Current FJ60 Tow Hitch Options (1 Viewer)

[Gretsch]

All. Recently picked up 84 FJ60. Want to take it on a trip to Colorado this Summer. I have a small camping trailer I use for my gear, prolly 600 pounds total weight loaded. Trying to find a tow hitch setup for this thing. I saw mention of a U-Haul hitch part number 75025 which I think is made by draw-tite for these. Are there other options available these days for these trucks? Would like something with a 2-inch square setup for height adjustment flexibility. My 60 is all stock so has the rear bumper. Maybe there is a bolt on part for this bumper than would handle this, something like this. I am not sure what this bumper is rated so not sure this is a possibility for these trucks.

Also if anyone has any advice on a plug in wiring harness that works with these trucks, I would appreciate hearing about it. Not like the splice in alligator clip type, but one that T's into the factory plugs would be great. But will take what I can get. I am an admitted noob with these cruisers (5 day owner as of this writing) so thanks in advance for any help here.

 

[psulick3]

There are several threads that discuss this topic. I have the Hidden Hitch 87614 on my '84 60 and it fits great. You will have to drill two holes in the frame but it's the closest you can probably find without going custom. I got mine on Amazon but it looks like it's not longer available there. I can't help on wiring as I only use mine for my bike rack.

 

[Elbert]

look for a used one, I don't think there are any "new" items on the market

 

[FARMAN33]

@Robert Franzke I found myself in your position earlier this year. Looked (scoured) the classifieds and u-haul and all corners to no effect. Broke out my welder and with $40 in steel went to work. I wanted mine like you described (tucked in and inconspicuous) with original bumper. It wasn't really that hard to do.

On a side note a couple of us Houston guys are headed to CO at the end of summer too.

 

[merlet]

I was in the same position than you earlier this year and the only new one option is the one from MAF BTB Products FJ60/62 2 Inch Receiver Hitch. but with the shipping it is going to be in the $500. My solution was to scout all the fj60/62 parting out ads here on mud's classified (see Parting Out...).
After a month Mel Lowe @mel lowe was parting out a fj62 and he had a rusty draw-tite tow hitch for which he gave me a good price (including shipping). I removed the rust and spray painted inside-out and it is like new. You could try to contact him. As indicated above, with the draw-tite you will just have to drill 2 extras holes.

 

[Living in the Past]

Can't add on the hitch, installed one I bought on back in 1993. I did finally get around to rewiring my four pin plug with one that has it's own fuse. Still have plans on how to redo where it's tapped into the factory wiring but the trailer's lights and wiring are isolated from the vehicle's wiring now.

 

[Rusto]

Check out this thread - Who still makes a 2" receiver hitch?
It has quite a bit of information, plus links to other threads with even more information.

Using that thread, I found one from Uhaul that works, although it's not a perfect fit. Plus, there's information in one of the linked threads about t-ing into the right rear taillight with a pigtail that is a modified one made for 80s Toyota Pickups.

where there is a will, there is a way.

 

[Gretsch]

Does anyone know what type of tail light wiring system the FJ60 has? Is it two wire (Combined stop and turn signal with an independent tail signal), or three wire (Independent stop, turn and tail turn signals)? I am getting a trailer wiring module to wire up the trailer and am told this module is needed because the FJ60 uses a three wires system, but wanted to confirm with the experts. Thanks in advance.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Typically all Japanese vehicles have independent turn signals as is required by law in Japan, Europe, etc. They're always Amber. In the U.S. and places with lax laws the Stop function can also function as Turn. So to answer your question 60s have Tail, Stop, and Turn plus the ground so 4 wires.

 

[Gretsch]

OK thanks. I have a converter I am going to try to get this truck ready for towing. Thanks again.

 

[Gretsch]

So I was able to get this going and wired up. Got everything wired up and it amazingly worked on the first try. I thought it might be helpful to include what each wire does in the factory taillight plug so others will know where to splice if they wanted to set up their 60 for towing as well. I made a crude diagram of what wires do what. This is looking at the harness on the truck side with the taillight assembly unplugged and the locking tab up. The ground wire is a white wire. Find that to make sure this diagram is in the correct orientation to what you are physically looking at when finding wires. My 60 is an 84. I have no idea if this was changed around between model years. Both taillights on mine use the same pinout for both sides. I just needed one side to make this work however. Hope this helps someone else down the road.

