CV axles oem vs am (2 Viewers)

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Does anyone where can I find OEM axles for my 04 LC? Also part numbers if possible,
 
Couple huge threads on it. Best bet is to go to Partsouq.com and grab part number then cross reference via the interwebs for cheapest price.
 
Just looked it and up and damm .. 450-500$ for each.
 
Keep looking. Price just went up $50. But they're around for $405.
 
Keep looking. Price just went up $50. But they're around for $405.

+1 OEM

I just replaced a leaking aftermarket front passenger axle that was causing shaking when accelerating at highway speeds on an ‘00 LX470 with an OEM.

Already noticing much smoother driving.

Part Number: 43430-60040
 
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+1 OEM

I just replaced a leaking aftermarket front passenger axle that was causing shaking when accelerating at highway speeds on an ‘00 LX470 with an OEM.

Already noticing much smoother driving.

Part Number: 43430-60040
This is exactly what I have going on and why I ended up going with OEM. Found a forum member that cut me a good deal on his good inner tulips, then purchased outer axles assemblies to rebuild to the inners. Doing all other stuff (replacing lock nuts, washers, bearings, seals, hub flanges, etc.) in the front as well seeing as the PO I purchased from had a shady shop do some crappy work. So ending up being almost full front rebuild.

Hoping to get to that next weekend, should be an interesting and fun project. Did the front axles and knuckles on my old FJ60 and most have told me this is just as dirty but MUCH easier. And after much convincing from the guys here, fact of the matter is this will likely be a one and done situation. Axles should last another 50-100k with a reboot or two in there but that is cheap comparatively.
 
As always, more data points matter. I have to admit I have a slight annoyance with what always happens in these threads, re: data points. If you haven't even run an aftermarket part, why are you posting about how OEM is the only way to go? I lean strongly towards OEM as well, but c'mon. Please note, this is not directed at people who had bad luck with an aftermarket part and are letting others know.

I have CVJ reman's and no issues so far. My friend put them on his GX, no issues so far.

Front axles are easy AF to replace on these vehicles. I recommend CVJ Reman's. Or rebuild your own.
 
As always, more data points matter. I have to admit I have a slight annoyance with what always happens in these threads, re: data points. If you haven't even run an aftermarket part, why are you posting about how OEM is the only way to go? I lean strongly towards OEM as well, but c'mon. Please note, this is not directed at people who had bad luck with an aftermarket part and are letting others know.

I have CVJ reman's and no issues so far. My friend put them on his GX, no issues so far.

Front axles are easy AF to replace on these vehicles. I recommend CVJ Reman's. Or rebuild your own.
Because like anything else you rarely hear the good, mostly hear the bad.
But on top of that, this is one of multiple threads about OEM vs. AM. Many have commented that the GX guys tend to love the Cardone's, most here seem to like them with the main gripe being that putting new hub flanges on at the same time as the axles results in a fit that is TOO TIGHT. Many have to hammer or run them on multiple times to get them to be able to go on properly.

This is what new OEM hub flanges with new OEM splines looks like. Running them on with a press tool then 2-jaw puller should not be something you have to do.
 
Because like anything else you rarely hear the good, mostly hear the bad.
But on top of that, this is one of multiple threads about OEM vs. AM. Many have commented that the GX guys tend to love the Cardone's, most here seem to like them with the main gripe being that putting new hub flanges on at the same time as the axles results in a fit that is TOO TIGHT. Many have to hammer or run them on multiple times to get them to be able to go on properly.

This is what new OEM hub flanges with new OEM splines looks like. Running them on with a press tool then 2-jaw puller should not be something you have to do.

I saw your video prior to my post. I run reman's - which have been mentioned in this thread before my post. Reman's are the logical choice unless you *must* have brand new, in my personal opinion.

I still contend that having never experienced an aftermarket or reman version of the part in question and recommending a brand new oem part adds no value to a thread on part selection.
 
I saw your video prior to my post. I run reman's - which have been mentioned in this thread before my post. Reman's are the logical choice unless you *must* have brand new, in my personal opinion.

I still contend that having never experienced an aftermarket or reman version of the part in question and recommending a brand new oem part adds no value to a thread on part selection.
likewise, recommending remans based on experience of friends with a completely different vehicle that shares no parts with a 100 series doesn't add value either.

they dont reman the splines. that is the issue.
 
likewise, recommending remans based on experience of friends with a completely different vehicle that shares no parts with a 100 series doesn't add value either.

they dont reman the splines. that is the issue.
I run em bud - might want to re-read that post my friend. There are plenty of people on here with good experience with reman'd CVJ's.
 
