If only replace front different oil seal and/or inboard front drive shaft dust cover. There is no need to removing axle from steering knuckle. Skip: 2, 3, 9, 15, 17 & 18.
1. Block rear tires. Break wheel lug nuts’ loose. Jack up one side of the vehicle, use jack stand under frame for safety & support. Remove tire. Keep the side you are working on at least 4” higher to keep from losing differential fluid after pulling axle.
Tip: I keep a jack under the LCA, to raise and lower as needed.
2. Remove the hub grease cap with a pair of channels-locks, gently rocking off grease cap.
3. Remove the outer axle snap ring.
4. Remove the ABS sensor harness by unplugging sensor from under hood and unclipping & bolting (9lb-ft) from top bracket(s), leaving wheel sensor in knuckle is one option I find a bit faster. You can also work from bottom up removing sensor from knuckle (71in-lbf).
5. Remove brake line from bracket to get out of way. Caution; hold small brake line bracket with wrench, while remove retaining bolt (21ft-lbf). If frozen I just remove main bracket from knuckle. Remove the brake caliper (2 bolts 90ft-lbf) and hang it up out of the way with zip ties, strap or rope.
6. Remove the upper ball joint with a pitman arm puller.
7. Unseat front drive shaft from differential. Go underneath (FSM method) with brass drift and five pound sledge hammer. Place drift on ridge of inboard front drive shaft and knock out of differential. One good hit usually does the job nicely. If you don’t have brass drift, you can use two pray bars, but be care not to bend dust cover.
8. Pull inboard axle out of differential.
9. Pull outboard axle out of steering knuckle.
Tip: In order to clear the shock mount and the stabilizer mount, I turned the steering wheel to align the outboard boot with maximum clearance between the two if needed.
Note: PS is most difficult to clear. Removing tie rod bracket (two bolt) or TRE ball joint makes this easier.
Tip: Cover axle needle bearing & bushing in back of steering knuckle area with rage to keep out dust/grim while working.
10. Remove old seal, observing how it’s seated flush in differential.
11. Apply gear lube to outside of new seal, before seating in differential (tube on DS).
12. Remove old and install new inboard axle snap ring on the end of axle. Apply MP grease to hold snap ring in position, with the opening pointed down.
13. Apply MP grease to lip of differential oil seal before installing Front Drive Shaft axle into differential
14. Insert axle into differential: I just simple guide front drive shaft in with snap ring open end pointed down. I'm very carefully not to nick or knock seal out of place, as I insert axle shaft. Slightly twisting counter & clockwise too line up teeth of inboard axle with female end of differential teeth. Pushing in as far as one can. Then too seat that last ~1/4"; hold front drive shaft very straight, in-line with differential. Then give it one good whack on outer tip of axle with large brass, plastic or wood mallet even a log will work. Just don’t hit with iron/steel hammer or you may damage tip of axle teeth.
15. Insert the outboard axle into the steering knuckle. Prior to, I use my fingers to grease axle bearing & bushing.
16. Pull the upper and lower arms together to set the ball joint. Torque the ball joint nut to 81 ft lbs. Install cotter pin.
Tip: Jack up LCA as needed. Pulling down on UCA to thread ball joint nut during assemble. Tighten nut more, if necessary to get carter key in place.
17. I always check hub flange to snap ring gap here. Replace snap ring as need to get proper gap or if any doubt of condition of ring. I get gap as tight as possible every time, using puller to pull axle.
18. Tap grease cap back on. Note: If seat of grease cap is bent or nicked replace to get good water tight seal to hub flange.
19. Install brake caliper & line, abs sensor and tire.
20. Remove from jack stand, torque lug nuts to 97lb-ftlb.
If rebooting:
FSM states use the SST tool to tighten band clamp around boot. I found most Toyota & Lexus shops just use the K-D No 424 boot clamp pliers. I've use a standard clamp crimp tool but the K - D No. 424 works better. Don't over tighten, note FSM has gap between crimp of band. Keep an eye on boot for weeping, over time as you drive. If it weeps a bit of lube, simple retighten just a bit with your tool.
Tip: I wipe down all exposed metal with marine grease even ball joint nut shaft, makes future work easier.
using short cut.