hoser
SILVER Star
I was just going to say--how about ceramic coating the header? Doesn't cost too much.
Da Hood
- Thread starter Photoman
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
I did not look at the louver idea that Rick gave me as a total heat solution, rather as another thing that would help lower temps. Besides I think they look good and are something else that makes the cruiser look different. Looks are one of the reasons I kept the carriage bolts visible as opposed to welding studs on.
Yo - That turn signal lens mod is turning out to be a project. I probably have about seven or eight days in it to date. It is just not the lens, but the whole lens housing that needs reworked. I had to make up a bunch of plexiglass pieces and glue them in. My idea was to put in two bulbs to replace the one existing turn signal bulbs to try to stay legal. IIRC, a front turn signal must be seen from the front and the side, so unless you live somewhere where the rules are different you will have to add a side turn signal if you just remove the lens. CDan had talked about removing his one time and ducting air in from the front to the engine. Mine is just for the oil cooler.
Bill
Yo - That turn signal lens mod is turning out to be a project. I probably have about seven or eight days in it to date. It is just not the lens, but the whole lens housing that needs reworked. I had to make up a bunch of plexiglass pieces and glue them in. My idea was to put in two bulbs to replace the one existing turn signal bulbs to try to stay legal. IIRC, a front turn signal must be seen from the front and the side, so unless you live somewhere where the rules are different you will have to add a side turn signal if you just remove the lens. CDan had talked about removing his one time and ducting air in from the front to the engine. Mine is just for the oil cooler.
Bill
Regarding underhood temps, I don't doubt that towing gets things toasty. When we tow, and I pull off for gas, I'm in the habit of letting the truck idle while I fill up so it gets a chance to get rid of some extra heat. Some safety issues, I know but I take measures on that, too. But unless you're having heat related issues (preignition, scorched underhood plastic, etc) then I wouldn't get too excited about things. Is 200 degrees hot, or within the range Toyota expected when they designed the vehicle? I don't know, but I'd be surprised if Toyota did not design the engine bay and associated components to handle a great deal of heat given the LandCruiser's role as their premier offroad vehicle and global tasking in extreme desert environments. Looking underhood, there is way more open space around that block than is the norm, and other cues like the walled off battery tray (heat reduces their life) indicate attention to heat resistance.
All I'm saying is that for most of us the vehicle can likely handle far more heat than we're generating. Photoman's application likely pushes the envelope with forced induction (major heat), very heavy GVW, offroad use, lots of low speed hard work and idling. Combine these factors in one vehicle, add some extremely hot weather and the fact that he's out alone with it and I too would be attending to heat issues as a preventative measure.
Photoman - That side marker lamp is looking sweet. I think you'll still comply if you made a small plate or tab welded across the lower middle most gap between the bars and put an orange/yellow LED there. It would minimally restrict airflow if designed for minimal cross section, and be a real eye catcher. Will you be putting a tube behind this intake to cool a specific area, or is this to be just a general vent? I ask this because you might find at idle with the engine fan on there might be enough airflow to push warm air OUT this vent rather than it allowing cooler air IN. A tube with inline bilge blower directly to an area of concern would guarantee cooling air is coming IN at all vehicle speeds including the lower ones I'd expect it to possibly have air coming out. That is a nice piece of work.
DougM
All I'm saying is that for most of us the vehicle can likely handle far more heat than we're generating. Photoman's application likely pushes the envelope with forced induction (major heat), very heavy GVW, offroad use, lots of low speed hard work and idling. Combine these factors in one vehicle, add some extremely hot weather and the fact that he's out alone with it and I too would be attending to heat issues as a preventative measure.
Photoman - That side marker lamp is looking sweet. I think you'll still comply if you made a small plate or tab welded across the lower middle most gap between the bars and put an orange/yellow LED there. It would minimally restrict airflow if designed for minimal cross section, and be a real eye catcher. Will you be putting a tube behind this intake to cool a specific area, or is this to be just a general vent? I ask this because you might find at idle with the engine fan on there might be enough airflow to push warm air OUT this vent rather than it allowing cooler air IN. A tube with inline bilge blower directly to an area of concern would guarantee cooling air is coming IN at all vehicle speeds including the lower ones I'd expect it to possibly have air coming out. That is a nice piece of work.
