dead battery and locked out. options?

[carolina_cruiser]

The dealer can get the code in almost all cases, using Dealer Daily.

Word from the other dealer's part's dept is that the southeast is on a different system than than the rest of the US and has access to less information than non-southeast dealers.

Anyway, that is what they told me. At this point, since I have the hood open getting the key is not as urgent.

 

[MoJ]

I get the wires back off quickly but there is still an unpleasant electrical smell.

Be prepared to replace the fusible link near the battery.

 

[Slomo]

However, I found it was very easy get hold of the hood release cable and pop the hood from underneath the vehicle.

Good info to know. Hope nothing worse than the fusible link fried.

 

[Grench]

Type 27 ^= Type 27F.

Did you grab the hood release up behind the DS head light or did you manage to get to it up by the firewall?

 

[gbell210]

(I'm not sure if Carolina Cruiser has an alarm, although it would explain the horn going off.. but not the electrical smell)

I've wondered .... I assume the hood has an alarm trigger switch? If so, when you replace a battery like that, wouldn't the alarm start to go off automatically with the hood open? Does the alarm either have a backup battery in it, or memory that isn't erased when power is removed?

Cuz that would bring me to another story of my friend forgeting the ignition code on his '95 BMW 5 series. We basically had to steal his own car, eventhough he had the key, since the alarm keeps its memory with the battery removed.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

Did you grab the hood release up behind the DS head light or did you manage to get to it up by the firewall?

I was able to reach up between the radiator and the grill with a long hook and give the cable a pull where it meets the latch under the hood.

It's entirely possible that the alarm will go off when the battery is charged. (Assuming little mistake didn't fry anything important). If it does, I'll have to hope the remote door unlatch works or I'll have to disconnect the battery again.

I'm not a big fan of the alarm / VSS. So far it has gone off exactly zero times due to criminals and easily a couple dozen or more by me or my wife making a mistake.

 

[Slomo]

Not positive for this alarm system but be prepared for noise when you hook the charged battery back up and have your key fob in hand. My old alarm would go off when power was restored after not recieving any power due to a dead battery or removal of the ground for other work regardless if it was set off before losing power.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

So, I verified that the fusible link near the battery terminal was burned out and replaced it. I also got a full charge on the original battery and put it back in.

Nothing. No signs of life whatsoever. Or at least the key fob (which is now sporting a brand new battery, for good measure) doesn't do anything and there are no lights or other indications inside the vehicle that show evidence of receiving power.

The battery is definitely good and load tests strong. I also checked the fuses in the panel near the battery. No problems there.

I guess there isn't much more I can do for diagnostics until I can get in the vehicle - hopefully on Monday.

Are there other fusible links I should be checking?

 

[Grench]

I'm betting on other fuses being fried in addition to the fusible link. Probably whichever one your alarm is wired to. Is it a factory or after market alarm?

 

[KingOfFools]

Where in Durham are you? I'm just in Chapel Hill, and don't mind coming over to look at it with you at some point.

 

[carolina_cruiser]

I'm betting on other fuses being fried in addition to the fusible link. Probably whichever one your alarm is wired to. Is it a factory or after market alarm?

Factory.

Where in Durham are you? I'm just in Chapel Hill, and don't mind coming over to look at it with you at some point.

I'm in N. Durham. Thanks for offering. Once I have a key I should be in better shape. Fortunately, I don't have any urgent need to use the vehicle right now.



In other news, I signed up for the AAA Plus plan today. I figure between the LC and the MR2 breaking down, I'll probably get my money's worth out of it.

 

[malmon]

So, I verified that the fusible link near the battery terminal was burned out and replaced it. I also got a full charge on the original battery and put it back in.

Nothing. No signs of life whatsoever. Or at least the key fob (which is now sporting a brand new battery, for good measure) doesn't do anything and there are no lights or other indications inside the vehicle that show evidence of receiving power.

The battery is definitely good and load tests strong. I also checked the fuses in the panel near the battery. No problems there.

I guess there isn't much more I can do for diagnostics until I can get in the vehicle - hopefully on Monday.

Are there other fusible links I should be checking?

Check all the fuses. It is possible that the main fuse got it too.

 

[-Spike-]

He can't check the fuses until he gets the car opened. He can't open the car until he checks the fuses. Yikes.

-Spike

 

[dwainf]

I had a similiar situation with my new to me '94 80. the ignition key did not fit any of the other locks. A trip to a locksmith told me that the ignition key barrel had been changed (due to theft or malfunction). He made a new key for the tailgate (the easiest lock to remove). this doesn't help your immediate problem, but it may help you with future problems. The VIN number will get you a key cut at the dealer as well, but that key will not fit your ignition.

 

[malmon]

He can't check the fuses until he gets the car opened. He can't open the car until he checks the fuses. Yikes.

-Spike

The fuse box I'm talking about is that 3"x6" black box located behind the battery in the engine compartment! From what I understand, the engine compartment HAS BEEN OPENED so he can readily look at the fuses

 

[gbell210]

Yes.. there is a fuse in the engine bay that operates the keyless. I believe it is the "DOME" fuse, that is 15A. If that is blown, your keyless entry won't work, neither will your radio or dome lights.

 

[medtro]

Assuming you have the right key, pull it out slightly before you turn. It works for me, I hope this will work for you too.

 

[jfz80]

and just to satisfy those that have asked; the cheapest window to replace is the small trapezoidal one in the rear doors that sits b/w door window and the sliders. IIRC about $70 (cdan: feel free to edit/correct me if you know another)

 

[carolina_cruiser]

UPDATE:

I got a key cut based on the VIN at the dealer this afternoon and tried it when I got home from work.


The door unlocked effortlessly. The new key is the same pattern as the old one and works the ignition as well. It is evident when both keys are held up side by side that the original key is severely worn - possibly by 2/3rds in the worst areas.

Apparently, the key was worn to the point where it was okay to work the ignition, but wouldn't work the door locks. I had tried every possible permutation of moving the original key in, out, side to side, forward, backward and hadn't been hopeful for the new key.

Lesson learned? Get your key replaced every 10 - 15 years or at least verify that it works on a regular basis.



Now that I'm inside, the truck has power. But for some reason the alarm / remote unlock is dead. And it will crank but won't start. I'll look at the fuses in the cabin soon when I can find time.


Thanks all for the help and suggestions.

 

[NorCalDoug]

crank but no start?

check the EFI fuse under the hood.