CV Re-Boot Parts Question

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LockedNLoaded

LockedNLoaded

Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Threads
37
Messages
532
Location
Raleigh, NC
Guys, its time to re-boot both of my CV's. Since I will already be in there I want to address anything else that could be an potential issue later down the road. Currently sitting around 186K FWIW. So I thought I would replace the brakes (front and back), rotors, and wheel bearings. Now on the wheel bearings I really have no reason to replace them per say, as I am not aware of any issues. I just thought it would be a good idea to do while I am in there. If I am wrong in thinking this let me know.

Below is a list of the parts I was planning on replacing. Is there anything else I should replace while I am in there? Thanks guys!



ROTOR
Part Number: 42431-60281

BRAKE PADS
Part Number: 04466-60070

ROTOR
Part Number: 43512-60171

FRONT PADS
Part Number: 04465-60220

WASHER
Part Number: 90215-42025

WASHER GASKET
Part Number: 43422-60070

SNAP RING
Part Number: 90520-31007

DUST CAP
Part Number: 43423-35010

INNER BEARING WASHER
Part Number: 90214-42030

BOOTS
Part Number: 04427-60120

OUTER BEARING, LEFT
Part Number: 90080-36067

INNER BEARING, LEFT
Part Number: 90080-36098

STABILIZER LINK UPPER BUSHING
Part Number: 90948-01003
 
I'm seeing a number of post "while I'm in there" and I commend you all.

I'd also say (in your case) take a close look at axle & hub flange "teeth" any wear/play will cause clunk N to D. Also cone washers for wear or damage and hub flange nuts. Hub flange nuts are not reusable per FSM, but I do with a dab of blue locktight. There is also a large seal on shielding plate (shields back of rotor) that protects ABS wheel senor area, it's usually rusty. Don't recall it's name but it's the largest priciest seal on steering knuckle.

That said I'm not, any longer, changing stuff because I'm in there. I believe in most cases we have the best parts from the factory. I spend most of my time cleaning and reconditioning, and only changing the single parts I find, that is no longer serviceable, rather than the shot gun approach.
 
Diff seals, all snap rings. The inner should come with the reboot kit. Make sure you get the correct width outer snap ring as they come in different widths. I used the part ending in "7" (forget the whole part number).

Check the lower ball joint as well. I buggered mine up removing the knuckle so I had to replace.
 
For the snap rings, there are multiple sizes/part numbers. I ordered 2 of each size to ensure proper gap on each axle. You can see the list here:

2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Front Axle Hub - ToyotaPartsDeal.com

You have probably seen @2001LC comment in other threads that setting this gap is important, and I concur. This will limit the in/out travel of the axle and prevent wear on the hub flange and reduce/eliminate the common "driveline thunk", the subject of many threads.
 
^ Good thinking TM, he's got the best prices around for kits with quality OEM parts. I'd stick with for OEM boot kit as well, wherever you get them. As I do think they're the best rubber, with just the right type & amount of lube included. I've had mine on for ~100K miles now and couldn't be happier with them. I've also used the include band clamps, but I've 0 lift (all stock).
 
Use only Toyota boots and be sure to use McMaster Carr clamps for security. Search for their part numbers. Anything less will be an issue at some point.
 
2001LC said:
I'm seeing a number of post "while I'm in there" and I commend you all.

I'd also say (in your case) take a close look at axle & hub flange "teeth" any wear/play will cause clunk N to D. Also cone washers for wear or damage and hub flange nuts. Hub flange nuts are not reusable per FSM, but I do with a dab of blue locktight. There is also a large seal on shielding plate (shields back of rotor) that protects ABS wheel senor area, it's usually rusty. Don't recall it's name but it's the largest priciest seal on steering knuckle.