DougM
Doug, quite a few people have experienced a harness meltdown already. I don't know their specific setup but it would seem that maybe Toyota didn't think of everything.
Rick,
I've not heard of general harness meltdowns. I think you're referring to failure of some wires in the bundle at the rear of the valve cover. IMHO, this has been improperly assigned to heat. I've checked mine, and feel the issue is an unduly restrictive method of clamping the wire bundle in a location that needs to allow for movement between the engine and stationary firewall. I snipped the offending wire clips and it obviously relieved a great deal of stress on the wires. I have heard that after the wire(s) broke from the yanking/stress in a couple cases, there was heat damage to the insulation of the broken wire which is simply from arcing of that wire that would have occured. But IMHO, this damage was from physical force on the wire, not engine bay heat, though I note Toyota did see fit to add heat insulation to this bundle. Ironically, the insulation was part of the restriction problem. This reminds me I was planning to add that "snip" solution to the FAQs.......
Was there other heat damage I'm not aware of, or is this the area you're referring to?
DougM
I've not heard of general harness meltdowns. I think you're referring to failure of some wires in the bundle at the rear of the valve cover. IMHO, this has been improperly assigned to heat. I've checked mine, and feel the issue is an unduly restrictive method of clamping the wire bundle in a location that needs to allow for movement between the engine and stationary firewall. I snipped the offending wire clips and it obviously relieved a great deal of stress on the wires. I have heard that after the wire(s) broke from the yanking/stress in a couple cases, there was heat damage to the insulation of the broken wire which is simply from arcing of that wire that would have occured. But IMHO, this damage was from physical force on the wire, not engine bay heat, though I note Toyota did see fit to add heat insulation to this bundle. Ironically, the insulation was part of the restriction problem. This reminds me I was planning to add that "snip" solution to the FAQs.......
Was there other heat damage I'm not aware of, or is this the area you're referring to?
DougM
That was what I was referring to. I haven't checked out my harness yet as I'm waiting for 2 weeks. I thought I read that it looked like a heat issue and wires got crossed and not broken. Could be wrong. I'll have to try the search function :-[.
- Thread starter
- #47
Doug,
Thanks for the light idea. What I did was to paint the inside of the plexiglass pieces I fabbed with chrome paint with the idea that the light from the two small bulbs would be reflected around. This photo shows the back of the lens housing before bulb holes etc.
The way the airflow through the oil cooler is supposed to work when moving is for the air to come in through the lens opening, through a duct, through the oil cooler, then out through a small louver that I will cut into the side of the fender by my 40th badge. I have a Mocal oil thermostat that is mechanical and opens when the oil temps hit 180F to send oil through the cooler. I am going to put a 180F sensor in the lines or oil pan that will turn on a squirrel cage fan/bilge fan located where the charcoal canister was. It will be ducted to pull in air from part of the DS hood louver and ducted under the DS battery box, tied into the lens duct to blow through the oil cooler. I will wye it in so it blows parallel to any airflow through the lens.
I think the wiring issue that Rick is talking about is the injection wires get cooked where they pass the EGR valve. This happened to me and I found out from Toyota to others. It is related to the SC. I don't know if it's from increased EGR temps or the fact that the wiring in this area gets altered with a SC install, or both. The throttle body gets moved and the wiring harness cover is cut to get the slack. The tiny wires that go to the injectors can not stand to have even one strand break I was told by Toyota.
Hope this is a better explaination.
Bill
Thanks for the light idea. What I did was to paint the inside of the plexiglass pieces I fabbed with chrome paint with the idea that the light from the two small bulbs would be reflected around. This photo shows the back of the lens housing before bulb holes etc.
The way the airflow through the oil cooler is supposed to work when moving is for the air to come in through the lens opening, through a duct, through the oil cooler, then out through a small louver that I will cut into the side of the fender by my 40th badge. I have a Mocal oil thermostat that is mechanical and opens when the oil temps hit 180F to send oil through the cooler. I am going to put a 180F sensor in the lines or oil pan that will turn on a squirrel cage fan/bilge fan located where the charcoal canister was. It will be ducted to pull in air from part of the DS hood louver and ducted under the DS battery box, tied into the lens duct to blow through the oil cooler. I will wye it in so it blows parallel to any airflow through the lens.
