CV axels a “new” option? (1 Viewer)

[B3A5T]

Both my outer boots are torn.
They were quiet (truck had zero noises) but after letting a random shop where I got an oil change poke around, now I have a thunk when I go over bumps etc
It’s loud.

The two options where I live are: Dealership rebuild or for $60 more exchange for remanufactured. I was all about it until I read that the recent batch (yellow band) is no bueno.

Indi (who I trust) said he would not rebuild but replace with PDL brand (I’m assuming the severe duty) but I can’t find any info on them other than this website

PDL Severe Duty Axle – Autopart International

www.autopartintl.com

Dealership price: reboot: $939 replace: $948 remanufactured.

Indi: $867.

Any experience w PDL?


On a side note I may need wheel bearings.
Dealership can repack for $670 but if they are pitted or too worn it’s $1800 (ouch!)
They won’t be able to tell until they take them apart so too late and I’m in for the pain.

My indi: would replace not repack for $642 not sure with which brand.

Last I was quoted by my inde $476 for the outer tie rod. Which I think I need bc there’s lateral play on the drivers side wheel.


Any input appreciated she’s a 2001 just over 210k, running 33s 2 inch lift w 1inch spacers and diff drop.
Help this old lady get back on the road!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Never heard of PDL and unless you can find a 100 series application, I'd be skeptical they make a replacement. And even then, after 20+ years of being around, no one's found an "upgrade" CV from OEM.

I would go with new OEM CV's vs. rebooting, just due to the miles on your truck. I'd also get two full bearing kits from Cruiser Outfitters and replace everything in the hub regardless of inspection. Again, at over 200k miles, it would be time for it. Parts for the CVs will be about $400ish each, the hub kits I think are just around $100 ea. So, $5-600 per side, then figure 3 hours of labor per side.

 

[OwnerCS]

I've been running OEM yellow bands for 2 years through many off-road nightmare conditions. Still doing fine.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I was all about it until I read that the recent batch (yellow band) is no bueno.

What idiot said that? The OEM yellow band axles are the best that exist for the 100.

 

[B3A5T]

What idiot said that? The OEM yellow band axles are the best that exist for the 100.

Post #170 on this thread (found other threads too which spiked my concern).
Be nice to hear more that the yellow band are the way to go tho for the price.

Another CV Axle Discussion Thread

🤔 New OEM axles have yellow bands/clamps on the outer boot. Like this? ;) I can take off the snap ring and take a pic if you really want confirmation :)

forum.ih8mud.com

I

 

[B3A5T]

Never heard of PDL and unless you can find a 100 series application, I'd be skeptical they make a replacement. And even then, after 20+ years of being around, no one's found an "upgrade" CV from OEM.

I would go with new OEM CV's vs. rebooting, just due to the miles on your truck. I'd also get two full bearing kits from Cruiser Outfitters and replace everything in the hub regardless of inspection. Again, at over 200k miles, it would be time for it. Parts for the CVs will be about $400ish each, the hub kits I think are just around $100 ea. So, $5-600 per side, then figure 3 hours of labor per side.

Thanks! I’m gonna Ck them out bc $400 for bc CV’s each oem new sounds like a deal!

 

[G-Cat]

New, OEM, “yellow band” is the only way to go.

After an insurance claim, I spent two years (2 sets) on aftermarket CVs with nothing but clicking and popping and eventual total failure of the driver’s side.

Got 2 new OEM CVs from @OGBeno along with new OE replacement parts for everything the indie shop would touch while replacing the D/S and, almost 2 years later, everything is still perfect.

Do it right the first time is a saying for a reason.

 

[CALIFORNIAGOLD]

Please do not take this as a recommendation by any means but I am running PDL. My independent yota mechanic whom I really trust swears by them. That is the only option he will install outside of OEM. I have not been running them long but have not had any issues.

 

[B3A5T]

View attachment 2930272New, OEM, “yellow band” is the only way to go.