Here is a link to the wiring adapter I used to make this work:

Amazon.com: CURT 59236 Multi-Function Taillight Converter Kit: Automotive

Its a powered adapter that converts from 3-wire to 2-wire systems. It gets power from the vehicle battery so it does not require the power from the lights themselves to drive the trailer lights. The pictures on Amazon don't show everything you get. There is a little converter box as well as what the pictures show. Anyway hope this helps someone get this done fast.

 

[Gretsch]

Shot of the finished product. I used a 4-way to 7-way adapter as my trailer has a 7-way plug. This plug can do both 4-way and 7-way wiring and includes a built in LED tester. Link to it:

Amazon.com: CURT 57674 4-Way Flat Dual-Output Electrical Adapter with Tester: Automotive

Hitch is a class-1 but it works for my needs as my trailer is quite light.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Shot of the finished product. I used a 4-way to 7-way adapter as my trailer has a 7-way plug. This plug can do both 4-way and 7-way wiring and includes a built in LED tester. Link to it:

Amazon.com: CURT 57674 4-Way Flat Dual-Output Electrical Adapter with Tester: Automotive

Hitch is a class-1 but it works for my needs as my trailer is quite light.

View attachment 1499231

Clean install. Nice job. The powered convertor is a good call as it takes the extra load off the 30+ year old wiring.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Double post.

 

[yarrie303]

Hi,

@Robert Franzke Thanks for posting a diagram of the connector.

I also have a question regarding wiring up for a trailer connector. The previous owner had a 4 way trailer wiring harness spliced into the wiring harness going along the underside of the truck in the back in between the spare tire and the body.

I used this harness a couple times, and the trailer lights worked. Left, Right, Stop. However, I don't ever remember using the trailer with the headlights/taillights on in the truck.

Recently, I just upgraded my trailer hitch, and decided to upgrade the harness too, I figured I would just get a replacement 4 pin harness (Curt and re 58405, drilled into the bumper, Amazon.com: CURT 58405 4-Way Flat License Plate Light Plug Connector Socket: Automotive) and wire it to where the previous owner had done the same.

I hadn't read up on this whole 3 wire v. 2 @Prairie Swamp wire difference, so I wired it up the same the previous owner had wired:


ON Wiring Harness: ON LandCruiser:
-Yellow (left turn) -Red Wire - going into the drives side taillight - I assume this is connected to the Green/Blue Wire
-Green (right turn) -Green/Yellow Wire
-Brown (light) - Red/Green Wire
-White (ground) -Ground



And, this setup system works, until I turn on the lights and turn on the turn signal. When I do that all of the lights on the trailer blink!

Is that why I need a 3-2 wiring converter? Again, the PO had this exact setup, and I used it before on the old harness, but I don't remember if I used it with the lights on?


@Robert Franzke any particular reason why you picked the Curt 59236? I have had success with other Curt products, and they seem to have cheaper versions of this, but wanted to know if there was a reason why you went with the model you did?

Again, let me know if I absolutely need a 3-2 to run this properly, I am assuming so, and I always want to take the extra step to do things correctly, I was just wondering if the PO just used the trailer during the daylight, and thus didn't worry about no turn signals when the headlights were on?

Or did i somehow introduce something else into the system? The only wire that actually is different is the ground location, but I would assume since this system partially works, the ground is not the difference.

***Edit, my neighbor helped me look at the lights when I was in the truck:

-No Trailer Brake Lights
-I had trailer turn signals when the truck running lights were off
-I had trailer running lights when the truck running lights were on
-When truck running lights on, and I turn the turn signal on, all of the lights on the trailer blinked!?



Thanks!
Mark

 

[Gretsch]

Hi,

@Robert Franzke Thanks for posting a diagram of the connector.

I also have a question regarding wiring up for a trailer connector. The previous owner had a 4 way trailer wiring harness spliced into the wiring harness going along the underside of the truck in the back in between the spare tire and the body.

I used this harness a couple times, and the trailer lights worked. Left, Right, Stop. However, I don't ever remember using the trailer with the headlights/taillights on in the truck.

Recently, I just upgraded my trailer hitch, and decided to upgrade the harness too, I figured I would just get a replacement 4 pin harness (Curt and re 58405, drilled into the bumper, Amazon.com: CURT 58405 4-Way Flat License Plate Light Plug Connector Socket: Automotive) and wire it to where the previous owner had done the same.

