CV Boots Replaced with directions (5 Viewers)

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The outer end of the axle slides out the hub by just removing the outer snap ring? no need to remove the 6 nuts and special large nut?

thanks.

You are correct, those 6 nuts and large nut for bearing/rotor service only.

No need to touch for CV's... just the snap ring.
 
I'm sitting at the dealer getting my boots replaced under my platinum warranty. They weren't torn, but throwing grease everywhere as they were loose. They told me to come and get it at 3pm and when I was on my way they called me to say they can't get the right side back in. So here I sit reading threads thinking I can help them get it back together:crybaby:

I hope they marked it before disassembling:hmm:
 
Question- Is there any part of this process, putting it back together, where you run the risk of "bearings falling out" because you can't get something in? That's the explanation I got yesterday from the service lead tech as I was picking up my loaner. He said they would grease the hell out of something, try to put something in, it wouldn't work and then the bearings would fall out.

Didn't make sense to me but I have never done this procedure.
 
Don't see what bearings they would be talking about unless they tore into the hub...but that would be unnecessary and totally out of the way for replacing CV's. If they are talking about the CV axle's bearings then they probably put the axle back together all wrong. I just don't see/know what bearings they are talking about. You slide the axle out and back in. Nothing to it...
 
You are correct, those 6 nuts and large nut for bearing/rotor service only.

No need to touch for CV's... just the snap ring.

Question- Is there any part of this process, putting it back together, where you run the risk of "bearings falling out" because you can't get something in? That's the explanation I got yesterday from the service lead tech as I was picking up my loaner. He said they would grease the hell out of something, try to put something in, it wouldn't work and then the bearings would fall out.

Didn't make sense to me but I have never done this procedure.

Don't see what bearings they would be talking about unless they tore into the hub...but that would be unnecessary and totally out of the way for replacing CV's. If they are talking about the CV axle's bearings then they probably put the axle back together all wrong. I just don't see/know what bearings they are talking about. You slide the axle out and back in. Nothing to it...

Maybe they undid the 6 nuts for the wheel bearings... when they put the CV's axle through the hub it pokes the bearings out. I have not a clue
 
Looking at the FSM, they must be talking about the tulip (or inboard joint) and the 6 balls inside. What I don't get is why it might not go back together unless it has something to do with the matchmarks. Do you know why it's marked? Can it go back together any other way or is that the only way and that's why it should be marked?

These are partial instructions from the FSM:
ASSEMBLE FRONT AXLE INBOARD JOINT SET

(a) Install the cage to the outboard joint shaft.
NOTICE:Insert the cage with its smaller inner diameter
side facing the outboard joint.

(b) Align the matchmarks placed before removal.

(c) Install the inner race.

(d) Using a snap ring expander, install a new snap ring.

(e) Align the matchmarks placed before removal, and
install the cage to the inner race.

(f) Install the 6 balls.
HINT:Apply grease onto the balls to keep them from
falling.

(g) Pack the inboard joint tulip and boot with grease in
the boot kit.Standard grease capacity:
293 to 303 g (10.3 to 10.7 oz.)

(h) Align matchmarks placed before removal, and
install the inboard joint tulip to the outboard joint
shaft.

(i) Install a new snap ring.
 
Looking at the FSM, they must be talking about the tulip (or inboard joint) and the 6 balls inside. What I don't get is why it might not go back together unless it has something to do with the matchmarks. Do you know why it's marked? Can it go back together any other way or is that the only way and that's why it should be marked?

The inner joint cage and race need to be aligned properly or it won't have full movement. The matchmarks make it easy to align correctly, and they make sure you're putting parts that are worn together back together that way. However, if you didn't have the matchmarks, it's still easy to get it back together fine as long as you have the cage and race aligned properly.

I know this b/c I had to do it without matchmarks - I had marked it in indelible ink but after cleaning everything the matchmarks were lost.
 
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awesome write up. i just did mine this past weekend and i found out that using a air hammer on the axle to re-install saved alot of time. it had a dimple in it already to help align.
 
I had my axles replaced and now my diff is leaking where the axles insert. Any sugestions I can pass on to the mechanic before he tears into it again? Is there a bearing or seal he could have tweaked or just poor job reseating the axles?
 
I had my axles replaced and now my diff is leaking where the axles insert. Any sugestions I can pass on to the mechanic before he tears into it again? Is there a bearing or seal he could have tweaked or just poor job reseating the axles?

Replace the seal cautiously, make sure not to drive seal in to deep. IIRC seal should be flush with outside of Differential. Apply a small amount of gear lube to lip of seal and carefully replace axle. Done:beer::beer::beer:
 
i replaced my DS CV AXLE about a month ago and the diff was leaking.. i changed the seal and problem solved!!!
 
can this be put in the FAQ?

One of my boots is torn pretty good and I doubt there is any grease left in there, is it unfit to drive at all in that condition?

Does everyone recommend replacing the diff seal when doing this job?
 
Does everyone recommend replacing the diff seal when doing this job?

It's easy enough while the axle is out, you just as well with your miles. That said I've not seen one leak. You may want to search the board for leaky seals first.
 
Couldn't be worse than this persons boot.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
image-307630794.jpg
 
petrotk40 said:
wow, that wins. How long did they drive like that?

Not sure. It was a vehicle I checked out for a MUD member that states they replaced them. I guess not.
 
can this be put in the FAQ?

One of my boots is torn pretty good and I doubt there is any grease left in there, is it unfit to drive at all in that condition?

Does everyone recommend replacing the diff seal when doing this job?


As long as you don't drive in rain and mud it should be fine. Mine was completely separated for about 6 months. No rain, no mud and no automatic car washes during that time frame (not the wifes daily driver). Even after that time period and lots of grease slinging out, the joint was still coated and covered very well in grease.
 
Get a grease gun and pump some grease in there if you can't fix it straight away. I had to do this to mine for a while till I got time to pull them.
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Get a grease gun and pump some grease in there if you can't fix it straight away. I had to do this to mine for a while till I got time to pull them.
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That looks like a crime scene.

When I bought mine 3 months ago, I noticed boots had a few "speckles" of old grease in the area immediately surrounding my boots. No concern.

Since I added about 3/4" of lift (aka removed sag) by adjusting torsion bars. I see a little more grease coming out. Boots are in tact and seem in good shape. I'm not overly worried about it, but need to plan on repair.

How much should I plan on spending to have a shop do this for me? I am going to give ACC (Atlanta) a call shortly.
 

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