Did some stuff. I'm in caffeine absorbtion phase at the moment. Things would have gone quicker if I hadn't had to bundle up like Edmund Fawking Hillary every time I wanted to work in shop over the last month, but it was nice to see the sun instead of the usual grey sky that looks like its 10' above the roof of your house.
But, wiring is mostly sorted, despite it being a simple harness, still pretty much disappeared down a rabbit hole for a week. Squinting at a tiny s***ty chiltons wiring diagram didn't help.
Fortunately I was able to steal lots of bits and pieces from the 60 firewall sitting nearby. I've connected the gauges to the senders, but we'll see how they work, might have to take the oil pressure sender apart to lower its range. I have a feeling it's going to spike the gauge when I start it...or maybe a 24v one would drop the needle.
I think I'll do a quick test to see if the ammeter works tomorrow before I go through the hassle of hooking it up... Different era cluster, so its shunt style, unlike the earlier version the harness came with which took full load. Thankfully everything else seems the same, the only thing that doesn't work on it at the moment is the highbeam indicator, which might come back to life as I improve the grounding.
Occurred to me at some point, (finally) that I should make the ass end useful. Kinda looking forward to getting started on the deck now...
I put a small terminal block on the firewall so I could hook up to the fusible links and such. Doesn't seem like this era of 40 had a starter relay, I may still ad one while it's easy, but I'm trying to avoid adding things. We'll see if the magic smoke stays inside of everything when I start it next. Alternator is the one that has me giving it the hairy eyeball.
Brass thing is because I was sick of looking at the hole someone gnawed in the dash to put a tach in. Dumb place to try to put one, as the defrost hose is right behind there.
Did this light thing just for s***s and giggles...
I wanted a glow light that was after the relay, so I'd know if the relay sticks..because I've had glow relays stick before, more than once even. There is no dead battery like a dead battery after a glow plug relay sticks. Had a 24v truck where it actually reversed the polarity on one of the batteries for half a day. ( no s***, read -7v ...)
Figgered it'd be more useful than seat belts and a brake warning light, which I was never going to hook up, and non working crap annoys me to leave in. Plus, it's an awkward rectangular hole to fill otherwise.
Yes, it's just freehand with a dremel, once I'd had enough beer to steady the hands and make it all seem like a good idea
Oil is hooked to the low psi switch.
Battery box, with some temporary cables so I can chase circuits around.
This thing is actually for making wire rope crimps, aka "nicopress" fittings, but it does a good job crimping battery cables too. Had it since the 80's. Usually it's a big ass tool that looks like a pair of bolt cutters, this is slower, but not so much with air.
Some monkeyfuckery to get the 60 throttle setup to work.
The throttle pivot mounts line up with the ebrake lever mounting bolts with some minor tweaking. Just had to shorten the push rod a couple inches. The gas to diesel throttle thing can be a huge pain in the ass, because the 42 pedal is totally different to the 40, but this actually made it fairly easy.
Rube Goldberg nods approvingly...
it'd be a lot simpler if the stop lever moved back not forward, hence the need for a pivot.
F'd if I was going to use an edic motor. (Despite having 3 or 4 of the damn things)
I have something else in mind than the rope and halyard ball for the pull, but I doubt it'll work any better than this. Has a spring and stop so it doesn't shake the lever around when not in use.
Aforementioned halyard ball...if it'd had teethmarks I'd have used tongs to pick it up...
The hateful clutch master scenario I referred to earlier...one bolt is behind the brake booster, which makes it almost impossible to remove, especially when some bonehead in the distant past tried to remove said bolt with a chisel, and then the welded nut on the inside of the firewall decided to break loose, and the pin was siezed in the pedal.
I don't remember having this issue on my last 40? Maybe this booster is a slightly larger diameter. Pain in the ass either way.
None of this was particularly fun...
Welded nut breaking free was a good thing in the end, because it allowed me to put a bolt through in the other direction, so I might be able to get the clutch mc off without messing with the brake booster in the future.
Maybe...
I may need to scrounge up another 40 series booster, the one I have has some broken studs, I opened it up to see how hard they'd be to replace, doable but it's not exactly pristine. I don't think the 60 booster will fit, tho I haven't given up on that possibility quite yet.
And lastly, I was browsing the amazon a while back and I stumbled across primer pumps.
Amazon product ASIN B077ZRJNPR
Figured at that price it'd be a good spare if nothing else, but when it arrived, the bag says made in china, but it sure looks like a real bosch pump to me. I know they love making knockoffs, but I can't imagine it being worth the effort on something like this. Maybe a minion ****ed up and put a real one in the bag by mistake
Not bad for 12 bucks.
And now, I get to continue attempting to make one good heater fan out of 4 s***ty ones.
Seriously.