I hadn't read up on this whole 3 wire v. 2 @Prairie Swamp wire difference, so I wired it up the same the previous owner had wired:


ON Wiring Harness: ON LandCruiser:
-Yellow (left turn) -Red Wire - going into the drives side taillight - I assume this is connected to the Green/Blue Wire
-Green (right turn) -Green/Yellow Wire
-Brown (light) - Red/Green Wire
-White (ground) -Ground



And, this setup system works, until I turn on the lights and turn on the turn signal. When I do that all of the lights on the trailer blink!

Is that why I need a 3-2 wiring converter? Again, the PO had this exact setup, and I used it before on the old harness, but I don't remember if I used it with the lights on?


@Robert Franzke any particular reason why you picked the Curt 59236? I have had success with other Curt products, and they seem to have cheaper versions of this, but wanted to know if there was a reason why you went with the model you did?

Again, let me know if I absolutely need a 3-2 to run this properly, I am assuming so, and I always want to take the extra step to do things correctly, I was just wondering if the PO just used the trailer during the daylight, and thus didn't worry about no turn signals when the headlights were on?

Or did i somehow introduce something else into the system? The only wire that actually is different is the ground location, but I would assume since this system partially works, the ground is not the difference.

***Edit, my neighbor helped me look at the lights when I was in the truck:

-No Trailer Brake Lights
-I had trailer turn signals when the truck running lights were off
-I had trailer running lights when the truck running lights were on
-When truck running lights on, and I turn the turn signal on, all of the lights on the trailer blinked!?



Thanks!
Mark

The only reason I picked the Curt 59236 was because it was powered and did not rely on power from the cruiser lights themselves. I imagine there might have been cheaper options available. Curt has one that looks identical but its not powered and half the cost. The only difference I see in the powered versus unpowered is that the powered one has a lead that goes straight to the battery. Otherwise the cruiser has to power its own lights and the trailer's. I did not think 30 year old wiring was up to the task of powering both so I went with the more expensive powered version. I also went with Curt specific because I was using a Curt 4-wire to 7-way adapter and just thought I would have a better chance of things working together if I kept it all Curt.

 

[yarrie303]

@Robert Franzke Thanks! So, I am assuming I need a 3-2 converter... I will go with Curt as well.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Gretsch]

If you go with the Curt, the wiring splices if using my diagram would be as follows. Colors from the Curt adapter:

Yellow - go to factory Left Turn lead
Brown - go to factory Tail lead
Red - go to factory Brake lead
Green - Go to factory right turn lead
White - Go to frame ground
Black - Got to vehicle battery positive

You run the green wire (I think it was green) over to the passenger side tail light harness and splice into the Turn wire on that side to get a right turn signal. You then ground the white wire from the curt harness to the frame somewhere, and run the black lead to the front of the truck, add in the included fuse holder, and tie it to the positive lead on the battery. The black lead is plenty long and went the length of the truck which surprised me. I ran everything with split loom for protection. Hopefully that makes sense. The instructions that come with it are easy to follow if you have the Toyota harness diagram I included. Also not sure what sort of trailer you are pulling, but I learned long ago not to rely on trailer frame for grounding. Run the ground leads directly to the trailer lights. Gotten burned too many times chasing bad grounds. HTH.

 

[yarrie303]

@Robert Franzke finally got back to this project. Thanks for your wiring diagram, it made for a quick install & Success on the first try.

Pic of the camper with lights!

Thanks.

 

[Gretsch]

@Robert Franzke finally got back to this project. Thanks for your wiring diagram, it made for a quick install & Success on the first try.

Pic of the camper with lights!

Thanks.

View attachment 1535188

Excellent news. Glad it worked out.

Funny enough since last post, I managed to blow my Curt converter up somehow. Battery was going bad and I needed to get my son off to school so I tried to start it with my battery starter. Ended up toasting the battery and somehow the Curt converter. Trailer lights quit working after that. Called Curt and they replaced it under warranty thankfully. I thought there was something wrong with my splices somewhere but the Curt tech verified it was good so he sent me a new box. Spliced it in and I am back in business. I run a 7-way converter plug on mine and thought maybe that broke the Curt box but replaced the box and its working fine. I blew the inline fuse on the curt box but somehow before it blew the curt box got toasted. I think it was just a combination of trying to start the truck with a bad battery and starter device pumped too much amperage into the hot lead and blew up the curt box in the process. Maybe be mindful of that and remove the fuse before trying to jump/start the truck with a car starting device. Glad it worked for you.

I see you have a root beer 60 as well. Same year as mine. Looking good. Cheers!!