D.I.Y Pusher Fan on 60 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 25, 2017
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Location
Florida
I recently installed a pusher fan on the front of my cruiser to help my A/C during in town driving since I daily my 60 in 100+ Central Florida heat.

it is a pretty simple and easy install but I figured I'd put it all in one thread in case someone else wants to do it.

I used a 10in SPL fan and just a 4 Pin universal relay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PB9M1Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The wiring for the relay goes like this.
- from fan goes straight to the battery
87 + from fan wiring
30 goes into an inline fuse and then to the + on the battery
86 gets jumped to 30 with a small piece of wire
85 runs to one of the two spots on the back of the switch.
Other wire on switch gets grounded inside the cab.

I used a factory switch so it looks fairly stock in the cab. The switch works by breaking and reconnecting the ground for the fan.

Hopefully, this helps someone else out if they are thinking of doing this.

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Nice job! Has this mod significantly helped your A/C output and/or dropped engine temps?
I'll get up to 210 without the fan stuck in traffic and now it doesn't go above 200 sitting in traffic. I know it's not a lot but it keeps the A/C from warming up.
 
Quick question on your VDO temp gauge. Did you buy a temp sending unit that matches the VDO gauge or did you use the OEM temp sending unit?

The reason I ask is I also have a VDO temp gauge and am using the OEM sending unit and I don't trust the numbers I'm seeing and have gone back to using my original OEM gauge.

I 'think' I heard somewhere that you're suspossed to match the sending unit to the gauge.
 
Nice install Bradlee.
 
I’ve been contemplating the same. I’ve watched it go to 210* sitting in traffic but it held steady. If I raised the idle with the hand throttle it came down to 191* quickly.

It’s been 90-100* here in Texas and it’s needs some help. I’m thinking about the spal fan with their controller.

How does the voltage gauge like the kit when that fan turns on?
 
Quick question on your VDO temp gauge. Did you buy a temp sending unit that matches the VDO gauge or did you use the OEM temp sending unit?

The reason I ask is I also have a VDO temp gauge and am using the OEM sending unit and I don't trust the numbers I'm seeing and have gone back to using my original OEM gauge.

I 'think' I heard somewhere that you're suspossed to match the sending unit to the gauge.
Yeah, I have a matching sending unit to the gauge. It’s always worked perfect for me

I’ve been contemplating the same. I’ve watched it go to 210* sitting in traffic but it held steady. If I raised the idle with the hand throttle it came down to 191* quickly.

It’s been 90-100* here in Texas and it’s needs some help. I’m thinking about the spal fan with their controller.

How does the voltage gauge like the kit when that fan turns on?
It doesn’t draw that much, not enough to notice. I only have a 10amp fuse in it right now and haven’t had a problem. Was going to run a 15 but just haven’t swapped it out yet.
 
@brutledge do you think that a thermostat of some kind to kick on the pusher fan might be feasible? It might be able to be affixed on the frame just in front of the top of the radiator. It seems that might start to warm up when you're not in motion, yet not be directly on the radiator and possibly be on all the time. It might also simplify installation to not have the switch. Food for thought.
 
@brutledge do you think that a thermostat of some kind to kick on the pusher fan might be feasible? It might be able to be affixed on the frame just in front of the top of the radiator. It seems that might start to warm up when you're not in motion, yet not be directly on the radiator and possibly be on all the time. It might also simplify installation to not have the switch. Food for thought.

Had a kit years ago for a aftermarket electric fan that included a controller that had options for both a manual switch as well as a temp probe that went into the actual raditor fins. Any speed shop will have them, mostly used for folks doing towing and other HD applications who want the ability to kick it on before the thermal cycle does it automatically. Pretty sure it was this but cheaper options are certainly out there.
Flex-a-lite 31165 Variable Speed Control Module


Glenn in Marana
 
Had a kit years ago for a aftermarket electric fan that included a controller that had options for both a manual switch as well as a temp probe that went into the actual raditor fins. Any speed shop will have them, mostly used for folks doing towing and other HD applications who want the ability to kick it on before the thermal cycle does it automatically. Pretty sure it was this but cheaper options are certainly out there.
Flex-a-lite 31165 Variable Speed Control Module


Glenn in Marana

Hey Glenn...thanks for the tip. Are you maintaining your 60 yourself or do you have a good mechanic resource in the area?
 
You could definitely have it auto kick in. I just liked the idea of having the ability to manual control the fan and found a pretty simple way to do so with a stock switch which kept the inside clean. A lot of peoples concern is leaving the fan on when you park if it is manual but to be honest you can hear the fan when you get out with the motor off. It's not lound but it makes a distinct noise that you know its the fan.
 
You could definitely have it auto kick in. I just liked the idea of having the ability to manual control the fan and found a pretty simple way to do so with a stock switch which kept the inside clean. A lot of peoples concern is leaving the fan on when you park if it is manual but to be honest you can hear the fan when you get out with the motor off. It's not lound but it makes a distinct noise that you know its the fan.

I wonder if one could kill two birds with one stone with a pusher aux auto tranny cooler like here: Heavy Duty Auxiliary Automatic Transmission Cooler with Fan [PC3408] - $199.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

Of course, I'd have to confirm that there is adequate clearance in front of the radiator for this.
 
Hey Glenn...thanks for the tip. Are you maintaining your 60 yourself or do you have a good mechanic resource in the area?

Self wrenching. If you aren't already tuned into the Copper State Cruisers user group give 'em a shout. I know there ar e acouple of guys who are restoring 80's and newer as a biz, but there has to be someone who likes working on the older iron.

AZ- Copper State Cruisers


Glenn
 
Self wrenching. If you aren't already tuned into the Copper State Cruisers user group give 'em a shout. I know there ar e acouple of guys who are restoring 80's and newer as a biz, but there has to be someone who likes working on the older iron.

AZ- Copper State Cruisers


Glenn

Thanks for that tip on the group.

For years I could find nobody who knew these old vehicles. My 1990 FJ62 (the last new one in town...bought new from Precision) has been pretty much idle for several years. Daughter drove it when home from college a little, but otherwise it looked like it was a gonner. I recently told wifey that it was either going to drive better and look nice or it was gone. I started digging around on the phone. I got a recommendation and so far it's been a good one. Mine seemed to have no power...super sluggish. I left it with this guy. Turns out it was all simple stuff with one exception: the sluggishness was due primarily to the Throttle Position Cable being out of adjustment causing very early upshifting. Drives really nice now. It did get new plugs and O2 sensors.

The guy is Tim at TCR Automotive on 22nd just east of Pantano. He specializes in Toyotas and has seen a lot of old ones, including Land Cruisers. He can also tackle engine rebuilds.
 
You could definitely have it auto kick in. I just liked the idea of having the ability to manual control the fan and found a pretty simple way to do so with a stock switch which kept the inside clean. A lot of peoples concern is leaving the fan on when you park if it is manual but to be honest you can hear the fan when you get out with the motor off. It's not lound but it makes a distinct noise that you know its the fan.

What is that hard line running horizontally in front of the condenser? Seems like that would be an obstacle to fitting a fan in there. Is that a Freon line? I'm about to have my shop go with a new compressor, dryer, expansion valve, flush, and recharge locally here with CoolStream parts. So, it seems that if that is a Freon line, I wonder if it can be rerouted or a flexible steel line can be used. If so, not is the time. Just brainstorming.
 

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