curious about a 350tpi and 700r4 combo (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 15, 2007
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Location
san jose
Hey everyone, I would just like to preface all of this with the fact that my automotive ingenuity isn't all that great.

I have been given a 1992 firebird formula with a 350tpi engine and a 700r4 transmission that have both recently been rebuilt. (transmission has less than 1000 miles on it.)

My 76 fj40 currently has a 76 el camino 350 inside of it, mated to a 4spd manual. (I believe its a tlc transmission with an adapter)

Knowing this, I was wondering what sort of difficulties I would encounter in making this swap. (I actually would like to do some of the work, but will mostly be done by a shop. As a student, funds are somewhat limited.)

The firebird is running, but has suspension problems that forced previous owner to donate to me. Thinking this was a good opportunity to give my rig an upgrade, I want to ask you guys to lemme know what you think.

Any help that you guys can give me would be welcome, and I hope i get a lot.

cheers.:beer:
 
I have the 350TPI and 4L60 set up in my 40. You need to push everything back a little leaving you with a very short rear driveline. If you use 700R a lot of guys have problems with front drive line clearance at the trans pan.

Check your trans unless it was change it should be a 4L60E for '92. The pans are different between the two.

Good luck and welcome to MUD:flipoff2:
 
Your 1976 engine was probably carbureted and did not need a VSS. The 1992 TPI should require a 4 pulse VSS. We have these, #33604 at $124.57, but you also need a 10" long spedo cable as well, #83710 at $39.95. I would leave the engine (front mounts) where they are now, but the 700R4 and Downeys 1" thick adapter will move the T.C. back quite aways. You will have the cost of the above, plus auto shifter, tranny cooler, and modifying drive shafts. We have an instruction sheet that makes the TPI wiring childs play. Good luck bud!!!
 
Thank you guys for some good feedback. I still do have some questions regarding this conversion and mostly are based on cost.

1. What kind of ballpark cost am I looking at to do this conversion?
2. I would like to pull the engine and transmission asap to make room in my garage, are there specific parts that I need to make sure and keep? (The car is a running model, so everything works)
3. I am in the south bay (san jose), does anyone know any good shops that could help me out with this project on the cheap? (like i said earlier, I would love to do as much of the work by myself as possible because its such a good experience to learn about.)
 
Thank you guys for some good feedback. I still do have some questions regarding this conversion and mostly are based on cost.

1. What kind of ballpark cost am I looking at to do this conversion?
2. I would like to pull the engine and transmission asap to make room in my garage, are there specific parts that I need to make sure and keep? (The car is a running model, so everything works)
3. I am in the south bay (san jose), does anyone know any good shops that could help me out with this project on the cheap? (like i said earlier, I would love to do as much of the work by myself as possible because its such a good experience to learn about.)

I will answer these as best as I can (from ly experience).

1. Including Crate engine, Tranny, Orion, adapters, and crossmember, I have spent an easy 10,000.

2. Keep eveerything until complete and have run on the road and trails to be sure. Then sell what you trip over for two season on ebay to try to recoupe some costs.

3. I am from the midwest so I can't help you there. Good Luck.
 
In regards to price, I was asking the ballpark figure without the engine and transmission, because I already have both that are working.

Will I need to get new axles to be able to drive this? or will it be possible to drive with the stock axles on there now?
 
In regards to price, I was asking the ballpark figure without the engine and transmission, because I already have both that are working.

Will I need to get new axles to be able to drive this? or will it be possible to drive with the stock axles on there now?

I would think not. Yota axles have the reputation as being far stronger than any stock jeep axle. I am using stock 72 axles. I have bought upgraded axle shafts to replace the stockers if they were ever to break. Part of my trail tool box.

Good Luck.
 
You've got most of the swap handled in terms of large priced items. Now you are into the nickle/dime issues that will get you. I'm in the middle of this with my TBI swap...it will be back in the rig this weekend!

Things you may or may not need...but are good to replace during a swap. You don't want to do that 800 miles from now becuase they rotted/broke/wore

high pressure fuel pump (either in tank or inline) $100+
fuel filters $10
new fuel lines, EFI rated $15-????
radiator (new or rodded out) $$75-$200 alum
radiator hoses/clamps (might as well) $40
distributor cap/rotor $40-80
spark plugs $15
any seals/gaskets on the engine that may be leaking (valve covers, rear main, freeze plugs) $50-$100
new vacuum hoses $5
driveshaft lenthening/shortening $200-$400
skid plate/tranny/t-case mount $depends if you can do it?
auto shifter setups $depends if you can do it?
t-case shifter setup/mods $depends if you can do it?
misc. fluids, filters $100
t-case adapter $400+??

I would guess you are looking at $1700 to $3,500 depending on what you need and how frugal/creative you are. I always figure high...because it usually costs double my high figures ;p
 
I have the 350TPI and 4L60 set up in my 40. You need to push everything back a little leaving you with a very short rear driveline. If you use 700R a lot of guys have problems with front drive line clearance at the trans pan.

Check your trans unless it was change it should be a 4L60E for '92. The pans are different between the two.

