D.I.Y Pusher Fan on 60

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@brutledge, aye fool this is pretty tight. Are you running R134 or R12? I just recently got my AC hooked up with 34 and am mulling over this nifty mod.

@LCnAZ we have a meeting in Tucson this weekend you should stop by.

I'm running r134. Let me know if you have any questions or anything I can help you with.
 
@brutledge, aye fool this is pretty tight. Are you running R134 or R12? I just recently got my AC hooked up with 34 and am mulling over this nifty mod.

@LCnAZ we have a meeting in Tucson this weekend you should stop by.

Thank you for the invite. I'm tied up with wifey this weekend and 33rd anniversary activities. Also, my 62 won't be ready for a week or so. Rain check.
 
I had this mishimoto 14" back in the day ( now a spal same size ) had to trim the grill in the back ..

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I'm running r134. Let me know if you have any questions or anything I can help you with.

I'm going to try to fit a 12" in that upper left corner of the condenser like where you put your 10". I'm also going to try to put a 10" down in the bottom right corner below that condenser line. Both will be thermostatically controlled, and likely have a kill switch in the cab.

Going to do a major condenser clean, though, while the grille is off. One has to be careful doing this, but I've had good luck doing this. I spray Simple Green or similar very thoroughly into the fins, let soak for ten minutes or so, then carefully pressure wash the condenser.
 
I recently installed a pusher fan on the front of my cruiser to help my A/C during in town driving since I daily my 60 in 100+ Central Florida heat.

it is a pretty simple and easy install but I figured I'd put it all in one thread in case someone else wants to do it.

I used a 10in SPL fan and just a 4 Pin universal relay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PB9M1Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wiring for the relay goes like this.
- from fan goes straight to the battery
87 + from fan wiring
30 goes into an inline fuse and then to the + on the battery
86 gets jumped to 30 with a small piece of wire
85 runs to one of the two spots on the back of the switch.
Other wire on switch gets grounded inside the cab.

I used a factory switch so it looks fairly stock in the cab. The switch works by breaking and reconnecting the ground for the fan.

Hopefully, this helps someone else out if they are thinking of doing this.

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Please provide details of how you solved fitment of the fan with regards to the line that runs roughly across the front of the condenser as seen in the tech drawing. With grille removed and 10" fan in hand, I cannot see how it can fit without having a replacement line made that will not be in the way.

Land Cruiser Condenser Tech Drawing.jpg
 
That’s why I went with a 10in fan on the left side because of that hard line that runs across. It just barely fits in there. If you made a line that runs along the bottom you could put a bigger fan in there. There is virtually no way to put anything on the right side without a custom line
 
Or a better condenser.
 
That’s why I went with a 10in fan on the left side because of that hard line that runs across. It just barely fits in there. If you made a line that runs along the bottom you could put a bigger fan in there. There is virtually no way to put anything on the right side without a custom line

Thanks for the reply. We disconnected the tie-down point of that line on the left with the thought of using a bushing to hold it out away from the condenser a bit giving the fan more depth clearance. But even then, the 10" could not be made to slip behind the line.

Or...did you have to remove the cross beam/header above the condenser, install the fan, then reassemble?

This is the model I'm working with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N90UOOH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Mine tucks under the header a little bit but I didn’t have to do any removable or assembly or anything to the header. It just barely squeezes in there.
 
Mine tucks under the header a little bit but I didn’t have to do any removable or assembly or anything to the header. It just barely squeezes in there.

Thank you. I think that out fans are just different enough in dimensions that I can't get the same result in the same way. I will try the temporary removal approach.
 
Good progress this morning. Removing the horizontal piece above the condenser and loosening the anchor of the crossing condenser line permitted a fit of up to a 12" fan. See test fit below. The crossing condenser line transitions to a rubber line on its way to the dryer...so there is slack and flexibility to that side. Therefore, that side of the line can stand-off another inch from the condenser to allow clearance for the fan. A 1" spacer and a 2" M5 screw anchor the line in place. There is still tons of clearance from the back of the grill.

I will add a 7" fan on the bottom right surface of the condenser for a total of 3500cfm (kind of like in the drawing). I had to order the 7" today, so it will be Thursday morning before I get to install the fans. Electrical to follow.

12 inch Condenser Fan Test Fit.jpg


Dual Fan Image.jpg
 
I tested the 12", 10", and 7" fans today. The 12" output was far greater than the 10 or 7. It was also the quietest by a significant amount. I abandoned the addition of a second fan.

The primary thing that made installation of the 12" possible was the ability to reposition the nearby anchor point for the nuisance condenser line. The other factor that was essential to getting the fan in there was the removal of the beam above the condenser until the fan was securely in place.

Next will be a load test of the alternator with the fan addition.

The t-stat controller has not arrived yet.

Installed 12 inch Fan.jpg


Condenser Line Mod for Fan.jpg
 
I wonder if another 12” would fit on the DS.

It will not; in fact only a 7" would fit. This i because there is zero flexibility of moving the line out of the way on the DS. Even a 7" is too close above the line on the DS. A 10" would extend below the core, therefore be a waste of size. Of course a fan has to be a tight fit to the condenser. In this installation, a tranny cooler could still be added on the DS.

That said, we did consider having Coolstream make a line for us that would move it completely out of the way, but with the 12" fitting, this is not necessary.

But...here is a question for you guys. Out of the box, the fan is configured as a puller fan. The sharp edge of the curved blades bite the air. I just reversed the polarity to reverse the direction of the fan. I wonder now if that reduces the efficiency of the fan...robbing from the curved edge design. Thoughts?
 
Here's an update. I had very short time with the vehicle before I had to turn it over to the painter, but here is what I learned and plan for modifications.

The thermister probe had too high a temp for this utility. Since my goal is to also assist with engine compartment ventilation, we experimented with rigging it other than at the radiator. What we settled on that was easy was using a radiator clamp to secure it to the AGR hose just above the exhaust manifold. The digital thermometer gave us a reading of about 180F, but the thermister was still reluctant to start the fan. I now have a replacement coming that kicks on at 140F off at 125F. That should do the job. I might also tap into the carb fan with the same t-stat controller (it will control two fans) so that it kicks on whenever the condenser fan does.

I'll post again in three weeks or so when I get the vehicle back with its new paint job.
 
Hi @LCnAZ , Been watching your progress. I've had multiple many many hours of driving this summer where I was probably watching my temperature gauge more than I was watching the road.

The thought of installing an electric fan seems like a great move.

Can you remind me if you used a different alternator? Wanted to make sure that a stock FJ62 alternator could handle the electric fan. I think a 12" with your modification ideas sounds awesome.

Will be great to see your rig all pretty and painted!
 

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