I think the wiring issue that Rick is talking about is the injection wires get cooked where they pass the EGR valve. This happened to me and I found out from Toyota to others. It is related to the SC. I don't know if it's from increased EGR temps or the fact that the wiring in this area gets altered with a SC install, or both. The throttle body gets moved and the wiring harness cover is cut to get the slack. The tiny wires that go to the injectors can not stand to have even one strand break I was told by Toyota.
Hope this is a better explaination.
Bill
>> It is related to the SC. <<
Bill,
FYI, the cooked injector wires in that harness have been reported by several (a few?) people with non-SC'd vehicles. This problem has been reported here and on 80sCool. The most recent post that I recall was here on IH8MUD and was a fairly new owner. The problem was diagnosed and resolved by a dealer mechanic. Other problems related to the harness were as Doug described where there was some chafing or stretched wires in the harness on the firewall and another reported a similar problem under the glove box.
-B-
Bill,
FYI, the cooked injector wires in that harness have been reported by several (a few?) people with non-SC'd vehicles. This problem has been reported here and on 80sCool. The most recent post that I recall was here on IH8MUD and was a fairly new owner. The problem was diagnosed and resolved by a dealer mechanic. Other problems related to the harness were as Doug described where there was some chafing or stretched wires in the harness on the firewall and another reported a similar problem under the glove box.
-B-
- Thread starter
- #49
Updates on the hood louver install.
I though it best to keep this together in this old thread even though the original pictures disappeared. There should be enough new ones to get the idea.
I finished the louver install by making a provision to partially block water entry if I desire. I made the first piece out of .080 inch 6061 aluminum to space the .080 inch aluminum louver slide up off the hood surface. The spacers are .115 inch aluminum to allow clearance for the slide to work with powder coating. I bent a lip on the slide for a handle to pull it out with. There are small openings at both ends of the slides to allow some water out. If the height of the louver did not matter and a better seal desired, the spacers could be raised about a 1/16 inch or so and rubber trim added around the inside of piece one. As it is it seems pretty tight. I am not particularly concerned with water getting in but thought it would be nice in a deep water crossing with the bow wave.
This slide idea will also work in the winter in case I want to actually keep heat in under the hood.
I considered putting in a small pin to keep the slide from vibrating out but will have to take a wait and see as it seems pretty tight as it is. For the photographers out there, this is like the dark slide on a Hasselblad back.
I guess I should say I bent some aluminum into channel to finish the openings on the underside. These help hold up the insulating material under the hood around the louver openings.
Please keep in mind my cruiser is a torn apart garage queen now, so I can’t answer any running questions.
Bill
I though it best to keep this together in this old thread even though the original pictures disappeared. There should be enough new ones to get the idea.
I finished the louver install by making a provision to partially block water entry if I desire. I made the first piece out of .080 inch 6061 aluminum to space the .080 inch aluminum louver slide up off the hood surface. The spacers are .115 inch aluminum to allow clearance for the slide to work with powder coating. I bent a lip on the slide for a handle to pull it out with. There are small openings at both ends of the slides to allow some water out. If the height of the louver did not matter and a better seal desired, the spacers could be raised about a 1/16 inch or so and rubber trim added around the inside of piece one. As it is it seems pretty tight. I am not particularly concerned with water getting in but thought it would be nice in a deep water crossing with the bow wave.
This slide idea will also work in the winter in case I want to actually keep heat in under the hood.
I considered putting in a small pin to keep the slide from vibrating out but will have to take a wait and see as it seems pretty tight as it is. For the photographers out there, this is like the dark slide on a Hasselblad back.
I guess I should say I bent some aluminum into channel to finish the openings on the underside. These help hold up the insulating material under the hood around the louver openings.
Please keep in mind my cruiser is a torn apart garage queen now, so I can’t answer any running questions.
Bill
semlin
curmudgeon
nice. in vancouver, I'd need a dash operated louver closer for those sudden squalls
2 louvers, 2 snorkels but only one wiper ? were you going for wiper symettry front to back?
