CV Joints and Oil Change

[cary]

So I changed the oil last night (8,000 mile UOA will be forthcoming) prior to taking a 1200 mile trip to southern California this weekend. I would have pushed the oil further but decided that I really needed to grease the CV Joints and Spline as they have not been done in 15,000 miles (were last done by dealer). My observations:

1) The dealer only put 2 pumps in each Zerk. The result was that when I pumped the CV joints, I had to give about 10 pumps to get fresh grease through. The amount of grease in the CV's was a pathetic dribble, approximately a toothpick amount came out of each CV before the new grease showed up.

2) The splines were dry. I started pumping, carefully watching for the joint to expand. It never did. I was getting concerned after 15 pumps, stopped, pulled the zirk and nothing came out. Put in 10 more strokes, pulled the zerk again, nothing came out. Called it a day. I test drove and no vibration so I assume I am fine.

3) Bottom line is don't trust the dealer even to get lube in these things.

As a note, I noticed that my truck is starting to leak a bit. I may go to redline oil at the next oil interval to see if the Easter based oil (which swells seals) helps the minor leaking.

Cary

 

[Hltoppr]

IIRC the recommended amount of grease is about 2 pumps every oil change...

-H-

 

[firetruck41]

Just a clarification, do you mean the driveshafts and U-joints, or do you mean the Birfield (CV) joint?
For the U joints I squirt until I get some old grease coming out. The driveshaft, I put in 2-4 pumps worth of grease. I haven't put any in the plugs for the birfield (CV) yet, I just did the repack, IIRC don't fill those all the way either, a few squirts should keep 'em maintined.

 

[cary]

You are correct about the driveshafts. I went more than a couple of squirts because the slipjoints were completely dry and my observation of the U-joints indicated that they had not been lubed regularly. I felt comfortable with this given I did not see any shaft movement and having pulled the zerk, none came back out (but I could see fresh in there). Anybody see any problem that would cause these to be overfilled from this method?

Cary

 

[landtoy80]

<I may go to redline oil at the next oil interval to see if the Easter based oil (which swells seals) helps the minor leaking.>

Cary,
Easter oil, is that a Plam Oil or Holy Oil? I don't think Holy Water or Oil will help your leaks but with faith, anything is possible

Where is your leak/s ?

 

[IdahoDoug]

Cary,

The concern on the splines is a simple one. The splines are tight tolerances and when the suspension compresses when you drive away, the male part of the shaft will act as a piston and when it hits the thick grease the impact is severe to the transfer case and diff. The grease cannot get out of the splines quickly. Serious leverage, my boy. So, a few squirts and a little drive followed by a few more squirts would be best to allow the shaft to move and coat the splines if an owner is concerned about dry splines from lack of lube. In fact, if the shaft begins to elongate, you should carefully drive off to allow the grease to move around and excess to squeeze out.

DougM

 

[cruiserdan]

Observation:

20 years ago I messed up the front driveshaft on my then new '84 Xtra cab truck.

I gave it a "healthy" shot of grease and the freeze plug in the yoke end promptly blew out after about 10 miles....


Good thing I had "warranty coverage" ( ) as the freeze plug was not serviced and I had to get a new driveshaft..........

 

[cary]

Well I am figuring I am okay since there was not elongation and I pulled the zerk and nothing came out. The hydrolocking of the shaft makes sense.

The oil leak looks like the pan and rear main seal. Ester based oils cause seals to soften and swell and often will stop leaks.

Cary

 

[landtoy80]

Try and tighten the bolts. It helped with mine along with the Rotella T syn.