CV axle reboot help (1 Viewer)

[sdnative]

I am in the middle of rebooting my passenger side CV axle and had some questions. I have searched and read several excellent threads on the subject and am feeling pretty good about the whole thing. Thanks to @2001LC for some valuable and informative discussion.

What is the best way to clean out the spindle bearing?

Also I know the FSM says to use NLGI #1 lithium soap base grease for this, but I am unable to find any locally. I can order online but I am trying to finish it up this weekend. Can I use NLGI #2 instead?

I use this in the wheel bearings:
Valvoline™ Multi-Purpose Grease /GM : Product Catalog - Valvoline®

and this in the U-joints:
DuraBlend™ Synthetic Blend Grease : Product Catalog - Valvoline®

Can I use either of these in the spindle bearings?

Does this look ok?

People recommend using brake cleaner to clean out the CV grease. Only issue is it doesn't work very well dissolving the grease. It just seems to blow it around. I cleaned out the outer side the best I could (used three cans of brake cleaner) but there is still grease. Is this good enough? Any harm in having a bit of brake cleaner / CV grease residue in there?

And in the process of cleaning, I lost the match mark I made on the star race. I remarked where I thought it was, but am not 100% sure. Is there a way to tell how the parts should be aligned? How critical is it that they go back in the same location?

Thanks in advance!

 

[brianrride]

FWIW, I used about three cans of brake cleaner on my passenger side and still had a little grease in there.

From what I've heard, it is important to line it all back up...but unsure if it is absolutely imperative. For future reference, I typically scribe with a dremel to mark things. Good luck, sorry not much help from me

 

[2001LC]

My first CV joints job, I also used Brake Cleaner and had same issue you're seeing. I've now put 100K miles on that front axle, without issue. The Brake Cleaner will evaporate in minutes. So as long as no grit entered while cleaning you'll be fine.

These days, I always use a degreaser from NAPA ($$), rinse with high pressure water then blow dry with high pressure air all bearings. With the needle bearings, I repeat two or three times. Most shops' don't even clean bearings, as it saves a great deal of time. They justify this by saying re-calcification. I don't subscribe to this technique, as I can't inspect clearly. Additional I've seen heavy scoring on bearing & bushing with missing seals, where bearings became contaminated.

I too, have had ink marks wash away, so I now scribe (with center punch) parts. Look really close under different lighting, you may find your mark. If not, then nothing you can do but assemble CV bearings the best you can. You'll know by excessive vibration if any issue, but I'll bet it will be fine.

You can use #2 synthetic, in the axle needle bearings and bushing. You may hear a little grown during slow turns on a cold morning, with #2. The only #1 I could find was Amsoil. Amsoil rep said, I was the only one in 20 years that bought it. Today I just use #2 Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease. Actually I use M1 for all lubes, as it's readily available and easy to remember. Make sure too replace all oil seals.

As a rule it's not advisable to use EP grease. EP (extreme pressure) is generally for low speed high pressure of heavy equipment. But if it states wheel bearing you'll be ok, just not best practice.

FSM states snap ring(s) are not reusable on either end of front drive shaft. Turn inner snap ring open gap side down during install. Replace Dust Cover (inboard) & Dust Seal (outboard) of front drive shaft if you see any damage.
Inboard:

Outboard:

Coat differential seals' outer rim (where it contacts differential) with gear lube oil to install (seat), and lip of all oil seals with your grease during assemble. This pictures happens to be DS.

 

[sdnative]

So you just clean out the spindle bearing in situ with brake cleaner and blow out with compressed air?

I am currently using the Valvoline wheel bearing grease linked above, but I may switch to Mobil1 and use it also for the spindle bearings. The Valvoline is EP and it doesn't mention high speed, but it does say for wheel bearings so it's probably ok.

I bought various sizes of c-clips for the outer (under the dust cap), and I believe the inner c-clip is included in the reboot kit from Toyota.

This is what's available locally. Would this be ok for wheel bearings, spindle bearings, u-joints (and possibly slip joints)?
Request Rejected

 

[2001LC]

Assuming your repacking wheel bearings since you mention Wheel bearing grease. Make sure to set adjusting nut tight, use FSM breakaway preload procedure with spring scale. Most common issue with bearings is shops set to lose (old school style). You'll get anywhere form ~12 to 60 ft-lbf torque to get the 9.5 to 15lb breakaway, on used wheel bearings. The 38-75in-lbf is only starting point

Replace damaged hub flange if face is damaged or teeth are worn. This damage was from snap ring gap above .2mm.

Also replace snap ring with needed thickness and or if damaged, and cone washers also if damaged.
This damager was from gap being set wider than .2mm. I set mine so tight I can't measure as my feel gauge only goes down to .04mm, can't be too tight. or it will not fit in groove.

