Da Hood

[turbocruiser]

One thing I forgot to mention, my eyes might fool me but it looks like you are holding up the vehicle with only that blue bottle jack. If that thing falls on you, you wont be able to share the wisdom with us so put a few jackstands just in case will ya? We dont wanna lose ya. Hope I dont sound motherly!?! , safe wheeling, and safe wrenching for all!!!!!

 

[Landpimp]

OK, but my old 3fe drags around 7000+ on a daily basis(when I drive it) and its been loaded at least another 1000lbs over that...........never had any heat issues........speed issues yes :

Don't you think that if the blower wasn't on then there wouldn't be any(or less) heat issues? I don't buy the 8000lbs is why(only) there are heat issues, and adding more stuff to keep it cool is also adding more weight.......then it will take more mods to overcome that added weight......and so on.

I guess my point is it seem that the blower "might" not be the thing if you want to keep the reliability that is built into a Cruiser. I was myself considering a blower for the 100....

I am NOT knocking the mods Bill is doing, I am pretty damn impressed! just curious why?

[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=11978;start=msg109790#msg109790 date=1077666332]
It's more than just the blower Pimp.

When Bill's loaded for a trip he grosses well over 8000 lbs.(no trailer either). He also goes places where he is his own recovery service. He has redundant redundancy throughout the vehicle.
[/quote]

 

[Junk]

Looks like in the meantime he's doing a little front end axle service as well.

Photo, great pics and info. You always amaze me.

Pimp, I could get you a deal on a slightly used 80 series blower

 

[landtank]

To Dan and others,
I'm a little anxious for his results. If I'm not mistaken I was the first to offer a LOUVER solution to his heat issue. Cooling any engine is about air FLOW!. You can mount any number of air scoops to the hood, but if there is no where for the air to exhaust then there is no FLOW! The basic idea is to provide equal exhaust for intake, just as in an engine. Because of the louver design a vacuum is created to suck out the heat. This only happens when the vehicle is moving, when the vehicle is stopped convection cooling (heat rises) takes over and the louvers allow that heat out of the engine compartment. This approackh isn't new as some of the older 40's have louvering.

As for the rain, PLEASE, you can cross rivers with this truck! What's a little rain 8).

 

[yomama]

I beg to differ on the rain remark. After power washing my engine and leaving it sit for hours (it was cool to begin with). The next day running I had big time missing and ended up having to replace all the spark plugs because the ceramic cracked. Oh, no I did not try to get water sprayed in that area, I was being pretty careful. This happened to someone else too.

Yomama

 

[wob]

[quote author=PDoyle link=board=2;threadid=11978;start=msg109748#msg109748 date=1077660212]
Ya know what would be really cool... The scoop from/like the newer 4 runners.
[/quote]

I've thought the same thing.

 

[landtank]

Yo, how did you get water down at the plugs? Do you have non OEM wires? The plug wires seal when installed in properly. I've power washed my truck and never worried about any of it. Never a problem.

The hood scoop as an ornament would be ok, but for heat removal I don't think it will be as efficient as the louvers.

 

[yomama]

Landtank,

Yes I have OEM plug wires and such. I have less then 50k on the odeemeter

It happened to someone else too, but I can't recall who. Surprised the heck out of me too, I am thinking "damn, I have this snorkel and I can't power wash the engine?".
Water got in all but the two front plug holes. :'(

Yomama

 

[TOZOVR]

Powerwashing stuff is much more likely to effect the electronics than if you removed the hood entirely and drove in the rain. Think about the velocity of a pressurewasher.

Also, if you're rocking the snorkel all wires and connections really ought to be treated with dialectic grease. Likely take care of your pressure washing issues as well.

 

[turbocruiser]

In my personal opinion, powerwashing the engine is an awful thing to do. Most powerwashers spray at over 1600 psi, some go to 2500 or more. With that sort of pressure and the fact that the stream that comes from the powerwasher is so sharp, you can really screw up so many things. The water will force its way into switches, relays, everything and can cause shorts, malfunctions, sparks etc. Personally I always apply the same procedure when washing the engine. First I disconnect the battery and tightly tuck the battery cables somewhere away from the battery terminals. Second, I make sure the engine temp is no more than warm; never wash with cold water on hot engine, bad mix. Third, I never use normal 'engine degreasing' stuff cause it causes the rubber to turn white and I suspect that it causes rubber and plastic to age rapidly. Fourth, I always use a citrus based cleaner that is safe for rubber, plastic, etc. Fifth, I only wash with the hose, no forceful nozzles, just the hose and a soft sprayer. Sixth, after I wash, I always give myself time for about four number sixes while the engine drip drys! And lastly, before hooking up the battery and running the engine, I blast everything out with air from the air hose. When I do hook up the battery, I hook it up and immediately start the engine and run it around for about fifteen miles or so; you do not want to hook up the battery and let it sit while even slightly wet - get it going, get it warm and then park it and let everything evaporate. HTH