2 louvers, 2 snorkels but only one wiper ? were you going for wiper symettry front to back?
The louvers look good. Should really draw out heat. Kinda reminds me of the 5.9L Heep G.C. hood. Not sure I get the slides though. My 40 has louvers and no water protection.
I havent had a problem with heat (did I just jinx myself?) but I have been thinking about putting a rear facing fiberglass scoop offset on the passenger side over the exhaust manifold
sort of a giant uni-louver
(something like the drivers side scoop on the old pontiac turbo TA)
or perhaps something like
sort of a giant uni-louver
(something like the drivers side scoop on the old pontiac turbo TA)
or perhaps something like
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Hi Bill!
What is the story on that pod on the top center of your dash? First we've seen of that as far as I know.
Nice job on the louvers.
-B-
What is the story on that pod on the top center of your dash? First we've seen of that as far as I know.
Nice job on the louvers.
-B-
where does the second snorkel go?
- Thread starter
- #58
Quote from PabloVTA:
The front started to fill up with coolers; radiator, AC, aux. trans, SC intercooler, and power steering so I wanted to be able to get some extra air in under the hood for other coolers or whatever. Keep in mind that I had a larger custom radiator made, and because the radiator area was maximized, the bottom tank was made smaller. Since the tank is smaller I could not use the stock in the bottom tank trans cooler and had to use a smaller GM one. That smaller cooler combined with the stock aux. trans cooler and slow speeds plowing through snow caused my trans to overheat a couple of times. So I added a much larger aux. trans cooler below the radiator, and thought for insurance to squeeze in an additional couple of small coolers fed cool air from the second snorkel. Some pictures.
Pictures of snorkel build at end.
OK, shorter answer – extra transmission coolers.
Bill
The front started to fill up with coolers; radiator, AC, aux. trans, SC intercooler, and power steering so I wanted to be able to get some extra air in under the hood for other coolers or whatever. Keep in mind that I had a larger custom radiator made, and because the radiator area was maximized, the bottom tank was made smaller. Since the tank is smaller I could not use the stock in the bottom tank trans cooler and had to use a smaller GM one. That smaller cooler combined with the stock aux. trans cooler and slow speeds plowing through snow caused my trans to overheat a couple of times. So I added a much larger aux. trans cooler below the radiator, and thought for insurance to squeeze in an additional couple of small coolers fed cool air from the second snorkel. Some pictures.
Pictures of snorkel build at end.
OK, shorter answer – extra transmission coolers.
Bill
Photoman said:Thanks! The pod is old stuff. It didn't get much interest so that's why you probably don't remember.
Bill,
Somehow I missed the thread.
Are all five spots occupied now and if so by/with what gauges?
I like having the option of having them covered when not in use so it wouldn't draw unnecessary attention from potential thieves.
Very nice.
Mot
- Thread starter
- #60
Thanks Mot,
Lol. Seems like many missed that thread.
There are still just the three gauges in there now. Trans temp, oil pressure, and a two stage intake temp gauge. One of the two that are left will probably be for a fuel level gauge for a water/methanol tank. Don’t know what to have in the last spot. I would prefer to have a gauge from the same series of Autometer gauges that I used for the first three, so I am somewhat limited in the gauge choices. BTW, I think I may have gotten my inspiration for this gauge panel from some of the links you sent me once on RHD cruisers. I think they may make a dash gauge panel or something like this one for them. I couldn’t understand the writing, but know how to look at pictures.
Bill
Lol. Seems like many missed that thread.
There are still just the three gauges in there now. Trans temp, oil pressure, and a two stage intake temp gauge. One of the two that are left will probably be for a fuel level gauge for a water/methanol tank. Don’t know what to have in the last spot. I would prefer to have a gauge from the same series of Autometer gauges that I used for the first three, so I am somewhat limited in the gauge choices. BTW, I think I may have gotten my inspiration for this gauge panel from some of the links you sent me once on RHD cruisers. I think they may make a dash gauge panel or something like this one for them. I couldn’t understand the writing, but know how to look at pictures.
Bill
