CV axels a “new” option? (1 Viewer)

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FWIW. Don't be surprised if you get OEM without yellow bands (clamps).

Yellow bands just refer to outboard CV boot clamps used, on new OEM front drive shafts assembly. In 2021 I starter seeing some outboard CV boots, with silver clamps. Likely supply line issues.
 
FWIW. Don't be surprised if you get OEM without yellow bands (clamps).

Yellow bands just refer to outboard CV boot clamps used, on new OEM front drive shafts assembly. In 2021 I starter seeing some outboard CV boots, with silver clamps. Likely supply line issues.
Ah! That’s great info bc I would def be concerned if what I order comes in w any other clamp.

Talking about clamps, leave the oem rt? Many years ago I bought boots and aftermarket clamps (from someone here @MUD) bc the claim was they wouldn’t pinch and tear the new boot.
BUT I would imagine I shouldn’t mess w the new OEM.
Correct?
 
I think you have your answer, but I'll pile on anyways.

New genuine OEM or bust. We have not seen any aftermarket option that competes.

If you are DIYing this in your driveway and have plenty of time to redo it in the future and pinching pennies (why you'd own a 100 series while pinching pennies is beyond me) then perhaps the cheap stuff makes sense.

If you are paying for someone else's labor I don't think there's an objective justification for the inferiority of the aftermarket or reman units. The cost savings gets eaten up quickly if you ever have to replace it again - even with the "lifetime warranties." The genuine Toyota units last multiple hundreds of thousands of miles. The aftermarket CVs are lucky to last 50k. Many fail well before that.
Not a DIY and no, not trying to pinch pennies, those were the only options that either the Toyota dealership or my inde offered.
Of course if either would have said: we are using OEM to fix your car I would have said ok and never asked about the remanufactured from Yota or that other brand.
So yeah, I’m going to approach both w the proposition that I buy the oems and then see their response.
I think you are 100% correct. I don’t want to own that I consider a very well built reliable vehicle to then make it sub par bc I wanted to save $600 or so.
 
I keep OEM clamps on. But watch the inner CV small boot clamp for weep. If they later weep from under boot at clamp, which they do sometimes, within 10K to 30K miles. I replace with NAPA small CV clamps.

Note: I pick-up FDS (CVs), locally at Toyota Dealership. I find 10 out of 10, if I have shipped to me. Have bent dust shields! Dust shield can be straighten, but PITA.

I looked at a set of Toyota FDS ***-*** -84 (-84 on any Toy parts = re-manufactured), at Dealership last week. I was very disappointing. They did not use OEM boots, area/axle race knuckle seal rides on was painted, snap ring groove slightly rounded. Worst of all, outer CV axle splines were ~30% or more worn away.


IMG_5783.JPEG
 
I keep OEM clamps on. But watch the inner CV small boot clamp for weep. If they later weep from under boot at clamp, which they do sometimes, within 10K to 30K miles. I replace with NAPA small CV clamps.

Note: I pick-up FDS (CVs), locally at Toyota Dealership. I find 10 out of 10, if I have shipped to me. Have bent dust shields! Dust shield can be straighten, but PITA.

I looked at a set of Toyota FDS ***-*** -84 (-84 on any Toy parts = re-manufactured), at Dealership last week. I was very disappointing. They did not use OEM boots, area/axle race knuckle seal rides on was painted, snap ring groove slightly rounded. Worst of all, outer CV axle splines were ~30% or more worn away.


View attachment 2931527
WOW - Those splines look terrible.
 
You know, what’s hard is that all I hear from shops here and even Toyota is that my LC is an old truck, that it’s ok to go sub par. The mentality is that soon I’ll be tossing her off and buy a newer vehicle.
I try and explain that she is not my daily, that she’s a keeper and I use her on the weekends to go to the lake or mountain bike in the Ozarks and that’s she’s the one that takes the family on skiing trips (600plus miles each way into the Rockies or Sangre de CRISTO range).
Nevertheless I get the same: old car equals no real point in investing in it.
I’ve had horrible experiences w the local shops, so when I order my OEM parts I’ve decided to mark them just to be sure they’ve installed them and not just switch them w other cheap parts and kept the own to themselves to sell or use in their own trucks.
Yep that’s how bad it is here…
 
You know, what’s hard is that all I hear from shops here and even Toyota is that my LC is an old truck, that it’s ok to go sub par. The mentality is that soon I’ll be tossing her off and buy a newer vehicle.
I try and explain that she is not my daily, that she’s a keeper and I use her on the weekends to go to the lake or mountain bike in the Ozarks and that’s she’s the one that takes the family on skiing trips (600plus miles each way into the Rockies or Sangre de CRISTO range).
Nevertheless I get the same: old car equals no real point in investing in it.
I’ve had horrible experiences w the local shops, so when I order my OEM parts I’ve decided to mark them just to be sure they’ve installed them and not just switch them w other cheap parts and kept the own to themselves to sell or use in their own trucks.
Yep that’s how bad it is here…

Are you active in the North Texas TLCA? There are usually shops that specialize in Cruisers recommended by TCLA chapters. I've seen references in the DFW Land Cruisers Facebook group to cruiser specialists.

For example, in Little Rock we have two cruiser specialists.


The owners are big on 40, 60, 80, and 100 series.


Then in West Plains Mo. we have a very well-known Cruiser specialist.

 
Are you active in the North Texas TLCA? There are usually shops that specialize in Cruisers recommended by TCLA chapters. I've seen references in the DFW Land Cruisers Facebook group to cruiser specialists.

For example, in Little Rock we have two cruiser specialists.