 

[Photoman]

Landtank - Rick,
Yes, you were the first to give me the louver idea and I think your idea is great. I also agree with you on trying to jam more air under the hood with no place to go as I believe Christo also mentioned. It's like a forced air furnace system in a house, it should be balanced. The returns should equal the air going out the registers.
Here is a couple of pics of something else I fabbed for air. I am going to roll a bead on it just in case I want to hook a hose to it and have air come in specifically for something. Otherwise it will put more air through the rad now.
The power washing method that has always worked for me is to do it with the motor running. Used with a little common sense; like not blasting directly into the alternator and not shoving the wand into the moving fan, I have never had a problem. Also, I always leave the motor run for a good while after washing to allow for drying. Another common sense thing is to keep the wand back a bit from the engine to lessen the pressure. I once was using my 2000 psi washer to remove concrete that was stuck to the sides of the bed of my pickup when the mixer washed out too close to it and it started to take the paint off. I don't mean in strips; it took the clearcoat off first then the basecoat to the primer before I realized what was happening. Feathered it right out.


Bill

 

[Landpimp]

have your thought about maybe using a marine bilge(sp) blower to get some of the heat out? some are fairly compact(like 3" around) and suck out alot of air. Just a thought.

 

[cruiserdan]

That may work well, particularly when you are at "wakeless speed" off road I have an Atwood blower in my boat that does move quite a bit of air. How to route the ducting..........? 8)

 

[Landpimp]

back into the intake? mini turbo



[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=11978;start=msg110475#msg110475 date=1077755551]
That may work well, particularly when you are at "wakeless speed" off road I have an Atwood blower in my boat that does move quite a bit of air. How to route the ducting..........? 8)
[/quote]

 

[IdahoDoug]

Not to rain on the parade of the louver crowd, but I don't think they're going to have as much of a dramatic impact on cooling as they will on looks. They look very cool, BTW. The comments relating an underhood airflow as needing more opportunities for exit from the fan flow are simply not realistic. The purpose of the engine fan is not to blow air all over the engine to cool it, but to pull air through the radiator(s) and cool the fluid flowing through them.

Once the air passes through the engine fan, there is no restriction that the louvers will relieve for greater airflow - the entire bottom of the engine bay is completely open and there simply is no opportunity to pressurize it. Thus, no airflow benefit to the louvers in terms of total airflow through the engine bay. Will the flow change a bit - yes. More air will go up and out the louvers instead of all of it going out the bottom and if there was a pocket of hot air developing against the hood it will relieve it. But the idea of increased total airflow is incorrect. Some passive airflow when the engine's off will of course occur and that's good too.

Just a quick comment.

DougM

 

[cruiserdan]

Crap!

I just ordered dual bilge blowers :whoops:


Thanks a lot Doug

 

[scottm]

Hot rodders used to adjust the rear of the hood up to allow air to vent, that would keep out the rain. Maybe you could just remove the rubber weatherstripping at the rear of the hood, that'd be a fair size opening.

My aged Audi has an afterrun fan that cools the turbo and injection system after shutdown, as well as an afterrun pump that runs coolant through the turbo. Maybe that's why it's running strong with 230k on it?

Don't they use and abuse stock 80s in deserts and other hot climates without trouble?

 

[landtank]

Doug, I'm pretty sure you weren't around when this was originally discussed. Comments were made about the "under the hood" temp of a running 80. I beleive it was Christo. And I mentioned that louvers might help.

Scott, I did suggest that he prop up the hood before modding as a test to whether or not it would help.

I've known guys who have built hot rods who claim it ran fine until they put the hood on, which I assumed it was from trapping in the heat. Also I recently remember someone line-xing their truck and then having an over heating issue, again I assumed it was from increased temps under the hood from the sun.

Still interested in seeing the results.

 

[cruiserdan]

I have measured under-hood ambient temps of 180 degrees (according to my Bluepoint thermometer) on an idling 1FZ engine in the summertime.

 

[yomama]

There is no doubt that the hood is trapping heat inside (heat rises). I have a constant temp gauge under my hood and before I wrapped the manifold and exhaust I was near 200 degrees (pulling THE BOAT). Without THE BOAT I have seen around 180 as C-dan says. Since wrapping I am staying below 170. I would still like to decrease temps more if possible. I had an idea like Photoman did with the light, but I was looking at taking out the turn signal lights since I have the ARB and using those openings to push more air through. Still thinking ???

Yomama