Good luck and welcome to MUD:flipoff2:

This is true. If you make a custom pan and spec a good driveshaft i.e. ...take steel pan and trim for flat angle where CV meets. And use a 1-5/8" slip stub to clear the rest, you'll be good to go. I did not clock my tcase flat. Left it in stock position and built a belly pan to accomidate.

My drivetrain is close to what you wanna run. I didnt wanna run a seperate/piggy back ECM for the 4L60. I run dual slim line elec fans on a custom shroud we made. Like any other electric device we tripple dipped the boards in epoxy for water and vibration protection. ....... I'm still up a creek if the rig flops in the water or I deep 6 it and the ECM gets soaked.
 
This is true. If you make a custom pan and spec a good driveshaft i.e. ...take steel pan and trim for flat angle where CV meets. And use a 1-5/8" slip stub to clear the rest, you'll be good to go. I did not clock my tcase flat. Left it in stock position and built a belly pan to accomidate.

My drivetrain is close to what you wanna run. I didnt wanna run a seperate/piggy back ECM for the 4L60. I run dual slim line elec fans on a custom shroud we made. Like any other electric device we tripple dipped the boards in epoxy for water and vibration protection. ....... I'm still up a creek if the rig flops in the water or I deep 6 it and the ECM gets soaked.

You dont need a seperate ecm for the 4L60 only the 4L60E. The 4L60 is the same as the 700R but with a update case/pan.
 
You dont need a seperate ecm for the 4L60 only the 4L60E. The 4L60 is the same as the 700R but with a update case/pan.

Yeah, my fault. 4L60E was what was attached to the 5.3L driveline we had. Guessing "E" is the electronic control designation. .... so what years was the 4L60 avail?
 
Yeah, my fault. 4L60E was what was attached to the 5.3L driveline we had. Guessing "E" is the electronic control designation. .... so what years was the 4L60 avail?

'91 for sure only because that is my year:) Its been a long time since I research them but "I think" 91-92 but I could be wrong because I have forgot more then I have learned:eek::D
 
you want to keep all sensors attached to the motor and wiring. unplug the wiring harness at the fire wall and trace all the wires back to find what they go to. and you will have to figure out if you want to keep emmissions or not (smog pump, EGR, charcoal can etc.) do a search on the subject TPI on here it has been talked about with tons of links. go on ebay motors and search TPI it will give you some idea's but dont buy your books on how to from there go to www.amazon.com and save your self some money. and yes you will need the VSS sensor that Downey talks about and brake switch too try these guys www.jagsthatrun.com they have the VSS for 99.00 and there book is very helpfull too. like i say buy the books on how to first and study up before you dive in dont rush into it, its OK to pull the motor and tranny as long as you keep all the goodies and get rid of the car body or part it out to cover cost of things. also check this site out http://www.sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm because you may need to build one (i am) and check out www.chevythunder.com some good info also just go to google and type in TPI or tunned port injection you will be amazed at what you will find out. oh and i almost forgot check out www.painlesswiring.com for a plug and play harness if you want (its what i did, got it off ebay cheap) there are many other makers too like www.howellefi.com . oh and check out http://www.hotrodlane.cc/Instructions/Export1.htm for info and parts and request there DVD set its like 3 hours of how to and what you need and its FREE great people and excellant customer service.

i hope all the links still work. like i said search on here because i posted about 20 links a while back. i have about $1000.00 + or - in mine so far. hope this helps you a little and good luck with it. oh and check out www.tanksinc.com for custom gas tanks (not cheap)
 
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thanks a lot you guys!! im very excited about this project, and am going to take your advice and do a lot more research before I dive into it. I will be pulling the engine and transmission this coming weekend just to make space in the garage. When I begin the swap, I'll definitely post up pics for you guys to see the progress.
 
Your 1976 engine was probably carbureted and did not need a VSS. The 1992 TPI should require a 4 pulse VSS. We have these, #33604 at $124.57, but you also need a 10" long spedo cable as well, #83710 at $39.95. I would leave the engine (front mounts) where they are now, but the 700R4 and Downeys 1" thick adapter will move the T.C. back quite aways. You will have the cost of the above, plus auto shifter, tranny cooler, and modifying drive shafts. We have an instruction sheet that makes the TPI wiring childs play. Good luck bud!!!

hey i was wondering if i could get some info on where to order the instruction sheet for the tpi wiring... i am doing the same swap and i almost have the wireing harness out but i need to know what i can cut and leave and what i need to keep if you could let me know where to purchase all this stuff i would appriciate it. thanx
 
hey i was wondering if i could get some info on where to order the instruction sheet for the tpi wiring... i am doing the same swap and i almost have the wireing harness out but i need to know what i can cut and leave and what i need to keep if you could let me know where to purchase all this stuff i would appriciate it. thanx

Downey Off Road - Downey Off-Road (562) 949 9494 - America's oldest and largest Toyota truck accessory manufacturing company. <--- link
You can also click on Downey's name above and send a personal message.

Welcome to Mud and good luck with your project! :cheers:
 

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