2-2.5" AHC Lift Using King Coils & Shock Spacers (5 Viewers)

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DirtDawg

"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
Joined
Jun 28, 2013
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The 405


Well all my parts finally showed up and this past weekend I lifted my LX. My goal was to have a 2-2.5" lift (using the AHC system), while keeping close to stock travel characteristics and stock neutral pressures.

Components Installed:
KING KTRS-79 Coils (sourced from eBay seller sparesbox_auto)
AHC Shock Spacers (sourced here: AHC Spacers - Possible Group buy)
2 x front sway bar links
2 x rear sway bar links
2 x rear sway bar bushings

Front Spacer Install:
  1. Remove the wheel & tire
  2. Unbolt the sway-bar
  3. Unbolt the bottom bolt of the shock
  4. Using a pitman arm puller (or similar), detach the knuckle from the upper ball joint. This allows the lower control arm to droop low enough for you to insert the spacer.
  5. You need to drill a 1/2" hole to bolt the spacer to the lower shock mount. Bolt up the spacer through the bottom bolt so you can locate where to drill. I used a step-up bit and made quick work of it.
  6. Once the hole is drilled, go ahead and bolt it all up. Remember to use the included spacer on the lower bolt. (I had to shave quite a bit of material off of the spacer in order for it to fit.)
  7. Reassemble upper bj to knuckle and sway bar.
  8. Remount wheel & tire
  9. Your'e all set. Remember that this alone will not change the height of the vehicle. The AHC will just compress the shock further, so be sure to adjust the height sensor.


Front Sensor Modification:
  1. To lift the front of the vehicle you need to modify the linkages to the height sensor. The linkage is basically two 'ball joints' connected by a rod. One side is reverse thread. You need to shorten that rod in order to lift the vehicle.
  2. There are different methods to shorten the rod. You can simply just screw them all the way in, but this will only net about 1". The other option is to cut the rod shorter on both sides so the joints can be screwed all the way down, making it as short as possible. I did a mixture of the two and only cut the normal-thread side, then tightened down the joint on said side. The other side I simply just screwed down all the way. This netted me about 2.25" of lift in the front.


Rear Spring and Spacer Install:
  1. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and put jack stands under the vehicle. Remove tires & wheels from both sides.
  2. Unbolt the lower shock mounts and the sway bar. Disconnect both. I also disconnected the linkage to my rear height sensor at the time as to not damage it.
  3. Go ahead and flex the axle to replace the coils. I found that a jack under one side of the axle and a friend pushing down on the other, practically causes the coil to fall out. Swap out each side that way.
  4. The rear shock spacer is simple, just droop the axle lower than the bottom eyelet of the shock (enough to fit the spacer in), rotate the eyelet 90*, and bolt up the rear spacer.
  5. Bolt back up the sway bar and remount the wheels and tires. Lower vehicle.



Rear Sensor Modification:
  1. Two methods of adjustment here, first, you can move the linkage all the way up on the adjustment slot, but this only netted me about 1". To go higher, you need to make a bracket that moves the linkage up higher. I simply used a 1" x 6" strip of sheet metal with holes and an adjustment slot drilled in it.


Correcting Neutral Pressures:
  1. First I started up tech stream and got my baseline pressures (going from L to N). First pressures read front: 8.3 / rear: 7.1. This was after coming from stock height with pressure in spec. I also lowered the rear by 1/2" after this reading because it was a little too high for my satisfaction. We're looking for front: 6.9 +/- 0.5 and rear: 5.6-6.7
  2. I cranked the T-bars 2 turns, drove around the block and booted back up tech stream. Front: 7.9 / rear: 6.7
  3. 3 more turns, front: 7.1 / rear: 6.5
  4. 1 1/2 turns, front: 6.9 / rear: 6.5 (now were getting somewhere) I decided that on a worn out system I would want to get my front pressures just a little lower.
  5. 1 1/2 more turns and were at front: 6.5 / rear: 6.5
Make sure to get an alignment after changing the front height of your LX

Before:


After:


So in the end I still have full range of my AHC shocks, no bottoming out, while maintaining stock pressures. As for ride quality, I would say that it is just a comfortable as before, but with a firmer ride. The front is just as cushy, while the back is firmer, but still handles the bumps well. I think next weekend I am going to reinstall my rear 30mm spacers to see if I can lower my rear pressure to a good level. I believe the king springs may work better with a lower pressure. I gained 2.25" in the front and 2.5" in the rear. No issues with vibrations or anything else. The spacers will creak a little at first 'til they settle in. Also my CVs are slinging grease due to the change in angle, but I have a reboot sitting in the garage for another day.