After an insurance claim, I spent two years (2 sets) on aftermarket CVs with nothing but clicking and popping and eventual total failure of the driver’s side.

Got 2 new OEM CVs from @OGBeno along with new OE replacement parts for everything the indie shop would touch while replacing the D/S and, almost 2 years later, everything is still perfect.

Do it right the first time is a saying for a reason.

I reached out @OGBeno , hopefully he responds and it’s an “affordable “ solution, thanks!

 

[B3A5T]

Please do not take this as a recommendation by any means but I am running PDL. My independent yota mechanic whom I really trust swears by them. That is the only option he will install outside of OEM. I have not been running them long but have not had any issues.

Thanks!

Is your truck lifted? If so do you have a diff drop? Asking bc I’ve been warned about the angles.
I too trust my inde but I’m concerned that there’s zero info regarding PDL on line. How many miles and type of driving are you doing?
Cheers

 

[CALIFORNIAGOLD]

No lift and no plans for one. If I had a lift or was planning on it then I would probably have leaned towards staying OEM followed by the diff drop when doing the lift. I do a lot of highway and light trail driving. I felt the same way about PDL and still do as like you said there is nothing out there on them. I only have about 7,000 miles on them so far.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Post #170 on this thread (found other threads too which spiked my concern).
Be nice to hear more that the yellow band are the way to go tho for the price.

Another CV Axle Discussion Thread

🤔 New OEM axles have yellow bands/clamps on the outer boot. Like this? ;) I can take off the snap ring and take a pic if you really want confirmation :)

forum.ih8mud.com

I

You misread that thread. The yellow bands are NOT remans. The yellow bands are NEW axles.

A reman option CV axle is available from Toyota, which has been determined to be a reboxed aftermarket axle that is a piece of $hit. Don’t buy reman or aftermarket. Do buy new OEM with yellow bands.

 

[abuck99]

PDL is probably repackaged Cardone axles. To which the flanges don’t fit very well- they have to be forced on.

Spend the money, buy the OEM axles, new snap rings, Toyota seals, new flanges, grease caps and related hardware. Learn how to do the work your self, and be thorough.

As the knuckles will be off, you’ll want to inspect the ball joints and boots for damage, the back side knuckle seal for damage- they usually are and need replaced ( shop will ignore and you’ll get water intrusion and ruin your new grease and bearings), clean and re-grease spindle bearing( shop won’t bother) clean out old grease from hub(most shops don’t bother) and clean & repack wheel bearings (or replace if scored). Measure gap and replace outer snap ring (many shops reuse and they fall off- which can ruin your day, the axle and seals) locking tab washer and claw washer gets replaced( many shops often reuse/ which can ruin your spindle when the reused lock washer fails, adjusting nuts loosen and hub walks off) Bearings are seldom set up right which requires a little more time to properly set preload (usually loose which ruins hardware and axle stub) Yes- all this oversight is quite common.

All the related service to replacing axles is quite detailed and often gets breezed over, buttoned back up and sent on its way. And you pay a lot of labor to get that crap work only to experience a premature component failure.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

PDL is probably repackaged Cardone axles. To which the flanges don’t fit very well- they have to be forced on.

Spend the money, buy the OEM axles, new snap rings, Toyota seals, new flanges, grease caps and related hardware. Learn how to do the work your self, and be thorough.

As the knuckles will be off, you’ll want to inspect the ball joints and boots for damage, the back side knuckle seal for damage- they usually are and need replaced ( shop will ignore and you’ll get water intrusion and ruin your new grease and bearings), clean and re-grease spindle bearing( shop won’t bother) clean out old grease from hub(most shops don’t bother) and clean & repack wheel bearings (or replace if scored). Measure gap and replace outer snap ring (many shops reuse and they fall off- which can ruin your day, the axle and seals) locking tab washer and claw washer gets replaced( many shops often reuse/ which can ruin your spindle when the reused lock washer fails, adjusting nuts loosen and hub walks off) Bearings are seldom set up right which requires a little more time to properly set preload (usually loose which ruins hardware and axle stub) Yes- all this oversight is quite common.

