert it where you used to insert the slim jim -- same way.
It popped open my FJ80 driver's door like a charm, and did no damage whatsoever.
Apparently, at least in the '92 cruiser, the locking mechanism isn't all *that* protected.
PS- Of course if you don't have a key for your doors, you need one anyway.
-Spike
-Spike
I was just thinking that.
Slim Jim and talent. Hire a car thief.
M
M
I had the key problem not working in any doors after I bought my LC 2 years ago. I never actually tried the key on the doors when I bought it , but it worked fine in the ignition when I test drove it. Well I get home after the 3 hour ride back from the seller and stop by a friends to show him. It locked just fine with the remote, but then I went to unlock it and the LED on the remote didn't work. Crap.. battery dead in it? Tried the key, didn't work in any of the 3 locks. So I called the seller and asked if he ever changed the locks. Answer was no. I then opened the remote and played with the battery which I assume wasn't making very good contact, since it worked again.
THe next day I went to the dealer and got a key cut. I compared it to the key I have and wow.. the old key was worn alot. There were alot of little teeth on the center of the key that my old one didn't really have anymore. Those notchs must be used for the door locks, because the old key didn't have notches like the new one. That cost about $10
I then went to walmart with the fresh cut key, and had 2 more made from it for $1 each
I'm betting the key is so far worn down it doesn't work in the external locks.
Side note: In an '88 4runner I had, that I shaved the door locks off (after a break in) and had remote entry, I ran 2 wires from one of the power door locks to a hidden area that I could reach if my battery ever died. Then I just touch a 9V batt. to it and unlock a door in that case.
THe next day I went to the dealer and got a key cut. I compared it to the key I have and wow.. the old key was worn alot. There were alot of little teeth on the center of the key that my old one didn't really have anymore. Those notchs must be used for the door locks, because the old key didn't have notches like the new one. That cost about $10
I then went to walmart with the fresh cut key, and had 2 more made from it for $1 each
I'm betting the key is so far worn down it doesn't work in the external locks.Side note: In an '88 4runner I had, that I shaved the door locks off (after a break in) and had remote entry, I ran 2 wires from one of the power door locks to a hidden area that I could reach if my battery ever died. Then I just touch a 9V batt. to it and unlock a door in that case.
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We used Scamper's idea on a BMW a couple of years ago, but in that instance we simply removed the tail lights and connected a good battery from there with a couple of skinny wires. The Fob worked for us, after which the rest is obvious. I'm pretty confident scamper's idea will also work for you as your only real need is to feed the alarm.
Kalawang
Kalawang
- Thread starter
- #37
Update:
Getting the key cut is a no-go for now. The phone calls I made with Toyota yesterday were around closing time for the dealer's parts dept (6 PM) and Toyota was unable to reach them to release the code. They told me to call back when the dealer's parts dept opened the following morning.
So, I call Toyota today and find out that they aren't open until Monday. The dealer is open but they have no means to get the code.
So, I am about to attempt the Scamper method...
Getting the key cut is a no-go for now. The phone calls I made with Toyota yesterday were around closing time for the dealer's parts dept (6 PM) and Toyota was unable to reach them to release the code. They told me to call back when the dealer's parts dept opened the following morning.
So, I call Toyota today and find out that they aren't open until Monday. The dealer is open but they have no means to get the code.
So, I am about to attempt the Scamper method...
Bull****,
The dealer can get the code in almost all cases, using Dealer Daily.
The dealer can get the code in almost all cases, using Dealer Daily.
SO, about $10 to get a new key cut from the dealer? I need to do this, the PO only gave me one key and it sounds just like yours, very worn down.
- Thread starter
- #40
Success! (sort of)
I tried the modified scamper method by attempting to patch in via the parking lights but that didn't work. (no surprise since I would guess the lights would need to be on to open the circuit.
However, I found it was very easy get hold of the hood release cable and pop the hood from underneath the vehicle.
And now for the really foolish part. After getting the hood open I pulled the battery (completely dead) and put it on a charger. Then I took one of several fully charged Exide group 27 batteries (same size and manufacturer as the battery in the LC) I keep around for my boat and swapped into the LC.
<can anybody guess where this is going at this point?>
So, no sooner to I touch the second wire to the terminal than the horn goes off and my brain starts screaming IDIOT!!! and I realize that the poles on the two batteries are opposite even though the layout is the same.
I get the wires back off quickly but there is still an unpleasant electrical smell.
I'll let the original battery charge fully and put it back in. It turns out that none of my other batteries will reach the cables in the proper orientation. So, I guess in a few hours I can assess the damage...
I tried the modified scamper method by attempting to patch in via the parking lights but that didn't work. (no surprise since I would guess the lights would need to be on to open the circuit.
However, I found it was very easy get hold of the hood release cable and pop the hood from underneath the vehicle.
And now for the really foolish part. After getting the hood open I pulled the battery (completely dead) and put it on a charger. Then I took one of several fully charged Exide group 27 batteries (same size and manufacturer as the battery in the LC) I keep around for my boat and swapped into the LC.
<can anybody guess where this is going at this point?>
So, no sooner to I touch the second wire to the terminal than the horn goes off and my brain starts screaming IDIOT!!! and I realize that the poles on the two batteries are opposite even though the layout is the same.
I get the wires back off quickly but there is still an unpleasant electrical smell.
I'll let the original battery charge fully and put it back in. It turns out that none of my other batteries will reach the cables in the proper orientation. So, I guess in a few hours I can assess the damage...
