CV Swap / Wheel Bearings / AHC Lift / Other Needed Items??? (1 Viewer)

[BillZ260]

Hey all,

I've had my LX for almost a month now, everything mechanically seems good, however my driverside CV Shaft is going out, it's grinding under load when I turn right. I've ordered a pair of CVJ reman'd OEM shafts and a new set of wheel bearing just to have everything upfront nice and new. The brakes are ok for now, but wondering if there is any other "while I'm at it" maintenance I should plan on while I have it apart? Like some seals or whatever? I'm new to this truck, and can tackle whatever is needed, I just need to know what it is

Also planning the AHC Spacer lift and a diff drop, when I do this, I'll flush the AHC system and try to ballance it out, I'm guessing I may need the King Springs to achieve this? Has anyone had to bump up their torsion bars to the medium duty?

Also, is there a super secret hidden thread on LC/LX CV shaft swap threads? I've found zero, there are a couple on tundras, if everything is pretty similar then I'm ok. I'm just having a hard time believeing there isn't one out there yet. Just wondering.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[TxGuidedExpeditions]

Just skip the "re-booting" process and go #1-#8, then #23 to finish. Read through the thread to get any good tips from other members. Include front sway bar links if worn while doing your work. A FSM would be definitely pay for itself, I would suggest you pick one up if you can.

CV Boots Replaced with directions

Wheel Bearing; FSM Torque to Light or just Right.

Front Bearing Replacement

 

[jemsec]

If you want piece of mind and long service use only OEM axles.

 

[BillZ260]

Perfect, I'll review and let you know how it goes, thanks so much.

Also, I'm using oem remanufactured axles.

 

[2001LC]

Good choice, CVJ only rebuilds OEM and only takes OEM cores.

When doing your search's it's helpful to use Toyota part terms like "Front Drive Shaft" as well as street name "CV". Just one more thing (terms) the FSM is good for.

Make sure dust seal outboard and dust cover inboard are on each end of front drive shafts.
Here's outboard dust seal:

Here's Inboard Dust cover:

Since your doing front drive shafts and wheel bearing, go ahead and pull off steering knuckle. Then you can give the axle needle bearings & bushings a really good cleaning and inspection. I just use Mobil one synthetic wheel bearing #2 on Needle bearing & bushing. Factory calls for #1 synthetic lithium soap base grease.

Then replace oil seal with a new one.

 

[2001LC]

The dust cover oil seal & gasket aren't often replaced. These protect ABS sensor and act as dust shield for large inboard wheel bearing oil seal:

Most everyone replace the large inboard bearing oil seal:

There is also a gasket goes between wheel hub & flange. Make sure to file flat any old tooling marks made by improper pounding on hub flange. This insures a good flat surface for gasket to seal. Of course file if needed before cleaning.

If hub flange teeth are worn it's best to replace ~$50 ea. In most cases they should be replace when new/rebuilt axle (front Drive shafts) are installed.

These teeth are half gone yielding backlash between axle and wheel hub flange, zero backlash is what you want.
Teeth get worn due to wheel bearing set to loose and snap ring gap set to wide. Which sets up a sawing action on teeth. Hub metal is softer than the axle, but unfortunately rebuilt front drive shaft axle general are worn a bit. So some backlash is to be expected.

I like to really pull on axle hard to get snap ring gap just a s tight as I can, can't be to tight. FSM spec less than .20mm.

This one is to loose at .23mm, which I' would have not know without puller setup. Installing next snap ring size up form factory ring, brought this down to .003 mm.

Notes on greases seen in pictures: Red is Mobil one synthetic wheel bearing grease. Back is grease that comes on OEM steering knuckle oil seal. Blue is marine grease which I like to spread on surface to stop corrosion and reduce water entry, it not used for lubrication.

 

[BillZ260]

Awesome detail! I love forums! If all my parts come in in time, planning on taking Thanksgiving week off to get all this done, actually looking forward to it!

 

[BillZ260]

Anyone NOT use the Heavy Steel Sleeve Spacers for their AHC lift brackets? I'm finding they are about 1/4" too long to fit inside the lift bracket/original bracket when all fit up. I'm ok cutting it down, just want to make sure i'm doing the right thing.

 

[Greenbean]

All the pics and instructions and advice.

You are my new hero!

 

[BillZ260]

For clarification here's a pic. Sleeve won't fit, and is right at .250 longer than the sleeve in the bottom of the shock. You can see the layout marks on the left side, that is the length of the sleeve in the shock.

 

[BillZ260]

DD's link for ref 2-2.5" AHC Lift Using King Coils & Shock Spacers

I finished up, everything up front was pretty straight forward and didn't run into any real issues at all, so lift spacers, axles, new rotors / pads, and wheel bearings all done.

The rear was a little different, on both sides i broke bolts on the sway bar brackets. One i was able to drill and re-tap same size, on the other side i had to go up a size, which i'll probably end up doing all 4 bolts the larger size. Also broke one wheel stud, lots of corrosion from those Iowa winders. After all that was attended to, I made a bracket similar to DD's and marked 2" and 2.5" for future ref in case I want to adjust it some. I don't know if the ratio of movement of the bolt is 1:1 on amount of lift but I did it for reference later.

Everything seems to be working and the clicking is gone. I'll keep and eye on everyting to make sure the seals are all doing their job, but so far, i'm pretty happy. I have a Diff Lowering Bracket on the way, and I still need to tune up the ACH system, waiting on fresh fluid and getting XP loaded on an old vista laptop.

Thanks for all the input guys, super huge help!

 

[BillZ260]

Drivers side seal between the differential tube and the new CV shaft is dripping about 3-4 drops after a trip, do you think the shaft isn't fully seated? I know in the steering knuckle side, it's set correctly.