All the related service to replacing axles is quite detailed and often gets breezed over, buttoned back up and sent on its way. And you pay a lot of labor to get that crap work only to experience a premature component failure.

 

[B3A5T]

View attachment 2931330

 

[OwnerCS]

I did a side-by-side comparison between OEM and an axle made by W0hn industries in China. W0hn supplies many of the aftermarket brands. There are subtle differences.

In the 2nd picture the splines on an OEM have a slightly different cut.

An observation that I've had with both OEM axles is the groove cut for the snap ring is a precision fit for the "D" size snap ring. I verified the snap ring width with the new axles before installation.

OEM on the right in this picture.

OEM on the right.

OEM on the right.

With a new OEM flange, CV axle, and D size snap ring everything came out as a perfect fit.

The spline cut on this aftermarket doesn't have the same precision feel as OEM. It feels like it needs to be forced on.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I did a side-by-side comparison between OEM and an axle made by W0hn industries in China. W0hn supplies many of the aftermarket brands. There are subtle differences.

In the 2nd picture the splines on an OEM have a slightly different cut.

An observation that I've had with both OEM axles is the groove cut for the snap ring is a precision fit for the "D" size snap ring. I verified the snap ring width with the new axles before installation.

OEM on the right in this picture.

View attachment 2931339

OEM on the right.

View attachment 2931341

OEM on the right.

View attachment 2931349

With a new OEM flange, CV axle, and D size snap ring everything came out as a perfect fit.

View attachment 2931368


The spline cut on this aftermarket doesn't have the same precision feel as OEM. It feels like it needs to be forced on.

View attachment 2931360

I noticed the same when comparing a Cardone and OEM outboard shaft. I think Toyota truly cuts the splines in their axle shafts whereas the manufacturers of aftermarket axles use cold-form rolling to make the splines. Cutting actually removes material whereas rolling just displaces the material.

CAVEAT: I’m not a mech engineer, so my above conclusions may be wrong.

 

[OwnerCS]

I noticed the same when comparing a Cardone and OEM outboard shaft. I think Toyota truly cuts the splines in their axle shafts whereas the manufacturers of aftermarket axles use cold-form rolling to make the splines. Cutting actually removes material whereas rolling just displaces the material.

CAVEAT: I’m not a mech engineer, so my above conclusions may be wrong.

I concur. There is something different about the way these OEM parts all fit together. It's like putting together a fine instrument.

 

[B3A5T]

Clearly they ARE different. Horrible idea to try and force splines. That’s so much worse than boots ripping prematurely.
Found a couple of Toyota dealerships selling them in the mid $400s. Not a bad deal if they last 100k or more at all.
I wish I was able to do my own work but I do not have the skills, tools and honestly the inclination. I know that my inde will be ok if I supply the parts (because they quoted me around $800 each for oem from their distributor) BUT they will not guarantee the part anymore once installed since they didn’t supply it.

As a side note, the inde rep (who drives a LC) told me over the phone that the PDL brand was not Carid junk. That he would have no trepidations installing it on his truck. For what’s worth… I know.

Thank you all for clearing it up (for me) that the yellow bands are not junk.
Monday I need to reach out to the inde (who is not able to take the job till mid March) and approach him about me supplying the CVs and the other work recommended by you guys.
Cheers !

 

[suprarx7nut]

I think you have your answer, but I'll pile on anyways.

New genuine OEM or bust. We have not seen any aftermarket option that competes.

If you are DIYing this in your driveway and have plenty of time to redo it in the future and pinching pennies (why you'd own a 100 series while pinching pennies is beyond me) then perhaps the cheap stuff makes sense.

If you are paying for someone else's labor I don't think there's an objective justification for the inferiority of the aftermarket or reman units. The cost savings gets eaten up quickly if you ever have to replace it again - even with the "lifetime warranties." The genuine Toyota units last multiple hundreds of thousands of miles. The aftermarket CVs are lucky to last 50k. Many fail well before that.