 
Review of the King KTSR-79 AHC Springs:

In my opinion, the rear end of my LX has always been way to soft and had too much roll, I prefer a firmer spring. With that being said, at a lifted height, the king springs ride like a dream. They can be firm on certain bumps, but have not been jarring. I still would like to lower my rear pressures a little more to see how it affects the springs performance. I will probably update the review after doing that. I cannot speak how they would fair in a stock setting, but I would imagine pretty firm. At 2.5" of height I am right at spec neutral pressure in the rear with these coils. I would recommend these to anyone looking to lift their LX while maintaining a comfortable sporty suspension, or anyone planning on running extra weight.
 
Last edited:
What about a diff drop to put your CVs back to proper angle?

Awesome write up! Just a heads up, you will likely experience premature CV failure if you don't install a diff drop from increased drive angles and changed geometry.
Ive considered this, my lifted 4Runner had a diff drop. There is some speculation out there however about whether it is necessary or not. There are some lifted trucks out there without diff drops, reporting no issues after plenty of miles. Also I remember reading that a certain LC shop didn't recommend them. Plus I don't really know if the loss in ground clearance is worth the minimal change in CV angle. But if I see a failure or develop an issue I'll be throwing one on. Im about to take it on the real test; A 2000 mile trip around Colorado in 2 weeks.
 
Thanks for this writeup. Already have the King springs and spring spacers ready to install, and just ordered the AHC shock spacers.

I have a ton of weight in the rear of my truck (drawers, fridge, rear bumper, RTT) so i'm thinking the ride will be smooth if the king springs work as advertised. Will report back.
 
Thanks for this writeup. Already have the King springs and spring spacers ready to install, and just ordered the AHC shock spacers.

I have a ton of weight in the rear of my truck (drawers, fridge, rear bumper, RTT) so i'm thinking the ride will be smooth if the king springs work as advertised. Will report back.
I think the king springs will work great! Though if your gonna run lifted with all that weight I would recommend using a coil spacer with the springs.
 
I am, it's in my post (i called them spring spacers).

FYI the truck KIND OF handles all that weight now, it just sometimes slips into low mode, and the only fix is to get everyone out and let it adjust up.
 
I am, it's in my post (i called them spring spacers).
Be sure to post your results! I'd like to see where your pressures end up with the extr weight.
 
I'm missing the front travel droop limit on this set up. If your spacing the front arms down from the shock eye and the shock is the travel limiter then how is the front not over drooping? Unless I'm missing something this should be a CV killer, diff drop or not.
 
The hydraulic shocks piston moves down in its range of travel when doing a sensor lift. The shock spacers returns the piston back to its normal, central travel, location. This regains the stock travel range.

Where a normal vehicle has gas charged shocks we have a simple hydraulic linear actuator. Our "shock" is the gas charged globes that are in line with the hydraulic fluid.
 
Another thing to remember is that these CVs aren't toothpicks, regardless what most people believe on here. I'm all for the over-maintenance that everyone partakes in on here, but not running a diff drop, or over extending your down travel are usually not going to be the death of your axles. I predict that most axles replaced on the forum (usually from "clicking") were prone to failure at some point. I abused the axles in my 4Runner... ran with the boots ripped and no grease for about 60k before rebooting and even then they were still in great shape. Now of course they saw less stress, being part time, but regardless the 100 series axles are stronger for this fact. I believe there has only been one or two catastrophic CV failures on this forum and that was from wheeling them hard.
 
Another thing to remember is that these CVs aren't toothpicks, regardless what most people believe on here. I'm all for the over-maintenance that everyone partakes in on here, but not running a diff drop, or over extending your down travel are usually not going to be the death of your axles. I predict that most axles replaced on the forum (usually from "clicking") were prone to failure at some point. I abused the axles in my 4Runner... ran with the boots ripped and no grease for about 60k before rebooting and even then they were still in great shape. Now of course they saw less stress, being part time, but regardless the 100 series axles are stronger for this fact. I believe there has only been one or two catastrophic CV failures on this forum and that was from wheeling them hard.


Cool... I just got my spacers in the mail today... looking forward to lifting things a bit! thanks for the write up...what's with the drilling? I didn't know these required any drilling...
 
The hydraulic shocks piston moves down in its range of travel when doing a sensor lift. The shock spacers returns the piston back to its normal, central travel, location. This regains the stock travel range.

Where a normal vehicle has gas charged shocks we have a simple hydraulic linear actuator. Our "shock" is the gas charged globes that are in line with the hydraulic fluid.

So the a-arm does not droop any lower due the compensation at the sensor?
 
You have to drill to install this bolt I'm pointing at. It keeps the spacer locked down onto the lower control arm, preventing it from pivoting at the old actuator mounting point.

image.jpeg
 

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