The owners are big on 40, 60, 80, and 100 series.


Then in West Plains Mo. we have a very well-known Cruiser specialist.

I live in Dallas but have a house in Fayetteville AR, that’s where I keep her.

It may be an option to take her to Little Rock just be sure it’s done correctly (Thanks!)
Although now that I have that “new” thunk not sure I would risk the drive.
I’ll reach out to them Monday regardless. Like I stated before my inde (only place I trust in Fay) is swamped till mid March anyway.
 
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I live in Dallas but have a house in Fayetteville AR, that’s where I keep her.

It may be an option to take her to Little Rock just be sure it’s done correctly (Thanks!)
Although now that I have that “new” thunk not sure I would risk the drive.
I’ll reach out to them Monday regardless. Like I stated before my inde (only place I trust in Fay) is swamped till mid May anyway.

Note: Jason at Ozark Overland in West Plains has been on a trip to Death Valley. He should be back sometime next week.
 
I keep OEM clamps on. But watch the inner CV small boot clamp for weep. If they later weep from under boot at clamp, which they do sometimes, within 10K to 30K miles. I replace with NAPA small CV clamps.

Note: I pick-up FDS (CVs), locally at Toyota Dealership. I find 10 out of 10, if I have shipped to me. Have bent dust shields! Dust shield can be straighten, but PITA.

I looked at a set of Toyota FDS ***-*** -84 (-84 on any Toy parts = re-manufactured), at Dealership last week. I was very disappointing. They did not use OEM boots, area/axle race knuckle seal rides on was painted, snap ring groove slightly rounded. Worst of all, outer CV axle splines were ~30% or more worn away.


View attachment 2931527
I was hopeful. So disappointing Toyota's not doing these with stick controls. . :frown:
I think we figured out in a separate thread dedicated to the remans that Toyota is not actually rebuilding or remanufacturing those. They’re being rebooted by some other company and put in a Toyota box.
 
Note: I pick-up FDS (CVs), locally at Toyota Dealership. I find 10 out of 10, if I have shipped to me. Have bent dust shields! Dust shield can be straighten, but PITA.

Paul, I had already ordered my FDS online when I read that you only pick up at the dealer. My order hadn't shipped yet, but since I also had a bent dust shield on my last axle, I called them up and asked if they would put some extra packing in there and sure enough it came pristine with no damage! Might be worth a call to the online dealer to see if they will do that before you order from them.
 
I would highly recommend doing it yourself as it truly is not a technically difficult job. I would say the only two specialized things you need would be snap ring pliers and Youtube skills. Seriously.

OTRAMM has a great Youtube page and has a video going to over how to do it. At least watch the video first. It took me about 2.5-3 hours with every having done it before.
 
I would highly recommend doing it yourself as it truly is not a technically difficult job. I would say the only two specialized things you need would be snap ring pliers and Youtube skills. Seriously.

OTRAMM has a great Youtube page and has a video going to over how to do it. At least watch the video first. It took me about 2.5-3 hours with every having done it before.

And 2.5 hours of this was spent getting the new snap ring to lock into the diff 😂

But yeah it’s really not hard at all. The other “hard” part is replacing the diff oil seal if you choose to do that. Which you should probably do
 
Paul, I had already ordered my FDS online when I read that you only pick up at the dealer. My order hadn't shipped yet, but since I also had a bent dust shield on my last axle, I called them up and asked if they would put some extra packing in there and sure enough it came pristine with no damage! Might be worth a call to the online dealer to see if they will do that before you order from them.
Someone in mud, did get on McGeorge for their bent dust shield, once years ago. For the following year or so after, the did repack. But overtime that ended and back to receiving bent.

But today with core charges and higher shipping cost. (~double). Buying online and having shipped, just isn't worth it for me.
 
Are Toyota Reman CV Axles for recommended? I discovered CamelBack had Part No. 43430-60040-84 for 100 Series. However, dealer by me said 2 week wait.
(CamelBack does not ship this part - due to customer's complaining about damages incurred during shipping.) Henceforth, figure I'll buy and pick it up locally. Any advice appreciated. The remanufactered CV Axles are like 1/5 the price of new.
 
Are Toyota Reman CV Axles for recommended? I discovered CamelBack had Part No. 43430-60040-84 for 100 Series. However, dealer by me said 2 week wait.
(CamelBack does not ship this part - due to customer's complaining about damages incurred during shipping.) Henceforth, figure I'll buy and pick it up locally. Any advice appreciated. The remanufactered CV Axles are like 1/5 the price of new.
Absolutely not. The remanufactured we've seen here are garbage. They are 1/5th the price for a good reason. They're not worth the cost of shipping. Do not buy them unless you know how to properly inspect the splines and grooves and only if you can inspect before accepting them. Even then... probably not worth your (or anyone's) time. I'm thoroughly disappointed in Toyota/Lexus for allowing them to be offered as we've seen from members sharing their purchases here. Junkyard garbage.
 
Would be better off getting some HD from Napa where you have a store warranty. Most of the budget CV axles made in China all come from Wohn Industries which offers CV axles built to specific quality and price points. Just search on Wohn CV axles and you'll start to see the picture. People buy that level of quality to put on a vehicle they are planning to sell or trade.


 
Are Toyota Reman CV Axles for recommended? I discovered CamelBack had Part No. 43430-60040-84 for 100 Series. However, dealer by me said 2 week wait.
(CamelBack does not ship this part - due to customer's complaining about damages incurred during shipping.) Henceforth, figure I'll buy and pick it up locally. Any advice appreciated. The remanufactered CV Axles are like 1/5 the price of new.
They’re dog$hit.
 

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