D.U.I. Distributor? (1 Viewer)

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I just ordered one and am wondering how good they are? what to expect, etc. Thanks
 
I've noticed a bunch of people on here that don't even like to talk about any aftermarket distributors, and when they do they seem to think that they are inferior to OEM. I however, am contemplating buying one myself, so let me know how it works out for you!!!
 
I've run one for several years, and there are at least a dozen more cruiser folks in my area that run one........ all are satisfied......
 
I'm contemplating getting one as well, a lot of feedback says they are no better than a stock distributor, but what I'm getting out of it is that they are a little more forgiving for mechanics like me (less than perfect cause that damn timing can be a bitch sometimes!)
 
I'm speaking for a FJ60, but this most likely applies to the 62. Why would someone replace the Toyota dizzy with something else? To me, it's kinda like the weber carb swap. A properly running Toyota unit is far superior to the units people replace them with. Heck, they are designed specifically for this motor! However, people have old, tired units and then put on some replacement part and notice an improvement replacing the old, tired OEM part with a new, non-OEM part. But this doesn't make sense, both cost wise, design wise, and how well it works.

For the distributor, it's much cheaper to get yours rebuilt than buy one of these HEI units. People like Jim C. will not only rebuild yours, but curve it for your specific application (i.e. desmogged, etc.). Will the DUI people do that? All for much less than most HEI replacements. So seeing how your OEM will have the exact correct curve for your motor, what does the HEI unit offer?

Second, most people say they like the HEI unit because of the high voltage. But this is not a function of the distributor, but of the coil. If you want a higher voltage coil, just replace the stock coil with a hotter coil. Again, cheap and easy.

And last, the Toyota unit is a better unit in general. It is very waterproof, with it's o-ring where the cap meets the unit and even a flow of air from the inside of the cabin to draw out any moisture. Way more waterproof than the HEI unit. A number of my chevy owning friends find the HEI units not the most reliable in the world. They almost all carry a new cap / coil with them due to past issues.

So why would you want to replace the OEM distributor? Just my opinions here as always.
 
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Second, most people say they like the HEI unit because of the high voltage. But this is not a function of the distributor, but of the coil. If you want a higher voltage coil, just replace the stock coil with a hotter coil. Again, cheap and easy.

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The spark voltage is determined by the plug gap and conditions inside the combustion chamber, not by the coil. All coils are capable of putting out much higher voltages than are necessary to make a spark and there is no advantage to having a higher voltage spark than necessary to ignite the air fuel mixture.
 
True. How much voltage is necessary for a plug to spark is determined by the gap. However, not all coils will be able to provide a good spark for wider gapped plugs. Without opening a can of worms, one school of thought are that a wider gapped plug creates a larger spark causing better combustion. The point I was raising is that if you were putting in HEI with the idea that you would be able to gap your plugs wider than the stock coil would allow, you could accomplish this with a different coil. The ability to produce enough voltage to spark across a gap is a function of the coil, not the distributor. Distributors are only responsible for the timing of that spark.
 
I have one in my FJ 60 and one in my FJ 40, the one in the 60 runs like a champ the one in the 40 is giving me fits. I have called the guys that installed it, local LA cruiser supplier not Spectre, but their service dept. won't call me back. May end up going back to the stocker on the 40.
 
I'm speaking for a FJ60, but this most likely applies to the 62.

The last I checked the D.U.I. was not available for the 3FE. The ECU requires a signal from the distributor that the D.U. I. does not provide.

So why would you want to replace the OEM distributor? Just my opinions here as always.

Granted, we are talking FJ60's here, but if I was running an old points and condenser dizzy I would upgrade to the D.U.I. in a heart beat. There is no way you are going to convince me the original 30 year old technology, even in factory condition, is going to perform better.
 
I just put a rebuilt FJ60 distributor in my FJ40. It runs great, perfect in fact. DUI, I am sure is good stuff, but what is the specific advantage over an FJ60 distributor? FJ60 distributors are waterproof, vented, factory fit and spark the ignition every time. Mine was custom curved by JimC.

The only experience I have with DUI, was a guy on Rubicon looking for a new coil.
 
Help

I know I'm a bit late to this thread, but I'm troubleshooting an ignition issue on my 62 and the dizzy is the current suspect. (I've replaced igniter, coil, efi relay, etc. still no spark) I was about to buy a replacement, but I'd like to hear more about having it rebuilt. Can you guys recommend somebody to rebuild my distributor? Is it common for them to fail? (1988, 207K miles)

Thanks,
 
Have you checked for resistance through the signal generator( 140-180 ohms) and air gap between the signal rotor and pickup coil( around .008)?
 
For the rebuild question>>>>>>>>>>>>>Jim Chenoweth (here on mud, BTW) is the name I see 99% of the time. No personal experience, however.
 
Have you checked for resistance through the signal generator( 140-180 ohms) and air gap between the signal rotor and pickup coil( around .008)?

I've checked the resistance and it is good. I thought the air gap wasn't adjustable on a 1988 but I will check that gap. (thanks)

I've also tried to contact Jim C by phone and PM. Maybe he's out of town or something.

I am now suspicious of the ECU because my check engine light won't even come on at all with the key on. So nothing happens with the OBD... it's unresponsive. Anybody heard of that?
 
Have you checked for resistance through the signal generator( 140-180 ohms) and air gap between the signal rotor and pickup coil( around .008)?

I am troubleshooting my 3FE and took some reading on my dizzy, I got 178 ohms cold and 194 ohms when the engine is hot on both pickups. Should the reading vary? jeff
 

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