"D" for Drive light in dash display

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Folks -
The "D" for Drive light on the dash board display in my 99 UZJ100 is out. (all the others work fine, and it's really a cosmetic problem not a functional issue)http://www.ih8mud.com/YaBBImages/embarassed.gif
Has anybody had to replace one of these bulbs? Am I going to havde to tear the entire dashboard apart to get at it? Is it worth it? (I tend to think it may be a good thing that I won't have that bright green light shining in my face for long-distance night driving!)http://www.ih8mud.com/YaBBImages/cool.gif

LT


:-[
 
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That was one of the first questions I had when I bought my cruiser, seems about half of the cruisers have the "D" burned out, and you have to dismantle the dash to replace it. The bulb was only $3-$4 IIRC, a good idea to replace all of them if you are going to go to all that trouble.
 
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The D light on my '96 80 is out too at 92,000 miles. Wonder how hard it is to pull the dash and whether there are other things you should do while you're back there.
 

landtank

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Lost my D light last week. Went down to my parts guy and asked about it. He showed me a page and a half of bulb numbers to choose from. He had no clue which one it was and if I wanted one I'd have to choose. This seems to be a theme with this guy! :-[
 
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I just did this in my 96. You don't need a bulb from the dealer. The process is, 1) pull the trim pieces from around the cluster, first the top, then the middle, then the bottom, 2) remove the cluster. You will need to reach behind the cluster to detatch the 4 connectors. Space is limited, but it can be done without to much trouble (in the US you will have the cluster angled with the left side out to get the connectors disconnected. 3) Take the entire cluster out. 4) remove the subcluster with the shift indicators in it. 5) Take the drive bulb out. 6) Replace the bulb with one of the three or four unused bulbs below the L bulb. and 7) Reinstall everything reverse of disassembly.

The entire job takes about 30-45 minutes.

Cary
 
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Greetings Cary -

>> Replace the bulb with one of the three or four unused bulbs below the L bulb.

I thought about this after you mentioned it to me the other day... The three bulbs in the lower cluster (below the "L") are for "O/D OFF", "PWR", and "2nd START" tranny selection options. Or am I missing something?

Cheers, Ron -
 

LINUS

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Something weird is going on here...mine went out too in the last 3-4 days. Mines a '97 w/ 116k on it.

I could care less at the moment since my "box of toys" just showed up from Slee and I'll have my cluster out anyhow to add a few light bulbs ;)
 

Brentbba

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Funny, mines been out for a couple of years! Service guys say it's a PITA to replace on my '94. Just living with it.
 
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I will have to check out the lights below, I know that my power, and O/D off lights work, maybe I took the 2nd start out and didn't even realize it. Well at least I pulled the one I don't use.

Cary
 

cruiserdan

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90072-02006 (green cap for backlighting, qty 1)

90072-02005 (clear , qty 8 for 91-94, 9 for 95-97)

They be a buck seventeen a rattle........................ 8)

100'S use a 90076-04003, $1.37 each, qty "as required"


 "D" usually goes first as the transmission spends most of it's time in that gear.
 

semlin

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I actually did a survey on the "D" light on 80's cool several months back. People made fun of me, but most people's light was burned out (including mine)

Cary, I have never heard the re and re job described as a 30 minute task as distinct from a horrendous PITA. If you can provide a more Beonese explanation you would be doing me and perhaps others a favour.
 
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Okay here are the directions I used, taken from the 80's cool site (Actually the Birfield Archives). I think the writer made the job look much harder than it was, I just about laughed when it only took me 30 minutes. The only remotely difficult part was getting the four connectors disconnected/reconnected, but there was about 5 times as much room as when I did this on my BMW (BTW, I have pretty large hands).


Cary

1) Remove the lower panel. There are 5 screws that hold it in place.
Leave the thing hanging on the floor. Just watch out not to close the door
or
it may break if it gets jammed.
Easy job.

2) Tilt the steering wheel all the way down and remove the middle panel
by pulling on it. Remove all the connectors.
Hint: There are 4 pressure clips that hold it in place. Take a close look at
them, the way they work and the pieces.
Easy job.

3) Remove the two screws that are in the black plastic panel, upper portion,
Use a small screw driver.
Easy job.

4) Look at the black plastic panel. Look at the pressure clips on the second
panel that you took out. The black panel is now held in place by two
pressure
clips which are located in the lower left hand corner and lower right hand
corner. The one on the left comes out easy, just be careful. It snaps off.
Sort of easy job, if you didn't break the thing black plastic panel.

5) Go the the kitchen and take some aspirins, pray, relax for a while.
Not easy, you should be sweating now.

6) Now try to do the same thing on the right hand side. I dare you!!!!
The F#%&!! thing is stuck!!! You can't get your fingers in there because
the air duck is in the middle, there is a fold in the panel on top which
prevents you from removing it and the worst part, is that the metal clip
is stuck at the foam of the panel above the center console!!
I was about to give up, about to email the list. But then I said, if it
breaks,
tough, I'll buy a new one and I yanked it out.
I broke off the air duck and scratched the padding on the way out.
Note: Look for the metal clip. Mine almost fell into the AC control unit.
F#%&!! F#%&!! F#%&!! and more F#%&!! job!!!

7) Remove the four screws that hold the instrument cluster.
Easy job.

8) Relax a little bit. Look at your hands. Now look at the tires of your truck.
Which are bigger? You are about to experience that your hands are
bigger than those wheels!!!
Start sweating!!

9) Pull the cluster forward enough so you can remove all 5 connectors
in the back. It will not go forward much and you'll wonder how in
the world they got those connectors in!!
Hint: Each connector has a clip that you have to press to remove them.
&nbsp:DO NOT pull from the wires.
Use your imagination with the tip of your fingers.
Try to shrink your hands or have somebody with small hands
to remove them.
F#%&!! and more double F#%&!! job!!!

10) Go for a long walk. Relax. Watch TV. Have a couple of beers.
Not easy. You're about to have a heart attack.

11) If you can figure out how to pull that F#%&!! and more F#%&!!ing
cluster out of there with out scraping it, or ruining the panel, etc.,
please let me know!!!!
The lower right hand corner hits the central console cluster, the right
hits the air duck, the top hits the padding, the bottom hits the steering
wheel plastic cover, the trip odometer reset hits the steering wheel.
Hint: You're on your own, man!!!!
You came this far, now finish it or you'll be taking the bus.
Contact bone yards for used ones, you'll need one after hitting it
with a hammer that you're so pissed off.

12) Putting it back is the reverse.
 

BMT

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Apr 1, 2003
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324
The "D" on mine has been out for over a year. Just think of it this way, if there is no light on, you must be in drive. Besides it's one less light glaring at you at night.
 
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"D" light

My Drive light has been flashing since I bought the cruiser in 2000
There is no pattern to it, and it goes on and off randomly, the others are fine.
I used to worry about it but someone said if it gets to you cover it with black tape! Needless to say I haven't, and have learnt to live with it. Its not a problem. Actually a random flash every now and again (frequently)! is quite reassuring!
'91 80 1hdt auto, UK registered, white, (long-in-tooth ol' Walrus!) 135,000 miles on clock, bull bar, bash plate, tjm spare wheel carrier, desert driving lights, 2.5" lift, heavy duty coil springs and shocks, snorkel, LRFTs
T in Bristol, UK ;)
 

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