 

[2001LC]

Most likely seal.

This leak is from poor install where seal is not square in it's seat. The Ft Dr Shaft is seated properly in differential in this picture:

 

[BillZ260]

I left the original seals in, they looked good, no cracking or tears or anything. Could I have torn it when installing the shaft? I have new seals, but didn't install because the originals looked like new.

 

[2001LC]

If reusing same front drive shaft and seal "If look good" I'd just leave it in also. But when replacing front drive shaft I would replace seal, so they seat together. Remember to use gear lube on outside of seal to aid in seating in tube, then grease lip of seal before install of Fr. Dr. Sh.

 

[BillZ260]

The leak isn't going away, I had my fingers crossed I guess I'll tear into it tonight and see how fast I can swap seals. At lease I have a back up ride

 

[2001LC]

I'll bet you can get to the seal in 20 minutes using short cut.

 

[BillZ260]

I'll bet you can get to the seal in 20 minutes using short cut.

Don't be a tease! What's the short cut!?

 

[2001LC]

If only replace front different oil seal and/or inboard front drive shaft dust cover. There is no need to removing axle from steering knuckle. Skip: 2, 3, 9, 15, 17 & 18.

1. Block rear tires. Break wheel lug nuts’ loose. Jack up one side of the vehicle, use jack stand under frame for safety & support. Remove tire. Keep the side you are working on at least 4” higher to keep from losing differential fluid after pulling axle.

Tip: I keep a jack under the LCA, to raise and lower as needed.

2. Remove the hub grease cap with a pair of channels-locks, gently rocking off grease cap.

3. Remove the outer axle snap ring.

4. Remove the ABS sensor harness by unplugging sensor from under hood and unclipping & bolting (9lb-ft) from top bracket(s), leaving wheel sensor in knuckle is one option I find a bit faster. You can also work from bottom up removing sensor from knuckle (71in-lbf).

5. Remove brake line from bracket to get out of way. Caution; hold small brake line bracket with wrench, while remove retaining bolt (21ft-lbf). If frozen I just remove main bracket from knuckle. Remove the brake caliper (2 bolts 90ft-lbf) and hang it up out of the way with zip ties, strap or rope.

6. Remove the upper ball joint with a pitman arm puller.

7. Unseat front drive shaft from differential. Go underneath (FSM method) with brass drift and five pound sledge hammer. Place drift on ridge of inboard front drive shaft and knock out of differential. One good hit usually does the job nicely. If you don’t have brass drift, you can use two pray bars, but be care not to bend dust cover.

8. Pull inboard axle out of differential.

9. Pull outboard axle out of steering knuckle.

Tip: In order to clear the shock mount and the stabilizer mount, I turned the steering wheel to align the outboard boot with maximum clearance between the two if needed.

Note: PS is most difficult to clear. Removing tie rod bracket (two bolt) or TRE ball joint makes this easier.

Tip: Cover axle needle bearing & bushing in back of steering knuckle area with rage to keep out dust/grim while working.

10. Remove old seal, observing how it’s seated flush in differential.

11. Apply gear lube to outside of new seal, before seating in differential (tube on DS).

12. Remove old and install new inboard axle snap ring on the end of axle. Apply MP grease to hold snap ring in position, with the opening pointed down.

13. Apply MP grease to lip of differential oil seal before installing Front Drive Shaft axle into differential

14. Insert axle into differential: I just simple guide front drive shaft in with snap ring open end pointed down. I'm very carefully not to nick or knock seal out of place, as I insert axle shaft. Slightly twisting counter & clockwise too line up teeth of inboard axle with female end of differential teeth. Pushing in as far as one can. Then too seat that last ~1/4"; hold front drive shaft very straight, in-line with differential. Then give it one good whack on outer tip of axle with large brass, plastic or wood mallet even a log will work. Just don’t hit with iron/steel hammer or you may damage tip of axle teeth.

15. Insert the outboard axle into the steering knuckle. Prior to, I use my fingers to grease axle bearing & bushing.

16. Pull the upper and lower arms together to set the ball joint. Torque the ball joint nut to 81 ft lbs. Install cotter pin.

Tip: Jack up LCA as needed. Pulling down on UCA to thread ball joint nut during assemble. Tighten nut more, if necessary to get carter key in place.

17. I always check hub flange to snap ring gap here. Replace snap ring as need to get proper gap or if any doubt of condition of ring. I get gap as tight as possible every time, using puller to pull axle.

18. Tap grease cap back on. Note: If seat of grease cap is bent or nicked replace to get good water tight seal to hub flange.

19. Install brake caliper & line, abs sensor and tire.

20. Remove from jack stand, torque lug nuts to 97lb-ftlb.


If rebooting:


FSM states use the SST tool to tighten band clamp around boot. I found most Toyota & Lexus shops just use the K-D No 424 boot clamp pliers. I've use a standard clamp crimp tool but the K - D No. 424 works better. Don't over tighten, note FSM has gap between crimp of band. Keep an eye on boot for weeping, over time as you drive. If it weeps a bit of lube, simple retighten just a bit with your tool.


Tip: I wipe down all exposed metal with marine grease even ball joint nut shaft, makes future work easier.

 

[oakback]

If reusing same front drive shaft and seal "If look good" I'd just leave it in also. But when replacing front drive shaft I would replace seal, so they seat together. Remember to use gear lube on outside of seal to aid in seating in tube, then grease lip of seal before install of Fr. Dr. Sh.

I'm about to replace my driver's side CV. What seal are you talking about here? The ring-looking one on the diff-side of the axle (I see this on the new axle)?