I use blue lock-tight on hub flange nuts if not replaced (FSM states not reusable). After torqueing nuts to spec, pulled out the axle best you can to check snap ring gap. Gap must be less than .2MM. I replace with thickest snap ring I can fit in once pulled very tight. Here some different ways to pull, puller being best.

 

[2001LC]

So you just clean out the spindle bearing in situ with brake cleaner and blow out with compressed air?

I am currently using the Valvoline wheel bearing grease linked above, but I may switch to Mobil1 and use it also for the spindle bearings. The Valvoline is EP and it doesn't mention high speed, but it does say for wheel bearings so it's probably ok.

I bought various sizes of c-clips for the outer (under the dust cap), and I believe the inner c-clip is included in the reboot kit from Toyota.

This is what's available locally. Would this be ok for wheel bearings, spindle bearings, u-joints (and possibly slip joints)?
Request Rejected

No, these days I use a Degrease found at NAPA in gallon container, it's pricy ~$35. I save old degreaser (grim settle to bottom of jug) and reuse on first cleaning. I finish-up with fresh degreaser on final cleaning.

That is the new package for Mobil 1 and is what I use for all my grease needs.

 

[2001LC]

Here is one more picture of damaged hub, where teeth are worn:

 

[sdnative]

The brake cleaner removed some of the paint on the outside of the outer joint housing. Big deal? Should I try to repaint or leave it as-is?

 

[bucfl]

I used purple power in a spray bottle and compressed air to clean it out. Used redline Cv grease.

 

[sdnative]

Got the axle together and installled in the diff. Unfortunately the outer shaft won't go into the hub without poping the knuckle off the lower balljoint, which is being very stubborn. When I removed it, I took the diff side out first which gave me more room to move. I didn't want to reinstall in that order as I didn't want to risk buggering up the diff seal.

 

[bwell]

Bit off subject... How do you like the TJM shocks?

 

[NOSAJ]

I use brake cleaner for anything I can't get into the parts washer. I used to buy the napa degreaser but now all that is in my parts washer is diesel fuel. It cleans great and it's cheap compared to napa stuff. $2.17 a gallon here. I too had my mating paint marks disappear and I now have a new vibration. I'm not sure if it is the axles yet or something else I did at the same time. The axles, new tires, and some suspension changes were all done at the same time. Let me know if you have any vibration out of the axles since your not sure of your mating marks. Thanks!

 

[sdnative]

View attachment 1316023

View attachment 1316024

I didn't use that much grease, should I have? Won't the grease contaminate the gear oil?

I basically wiped the seal down with gear oil to lubricate it while installing the seal and while sliding in the axle.

 

[sdnative]

Bit off subject... How do you like the TJM shocks?

I like them, for the most part. I was happy with them when I first installed them on my mostly stock truck. I have since added some weight, and while they still do pretty good I feel they are a bit soft.

 

[sdnative]

Well, finally got the knuckle separated from the lower ball joint. In the process the tongue part of the ball joint separator (part that pushes on the ball joint bolt) slipped off and rounded part of the threads. I also noticed there is a little up/down play I can detect by hand. So I figure I should replace it. Ended up ordering one from the local Napa for $45. Brand is Altrom ATM SB3812. Website says it's a 555, we will see.

 

[mattafact]

Apparently the duralast from autozone are also 555 if the Napa ones don't pan out.

 

[2001LC]

I didn't use that much grease, should I have? Won't the grease contaminate the gear oil?

I basically wiped the seal down with gear oil to lubricate it while installing the seal and while sliding in the axle.

FSM states use grease on lip of seal prior to installing front drive shaft. The small amount of grease that may end up in gear oil won't hurt. I did get a "little" carried away with grease on outside of seal. Not being sure I had seal set in deep enough to clear dust cover, so I add extra grease.

 

[sdnative]

Apparently the duralast from autozone are also 555 if the Napa ones don't pan out.

That appears to be the same part at almost double the price

 

[sdnative]

 

[sdnative]

I got the ball joint installed, but when I went to install the grease fitting I realized it wasn't in the box. I had some 1/4"-28 and 6mm fittings in my parts drawers, but the threads appeared to be too large. I assume the threads are metric, so 5mm? None of the parts stores had 5mm, so I had to special order another ball joint just to get the fitting.

Questions:
is 5mm a common size for these? All of the parts stores only have the 1/4" and 6mm.

I had to take the boot off to install the ball joint and saw that it had some grease. Is this considered "greased" and I shouldn't need to grease it further, or is the grease just to protect it while sitting on the shelf in the warehouse? I plan on greasing it when I get the correct fitting, but is it safe to drive for a couple days until then?