Custom Yakima rack (1 Viewer)

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Jan 26, 2017
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Chattanooga, Tn
I have a lot of crossbars laying around. My current mounts are from multiple different Yakima mounts. Designed some gutter mounts that will accept Yakima bars. These mounts will have a set screw allowing the bars to slide from one side to another if needing more bar on one side. I have cut 2 48" bars in half and will use those for cross supports. The brackets for the cross supports will be modular so I can move them easily for different setups. I'll post some more pics this evening, but here's a teaser of the gutter bracket. My buddy drew it up for me and waiting them to be cut and broke.

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Not following what you are trying to do. Why not use factory towers?
 
So, these are crude cut, but you get the idea. Bottom plate is tapped. 3/16 plate steel. With these brackets you can adjust the cross bars on the main bars wherever you need them. I will have 4 58" bars with a grid of 40" and 24" bars in between. Will make more sense as I move along
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4 fixed bars with gutter mounts that were in first post. All bars with triangles are module. Limit to customization is the amount of bars you have. Been keeping an eye out on Craigslist for cheap bars. My buddy is getting the triangle brackets drawn up now. Hopefully will have everything cut and powder coated by next week depending on their shop load.

 
4 fixed bars with gutter mounts that were in first post. All bars with triangles are module. Limit to customization is the amount of bars you have. Been keeping an eye out on Craigslist for cheap bars. My buddy is getting the triangle brackets drawn up now. Hopefully will have everything cut and powder coated by next week depending on their shop load.


I've been looking at doing something like this myself for cost and adaptability reasons. I'de be interested in a set as a kit if you get that far down the road.
 
Too tall. This will be a half inch off the roof. Using extra bars for a platform on top. I'm bored
You may find that you have difficulty when attaching things to your custom low profile roof rack. You're not going to have much, if any access to hardware on the bottomside of the rack. I have done some serious mods to my Yakima rack system on my 80 series. Currently running a CVT RTT and a Alu-Cab Shadow Awn. Here's latest pic I have with all mods visable. Poor pic, but shows front extension, RTT & awning:
IMG_1420.JPG

More detailed pics can be provided if you want.
 
You may find that you have difficulty when attaching things to your custom low profile roof rack. You're not going to have much, if any access to hardware on the bottomside of the rack. I have done some serious mods to my Yakima rack system on my 80 series. Currently running a CVT RTT and a Alu-Cab Shadow Awn. Here's latest pic I have with all mods visable. Poor pic, but shows front extension, RTT & awning:
View attachment 1571394
More detailed pics can be provided if you want.
Thanks, I don't have any hardware on the bottom of my rack. Bike racks, snowboard rack and farring are all top/side mount. The cross members are for throwing gear up there and strapping down with cargo net
 
If you're cutting up cross tubes to custom lengths, did you consider 3/4" steel "black pipe" from a local hardware or big box store? OD is pretty similar to Yakima's cross tubes. ‏مجموعات Google
 
I have 6 bars already. Cut 2 up. Od of Yakima bars is 1 1/8 the 1inch bar may work od is 1.12. Yakima puts that vinyl coating on the bars. If you weren't using the cross bars for anything Yakima, just as supports it would work well.
 
Got the brackets and triangles back. Picked up some hardware and mocked up a few of the mounts. The triangles work great. Very strong, I stood on the cross bars without any movement. Tomorrow I'm going to tack up the collar clamps to the bracket mounts. Still need to drill to counter sink all the hardware.

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Ended up cutting the top part of the bracket and using the collar clamps as the top piece. Worked out great. Had to bend the clips up to stay out of the way of the doors, haven't decided on a permanent solution for this. Still need to paint. Will probably do that this weekend. Very happy with the outcome. Here's a few pictures

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Update & outside pics please?

Did you ever resolve the latch handle to door contact?
I'm trying to find some type of budget latch myself. I can't pay $150 for traditional type latches.
My L bracket will be 4.25" tall looking to fit something in there.
Will you get a total height measurement for me?
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Pictured is a E313 from RV Design
 
bent mine on the front 3 latches to clear the doors. May cut them later, but not that board yet. i'll get you the height when i get home tonight. the measurement you are looking for below is 4", but the mount on top of the latch adds length. it also depends on how far out you unscrew the clip that will go to the rain gutter. you have some level of adjustment on height within that screw. I would say total length is no more than 4.5". i'll get some pics too
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Ended up cutting the top part of the bracket and using the collar clamps as the top piece. Worked out great. Had to bend the clips up to stay out of the way of the doors, haven't decided on a permanent solution for this........
How is this working out for you? What kind of weight are you carrying on your rack? I missed looking at your posts back in December. While it looks & appears to be solid for static weight, what concerns me is the lateral <> stresses that it will be exposed to with vehicle movement. There is little if any gusset type support that I can see in your collar to "triangle" bracket joints. The brackets being relatively short is a good thing - less leverage. I'd keep a sharp lookout on your welds and that area to be sure you're not getting any stress fractures. The natural flex of the brackets is a good thing, but it might work against you at the collar/bracket joint without gusset reinforcement. But otherwise, it looks like a very creative, light weight mod to the original Yakima design.
 

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