That said I'm not, any longer, changing stuff because I'm in there. I believe in most cases we have the best parts from the factory. I spend most of my time cleaning and reconditioning, and only changing the single parts I find, that is no longer serviceable, rather than the shot gun approach.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the heads up. Normally I don't replace something unless its broken, but in this case I am fairly certain the rotors are not OEM so I would like to change that. Replacing the bearings is probably not necessary, but I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them with some new ones from Toyota. Then keep the originals in case if they are ever needed on the trail for myself or someone else. Never know what you might need when you are miles away from civilization.

sdnative said:
Diff seals, all snap rings. The inner should come with the reboot kit. Make sure you get the correct width outer snap ring as they come in different widths. I used the part ending in "7" (forget the whole part number).

Check the lower ball joint as well. I buggered mine up removing the knuckle so I had to replace.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the heads up on the reboot kit. It does not list all the parts that comes with it. Will definitely order all new snap rings as well.

Trunk Monkey said:
Get the bearing kit from Cruiser Outfitters (@cruiseroutfit), has everything you need in one box (for one side). Then get the boot kit (2 again) from your local or discount parts dealer.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the suggestion. I am waiting to hear back from him.

jemsec said:
Use only Toyota boots and be sure to use McMaster Carr clamps for security. Search for their part numbers. Anything less will be an issue at some point.
Click to expand...
No worries only using Toyota OEM parts. Though I will look into these McMaster Carr clamps.



Really appreciate all the help guys!!
 
That's an interesting concept, but I would be shocked if Toyota would approve use on those on SUV's that are likely to see any off road action. I wish I could see those in person.
 
bucfl said:
Just found this while searching...very ineresting.
Toyota Genuine Parts: Split Boot Kits
Click to expand...

LockedNLoaded said:
That's an interesting concept, but I would be shocked if Toyota would approve use on those on SUV's that are likely to see any off road action. I wish I could see those in person.
Click to expand...
They're more of a bandaid meant to get you by until you can get a full boot replacement. Good kit to keep in the spares box, but by no means a permanent solution.
 
DirtDawg said:
They're more of a bandaid meant to get you by until you can get a full boot replacement. Good kit to keep in the spares box, but by no means a permanent solution.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought as well. Personally I am a big believer in overkill engineering, so I would never go with an option like this.
 
LockedNLoaded said:
I appreciate the heads up. Normally I don't replace something unless its broken, but in this case I am fairly certain the rotors are not OEM so I would like to change that. Replacing the bearings is probably not necessary, but I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them with some new ones from Toyota. Then keep the originals in case if they are ever needed on the trail for myself or someone else. Never know what you might need when you are miles away from civilization.

Appreciate the heads up on the reboot kit. It does not list all the parts that comes with it. Will definitely order all new snap rings as well.


Appreciate the suggestion. I am waiting to hear back from him.

No worries only using Toyota OEM parts. Though I will look into these McMaster Carr clamps.



Really appreciate all the help guys!!
Click to expand...

These are the McMaster Carr Clamp part numbers:

http://www.mcmaster.com

#5574K25 (4-4 3/4")
#5574K16 (1-1 5/8")

Two of each for both sides.
 
Well I have everything. Got the kits from Pfran and @cruiseroutfit, plus everything else from Toyota. This weekend at ONSC we will be having a wrenching day and will get all of this done. Cant wait to drink some beers and bust a few knuckles. I do have a question, is the Slee Spindle Greese Tool absolutely necessary when we are replacing the bearings? I hope not because its too late for me to order one now and have it here for the weekend. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
No.

When pulling the axle from the wheel hub, you'll be able to grease axle bearing & bushing with your finger.

Even if axle not pulled, it's possible to press axle in far enough to expose back side and push grease in from back side. I'm not wild about this method as it may not grease needle bearings behind brass bushing.

In this picture you'll see back side, in this rig oil seal & dust seal where missing. You can see grease come out from around bushing as Slee tool was used.
Front drive shaft & knuckle seals missing.webp


Here you can see axle needle bearing & brass bushing, after I cleaned up the crud & rust.
PS Knuckle & wheel bearings assemble 005.webp




This is seal (dust seal) outboard front drive shaft) that Dealer had trouble getting part # for.
007.webp
 
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