I run aftermarket axles that were installed some less than 10k ago and they vibrate like s***. SurTrak (same as all other LAPS aside from the Cardones from what I can tell) and this seems to be the consensus with most AMs.

But the fact is that most reman's don't redo an already worn spline base. On top of that, you don't necessarily know what you are getting that is reman'd. I know CVJ says they only use toyota axles but we have not way to confirm that. Other companies like Detroit Axles say the same thing, charging customers for reman'd OEM axles yet they don't use OEM parts? That is where much of the concern comes from.

If remans are all you can afford then go for it. The cost of NEW OE axles is prohibitive for many, but those who still have OE axles choose to rebuild them with new OE parts because the ones they are rebuilding likely lasted 100k plus. Haven't really seen that from any AM axles, but like anything else you are more likely to hear the bad than the good.
 
I run aftermarket axles that were installed some less than 10k ago and they vibrate like s***. SurTrak (same as all other LAPS aside from the Cardones from what I can tell) and this seems to be the consensus with most AMs.

But the fact is that most reman's don't redo an already worn spline base. On top of that, you don't necessarily know what you are getting that is reman'd. I know CVJ says they only use toyota axles but we have not way to confirm that. Other companies like Detroit Axles say the same thing, charging customers for reman'd OEM axles yet they don't use OEM parts? That is where much of the concern comes from.

If remans are all you can afford then go for it. The cost of NEW OE axles is prohibitive for many, but those who still have OE axles choose to rebuild them with new OE parts because the ones they are rebuilding likely lasted 100k plus. Haven't really seen that from any AM axles, but like anything else you are more likely to hear the bad than the good.

I can't tell if you're responding to me, but it seems like it might be implied as much. I never said to run aftermarket and I personally would not with an axle, regardless of which vehicle I own we are talking about, but especially on this vehicle. The reviews speak for themselves.

Again, I run the CVJ's on my vehicle, contrary to what the post above says. Reman's are a different thing from aftermarket, and while I agree with you, as companies such as Detroit axle do not appear to be trustworthy, CVJ won't rebuild a non-OEM core and from all the reviews and axles I've seen, they seem to stand by it. And regarding spline health - You can check for backlash on installation, I think 2001LC discussed this earlier in the thread.

All this being said - my point is there are options other than brand new OEM that have a good reputation and I can speak for positively in my experience. Rebuild them yourself as you did, I think thats a great route too. Instead of sending back my cores to CVJ I kept them to rebuild myself as I'm running a lot more weight in my wheel tire combo and lift that your average 100 series, so I assume mine will get beat up quicker.
 
I own a machine shop why not just make our own thick fat chromoly CV axels?
Did you ever do this? I need some custom ones
 
Did you ever do this? I need some custom ones
I did not. And I sold my shop. But I still have access to a ton of stuff so I still can. Just didn’t seem like people were very interested.
 
I did not. And I sold my shop. But I still have access to a ton of stuff so I still can. Just didn’t seem like people were very interested.
I am
Have an ifs swapped 80 with some 100 series parts and need full custom anyway lol
 
Ok folks, going to stir this up again. Ever since I have put lift in, by reputable shop here in Austin, OEM CV's started leaking where axel meets boot on both outer sides. Replaced both 70k mi OEM with new OEM..........within a year, same issue. Was able to warranty them out by a couple of days. The replacement OEM is now shot after 14 months with one torn DS boot. Now time for 4th set of CV's. What to do? See my signature for build. Truck sits correctly, center of hub to bottom of fender = 21.5", maybe lower TB's a half inch? Getting tired of OEM $ plus labor. Mechanic says the rubber on OEM is crap and suggest aftermarket which he has never had come back. Dealer parts guy says I am the only one that keeps having issues.
 
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Ok folks, going to stir this up again. Ever since I have put lift in, by reputable shop here in Austin, OEM CV's started leaking where axel meets boot on both outer sides. Replaced both 70k mi OEM with new OEM..........within a year, same issue. Was able to warranty them out by a couple of days. The replacement OEM is now shot after 14 months with one torn DS boot. Now time for 4th set of CV's. What to do? See my signature for build. Truck sits correctly, maybe lower TB's a half inch? Getting tired of OEM $ plus labor. Mechanic says the rubber on OEM is crap and suggest aftermarket which he has never had come back. Dealer parts guy says I am the only one that keeps having issues.

How many miles in 14 months?
 

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